6252 for 2?

Alright, time for another update....

I slogged through steps 6 - 8 in the last couple days. One thing that I found frustrating with the DML instructions (I know, shocker, right) is that they often will show how pieces are applied to the hull, but the orientation of the hull is weird. For example, most of the drawings for attaching things to the back plate have the hull upside down. It kept throwing me, because I would orient my piece like it was in the drawing, line it up and think, "This ain't right...".

Another thing... jesus, were they trying to recreate EVERY piece on the real vehicle? Look, I like detail as much as the next guy, but in these kits, DML kind of went to extremes. Case in point:

This is the jack. I have not glued the PE straps in their final position yet, but this jack. JUST the jack, has seven pieces. If you add in the PE parts, that brings it up to 15! Fifteen parts? For a JACK??? I'd expect the damn thing to work after that! (By the way, yes, I did straighten up the handle)



Same is true of the bow machine gun. The gun is seven pieces, plus all the parts to mount it to the hull. It's a great little piece, but it will be all but invisible once it's done.





By the way, included in the parts for the gun is a bag (I assume it caught the disintegrating links, since it is really too small for brass). DML's instructions have a vague arrow - "Just stick it right here..." but there is no clear attachment point. Anyone have insight on where this might go?

Other work was done on the front plate and the engine deck hatch. Nothing too noteworthy here except to say that DML DOES allow you to build the armored louvres so they move, which, I could not resist doing.





And, lastly, I replaced the handles on the engine hatch with wire ones:



So, that is where I currently stand.

Dupes swears to me that he has pictures to post and data to do it with! Keep your fingers crossed!

Huh,

Well,look at that. Thanks Bill!

The DML instructions aren't even CLOSE on that!

Bill

Thanks again for linking this.

I just re-read your build up and it confirmed something I realized last night. The DML instructions make no sense, in terms of build order. Like you, I used part G19 for the glacias plate in step 7. Unlike you, I didn't think to look ahead to step 11.

Sooooo... last night I had to pry the glacias plate off because I realized there is NO WAY to fit the upper deck if that glacias is glued in place.

Oi....

Glad you were able to fix it Boyd, Dragon's instructions on this kit, in particular, require a lot of study as I recall.

No smoking yet on my end...but you never know when I'll build up a head of steam. Got another build night this Thursday. Will get up some pics over the holiday - I actually get most of a day off!

A day late, so sue me. Hahaha. I believe I have finally figured out Imgur, and have pics that will show up!

After working on a bunch of road wheels one night and the suspension the night after, I opted to branch out a bit and move to the turret. Wanted to get to play around with the pre-formed smoke grenade launchers...was not disappointed! "Dumbo" has got his ears on.





Part of the decision to move above the deck was trying to figure out how to paint the interior engine bits and then be able to paint the hull without screwing up said engine. Boyd - did you figure anything out? Bill - remember what you did?

Looking good Dupes! I went back and looked at my build log to refresh my memory. At the time I didn't bother with painting/masking the engine components as they disappear completely from view once the rear deck hatches are in place. If you're planning to have one of the deck hatches posed open, then that presents a different scenario altogether!

Could always just shoot some Flat Black onto the components and compartment beforehand...especially if you're thinking about what might happen at a contest with a 'penlight' test.

Shoot some primer and take some pics through the vents!

Hey guys

Sorry for the lag, but 4th of July week was a bit hectic and I'm just getting my feet back under me.

I have made some progress on 6252. Tonight I worked mostly on the gun and some of the turret. I had to shoot some primer in the inner hull and the turret as well (I'll explain why shortly).

So most of what I did tonight was the main gun. I had done a bit of work on it a few nights ago, but wanted to finish it up tonight. DML did a really nice job with some of the detail on this, including a spring so you could have "recoil effect" if you wanted it. I realized, as I dry fit everything, that the piece that actually holds the metal barrel to the gun breech (A9) was upside down in the instructions. I was having a heck of a time with it, then I flipped it over and it was smooth sailing.

I actually think this assembly represents a bit of the Jekyll and Hyde nature of this kit. DML really pulled out all the stops for this one.... except where they didn't. So, the gun really does have some amazing detail. And yet, where the breech block should be there is nothing. Granted, it would be really difficult to see, but so is most of the detail on the gun, so, what the heck??



In his build of 6252, wbill commented on the coax mg and how the muzzle was solid. I didn't feel like trying to hollow it out, so I opted for a brass one:



Once all is said and done, the gun builds up quite nicely, even without the breech block although I will echo Bill's comments in his build log... the muzzle of this gun is just dumb. DML goes to all the trouble of providing a metal barrel, and then the three pieces of the muzzle break have so many sprue attachments, it is a PITA to get it looking nice:



I am glad I went with the brass MG. I think it looks pretty good:



On other thing DML does (on the P sprue) is to give you two sets of casting numbers. Now, I'll be honest, I read Bill's log and he noted how the tank he was building had numbers such and such yada yada.... the thing is, none of the research I have done is that specific so I have no idea what an accurate casting number would be. BUT,I really wanted to use some, just because. Therefore, I compromised. I chose the number 48... not because I think it is even remotely accurate, but because that is how old I am right now. So, at least, I'll always remember when I built this tank.



And last but not least (and the whole reason I needed to spray some primer on the interior) is that I have decided I need to have a couple open hatches. DML did provide some really nice detail on the hatch interiors and I hate to lose it all, so, open hatches it will be.... but, rather than struggle to provide interior details, I'm going with the crew option. Two figures for two open hatches, sourced from a couple of figure sets, and one Archer figure that may or may not be standing next to the tank:

FIGURES? Crikey!

That brass barrel does look really good. I'm trying to stick with OOB on this one though, so drilling was my only option.

Need to upload some more pics - I've got a good chunk of the hull done. Have run into an interesting conundrum that maybe you or Bill can help me solve re: the PE front fenders.

What is the conundrum with the fenders?

Sorry guys - work is a zoo for me in the summer...I always forget how bad. Haven't even turned my laptop on in three days!

Re: the fenders. There are two front-plate options. One with the fenders attached, one without (might be part P8?). In my kit, the one without snapped right into place, while the one with did not. You can guess which one I went with! That means that I need to use the PE pieces for the front fenders. That's fine. The issue is that I don't see a provision for hinges in either plastic or PE? The alternate piece has them molded on...not seeing anything on all of the sprues in the kit, and the instructions tell me nothing.

Will upload a pic when (if?) I get a chance to show you what I mean!

I believe you're right, Bill. This begs the question - what the F is part P8 for, then? There's nothing in the instructions indicating that using that part requires modification of other parts (believe me, I checked!). And, of course, I find out now that there's no parts to add to this one to complete the assembly.

I'm going to have to try to saw down G19 and then see if there's any way to attach it to P8 with any sort of positive fit...might need to brace it underneath somehow.