Worst decals EVER - help!

[dupes]

Alright there, MSC braintrust - need your assistance! Let's lay out a timeline, first.

• Sometime in 2007 - Dupes uses Academy kit decals on a 1/48 scale MiG-21PF. Swears to never use them again!
• <time passes, Dupes uses only replacement decals on Academy kits>
• November 2015 - Dupes says "my decal technique has improved immensely in the past 8 years, I can tackle any set of decals!".

That brings us all up to present day. Here's my current situation:



Yep, kit decals on this 1/72 P-47D. I started with the standard micro sol/set combo over a glossy finish. Decals didn't lay down. Couple more applications of sol. No luck, so I broke out the big gun, which I very rarely use because it's so strong - Solvaset! Not surprisingly, the bottle I have is dated from 2007...guess what kit I bought it for? Unfortunately, after three full-strength doses, I'm no closer to getting these things to lay down than when I started.

My question to you - is there something even STRONGER than Solvaset? Or a different technique altogether to get these to conform? Not that I'm out a ton of time if I can't make these pan out, but I'd hate to waste the kit and the hours if I can avoid it. Shoot me some ideas!

[dierk]

The shooting bit I could do, but ideas-wise I'm firing blanks. Sorry mate, hope a solution comes forth.

[TRM]

LOL...I like the shooting part too!! But I tend to lean toward the destructive side of things!!

Try white vinegar Dupes. If you want to have a safe go at it, cu it 50/50 and work up from there. I'm sure there might be a few other options some if the fine folks he might have for suggestion as well.

Good luck!

[dupes]

White vinegar? Let me check the cabinet! At this point I'll try just about anything.

I suppose I should start looking to see if anybody made an aftermarket set with the same tail checkers as well.

[TRM]

Not a bad idea to look for the AM stuff...if you probably don't ALREADY HAVE THEM! LOL!! Guessing you have that list exhausted already!

Yes vinegar! Take a sniff of the MicroSol brotha...main ingredient I suspect!

[dupes]

Yeah, I kinda figured that there was at least some component of vinegar in the micro set. So I dug out some WV and put it on - the decals laughed in my general direction! Didn't phase them in the least.

Unless someone comes up with a magical solution before the end of the day I'll probably try some sort of a diluted white glue mixture to see if I can get them to adhere. Should dry clear so I can put a flat coat over them. Won't be contest worthy (most likely), but at least I can finish it!

Oh, and as far as aftermarket decals - if it were 1/48 or 1/32 I'd be fine, but I'm sorely lacking in the braille department. :/

[TRM]

Outside home remedies, gluing might be your next option. Not sure if you have any unused decals from the same kit...Alcohol, acetone and water might do the trick, depending on how brave you are. 40/20/40 might render the POS vinyl based decals into submission...LOL!! You're not the first nor the last to complain about the Academy Decs...almost time to put some sticky notes on the un-built kits for future reference!

[TRM]

Just found some of this - Walthers Goo Solvaset Not that you want to try and find it somewhere and wait...bu from what is in the contents it should eat anything...decals, plastic, small animals, Andy's collection of memorabilia...!

[dupes]

Look at the bottom of my first post - two full strength applications of Solvaset already!!! Seriously, I stay away from that stuff unless it's an absolute emergency...it will totally melt thinner, more fragile decals (I can show you pics). And it didn't even phase these!

Alcohol and acetone - what does that combo do together? The only thing I'd worry about there is that alcohol tends to chew through Future pretty handily (and I'm guessing that acetone might as well?), and that's what I used for my gloss coat.

[TRM]

Hmmm...I did freakin read that too...LOL!! Well, if that didn't work, or eat through the acrylic clear coat, pretty sure alcohol won't. Or at least I haven't had it yet when its cured. Well there is always gluing like you mentioned...after that, if it was mine? Shelf or bin it and move on! Too many models, too little time!!

[dupes]

Believe, me I'm thinking the same thing! Glue it is.

Of course, I just found a Barracudacal set that has the proper checkers. Do I drop 13 bucks on decal set for a 2 dollar kit? Hah.

[TRM]

Nope....honestly you do not! It's just a kit! Try the glue...maybe it will pass...if it don't...make the kit a wreck or sent it to the island of misfit toys! You probably will come across the kit at a show again....for $2.

[JimD]

Yeah, if Solvaset isn't working I have no idea what will. It's the hottest stuff I've ever used. I actually use it exclusively, but I also almost always use AM decals. Academy's decals should be avoided...unless they are the new kits with Cartograf printed ones. But that doesn't help you now.

You may try the hairdryer technique. It's usually used on good decals, but I have heard of people trying it on Tamiya's awful decals with some supposed success.

[BJ]

Jim, just gave you my suggestion, try low level heat that's how we get them to form in the sign shop

That or water downed Elmers.

If all else fails. 1/8th inch pinstripe tape. paint it yellow and mask. 

[wbill76]

If Solvaset won't do it, then these truly are decals from hell. The only time I've encountered that kind of problem was, you guessed it, on an Academy kit...specifically their M3 Stuart.

[totalize]

Dupes,

Tough deal. I have never glued decals but did you give any thought to painting the checkers on? Prep first with white paint. then paint yellow then section off the black checkers and paint those last?

Just a thought.

[dupes]

Nov 17, 2015 12:22:14 GMT -5 totalize said:

I have never glued decals but did you give any thought to painting the checkers on? Prep first with white paint. then paint yellow then section off the black checkers and paint those last?

For a more "serious" build I certainly would have done that. This was supposed to be a wham-bam-done! kind of a build...so I figured I'd give the decals a shot. Never again!

[dupes]

Nov 17, 2015 12:15:18 GMT -5 wbill76 said:

If Solvaset won't do it, then these truly are decals from hell.

That's what I said! I couldn't believe they completely ignored the Solvaset. I've melted Tamiya decals before with that stuff!

[dupes]

Nov 17, 2015 12:04:39 GMT -5 BJ said:

That or water downed Elmers.

Good to know that someone has tried this successfully - that's what I'm shooting for tonight!

[dupes]

Nov 17, 2015 11:05:23 GMT -5 JimD said:

Yeah, if Solvaset isn't working I have no idea what will. It's the hottest stuff I've ever used. I actually use it exclusively, but I also almost always use AM decals.

Exclusively? Don't you find it to be too strong for thin AM decals? Or do you dilute it?

I need to dig out the pic of the build where I melted my Tamiya decals using a light application of Solvaset.

[wbill76]

Just a random thought and one I'm sure you've already tried...but have you tried applying the Solvaset under the decal as well as on top of it? As thick as they are, a topical application only isn't going to do enough to soften them but a two-sided attack just might.

Like Jimmy, Solvaset is my exclusive decal method too...but I usually only apply it in very small amounts on top of the decal after it's already positioned. On very rare occasions it will create bubbles but I've never had it totally melt a decal.

[dupes]

Unfortunately, yes...flooded it in between the decals that should meet over the rudder with no results. Believe me, I was quite surprised that nothing happened!

[JimD]

Yep. Exclusively...practically. I don't always have to use it on really good decals. For example I followed the dryer tip on the WNW decals and didn't touch them with any liquid.

My typical work flow is:

1. Soak decals in hot water to loosen from paper

2. Wet model where I'll apply them with water.

3. Whick excess away from decal on paper dowel and apply to model.

4. With a soft rag I'll dry tje decal amd and aggressively press decal into surface to squeeze out air.

5. Allow to dry completely.

6. Now I come back and apply solvaset. Modestly at first. If I don't touch the decal in any way until it's absolutely dry I never have problems. I have melted decals but only when I've tried touching them in any way like you can get away with with the Microscale stuff.

7. Repeat with Solvaset if necessary. Again, the previous application must be completely dry.




Now I've heard the Gunze decal stuff is more aggressive that the Microscale stuff and I've recently got some that I'll be trying but I don't think it will help you because again, it's not as strong as Solvaset.

[dupes]

Gunze - is that the "Mr. Mark Softer" or something like that? Read about that as a possible option...but if it isn't as strong as Solvaset, then no point.

[JimD]

Yes. That's it. But no it's not as strong as Solvaset

[dupes]

Update - the thinned white glue thing didn't pan out. These things are impervious to EVERYTHING.

Everything except (hopefully) super glue. That's my next try at lunch today.

[wing_nut]

If Solvaset didn't do it? Isn't that Walter White puts in the drum to destroy all traces of bodies etc? I think it's time for a new scheme and some AM decals.

[Deleted]

Aren't those decals thicker than PE fret? I am going to have to go with Wing_Nut on this one.... time for some AM decals. Sorry you have to deal with those decals.

[dupes]

If it were the entire plane, I probably would (well, that and if I hadn't paid only 2 bucks for this thing at a show). It's JUST THE STUPID TAIL. I actually tried removing the decals thinking I would just mask and paint (somehow), but they won't come off. Won't conform to the curves, but they won't come off.

Thanks Academy.

[legend]

Dupes ,why not paint the checkerboard?? dead easy with a little care.
if you want i'll write a walk through

bill