WHO DOES THIS!!!!!??????

[fhvn4d]

Ok, so like a year or two ago, I was that guy who would strongly decree, " Ill never buy that aftermarket stuff, turned barrels and stuff. The kit goes together good enough"......... and in the last year, I have truly eaten my words...... anybody else go crazy with PE, bending, AM Barrels and such?

[Leon]

Have'nt done the AM guns yet! Did do some AM PE for a German HT awhile back.

[chromdome35]

I'm guilty, but I justify it by saying it makes a more accurate model.

[John Everett]

The plastic parts included with the kit are fine. You were correct in the past. Your desire to make something better than what came before is what's changed. You got bored with the same old same old and have discovered a better way.

Hate figures? Good. Now do one or two. Do they make you feel better about your models? Good. build more figures. If not, then don't.

Metal and resin add-ons are almost unlimited in scope. It just depends on where you find enjoyment in spending the time and money.

Model on, Bro. Model on.

[dierk]

Hi, my name is Dierk and I'm an AM whore... Don't think there's more than one or two kits in my stash without AM goodies.

[Tojo72]

That's good work there,but I usually don't go crazy,some PE screens,a couple of resin pieces,I have a KT with metal fenders I'm going to try,definitely used AM tracks and stowage,answer a gun tube here and there.But I normally stick to almost OOB

[fhvn4d]

Feb 4, 2017 23:47:40 GMT -5 John Everett said:

The plastic parts included with the kit are fine. You were correct in the past. Your desire to make something better than what came before is what's changed. You got bored with the same old same old and have discovered a better way.

Hate figures? Good. Now do one or two. Do they make you feel better about your models? Good. build more figures. If not, then don't.

Metal and resin add-ons are almost unlimited in scope. It just depends on where you find enjoyment in spending the time and money.

Model on, Bro. Model on.

Thats gotta be some of the best advice I have gotten on a forum......ever. !@!

[mrversatile]

I use AM where I think it will be needed just because of it's visibility or its importance of scale like ship pieces, which are a requirement. More and more I have forgone AM if I can reasonably represent the pieces with kit parts. The question I ask myself when considering is: "If I was viewing the finished model would I really notice the difference?" If the answer is "NO" then I don't go in that direction. More is not always better and I believe that the build and finishing quality will win out over all else.

[deafpanzer]

I swear this... I can't live without aftermarket barrels and photo etch sets! LOL

[Steve Zuleski]

Welcome to the world of "Fiddly Bits." The carpet monster usually has a say every now and again when I work with these little parts, lol.

[jsteinman]

Been doing it for years!

[afvfan]

PE is hit or miss, depending on how detailed I'm trying to get. Main gun tubes are a different story. The cost of a metal replacement is more than worth the time and effort for me to deseam a barrel (while keeping it round and not losing details).

[fhvn4d]

while I have alot of peoples attention on this topic... what do you all use to clean it up once its on the model so that acrylic paints will stick well

[legend]

Heres some etch for ya!!

bill

[jsteinman]

Feb 6, 2017 12:28:50 GMT -5 fhvn4d said:

while I have alot of peoples attention on this topic... what do you all use to clean it up once its on the model so that acrylic paints will stick well

I prime with AK or MIG AMMO primers.

[jpc1968]

I had to order my first aftermarket parts over the weekend. I dropped my bf109 and broke the guns close to the control panel so I had to order brass barrels

[John Everett]

If there are a lot of fragile things glued to the model, I will usually skip the cleaning portion and use a solvent based primer which tends to perform better on a slightly oily surface.

If you do decide to wash it prior to painting, a soft, large sized paintbrush and slightly soapy warm water will usually avoid damage to PE.

[legend]

The Hellcat etch kit is a brain teaser for sure! The engine is moulded in styrene and is pretty bad so I just used the crankcase so I could mount the prop.

Bill

[Steve Zuleski]

Feb 7, 2017 16:43:21 GMT -5 legend said:

The Hellcat etch kit is a brain teaser for sure! The engine is moulded in styrene and is pretty bad so I just used the crankcase so I could mount the prop.

Bill

At any rate that must have been a brain twister!


Yep, I don't bother cleaning the brass either, just Floquil primer and it's a go.

[dierk]

Feb 6, 2017 12:28:50 GMT -5 fhvn4d said:

while I have alot of peoples attention on this topic... what do you all use to clean it up once its on the model so that acrylic paints will stick well

I brush Mr. Metal Primer on all the PE before ABing the model with Vallejo primer.

[willc453]

Thru the years, I've bought some pe stuff, but never used most of it. Tried a few times, had trouble getting it to bend/fit. Just started buying resin stuff for 1/35th scale figures and it's amazing in the amount of detail you now get. Considering the amount of time you'd have to put into making a master, then a mold, etc., it's cheaper and a lot easier to just buy it. A few weeks ago, got the Black Dog British/Canadian military & civilian backpacks that will supply me for about 30-40 figures. Then there's Live Resin and Aber. As for pe, hope to start making my own some time this year. There's a YouTube video by Plasmo(?)in how to do this 2 different ways. Looking at not only making iron gates/fences, but why not window frames? As thin as the brass is, you could put a piece of clear plastic between 2 of them to represent glass with the window open or closed. Next year, going for a 3D printer and maybe scanner.
 

[sturmbird]

looking at the two shotguns, I think we need a good quality Winchester 97 trench gun complete with bayonet! Also a Winchester Mod. 12, and a Savage Mod. 25 shotgun. Then to complete the list; how about a High Standard combat shotgun complete with hand guard and bayonet.

The 97 and the High Standard look a lot alike, but are far different. The Savage 25 was built as a cheap replacement for the Mod.12 and the Remington pump. It was in the end better. The barrel made for buck shot, and the stock was cut for a quick shot in the combat mode. Only used in Vietnam. I've used all of them, and prefer the 97 and the Savage.
gary

[moramarth]

I think we need a good quality Winchester 97 trench gun complete with bayonet!

ICM have a Winchester M1897 Trench Gun with its bayonet attached in their WW1 U.S. Weapons frame.  The weapons set has two identical frames:
www.icm.com.ua/news/411-wwi-us-infantry-weapon-and-equipment.html
but if you only need one shotgun you can buy either of their WW1 U.S. Infantry sets:
www.icm.com.ua/news/417-us-infantry-1917-4-figures.html
www.icm.com.ua/news/461-us-infantry-1918-4-figures-100-new-molds.html
and still have all you need (and more) for a diorama...

Regards,

M

[willc453]

moramarth, thanks for the links. Still learning who's got what in way of weapons other than Tamiya, Italeri and Heller. Can use almost everything there for zombie/apocalypse type dioramas especially those weapons with toad stickers on 'em. Just bought 2 of 'em on Ebay using 1/35 ICM 35688 for my search. Seller doesn't list number available, only limited supply which was another reason for buying 2 at $16.81 each w/free shipping.