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Post by Tobi on Dec 23, 2022 0:44:07 GMT -5
Darn, the best decals for 1/35 military modeling you could get...
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 23, 2022 9:05:30 GMT -5
I am hoping some buys them up and continues
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 23, 2022 12:30:00 GMT -5
I need some advice. I decided to use the water slide decals that came with the kit, so I put a gloss layer on the entire model using Tamiya X22 Clear Gloss. One of the decals on the turret was slightly out of level so I tried to fix it. That didn't work, so I removed it which left me with this mess. Before I do anything else stupid, I would like your thoughts on how to proceed. Obviously, I need to repaint that area and blend it in. Should I flat coat first? I'm going to use an Archer dry transfer (What I should have done in the first place) to replace that star. This is how we learn, right?
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reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,325
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
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Post by reserve on Dec 23, 2022 15:49:33 GMT -5
Not over long post invasion American tank crews began to paint over the stars on their tanks with OD as it was discovered said stars made dandy aiming points for the German tank/anti-tank gunners...perhaps a direction you'd like to take?
In the future if you need to remove decals and have not yet sealed them get some mean sticky tape like gorilla tape, stick it over the decal, and pull it off. The decal will come with it quite handily.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 23, 2022 16:39:51 GMT -5
Most important, withstand the urge to rush anything. Your paint layers are soft now. Let them cure and then examine the degree of damage. From my experience light sanding and repainting will be sufficient.
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 23, 2022 16:57:20 GMT -5
Thanks! Not a bad idea!!!
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 23, 2022 16:58:09 GMT -5
Most important, withstand the urge to rush anything. Your paint layers are soft now. Let them cure and then esxamine the degree of damage. From my experience light sanding and repainting will be sufficient. Yea, I set it aside and am working on a different model. Learning how to make stowage from Epoxy Sculpt.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 24, 2022 7:17:42 GMT -5
Start carefully sanding with wet paper.
Man, I know exactly how you feel. I made a terrible mess out of the iron cross and serial # on the tail of my Fokker DR.I, when I turned the machine over to finish the other side and accidentally didn't realize the tissue paper I've put underneath for protection(!) was damped with airbrush cleaner...
I managed to rescue it though, so think positive.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Dec 24, 2022 8:06:27 GMT -5
Rolling right along, keep pluggin.
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Post by mustang1989 on Dec 24, 2022 8:08:24 GMT -5
That Gorilla Tape idea does work.....quite well at that. Looking forward to the recovery efforts Brian.
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 24, 2022 11:08:58 GMT -5
Most important, withstand the urge to rush anything. Your paint layers are soft now. Let them cure and then esxamine the degree of damage. From my experience light sanding and repainting will be sufficient. Yea, I set it aside and am working on a different model. Learning how to make stowage from Epoxy Sculpt. Yea I was almost sick to my stomach when I realized that decal had moved while I was working on the other side. Oh well, it happens. If thats the worst thing that happens to me in a day, then it's a pretty darn good day.
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Post by mustang1989 on Dec 24, 2022 12:00:05 GMT -5
That's really about the best attitude to have Brian. Stuff happens and it wouldn't be modeling if we didn't have something go wrong every once in a while.
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Post by Tobi on Dec 24, 2022 16:27:30 GMT -5
The day I build a perfect model is the day I quit the hobby and start something new.
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Post by mustang1989 on Dec 24, 2022 22:58:29 GMT -5
The day I build a perfect model is the day I quit the hobby and start something new. I hear ya loud n' clear on that Tobi. There's a blem (or two or three....etc) somewhere in every one I build. I just try to make 'em a little fewer and fewer for the next builds.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Dec 31, 2022 11:10:30 GMT -5
Ain'tch yall glad we'll never arrive. Good reason to have goals, then more goals, then more goals. It keeps the low-mojo bug away, IMHO
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Prop Duster
Full Member
Member since: January 2013
just learned to spell CA. workin' on PE now.
Posts: 242
Jan 27, 2013 19:17:30 GMT -5
Jan 27, 2013 19:17:30 GMT -5
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Post by Prop Duster on Jan 1, 2023 16:45:51 GMT -5
OK gotta admit when I clicked on the "You have new forum notifications." link to this forum I was blithely reading and enjoying the first several posts. Then I came to the daughter/grandkids pictures-OK cute kids yadayada and hit the statement about son in law being 101 Airborne in Afghanistan----wait WHAT? looked at the dates and did a So being the bright spark I am, I asked me, why the New Notice? Finally figured that all out and I have got to say this is one of the coolest forum posts I have ever seen, because of the sheer amount of information passed along. I may now have to try an armor clanky thing, sooner than I would have thought. p.s. This is exactly why Modelers Social Club is worth the effort to revive. Stepping down from my soap box and wishing all a Happy New Year
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Post by chromdome35 on Jan 1, 2023 16:53:12 GMT -5
p.s. This is exactly why Modelers Social Club is worth the effort to revive I could not agree with you more. It is this type of thread that makes this forum special. I appreciate all of you!
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Whiterook
Full Member
Member since: March 2013
Posts: 837
Mar 13, 2013 15:29:19 GMT -5
Mar 13, 2013 15:29:19 GMT -5
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Post by Whiterook on Feb 15, 2023 20:03:45 GMT -5
Tamiya Kit number 35250 - M4A3 w 75mm gun. I've had to put down modeling almost 4 years ago but now I'm back. I have a sweet Academy M18 Hellcat with a ton of AM that I was in the process of building when life took me away from the bench. Before I restart that build, I thought I'd do something a bit easier first to clear the cobwebs out. I had this M4A3 in my stash that is just the ticket for a refresher. I've seen several build threads on the forums related to this tank and I don't even begin to pretend that I can match the quality of them. This kit is certainly not the pinnacle of Sherman kits, there are many problems with it. I think trying to fix some of those issues will be a good warm up. The first challenge is the fitment of the front hull onto the body pan. The front hull piece sticks forward about 1mm beyond the driver covers. The drive covers themselves have a weird ear sticking off of them that looks like it's intended to cover one of the gaping holes. I'm in the process of filling in the holes, smoothing down the overlap and generally making the front presentable. The front fenders on the body are too long and pronounced to join together correctly with the lower hull and have to be sanded down to get a good fit. Probably the biggest issue with the kit are the open sides. You can look down through the turret and into the suspension. I'll be filling those in with sheet styrene. The metal you see in body pan in the 1st picture is a thin piece of scrap I had laying around. I epoxy'd it to the base which gives the model some heft, it also servers the purpose of allowing me to mount a magnet in my panavise and providing a solid hold on the model so I can get it up off the work bench and make it easier to work on. So, OMG, I didn’t even make it past Post #1 and I’m like… “He’s Merlin!” — “…he’s a frickin’ Wizard!!!” Metal scrap in the bodypan…OK…that’s brilliant! I’ve had to weight some kits down, most notably on jets to keep the nose heavy, but to magnetize to a panavice (I didn’t even know those existed, or what they do) be witchery (and a damned fine idea!). I just want to mention to you that, one of the things I truly admire and appreciate from builders like you is, learning the actual parts. “Bodypan”. “Drive cover”. It’s that knowledge of the subject being modeled that helps someone like me learn what the heck to call stuff (‘…square thingie‘ doesn’t sound nearly as cool….or accurate…OK, maybe a little accurate but… never mind). Anyway, thank you for that attention to writing. Love that tool chest in your workshop, BTW…looks well used! I’ve not seen anyone else picture one in their workshop…I have a new version and Love it! And where the hell did you find a tweezer butcher block holder? I’m telling you people… he’s not from this world! OK….back to post #2. I’ll behave now (PS. No I won’t )
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Whiterook
Full Member
Member since: March 2013
Posts: 837
Mar 13, 2013 15:29:19 GMT -5
Mar 13, 2013 15:29:19 GMT -5
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Post by Whiterook on Feb 15, 2023 21:00:35 GMT -5
WOW, made it through this whole thread and what a ride! Great modeling CD…wonderful advice…great inspiration! Love the subject. I was super intrigued by the use of rod for the weld, and softening it down with Tamiya light, then shaping it…very cool!
I agree with the comment by another modeler on, the thickness of things like replaced handrails doesn’t have to be sized to spec, but have the right *look*.
Oil washes are an area I need to improve on so, I appreciate the explanation of your use.
Great build! I’m glad you came back to it… believe me, I can relate!
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Post by chromdome35 on Feb 15, 2023 21:57:34 GMT -5
Metal scrap in the bodypan…OK…that’s brilliant! I’ve had to weight some kits down, most notably on jets to keep the nose heavy, but to magnetize to a panavice (I didn’t even know those existed, or what they do) be witchery (and a damned fine idea!). I just want to mention to you that, one of the things I truly admire and appreciate from builders like you is, learning the actual parts. “Bodypan”. “Drive cover”. It’s that knowledge of the subject being modeled that helps someone like me learn what the heck to call stuff (‘…square thingie‘ doesn’t sound nearly as cool….or accurate…OK, maybe a little accurate but… never mind). Anyway, thank you for that attention to writing. Love that tool chest in your workshop, BTW…looks well used! I’ve not seen anyone else picture one in their workshop…I have a new version and Love it! And where the hell did you find a tweezer butcher block holder? I’m telling you people… he’s not from this world! OK….back to post #2. I’ll behave now (PS. No I won’t ) Thank you! The tool chest is an old vintage one I found in an antique store. I'm not using it on my bench at the moment, but I still have it and will reintegrate it in the next iteration of my workspace. I have no idea where I got that tweezer butcher block, I've had it for a LONG time. I use it to hold my most commonly used tools (2 pairs of tweezers, a right-angle pick, a hobby knife, and my sprue clippers). The magnet in the Panavise works ok, but it doesn't hold the model firmly, if you push too hard it will move.
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