1/32 Academy F/A-18C Hornet - VFA-81 Sunliners

[doogsatx]

After waffling for a bit once I wrapped up the F-104, I've landed on my next 1/32 jet build - Academy's F/A-18C.

I was 11 when Operation Desert Storm went down, and as such the aircraft of that conflict are burned into my mind in a very particular way. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to be the case with decal manufacturers, particularly with the Hornet. The default - even for legacy Hornets - is either OIF schemes or garishly-painted CAG birds. I'm really not a fan of colors over what should be a low-viz scheme, so that leaves the decal options very tight. In the case of the C, I'll be doing a MiG-killer from VFA-81, the Sunliners. This isn't it, but another C from the same squadron, to give a sense of the weathering:



Aftermarket's a bit all over the place:
- Quickboost SJU-17
- Data addendum decal sheet for things like ejection seat stencils
- Airscale IP and placard decals
- Eduard placard set
- Eduard stencil masks
- CAM Decals for the VFA-81 markings
- Rhino seamless intakes and wheels
- Aires exhausts
- Zactomodels AIM-9s
- Wolfpack Mk.84s (x4)
- G-Factor metal landing gear

[doogsatx]

Since I'm going with seamless intakes, I figured a good test-fitting was the right place to start. The Rhino instructions say to install the fuselage sides first, then squeeze the intakes into place. Well, I've only taped them so far, but still, the fit is pretty close to where it needs to be. The outer rim of the intakes is also nice and smooth, so cleaning up any seam should be pretty straightforward.





The Aires exhausts are solid, too. Love the outside/inside design and it should make painting a bit easier.

[doogsatx]

The build order pretty much dictates that I get the intakes sorted first. So...a quick sand to smooth out the insides, then some primer. A bit of Gunze Hemp to provide some very subtle tonal variation, the on to overall Mr. Paint Light Ghost Gray.





Now comes the fun stuff. The gray carries back a distance into the Hornet's intakes before transitioning to white. And the opening isn't all that big, so masking around an irregular curve would be nearly impossible. Solution - slight modification to the latex house paint method.

First...get some paint. Then close up the back of the intake. I found my disposable paint cups fitted perfectly. A little bit of tape, a little bit of liquid mask, and I had enough of a barrier to do the job. No need to miles of tape!





Next...how to get the paint into the intakes without getting paint all over the forward gray portions? I got around this by cutting the bulb off a disposable pipette and shoving the shaft onto a children's medicine syringe (we have tons of them). Reach and precision!



The intakes were loaded up with paint, which was allowed to sit for a few minutes, and then drained.



The morning after...

[Tobi]

The result on the intakes provides the proof you're doing right, though I have to confess I didn't understand exactly how you did it...

[doogsatx]

Mar 21, 2016 12:07:58 GMT -5 Tobi said:

The result on the intakes provides the proof you're doing right, though I have to confess I didn't understand exactly how you did it...

It's one of those that's easier to show/do than it is to describe in words!

Basically - block up the back of the intake. Fill it with latex house paint. Remove the block and let the paint drain out. The latex is thick enough that it'll hold to the intake walls. And it's very good at leveling out. Usually it's a lot easier since you don't have to deal with the camo going so far back into the intakes or the intakes are bigger (like an F-16) and easier to work with. These intakes narrow down pretty substantially, and so getting the paint in there without getting it on the already-painted gray was the challenge.

[martslay]

Remarkably! Also it is useful ))
Thanks!

[doogsatx]

Meanwhile, up front...



I'm pretty impressed with the job Academy's done on the instrument panel (the throttle and stick are similarly nice). The side consoles aren't quite as impressed but still perfectly workable. I've got an SJU-17 sitting here presently, but just learned that this Hornets in this production batch were using SJU-5/6 seats. Wolfpacks are on the way.





Also starting what will be some sill wear. I didn't have the mint-colored primer on hand, but I do have some Mr. Paint Russian Turquoise, and mixed that with some Lemon Gray and Light Ghost Gray to get to a close shade. More to come on this front.



And...Dark Gull Gray in the cockpit. Lots of detail work to come.

[TRM]

Okay...put the Redbull down and step away for the can!! Look at you go!! Things are already looking fantastic!!

[Rick]

Looking great Doogs. A lot of goodness right from the start. I appreciate you sharing your technique in how to paint those tough to get at intakes. In addition to not getting white on the gray, I'm guessing getting the intake positioned to ensure the white is even all the way around is the next watch out.

Rick

[dupes]

Great solution on the intakes. I'd probably just resort to an FOD cover! Hahaha.

Never knew about the minty-green primer on Hornets. Very interesting.

[Deleted]

!!

[doogsatx]

Mar 22, 2016 8:27:39 GMT -5 dupes said:

Never knew about the minty-green primer on Hornets. Very interesting.

I didn't either until I saw that pic. Knew it was a thing on other US aircraft - there are readily available pics of F-22s and F-35s scooting about in it before painting, and I have a few pics where you can see hints of it on F-15s. If you look carefully at the leading edge of the tail fin on this one, you can see it.

[deafpanzer]

You couldn't resist?!?!? LOL Of course count me in too!

[doogsatx]

I realized that I need to paint the main gear bays before I install the lower fuselage sides (and thus the intakes) - so out came the Mr. Paint Insignia White. LOVE this stuff.

[martslay]

Perfectly looks!

[mrversatile]

I love your builds and look forward to more. I had heard of this intake painting method but have never seen it shown. Thanks for sharing.

[doogsatx]

More fun over the weekend - got the intakes installed and started the process of cleaning up the join.







Although I'm not at all happy with how the mesh in front of the intakes looks at the moment - resin casting definitely had some issues here. I'm going to try giving them a panel line wash and seeing if that evens things out. If not I'll be resorting to some PE from the Eduard mesh set.

[wbill76]

By the looks of it, you'll probably have to go with the PE regardless. Shame about the unevenness in the mesh pattern, but I imagine that's one of the limits in the resin casting process.

[jsteinman]

Nice!

[doogsatx]

Mar 28, 2016 14:22:36 GMT -5 wbill76 said:

By the looks of it, you'll probably have to go with the PE regardless. Shame about the unevenness in the mesh pattern, but I imagine that's one of the limits in the resin casting process.

Agreed. If I were them I'd have blanked those sections and then supplied PE mesh to drop in. Just seriously not looking forward to grinding down that much resin (the Eduard instructions call for essentially removing 0.2mm so the PE will sit flush).

[doogsatx]

Intake mesh update! Alas, no pics yet...

1 - the Eduard PE mesh doesn't fit. Too big. Oh well, it's a $5 set and I'll be using several of the other parts elsewhere.

2 - drilling out is a losing proposition. Holes are tiny and I've already snapped a few drill bits.

3 - A black wash did a surprisingly strong job of addressing the shallower holes and evening things out.

My plan now - after I get the rest of the intake-to-fuselage sorted, is to mask around the mesh areas and spray them a slightly darker gray (Dark Ghost Gray perhaps) than the surrounding intake. The mesh on the real thing is subtle as hell anyway, so I think that might be the best option.