|
Post by dierk on Jun 6, 2016 10:10:13 GMT -5
Can't even trust my fingers to type the words I'm thinking...
|
|
|
Post by kaytermarram on Jun 6, 2016 12:56:16 GMT -5
When I see how accurate you are building this masterpiece (it is one AFTER the bill treatment) and how super detailing you work, I have to say, I miss a complete scratched interior of the ship! Dude, this is a minimum you can do, can´t you? Harhar, just kidding! This will look top notch when once finished. I am extremly curious for the rigging of the ship!
R4qnk
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 6, 2016 13:19:43 GMT -5
When I see how accurate you are building this masterpiece (it is one AFTER the bill treatment) and how super detailing you work, I have to say, I miss a complete scratched interior of the ship! Dude, this is a minimum you can do, can´t you? Harhar, just kidding! This will look top notch when once finished. I am extremly curious for the rigging of the ship! R4qnk Ha, now that would be something...but an interior for the ship would be largely wasted...aside from the one engine access hatch, the decks cover over everything else! The rigging on Olympia reflects her 'transitional' design, she was configured to use what's called a 'schooner rig' as an auxiliary form of propulsion. Even in the 1890s the use of sails was still exerting an influence!
|
|
|
Post by kaytermarram on Jun 6, 2016 13:44:27 GMT -5
Sure, this is why I love interior design, even if you cannot see it: I know, it is there. Yeah, I know, some kind of braindeadnes, but hey, why aren´t we modelbuilders?
Frank
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 6, 2016 20:38:01 GMT -5
One of the long-standing rules of thumb in ship building is to work your way from the bottom up and the inside out...and nowhere is that more true than on the boat deck of the Olympia. The wood deck mostly fit like it was supposed to for the first 2/3 or so of its length but there were some adjustments needed in spots to trim the openings around the aft funnel and the engine hatch in particular. I also had to trim down the rectangular tabs that are meant to serve as attachment points for the hammock frames in order for the wood deck to actually fit since it's designed to go under the hammock frames themselves. Once I had the deck in place, I added the hammock frames and installed their top walkways with liquid glue. After the glue had set, I lightly sanded the join edge so it would be flush with the hull edge. Then the walkway wood decks were added to round things out. The wood deck portions for the main deck areas can't be added until after the deck sections are installed into the hull, so that will be the next task. In hindsight, I do wish I'd waited to secure the boat davits and instead allowed them to hinge in/out as that would've made life so much easier when adding the decks, but that's why it's 20/20!
|
|
|
Post by dierk on Jun 7, 2016 2:18:09 GMT -5
It's a shame clairvoyance is a scam - it'd come in really handy in modelling... Nice progress Bill!
|
|
|
Post by kaytermarram on Jun 7, 2016 10:03:00 GMT -5
I am interested in (of cause!) how you are going to paint or stain the deck! And if you are going to stain it, how will you weather??
Frank
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 7, 2016 10:18:35 GMT -5
No kidding Dierk! That lady Clair Voyance sure needs a lesson in timeliness. I am interested in (of cause!) how you are going to paint or stain the deck! And if you are going to stain it, how will you weather?? Frank No paint or staining required Frank, the deck will stay in the natural wood color you see. It already has the planking cut/burned into the wood veneer, so it's good to go as-is. Ship decks like this weren't stained/varnished as a rule, instead they were regularly 'holystoned' by the crew (Google it and you'll get a nice little trivia/history lesson! ) in order to keep them from being splintery and that, in turn, caused them stay a pale/white color. It was a holdover from the Age of Sail days as it wasn't uncommon for the crew to run around barefoot. Wood decks on warships continued in use right up through WW2, naval traditions are the hardest to die.
|
|
|
Post by mrt51 on Jun 7, 2016 10:31:19 GMT -5
Just got caught up and she looks great!
Terry
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 7, 2016 10:44:00 GMT -5
Thanks Terry, I think I am going to add all the boat deck fittings first before I install the deck into the hull. The more I look at them, the more I think I will need the flexibility to get it all in.
|
|
|
Post by Leon on Jun 7, 2016 10:54:29 GMT -5
Wood deck looks awesome Bill!
|
|
|
Post by kaytermarram on Jun 7, 2016 13:19:09 GMT -5
Aha, seems I have lots to learn about this kind of modeling! I guess, it is cheaper for me to stay at figure modeling of my fave monster stuff because I can argue "Hey, the Muckimus on Altair IV look exactly this way! But I love ship modeling and would like do the 1:200 Bismarck with all the add ons or the Revell 1:72 U-Boats...
Frank
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 8, 2016 23:15:42 GMT -5
Thanks Leon! Aha, seems I have lots to learn about this kind of modeling! I guess, it is cheaper for me to stay at figure modeling of my fave monster stuff because I can argue "Hey, the Muckimus on Altair IV look exactly this way! But I love ship modeling and would like do the 1:200 Bismarck with all the add ons or the Revell 1:72 U-Boats... Frank Ship modeling has its share of leeway too . A 1/200 Bismarck would be neat, it's tempted me on more than one occasion.
|
|
|
Post by kaytermarram on Jun 9, 2016 12:05:36 GMT -5
Yap, but for those gems you need SPACE! Imagine how many figures I can place on the same ground, gulp!
Frank
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 9, 2016 18:50:13 GMT -5
I've been working on the different fixtures for the boat deck level and one of those involves four of the 6-pounder guns. These guns are in 'exposed' mounts on the boat deck, two fore and two aft. The kit recreates these using a combination of brass barrels, white metal breaches, and PE pedestal stands. That, in turn, requires a good bit of time to get them all together between drilling out the white metal and shaping the pedestal PE to the right height and spacing with their octagonal leg arrangements. The guns have to contend with some tight spacing arrangements and the pedestals need adjustment to deal with that on a gun-by-gun basis. The two forward guns are the easier pair in this regard as there's only the one frame support for the bridge deck level above it. The aft guns are a little trickier due to the double supports for the walk-way level that sits over their area. That isn't dealt with until Step 11 in the instructions but I went ahead and cleaned up the platform and supports and assembled it so I could be sure there wouldn't be any interference there. This proved very helpful as the fit is pretty tight and most of the guns disappear in the process. The walkway structure will get a dose of paint and won't be installed for a while just yet, as you can see there's other stuff that has to into the mount holes in that area first. Speaking of the rest of the boat deck fittings, I cleaned up the components called out in Step 6 consisting of the water tank, vent box covers, and the skylights. The skylights got their PE enhancements as well while I was at it. I'm really glad I decided not to install the main deck into the hull, most of the mount holes have had to be slightly adjusted to one degree or another and handling that is much easier with the deck separate vs. installed. Next up will be dealing with the numerous funnels and the boat racks.
|
|
|
Post by Leon on Jun 9, 2016 19:48:47 GMT -5
Nice work on the 6 pounders Bill! They look really good. Talk about a tight squeeze WOW.
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 9, 2016 20:39:06 GMT -5
Nice work on the 6 pounders Bill! They look really good. Talk about a tight squeeze WOW. Not much margin for error, that's for sure!
|
|
martslay
Full Member
Member since: February 2016
Posts: 1,113
Feb 7, 2016 9:41:13 GMT -5
Feb 7, 2016 9:41:13 GMT -5
|
Post by martslay on Jun 10, 2016 3:45:39 GMT -5
Awesome! Very good work, Bill!
|
|
|
Post by dierk on Jun 10, 2016 4:34:40 GMT -5
6 pounderlicious?
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 10, 2016 9:43:03 GMT -5
Thanks Martin ! 6 pounderlicious? Flame broiled and just the way you like it!
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 10, 2016 16:39:39 GMT -5
Spent the day working on all the air funnels for the different areas on the deck. These are the parts that need the most clean-up out of the entire kit, so I knew it was going to be a fun session. I put a clean #11 blade into the knife handle and set to it, removing flash, adjusting mold shift seams, and generally getting them presentable. Murphy would approve, the ones with the most flash and worst shifts were the 8 smallest of the bunch. I also cleaned up the boat support frames and did a mock-up to see how things were going to look on the boat deck with the fittings I've assembled so far. I still need to assemble the intricate PE replacement for the main engine access hatch, that's a little kit all by itself, but will do that after I've got the current batch of stuff painted and dealt with.
|
|
|
Post by Leon on Jun 10, 2016 16:48:53 GMT -5
Nice work on the cleanup Bill and the mock up looks good!
|
|
|
Post by armorguy on Jun 10, 2016 17:52:29 GMT -5
It looks fantastic, so much details, each little part glued on with pure love, it shows !
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 10, 2016 19:29:04 GMT -5
Thanks Leon! It's always good to check placement first on these older kits...can't take anything for granted! AG, so far that's not included my fingers getting stuck together, always a good thing.
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 11, 2016 16:48:55 GMT -5
I decided to go ahead and work on the engine access hatch PE assembly so I can include it in the next round of airbrush work. It's a delicate assembly of 12 different pieces of PE. I bent up the base box shape first and hand-painted its interior with the Gunship Gray so that there wouldn't be any bare brass showing later. Then the top was added and the side bow frames for the canvas foul-weather cover installed. These frames have very small tabs that slot into the base box and tension is enough to hold them in place until the small side rails were glued in to lock them in position on either side. Definitely a test of the Optivisor and steady hands skill departments! This is how it will sit on the boat deck after it's painted and installed with the other fittings.
|
|
|
Post by Leon on Jun 11, 2016 17:38:43 GMT -5
Nice PE work there Bill! I take it you didn't have any coffee before hand.
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 11, 2016 18:05:58 GMT -5
Nice PE work there Bill! I take it you didn't have any coffee before hand. Zero coffee and lots of deep breaths! Thanks Leon.
|
|
|
Post by kaytermarram on Jun 12, 2016 6:46:32 GMT -5
When seeing the PE work I wonder how the builders of the old Revell kit way back in the 70ties may have handled this superdetailing... It must have been a pain in the a$$ coming up with something similar! Great work here. I think, this kit will be a gem when finished!
Frank
|
|
|
Post by wbill76 on Jun 12, 2016 10:57:43 GMT -5
When seeing the PE work I wonder how the builders of the old Revell kit way back in the 70ties may have handled this superdetailing... It must have been a pain in the a$$ coming up with something similar! Great work here. I think, this kit will be a gem when finished! Frank Thanks Frank! We are spoiled these days with super detailed options. I imagine that the only real alternative would have been to modify the kit parts themselves with careful thinning or scratch building.
|
|
|
Post by kaytermarram on Jun 12, 2016 12:49:16 GMT -5
When I see the elder work of Shep Paine and read about it in HOW TO BUILD DIORAMA, it is all clear. I mean, those guys did complete interiors from scratch only using plastic strip and rod. MAYBE we now are a bit "overrun" by super detail sets galore. On the other hand, seeing PE sets with parts smaller than a fly eye, hey, you must be a magnificent builder to handle this!
Frank
|
|