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Post by wbill76 on Jan 31, 2016 13:07:24 GMT -5
In an effort to try to determine what timeframe the turret was produced, the one solid clue is the pistol port. That places it pre-July 1943 as one bookend before that was changed out for a simpler plug. Now for the other. The spare track brackets appeared in March-April 1943. So the turret was likely produced April-June 1943. That's well within the factory-applied DY period which started in Feb 1943 but before factory zim started in August 1943. Dragon seems to follow that with the other steps it calls for like removing the weld lines for turret smoke launchers, deleted from production in June 1943, and adding in the loader's periscope (March 1943 feature). Can't really tell with the reference photos if that's 100% true for F13, but seems plausible. I'm using Achtung Panzer #6 as my main reference for these dates. Now the mystery...the zim and what would be under it. It had to be added later at some point after production, either as a factory overhaul or field applied. So what paint color would be under it? Not Panzer Gray I think based on the evidence at hand, so I will probably go with the red oxide same as the hull. As for trying to date the hull, that's a whole different ball game that I am not even going to start with! All that is clear is it has to be pre-Oct 1943 due to the Bosch light placement...which is before steel wheels were introduced in Feb 1944...so by April 1945, all sorts of things could have been changed on this baby in terms of features!
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reserve
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Si vis pacem para bellum
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Post by reserve on Jan 31, 2016 18:33:42 GMT -5
Who knows what the tank mechanics did in times of shortages, eh? Well done brother
Regards, Mark
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Post by wbill76 on Jan 31, 2016 18:57:35 GMT -5
Who knows what the tank mechanics did in times of shortages, eh? Well done brother Regards, Mark So many possibilities Mark! Add in the fact that the Germans had a standing habit of updating any vehicles to the 'current' standard where possible if they were sent back to the factory for rebuild/overhaul and it becomes mind-boggling. Given that the Fehrmann Tigers were not in frontline service in April 1945 but instead were driving school vehicles pressed into last-ditch service, you get a lot of variation between the different tanks in the group. One thing is for sure, the turret number F13 was added over the exposed area on the turret and it's a really dark surface, so the shabbiness there was already present...definitely not a set of parade-ground vehicles at all!
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SMJmodeler
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Oct 28, 2015 13:55:05 GMT -5
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Post by SMJmodeler on Feb 1, 2016 10:08:08 GMT -5
wbill76: I just read your latest posts. I'm really enjoying your play-by-play updates and the additional photo/ colors interpretation chat is interesting. I also had my questions answered about how to apply the Cav' zim' I have for a future Panther, very helpful.
I really like the custom battle damage touches on the zim'. I'll be interested to see how you depict those exposed primer areas. Everything's looking great Bill!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 1, 2016 11:06:55 GMT -5
Thanks Steve! Got to love the world of German armor...almost impossible to say anything happened 'always' or 'never' depending!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 1, 2016 19:30:40 GMT -5
I spent some time today working on the main deck tool arrangements. These are dealt with mostly under Step 10 but also Step 12...and in a weird omission, the instructions have no Step 11. I think that sets a new standard of strangeness when it comes to Dragon kit instructions. I filled in the mount holes for the S-mine launchers and added the kit-supplied PE mount plates as called out in Step 12. I also opted to use some generic Griffon PE clamps for the various tools as they are only 2-part vs. the kit-supplied PE clamps that are 3-part. I tested out each individual tool's placement and filled in a couple of open mount holes that weren't needed with Squadron White putty in different spots. It may not look like much, but it's an important hurdle to clear. I still need to add the driver's and gunner's hatches along with the Bosch lights to round out this area.
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Post by dierk on Feb 2, 2016 5:34:09 GMT -5
Tool clamps - yay: bet you're glad that's out of the way
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adt70hk
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Member since: November 2015
Currently attempting to build something decent!!! ;)
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Post by adt70hk on Feb 2, 2016 7:14:28 GMT -5
Nice work Bill - keep it up!!
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DeafStuG
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Post by DeafStuG on Feb 2, 2016 7:33:25 GMT -5
Nice PE add on.
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 2, 2016 11:14:18 GMT -5
Dierk, always feels good to check them off the list in the March to completion! Thanks Andrew and Jeremy!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 2, 2016 16:45:39 GMT -5
Managed to sneak in a little bit of time today on the Tiger and knocked off the rest of the main hull details. I decided to add the tool clamps for the glacis-mounted large shovel but won't be installing the shovel itself. For that, I used a combination of the kit-provided PE and the Griffon clamps as well as some scale diagrams in Achtung Panzer to help with their placement as the instructions are a little off in their suggested arrangement. All of the tools are removable from the clamps and are just dry-fit for now to show how tight it all is. The hull hatches were added and installed in the closed position. I used some small blobs of blue tack to mask the periscope front faces and painted some Testors Non-buffing Metalizer Steel to their backsides to create a slightly reflective surface that will show through after they are fully painted/detailed and the masking removed. In doing my features & dates research, I came across an interesting detail that indicated the right side Bosch light was deleted in August 1943 but the conduit and rosette 'plug' into the hull were left in place. I thought that would add some character and it also fit in with the later zimmed hull features timeframe that the F13 reference photos suggest, so I left the right side light off entirely. I used the kit-supplied pre-bent steel wire for the right side and would've done the same for the left except it pinged into oblivion while I was working with it. Out came some 0.5mm solder so I could scratch a reasonably similar replacement. To install the light itself, you have to remove the four molded-on bolts on the mount plate (the instructions neglect to mention this), easily done with the trusty old #11 blade. Next up will be moving on to the turret!
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SMJmodeler
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Post by SMJmodeler on Feb 2, 2016 17:22:51 GMT -5
Hey Bill: How'd you get some work in today?...is modeling your job?! Great gig if you can get it huh? Tool work looks great!, I especially like the omission of the glacis shovel. I noticed in some of your earlier pic's you had both front fenders on, now the port side is omitted, what gives? Are you planning to leave it off? In the old photos it's hard to tell if it was there or not. I also noticed some serious track sag in those old pic's, is that just the terrain or missing road wheels or ...that would be cool to represent that as another unique touch!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 2, 2016 17:55:22 GMT -5
Hey Bill: How'd you get some work in today?...is modeling your job?! Great gig if you can get it huh? Tool work looks great!, I especially like the omission of the glacis shovel. I noticed in some of your earlier pic's you had both front fenders on, now the port side is omitted, what gives? Are you planning to leave it off? In the old photos it's hard to tell if it was there or not. I also noticed some serious track sag in those old pic's, is that just the terrain or missing road wheels or ...that would be cool to represent that as another unique touch! Modeling is still just a hobby 'with benefits' for me Steve! If I tried to make it a full-time job, I think I'd starve and come to hate it vs. enjoying it. My regular job is teaching as a Business professor and Tuesday nights are my class nights...tonight is a relatively light one in terms of preparation so I got lucky with a little extra bench time as a result. Now to your questions: 1) The Mystery of the Missing Fender --- no need to call in Sherlock Holmes for this one, in the available photos of F13, it's clear the front fender is gone in the first photo even though the little glacis plate extension/support is still there as a 'ledge' sticking out from under the driver's front armor plate (it would be, that would take a blowtorch to remove/cut away for no real reason or benefit!). Since I have no idea if the same is true for the opposite side, one fender stayed and one had to go. So I surgically removed the one I was sure was gone (plus it goes hand-in-hand with some of the other damage visible and makes some logical sense for it to be gone IMHO...) but left the other in place. 2) F13 was knocked out in combat and shoved off the road in the position it's in when the photos are taken. At least 2, and maybe even 3, of the road wheels are just gone...so that's what is producing the sag you see. If I were going to do the whole 'wrecked' approach, that would be something I would definitely add. Since I'm going with the pre-knocked-out state (Tiger's weight would make it virtually impossible for it to drive without those wheels), that's not something I'm planning to replicate. Thanks as always for dropping in on the ramblings!
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Post by TRM on Feb 2, 2016 18:08:00 GMT -5
Not yet you're not going to replicate the knocked out version!! We will get you there someday my friend!! I was pretty far behind on this one....all caught up now! Fine work throughout the Zimm and clasps, things are looking in great shape! Bet you can;t wait to get this one into some color soon!!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 2, 2016 18:18:24 GMT -5
Thanks Todd! It wouldn't be a very good dio...half the vehicle is shoved into the bushes and trees! Paint is still a little ways off, turret poses its own set of challenges first.
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Post by TRM on Feb 2, 2016 19:15:47 GMT -5
My bad jumping the gun on the color...LOL!! The damn trees would be my downfall on the knock out!! I'll keep trying....you never know when you take the walk on the wild side!!
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Post by Leon on Feb 2, 2016 19:55:32 GMT -5
Great work on the clamps Bill! Kitty is looking better and better.
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 2, 2016 22:55:21 GMT -5
Thanks Leon!
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afvfan
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Member since: December 2012
Bob
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Dec 10, 2012 17:32:38 GMT -5
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Post by afvfan on Feb 3, 2016 0:11:22 GMT -5
Thanks Todd! It wouldn't be a very good dio...half the vehicle is shoved into the bushes and trees! Paint is still a little ways off, turret poses its own set of challenges first. Those trees would make it easy. You'd only have to build half of the tank.
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Post by armorguy on Feb 3, 2016 6:00:36 GMT -5
The clamps look fantastico ! Clamps on my hobby bench make me curse...lol.
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 3, 2016 12:43:48 GMT -5
Bob, very true, it could be a time-saver if done right! AG, thanks and I agree...the Aber variety, in particular, are nightmare-inducing!
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 4, 2016 18:41:20 GMT -5
Started in on the turret and main gun today now that the main hull had all of its goodies completed. The Atak resin set includes two different zim options for the turret, one that's a wider pattern than the hull and one that matches it. I chose to go with the wider pattern as you see that a lot with the Tiger turrets and it has the added bonus of emphasizing another subtle difference with the hybrid hull. After removing the pour plug from the Atak resin mantlet, I added an RB Models MG34 brass MG in place of the kit part. It's just the end of the muzzle and not the whole gun, but it fits perfectly in the opening with the right length protruding as well, so a two-for-one! Step 14 pulls the main gun and mantlet together and the kit includes the option of a solid aluminum barrel or multi-part styrene parts. I opted for the aluminum barrel and used the spring that's in the kit to keep it in the proper length alignment. While it's not very clear in the instructions, part A9 serves as a retaining ring that fits over the end of the barrel inside the breech. That means you've got to think through the assembly steps carefully before committing to glue. The spring actually helps with this as you can push the barrel in further than needed, attach the retaining part, then install the recoil mechanism halves around it to get it all snug. Even though I'm not going to have any of the hatches open, I went ahead and added the recoil guards and basket called out in Step 15 to add some weight to counter the barrel. The muzzle brake is a three part assembly and has a d-shaped opening at the base that is meant to match up with the styrene barrel parts. The metal barrel has a full round mount pin though, so the opening was modified with a round needle file until it would fit correctly. The instructions note this as well so it's not a surprise, just a necessary evil that goes along with the metal barrel option. I added the recoil sleeve to the mantlet as well but the brake has to be left off until after everything is ready to go together, otherwise it can't fit through of course from the back as I deliberately put it together to do. Why, you might ask? I found it easier to do that way to ensure that everything lined up correctly and it gave some added flexibility in ensuring the muzzle brake went on straight. Step 16 pulls the turret halves together and the fit here was decent, I ended up using a small amount of putty at the front join. The mantlet has a tight friction fit into the swivel points and I think that created the slight gap. Not a big deal. I added the interior insert for the escape hatch and had to do some slight sanding and trimming for the Atak hatch part to fit correctly with it, nothing major. Turret roof went on next and the view port was added to the left side only as the right side will get a resin zimmed version later. The pistol port was also left off temporarily as I need to cut an opening for it in the Atak zim panel first. Since F13 didn't have a turret bin, I needed to fill in the spots on the turret rear that were meant to take it. I used some sheet styrene to fill the large rectangular hole combined with some putty and light sanding. While the Atak zim panels are designed to fully cover this area, it's clear in the photos that F13 didn't have zim where the bin attached, so I'll have more trimming to do there too as the next step. Things are moving along on schedule, always a good thing!
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Post by Leon on Feb 4, 2016 18:56:13 GMT -5
More nice progress Bill! Gotta love the look of the aluminum barrel.Wish every kit came with one.
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Post by tonylee-Rest In Peace on Feb 4, 2016 19:01:17 GMT -5
Putting a Lid on it Tex? Tony lee
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 4, 2016 19:35:29 GMT -5
Leon, sadly the days of aluminum barrels included in kits was short-lived...too expensive I guess relative to the kits to do it all the time. Does make a difference on a beast like this one though for sure! Tony, well it is a turtle-top after all, right?
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afvfan
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Bob
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Dec 10, 2012 17:32:38 GMT -5
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Post by afvfan on Feb 4, 2016 19:45:11 GMT -5
Good call adding the shell basket. It'll give you someplace to put the lead if you need any extra counterweight.
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Post by wbill76 on Feb 4, 2016 20:14:17 GMT -5
Good call adding the shell basket. It'll give you someplace to put the lead if you need any extra counterweight. Very true Bob! Fortunately, it won't be needed as the front swivel pins fit very tight.
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Post by armorguy on Feb 5, 2016 4:22:31 GMT -5
Turret works I can't resist ! I like what I see Bill, great update fella !
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SMJmodeler
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Oct 28, 2015 13:55:05 GMT -5
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Post by SMJmodeler on Feb 5, 2016 9:17:50 GMT -5
wbill76: Clean, crisp & tight work there...all with excellent descriptions. I gotta' go freshen-up my tea, you need a cup? One lump or two? Great work Bill. I think the turret without the bin makes for a great look...looking forward to seeing how you execute that.
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 5, 2016 10:48:55 GMT -5
Catching up here... those PE clasps really do look sexy! Great work on the big gun... that's the only reason why I love Tigers!
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