DML Panzer II Ausf F- DAK

[deafpanzer]

Thanks man!!!

[Tobi]

I like where this is heading.

Might be a good idea to switch the "Continentau" branding on the wheels to "Continental" with a little scraping from a sharp blade?

[panzerjager2]

Awesome work

[deafpanzer]

Jan 24, 2017 14:53:46 GMT -5 Tobi said:

I like where this is heading.

Might be a good idea to switch the "Continentau" branding on the wheels to "Continental" with a little scraping from a sharp blade?

YIKES!! Are you just teasing me? Or is it one of Dragon's errors? I am already too far ahead in the game to make adjustments but I can try to cover as much sand as I can to hide those. LOL I will see what I can do. Thanks for the tip!

[deafpanzer]

PJ- Missed your post... thanks!

[Tobi]

It's a deliberate mistake made by Dragon to avoid license fees, as the Company Continental exists today, still!

[sturmbird]

been looking at Andy's paint jobs and weathering for way too many years now. They are amongst the best out there, and not over done like a lot of folks do. Be nice to see some tutorials on paint chipping alone.

keep up the good work Andy
gary

[adt70hk]

Andy

Apologies missed the updates!!

Lookibg very nice indeed.

Andrew

[SMJmodeler]

Deafpanzer: Dang-it that turret looks good!  Can you give us a bit more info please.  Paint color?, brushes used?, washes over it?, etc...do tell!  That's some fine work there and it looks like hours of tedious effort.  Spot ON!!!

I just read a previous post mentioning you do a toot', I'd be all over that!

[deafpanzer]

Jan 24, 2017 16:21:30 GMT -5 Tobi said:

It's a deliberate mistake made by Dragon to avoid license fees, as the Company Continental exists today, still!

Last night I was able to adjust the words on the tires with brand new blade and painted over. I am glad you shared this... it makes sense now regarding licensing just like using the word 'Jeep' which is not allowed for many model kits.

[deafpanzer]

Gary- You are too nice! LOL I'd be more than happy to do a toot. I completely forgot but luckily I haven't tackled the hull so will do that tonight if my wife lets me. LOL

Andrew- Thanks man!!!

Steve- I hope I remember your name correctly. Yeah it took me about two hours to do the wheels and turrets. But remember I have ADHD and I love to check my iPhone every five minutes or even play my fav card game app doing my short breaks. LOL Absolutely I can do that tonight. I use AK chipping fluid. I will share my experience and how I do the chipping. Thanks for the nice words!

[Leon]

Missed your updated on the turret and wheels buddy! Looking really good.

[Tobi]

Jan 25, 2017 11:57:56 GMT -5 deafpanzer said:

Jan 24, 2017 16:21:30 GMT -5 Tobi said:

It's a deliberate mistake made by Dragon to avoid license fees, as the Company Continental exists today, still!

Last night I was able to adjust the words on the tires with brand new blade and painted over. I am glad you shared this... it makes sense now regarding licensing just like using the word 'Jeep' which is not allowed for many model kits.

They made this a common practice with all their kits, though Continental wasn't the only company to produce this kind of parts. For example Fulda did them as well. Other Chinese companies have already started to copy the practice of Dragon and the "Continentau" branding, like Bronco with their new range of StuG's...

So always look close! 

[deafpanzer]

Leon- Good lord, I thought you loved me?!?!? LOL Always good hearing from you... thanks!

Tobi- Yeah, I know what you mean. We have one too many shark lawyers out there... LOL Glad you mentioned so it won't happen again. +1 karma for you my friend!

[joelsmith]

If you have looked closely at the AFV Club Nashorn you will see that the tires were made by Dunlop. I asked about this when I noticed, and was told that Dunlop had a German/European subsidiary that was taken over by the German war machine. talk more soon, Joel.

[tonylee-Rest In Peace]

You chippy you,good job too.


Tony lee

[Tobi]

Jan 25, 2017 15:34:54 GMT -5 joelsmith said:

If you have looked closely at the AFV Club Nashorn you will see that the tires were made by Dunlop. I asked about this when I noticed, and was told that Dunlop had a German/European subsidiary that was taken over by the German war machine. talk more soon, Joel.

The Wehrmacht also had trucks from Ford. General Motors, who was the owner of Opel in 1933 (and is so today) made good business with the NSDAP. Jewish employees were either fired or their position transferred to the US...

[SMJmodeler]

deafpanzer:  You remembered my name correctly.  So, you used AK chipping fluids...WOW!  I have the stuff and have used it before but for a much broader effect.  I love the fact that you're actually "chipping" (removing paint) in the real sense versus adding layering to simulate the wear. Nice!  I'd still be up for seeing a toot', I bet it you could do one and keep it pretty short...I think the main thing we need to know is the amount of AK, drying times, tools used to remove paint, etc.  Again, nice work...one of the best I've seen.

[deafpanzer]

Joel- Its funny I grew up not far from Dunlop factory in Buffalo. Thanks for sharing!

Tony- Thanks uncle... chipping is probably my favorite part of weathering.

Tobi- I have heard plenty about Ford and GM factories in Germany prior the war. Crazy! I am wondering if we see 'Ford' on model kits too or they are copyrighted too?

Steve- I am surprised that I still haven't lost my mind... I am not too good with names either! LOL Thanks for the nice words. Posting chipping toots right after this.

[mrt51]

Jan 24, 2017 14:18:50 GMT -5 deafpanzer said:

Chipping has started... only the turret and the wheels.





The hull is NEXT!

Looking great!

[406 Silverado]

She's looking great so far buddy. Now you can start having fun with it....the weathering..lol

[Tobi]

I have googled war time pictures of the Ford V3000 that was built by "Ford Werke Koeln", but these trucks didn't have any branding on the radiator grille.

When you look at Tamiyas Opel Blitz on the other hand, they made only an indication of the name. If you want to have the letters, you need to buy AM PE.

[deafpanzer]

Here's toot on chipping as promised... I am doing my best!

My choice of weapons... I choose Tamiya as paint to be chipped because I find them to be easier for 'controlled' chipping.  Base coat and everything else is usually Vallejo.  



I forgot to include brush with long soft point in the pic but you can see it in one of the pics below. I use short & stiff brush as seen in pic for corners or some places where paint is harder to remove or where I want to see heavy chipping like wheels and edges. Long one is good for flat surfaces or places where paint is very thin and it is good for light chipping. I am huge fan of this product called AK Heavy Chipping Fluid. MIG and others also make the same stuff.

Call me crazy! I think this really helps... warmer water makes the job easier so I use cheap coffee warmer that my wife wanted to rid of long time ago.



Now most of the times I use the paintbrush with long brush for flat surfaces or the fender just like this because I don't want to touch the bottom surface.  Dampen the surface with little water first and wait for few seconds to allow the paint to soak before you can do chipping. If you wait too long or added too much water, it may be too soft and you will remove too much paint. 



I use my short & stiff paintbrush for places where I want to see a lot of chipping especially the wheels. The left has been untreated so you can see the difference.



I even use back of my paintbrush edge for some places where it is hard to reach like edge of the side hatches...



Long pin is an awesome tool for me to reach very tight places or work on fragile places like the panzer's light...



Keep in mind I also use pin to make long straight scratches anywhere where they are more likely to happen. Then tackle those scratches with long soft brush to make them little wider. I was pleased with the result. Pin is great to break hard surfaces if you overspray paint too on some places.



Sometimes it is so easy or tempting to overdo with chipping. It always happen to me! I had few surfaces repainted where I thought I overdid. Just take your time to do the chipping! It took me about four hours total to do the whole thing...





One more thing... I try to focus on where contacts would be more likely to be made by the crew (boots, personal gear, stowages) and hitting against surrounding objects such as plants, trees and stuff. And even battle scars from light weapons.

[deafpanzer]

Terry- Thanks buddy!

Rob- Thanks boss! Maybe you can come over and help me in the weathering department?

Tobi- Aftermarket?!?!? Did I ever tell you how much I love aftermarket stuff? LOL Thanks once again!

[Tobi]

Dupes suggested "Aftermarket Anonymous" to me... 

[Tojo72]

Chipping really looks good,not overdone at all.

[sturmbird]

Jan 26, 2017 0:56:56 GMT -5 Tobi said:

Jan 25, 2017 15:34:54 GMT -5 joelsmith said:

If you have looked closely at the AFV Club Nashorn you will see that the tires were made by Dunlop. I asked about this when I noticed, and was told that Dunlop had a German/European subsidiary that was taken over by the German war machine. talk more soon, Joel.

The Wehrmacht also had trucks from Ford. General Motors, who was the owner of Opel in 1933 (and is so today) made good business with the NSDAP. Jewish employees were either fired or their position transferred to the US...

to get really good feel for manufacturing in prewar Germany, as well as the war years, I would recommend reading the book "Trading With The Enemy." It was written by Charles Higham with an ISBN #0-7607-0009-5. There's a couple other very good books as well, but this one is the best start.

Opel was taken over by the NAZI's, but there was still quite a few questions asked about that in 1946 & 1947. The car plant conversion was often discussed and cussed internally (to build BF109's). Not a lot of data internally to look at (and I did look).

There was a call to arrest Henry Ford after the war in Congress. Of course it never happened. The Nazi's never really took over the Ford plants, and he actually built new repair plants during the war. You will not see a Chrysler or Dodge plant in Germany do to their ethnic background alone.

What I wrote above can be taken as political, but trust me it's simple history. Some of it is resurfacing 70 years later. Now we are chasing the money trail after the war with corporations like BMW and Mercedes. VW was the absolute worst (still is).

gary

[sturmbird]

Jan 26, 2017 12:54:33 GMT -5 deafpanzer said:

Here's toot on chipping as promised... I am doing my best!

My choice of weapons... I choose Tamiya as paint to be chipped because I find them to be easier for 'controlled' chipping.  Base coat and everything else is usually Vallejo.  



I forgot to include brush with long soft point in the pic but you can see it in one of the pics below. I use short & stiff brush as seen in pic for corners or some places where paint is harder to remove or where I want to see heavy chipping like wheels and edges. Long one is good for flat surfaces or places where paint is very thin and it is good for light chipping. I am huge fan of this product called AK Heavy Chipping Fluid. MIG and others also make the same stuff.

Call me crazy! I think this really helps... warmer water makes the job easier so I use cheap coffee warmer that my wife wanted to rid of long time ago.



Now most of the times I use the paintbrush with long brush for flat surfaces or the fender just like this because I don't want to touch the bottom surface.  Dampen the surface with little water first and wait for few seconds to allow the paint to soak before you can do chipping. If you wait too long or added too much water, it may be too soft and you will remove too much paint. 



I use my short & stiff paintbrush for places where I want to see a lot of chipping especially the wheels. The left has been untreated so you can see the difference.



I even use back of my paintbrush edge for some places where it is hard to reach like edge of the side hatches...



Long pin is an awesome tool for me to reach very tight places or work on fragile places like the panzer's light...



Keep in mind I also use pin to make long straight scratches anywhere where they are more likely to happen. Then tackle those scratches with long soft brush to make them little wider. I was pleased with the result. Pin is great to break hard surfaces if you overspray paint too on some places.



Sometimes it is so easy or tempting to overdo with chipping. It always happen to me! I had few surfaces repainted where I thought I overdid. Just take your time to do the chipping! It took me about four hours total to do the whole thing...





One more thing... I try to focus on where contacts would be more likely to be made by the crew (boots, personal gear, stowages) and hitting against surrounding objects such as plants, trees and stuff. And even battle scars from light weapons.

just call me insanely jealous! I absolutely love this build Andy, and went up stairs looking in my all time high stash for something similar. I found a Tamiya IIf, but that kit's not that great. I did find a Dragon Panzer IIIg, and I may try my luck at a seriously beat up track in Africa. Yet I am on another "Ost Front" thing again.

gary

[deafpanzer]

Tobi- Sign me up now! They better be serving beer too!

Anthony- Thanks my friend!

Gary- LOL! Go for it! I am glad you liked it. Matter of fact my next WWII american armor will be M20 with weary whitewash. LOL

[sturmbird]

Jan 26, 2017 17:30:38 GMT -5 deafpanzer said:

Tobi- Sign me up now! They better be serving beer too!

Anthony- Thanks my friend!

Gary- LOL! Go for it! I am glad you liked it. Matter of fact my next WWII american armor will be M20 with weary whitewash. LOL

somebody sells new tires and wheels that have tire chains on them. Somewhere I have a set that I plan on using on the Tamiya kit (or their M8). Legend or Black Dog do a great stowage it. Voyager or Lion Roar have a great photo etch kit.

gary