Sanding Technique Question

[chromdome35]

This might seem rudimentary to some, but it's a question that has been bouncing around in the cavernous space between my ears.

I own quite a few different sanding tools, Sticks (Large and small), straws, sheets in various grits ranging from 80 up through 12000. Some water proof and some not.

What I seem to resort to when sanding is using dry sandpaper starting with a grit around 200, then progressing to 400, then finishing with 600 to 800.

How do you guys typically sand? What progression of grit and when should you use wet vs. dry paper?

[joelsmith]

CD, it depends on the finish you are trying to duplicate. When I'm sanding down puttied knock out pin marks, I start with 240 grit dry, then 320 dry, finishing with 600 wet. I also use sanding boards from Flexi-File the majority of the time. I find that the board will keep the surface flat. For round objects that have mold lines, I use the Flexi-File Device with the replaceable plastic strips. I start by scraping the seam/mold line with the back of a #11 X-acto blade, then sand with 320 dry, and finish with 600 wet. these steps are for a smooth finish. For a rough finish such as rolled homogenous armor, use 320 dry and finish with Mr Surfacer 500 stippled on with a short bristled brush. Hope this explains every thing to your satisfaction. Talk more soon, Joel.

[jpc1968]

Yeah what he said

[plasticjunkie]

I never wet sand the models and do not use sand paper either. I have a selection of padded sanding sticks ranging from coarse to xtra fine to polishing quality. They are thin and can get into most tight spaces and are easy to manipulate. I also have some padded sanding/polishing boards from places like Walmart, Target and even the Dollar Store. These boards have many grits including polishing ones and come in handy when dealing with larger areas. I also have polishing/sanding pads ranging from 600 up to 12,000 range.

[Tobi]

For sand paper I use exclusively Tamiya, reaching from 400 to 1000, though I believe their grits are generally finer than what you get in the home improvement store. These can be use dry and wet.

My second tool of choice are flex-i-file sanding sticks, most of the time coarse and medium are totally sufficient for my tank models. On an aircraft canopy you will need finer grits, of course.

Last but not least is also your sanding technique! If you want to sand a large flat area for example, put the sanding paper flat on your desk, take the part in your hand and then describe an "8" while sanding and also gently rotate the part. With this trick you avoid one sided abrasion resulting from the natural shift of your hand/arm.

[jsteinman]

Just to monkey things up a bit, for run of the mill clean up and such I usually start with a Tiny bastard file, then go to 400 grit stick and finish with superfine steel wool if needed.

[chromdome35]

Jan 17, 2017 11:27:18 GMT -5 jsteinman said:

Just to monkey things up a bit, for run of the mill clean up and such I usually start with a Tiny bastard file, then go to 400 grit stick and finish with superfine steel wool if needed.

What grade of Steel Wool do you use, or does it matter?

[jsteinman]

Jan 17, 2017 12:13:20 GMT -5 chromdome35 said:

Jan 17, 2017 11:27:18 GMT -5 jsteinman said:

Just to monkey things up a bit, for run of the mill clean up and such I usually start with a Tiny bastard file, then go to 400 grit stick and finish with superfine steel wool if needed.

What grade of Steel Wool do you use, or does it matter?

This one.  www.walmart.com/ip/Rhodes-American-Grade-0000-Steel-Wool/17300262?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1060&adid=22222222227025378627&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80418217809&wl4=pla-136040754729&wl5=9001834&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112550001&wl11=online&wl12=17300262&wl13=&veh=sem

[vindicareassassin]

In my scale anything to course can leave deep, unsightly, scratches,.... well any scale really, so I generally use a razor blade to cut and scrape as much as possible away, then use 400 grade wet and dry, finish off using nail buffing and polishing sticks cut to size.

[Whiterook]

I use a foam fingernail file (course side/fine side)   It’s pink. I like pink.

...that said, the best one I’ve used was a Squadron one I got at an IPMS show, mainly ‘cause it’s angled. I have a set of Flex I-files, which are hermetically sealed in their blister pack! Call me a heathen but, if it can be bought in the Target cosmetic isle, it’s good enough for me.

[Tobi]

In fact I'd bet that's where some model companies got their stuff from, printed their logo on and resold them for the triple price.

[tcoat]

I have many many sanding sticks, pads and paper. Some of them are $10 each special Squadron ones.

What I use 99% of the time are Dollar Store fingernail ones from the beauty section.



These ones are the BEST!

[chromdome35]

I have decided that I'm a sanding stick whore. I can't resist the things.

I have so many different ones, my grandkids won't ever run out of them.

I really like the Infini branded ones but I'm also very partial to the types made out of photo etch that you can bend into needed shapes. Then you just adhere your choice of adhesive-backed sandpaper in the grit you need.

[tcoat]

I am going automated!

[keavdog]

I like the testors sanding films or whoever makes them now. I do like a sanding stick and flexi-files are invaluable for aircraft. And I'm not afraid to go with the big rocks first to cut down the issues. Thing is being able to polish/rescribe allows a lot of flexibility.

[chromdome35]

Yea the testors sanding films have been a staple for me for wet sanding. When I need to use a film style surface, they are my pick.

[chromdome35]

Apr 3, 2023 18:11:59 GMT -5 tcoat said:

I am going automated!

Ok, that made me laugh!

[jeaton01]

In some applications I use machinists files also. Even a mill bastard, but fine files leave fewer scratches than sandpaper.

[chromdome35]

I have a few sizes / types of files including an 8" mill bastard file, it's great for removing a lot of material but I have grown to love my Dispiae Electric Sanding Pen with a carbide cutting burr. You can quickly remove surface moldings with little to no damage to the part you are removing the molding from. It doesn't come close to replacing a proper rotary tool, but its small, lightweight, and easy to control.

www.dspiae.com/en/a/PRODUCTS/PRODUCTSD/82.html



Video

[tcoat]

Apr 4, 2023 20:57:34 GMT -5 chromdome35 said:

I have a few sizes / types of files including an 8" mill bastard file, it's great for removing a lot of material but I have grown to love my Dispiae Electric Sanding Pen with a carbide cutting burr. You can quickly remove surface moldings with little to no damage to the part you are removing the molding from. It doesn't come close to replacing a proper rotary tool, but its small, lightweight, and easy to control.

www.dspiae.com/en/a/PRODUCTS/PRODUCTSD/82.html



Video
 

I need one of these before I start my big '58 Nomad resin conversion project. The Dremel is OK for bigger tasks but this may be the perfect tool for what I have to do.

[themongoose]

Only difference of any significance for my style is that i wet sand exclusively from 400 grit up. That’s the standard approach for 1:1 scale automotive and ive held to that for models. To me it makes a difference. Paper doesn’t gummup, lasts longer, and i get less random deep grooves in the plastic as a result.

[armornutii]

   I'm with PJ, padded squares ranging from 1200- 8000, also the thin cheap sticks that are flexable, usually whatever I grab....popular brand.
      I also don't wet sand, havent got water to work ratio down and the wife bitches when I'm in the shower for 3hrs grumbling about the seam not going away.
     With a good selection of self leveling, minor scratch filling primers available, unless it is a super shiny auto finish or a canopy 6000 is probably about as fine as needed. Just my opinion.

[chromdome35]

Jul 15, 2023 9:53:32 GMT -5 armornutii said:

I also don't wet sand, havent got water to work ratio down and the wife bitches when I'm in the shower for 3hrs grumbling about the seam not going away.

LOL, that made me laugh!

[chromdome35]

After a bench session that involves sanding, I take a moment and clean my sanding sticks using water and a toothbrush to brush off the sanding residue. I then follow that up with this magical thing called an abrasive cleaning stick. These come in all shapes and sizes, one like I've listed below will probably last the rest of your life.

Abrasive Cleaning Stick



Using this method restores the sanding utensil to almost new. Highly recommended.

[eaglecash867]

One thing I tried that I find really useful for getting rid of sprue attachment points on round parts are these things:

www.amazon.com/Infini-3-Piece-Clear-System-Small/dp/B091B9SWKL

They're tempered glass with the abrasive surface etched into them.  You can remove those sprue attachment points and leave a smooth, polished spot that looks just like the rest of the plastic really easily and quickly with these.  I usually just use the Fine and Super Fine grits because those are enough for most jobs.  They're even surprisingly easy to handle when you have huge hands like I do.  They clean up easily with a cheap electric toothbrush and a couple blasts of canned air.

For everything else, I use sanding twigs and MicroMesh sticks and pads.  About the only time I wet sand is when I'm taking care of seams and gaps.  I use Gorilla CA as my filler, and after that has cured overnight, I scribble along the glue line with a black Sharpie to act as a leveling indicator.  Then I just wet sand with MicroMesh from 1500 to 12000 until all of the black Sharpie is gone.  Usually makes the seam or gap disappear on the first try, and the sanding work is actually pretty quick and easy.

[Medicman71]

I started using Ammo's sanding sticks and I love them!! I've gotten the Infini sanding sticks too but haven't used them yet.

[buddho]

I usually use 120, 240 and 320 garnet paper for assembling, and use 240, 400 and 600 wet and dry for paint prep. I hardly ever do cars or shiny things so never have to get up to the micromesh mesh stuff. I have a set of riffler and tungsten carbide files for taking off material quickly.

[chromdome35]

I bought these from Amazon, similar to Infini or Dspiae's glass sanding files.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083W67GZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



The black-tinted one has a lower grit than the clear one. Both work great.

I also have these 3 glass files from dspiae

Dspiae Siren ultimate precision glass File


Ultimate Precision Files #10000#12000


My most used sanding sticks are in this order: 1)Infini Ultra Precision sticks, 2) Ultimate Thinny Sticks, and the Dspiae glass sticks.

When I need a soft sanding stick I will almost always grab the Inifni Softback stick

I'm a sanding stick whore, I can't resist buying them. I have a lot. Is there an intervention group?

[tcoat]

[stikpusher]

Yes, there are plenty of beauty products that can be incorporated into our hobby. I use make up brushes to apply pigments on my armor models…. make up applicators work great for positioning of decals… and I have a nail polish mixing machine that works great for getting those cursed squeeze dropper bottles of paint such as Vallejo and AK Interactive mixed properly.