Nice to see this one with paint on Doogs! I think often times people forget that Panzer Gray (true panzer gray) was a very dark gray to begin with and while dirt/dust/fading etc. would alter the vehicle's color, the start point is still a dark base. What you've got here on this 38(t) looks just right to my eye. Looking forward to more!
Unfortunately, there's a problem. Well, two problems.
First, to cover both track runs (if my count is right the one pictured is 91 links), I need 182 links. By my count there are 186 with the kit. Now...that's nice and all, but it leaves me with only four spare links, where the kit calls for ten. So...short by at least one track sprue (they contain six per).
Second, I ran out of track pins tonight. By my count of the links remaining to be pinned (including the lengths of 8 I'm working from), I'm short by at least 50 pins. Part of this is due to the little buggers pinging out of my tweezers. And probably at least 30 being short shot or otherwise unusable. It's not a huge deal - I'll snag some small-diameter styrene rod and keep going (when I'll find time during the day to get to the LHS to get said rod is another matter) - but it is frustrating.
Guess I'll shift over to the tools and stowage tomorrow night if the BM-21 hasn't shown.
Looking real good! Trust that you will be able to figure out about the pins... I use dresser pins on my Friuls tracks. May might work too...
The pin situation is different from friul tracks. On friuls, you basically need one long length of pin to span the whole link. The Panda tracks use two small pins at either end. But I did find a length of 0.2" rod that worked rather well. Sadly, only had four links left over, not the ten I need for the spares mounted to the tank.
Also got a start with the whitewashing last night. I've been playing around with True Earth's whitewashing filter over the past day or two and finally felt comfortable enough to use it on one of the wheels. Really like the heavily worn look of the stuff.
Post by scratchmod on Jun 17, 2013 18:07:03 GMT -5
Looking good with the W/W on her. I tied some of the TE paints but found them to be way too thin. If it were thicker one could thin for the AB, but when it's thin like water you get leittle coverage and need to apply many layers. Unless they changed it and they are thicker now.
Wrecks & Rust forum
The stuff is definitely thin...but after experimenting with it I found I really liked the translucence it produced with the whitewash. Hence the decision to throw down some Tamiya XF-2 as the base. Getting solid coverage with the TE whitewash by itself could be a nightmare.
Been MIA for the last several nights grinding on a big presentation that I finally delivered yesterday (one of our higher-ups called it the best content strategy that's ever come out of our company...woot!).
So...back to the bench. I keep procrastinating on the pioneer tools and such, and decided to continue that procrastination last night by painting the tracks. I'm a huge fan of Vallejo's Track Primer color for this, but it's a bit light (awesome for, say, a Dunkelgelb-based tank), so I darkened it with about 25% Dark Gray. Airbrushed it on with one of my cheap knockoff airbrushes.
Still have some small touch-ups to do, and some second coating in places before I really dive into weathering the tracks. And I really, really need to get to work on those stupid pioneer tools (note to self - next armor project, DO THESE FIRST).
Made some more progress! Apologies as these are phone pics.
Got the tracks washed last night. I tried AK's track wash on one spare link and ugh. I just didn't buy the color or sheen (looks weirdly metallic) at all. I don't know. I hear all these great things about AK, but every time I try their stuff I'm left disappointed. Same with the streaking grime products. SO much happier with using oils.
So what oils were used? In three acts...a Raw Umber wash. Followed by Burnt Sienna (rust-ish), followed by a Raw Umber/Payne's Gray wash. Lots of variation and randomness that's not immediately apparent in the crappy phone pic. This will all be topped by pigments, with a #2 pencil used to bring out metal bits.
Next, I started on the streaking. Again, tried and did not like the AK products. So back to oils. Raw umber, Payne's Gray, and Transparent White. To do the streaks I dip the tip of an airbrush needle in the cap of each paint, then lightly tap it along the top of the area to be streaked. Get out a wide Aqualon Wisp brush, get it just barely damp with odorless thinner, then sweep down in quick, straight, light strokes. Over and over.
Got a bit more done last night...mixed up some plaster, glue, water, dirt, some chopped up Woodland Scenics field grass and pigment to give a bit more of a packed-mud look around the fenders, forward transmission plate, etc.
Unfortunately, it turned white! Went back over it with Vallejo track primer (a FICE color for the MIG Russian Earth), then over-pigmented it.
Also used AK Interactive Fuel Stains to stain up the wheels, which seemed to leak copiously in every photo of the 38 I've ever seen.
desertrat: i'am still sleeping.
Mar 9, 2015 15:28:31 GMT -5
4bogreen: Why are kid already awake around 06:30 AM....and then push their stuffed animal in your face while sleeping....
Mar 28, 2015 1:52:03 GMT -5
itsonlyakit: To panzerconor, I have an Iwata Eclipse airbrush, you will not be disappointed. An easy AB to clean because of large nozzle. Also have Iwata Revolution and an HPC Plus, the Eclipse is my fave.
Apr 4, 2015 3:04:51 GMT -5
desertrat: great day out at sword and lance, well done darlington!!!
Apr 12, 2015 4:44:20 GMT -5