GAZ M-20 'Pobeda'('Victory') * FINISHED *

[martslay]

Hi guys!



I satisfy a request of some modellers (at other model forum) and I offer you process of painting of die cast metal car in scale 1/43.

I have decided to share it at our most friendly forum.
 
The model will be part of a diorama. Production for the customer. Primary colors - desire of the customer.

Basis - car GAZ M-20 'Pobeda'('Victory') model from DeAgostini.


So...

Stage 1. Chipping

Step 1. Completely we disassemble model.



Step 2. We cause color of a dark rust - Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown.



Step 3. We paste a piece of a napkin on a ceiling. He will imitate the torn material of an upholstery of salon.



Step 4. We put gloss varnish - Tamiya X-22.

Step 5. We put acrylic fluid AK-089 Heavy Chipping (or analog).



Step 6. We cause color of a light rust - Tamiya XF-68 NATO Brown. Paint dries.



Step 7. The rigid brush moistened in water we peel the top paint coat. We allow model to dry.



Step 8. We put gloss varnish - Tamiya X-22.

Step 9. We put acrylic fluid AK-089 Heavy Chipping (or analog).

Step 10. We cause dark color main paint. In my case the model will be blue. Therefore, I have applied Citadel 21-08 Macragge Blue paint. From this step only paints on a water basis will be applied. It is important.

[Leon]

Nice work so far Martin! I like where this is heading.

[dierk]

Nice SBS Martin! Looking forward to watching this develop.

[dupes]

Indeed! Will keep an eye on this one.

[martslay]

Step 11. The rigid brush moistened in water we peel the top paint coat. We allow model to dry.

Step 12. We put gloss varnish - Tamiya X-22.
Step 13. We put acrylic fluid AK-089 Heavy Chipping (or analog).
Step 14. We cause color main paint. I have applied Citadel 22-13 Alaitoc Blue paint.

Step 15. The rigid brush moistened in water we peel the top paint coat. The model dries.

Step 16. We put gloss varnish - Tamiya X-22.
Step 17. We put acrylic fluid AK-088 Worn Effects (or analog).

Step 18. We cause light color main paint. I have applied Lifecolor LC08 Matt Pale Blue paint.

Step 19. The rigid brush moistened in water we peel the top paint coat. The model dries.

Step 20. We put gloss varnish - Tamiya X-22.
Many thanks fellas!

Step 21. We put acrylic fluid AK-088 Worn Effects (or analog).
Step 22. The last paint coat - mix Citadel 22-13 Alaitoc Blue and Lifecolor UA536 Tornado Interior

Step 23. The rigid brush moistened in water we peel the top paint coat. The model dries.

Completed.

[k1w1]

Thanks for sharing your technique Martin. Nice result.

I have a question. After dismantling the model how do you prepare the body for paint. Do you sand it ?

[martslay]

Jun 9, 2016 8:17:55 GMT -5 k1w1 said:

Thanks for sharing your technique Martin. Nice result.

I have a question. After dismantling the model how do you prepare the body for paint. Do you sand it ?

Many thanks!
Yes, I sanding body.

[Leon]

Great results on the body Martin!

[martslay]

Jun 9, 2016 9:13:57 GMT -5 Leon said:

Great results on the body Martin!

Many thanks Leon! 

[dierk]

Looks great Martin!
Can you tell me how much Wilder sells those sanding sticks for? They look very similar to the ones I use - but I get mine from the make-up depatment.

[martslay]

Jun 9, 2016 16:03:23 GMT -5 dierk said:

Looks great Martin!
Can you tell me how much Wilder sells those sanding sticks for? They look very similar to the ones I use - but I get mine from the make-up depatment.

Many thanks Dierk!



In my shop the price of Sanders 02 (stick) makes 1,5 euros; Sanders 01 (soft whetstone) - 2 euros. It without discount for modellers of MSC. 

[martslay]

Jun 10, 2016 5:33:33 GMT -5 @erik said:

Great looking redo. The photos and steps are really nice to see, something I usually forget to do.

Many thanks erik! Each of us forgets something


Your Daihatsu Midget
it is magnificent!

[martslay]

So, I will continue...

The shortest stage on this model:

Stage 2. Oil.

Step 24. We put points of oil and we pound a brush. Points are put chaotically. I used Wilder LS-03 Medium Yellow, LS-06 Medium Rust, LS-11 Medium Grey and Master-Class Zinc White oil. On this step additional lightenings, blackouts and additional traces of a rust are formed.


Step 25. To begin the following stage of work with a body, it is necessary to collect model partially. I need a type of the thrown old car.


Be continued.

[dierk]

Looking better and better Martin!
How do you achieve the crazed look on the broken windscreen?

[martslay]

Jun 10, 2016 7:57:13 GMT -5 dierk said:

Looking better and better Martin!
How do you achieve the crazed look on the broken windscreen?

Thanks for an assessment.

I have made the broken glass by means of such tool (photo). Just I scratched glass.

[martslay]

We will postpone a body and we will be engaged in salon...

Stage 3. Salon.

Step 26. We cut off some details of salon, we throw out some parts. We need a type of very old salon. We paint salon. In this case Lifecolor LC08 Matt Pale Blue paints (primary color of a body), UA709 Flesh 1 base and UA711 Flesh 1 shadow are used. It is necessary to paint not accurately.





Step 27. We put a glossy varnish of Lifecolor LC73 Gloss Clear. The salon dries 15 minutes.





Step 28. By MIG Abt060 Light Rust paint it is drawn a lot of rust on a floor.





Step 29. We put a glossy varnish of Lifecolor LC73 Gloss Clear. The salon dries 15 minutes.

Step 30. We process salon AK-Interactive liquids (or similar) AK-023 Dark Mud and AK-2039 Leaks&Stains Kerosine. It will allow to receive the thrown type of salon.

[k1w1]

I am enjoying seeing this. Thanks for sharing Martin.

[dierk]

Interior looks disgusting - in a good way!

[wbill76]

Some sharp work going into this beat-up derelict Martin! Nice!

[martslay]

Many thanks guys! 

I will continue...

Step 31. We fill salon with different garbage.


Step 32. We apply dust. I used pigments of Wilder GP-04 Dry Russian Earth, GP-09 Dark European Terrain and GP-10 Road European Clay

[Leon]

Awesome work on the interior and debris Martin! Very nicely done.

[TRM]

Looking great Martin! The worn effect came out well...and love the interior debris!

[martslay]

Many thanks Leon & Todd!



It was necessary to collect model.

Stage 4. Assembly of model.

Step 33. I have connected all parts of model together. I have added a rag from a napkin. The rag is painted by Armypainter WP1134 Soft Tone, WP1137 Green Tone, WP1138 Red Tone and Vallejo 72085 Amarillo Yellow ink. Also I have added chips and a rust on all brilliant details. I have for this purpose applied Vallejo 70995 German Grey and Lifecolor UA711 Flesh 1 shadow paint. I have put an opaque varnish of AK-Interactive AK-190 Matte Varnish.




Stage 5. Base.

Step 34. For a basis I have taken a round support from a beech from Kolobashkin (LINK).

By means of Wilder Takk has limited a working surface. I have drilled openings and I have inserted into them wooden columns.





Step 35. I have made a fence of thin wooden laths. I have painted it with various shades of gray color Lifecolor paints. On a surface I have pasted various grass from Woodland Scenic (very much I love production of this brand).



Step 36. I have cleaned Wilder Takk. I have added a moss from Lifecolor PP05 Luxurian Geer, PP07 Blight Plant and FF03 Gloss Dirty Green Fixer (from the Lifecolor SPG-07 Algae set).

I have added new shades on a fence by means of Armypainter WP1134 Soft Tone, WP1136 Dark Tone and Vallejo 72085 Amarillo Yellow ink.



Step 37. I have added bunches of a remarkable grass of Fredericus-Rex and dry bushes of Woodland Scenics.





Step 38. I have tried on the car on base. It is necessary to add grass bunches, it is a little garbage and the dried-up plants.

[Leon]

Excellent work Martin! The base and car look perfect.

[martslay]

Many thanks Leon!
So, work is finished.I thank all for attention to a subject. Pleasant viewing.
I wait for the customer.

[k1w1]

Thank you for sharing your techniques Martin. I enjoyed this and learnt a few things.

[martslay]

Jun 15, 2016 7:40:52 GMT -5 k1w1 said:

Thank you for sharing your techniques Martin. I enjoyed this and learnt a few things.

Many thanks for response, Peter! I am glad that this subject was useful to you. Soon I begin new work in 1/43 for the customer. It will be the monument to the car established in my city.

[wbill76]

Very cool work all around on this one Martin! Scene fits perfectly together and has lots of neat little details without overwhelming it.

[martslay]

Many thanks Erik and Bill! The customer was satisfied too. 

[mrversatile]

Nice work, Martin. I especially like the interior and the addition of the newspaper, PRAVDA. I believe it means "truth" in Russian. I always liked the irony in that. Someday I will tackle one of these rust buckets in between my showroom cars. Thanks for sharing.