AFV Club Scorpion Build

[chromdome35]

Jan 7, 2023 12:13:19 GMT -5 Steve Zuleski said:

Try some OPR for fading the center panels, build up the contrast a tad. Looking good so far.

Steve, I want to be sure I understand what your suggesting.

I should use oil paints to lighten the center of the panels, blending into the darker surrounding areas?

I'm very unknowledgeable about mixing oils together to get a light shade in the correct color, any good starting point you could recommend? I'm assuming it would be a lighter brown color such as raw sienna mixed with white and yellow ochre?

[Steve Zuleski]

I opened a can of worms, sorry, Bro. This takes a bit of explanation and can be better served by watching a few vids.

But, here's an article from Mike himself;
www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html

[chromdome35]

GREAT article, thank you!

I have his books Tank Art 3 & 4 on the way based on your guy's recommendation. Supposedly Tank Art 2 is in reprint; however, based on some things I've seen around the internet, it's been in that stage for a while. If it is republished I'll it up, but that book is going for crazy dollars on the internet (I've seen people asking up to $400 for it on Ebay)

[chromdome35]

Here is my first attempt at OPR, I've quickly discovered that it's really not that hard to do, but hard to do well.

[chromdome35]

Close to calling this one done.

A couple of firsts on this one:
First attempt at OPR
First hand-made stowage using epoxy sculpt

My goal was to portray a tank that was out on patrol in the middle east. No real chipping, just dusty and sandy.

Overall I'm pleased with this one, the decal work can definitely be improved.

I would appreciate your comments and critiques.

[Tobi]

The first impression is excellent Brian, for a detailed review the picture samples are too small, even if I enlarge them by right mouse click and showing in new tab. Chipping is not always necessary.

A hint for model photography: your pictures are lacking depth of field. There is always just one spot properly focused and the rest of the tank is blurry. To overcome this you need to adjust your camera to an aperture of F11 at least, and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. You will need a stand to prevent camera shake and using the timed release is recommended.

[mustang1989]

Jan 22, 2023 6:10:05 GMT -5 Tobi said:

The first impression is excellent Brian, for a detailed review the picture samples are too small, even if I enlarge them by right mouse click and showing in new tab. Chipping is not always necessary.

A hint for model photography: your pictures are lacking depth of field. There is always just one spot properly focused and the rest of the tank is blurry. To overcome this you need to adjust your camera to an aperture of F11 at least, and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. You will need a stand to prevent camera shake and using the timed release is recommended.

From my standpoint, I can only look on in awe of what I'm seeing but Tobi's got the experience needed to give pointers in camera usage (which I'm definitely going to be heeding because I have the same problem with my pics) and for techniques in this genre of modeling.

You armor guys have got it goin' ON!! 

[chromdome35]

Thank you!

Yes, I agree the depth of field is bad. I will get out my real camera and take some pics later today.

[chromdome35]

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

[chromdome35]

Tobi, here are higher resolutions pictures

My personal critique:
1) The decals are silvery
2) The rear view mirrors are missing and one of the mounting spots on the front left hood isn't filled it.
3) The joining of the tracks (Bottom center) is crappy. The soft rubber connectors tore up and I ended up having to superglue the tracks on.
4) The front left drive wheel, the track isn't seated properly.
5) The rear lights in the middle hull area aren't painted.
6) Black paint on the gun barrel needs touchup

[Tobi]

Overall a fine job, you already identified spots you are not happy with.

Pity 'bout the tracks and sprocket wheel, vinyl tracks and me are just no friends therefore.
Regarding the decals, did you apply them without gloss underneath? On decals with clear geometric lines, cutting back the film to the print with a sharp blade is a good idea.

My remarks:
You did a fine job catching the dusty appearance through OPR, without overdoing.
Also the amount of grime on the tank is not exaggerated and looks just right to me.
I already said before I like your muffler grating very much!
Also your application of pigments on the running gear and lower hull is very nice.

Pay a little more attention to smaller details, like removing mold seams and sink marks from tool handles and such.
It seems there are some brush hairs sticking to the surface of the model?
The final exhaust pipe could use some soot.
The inner mudflaps and track fender undersides are fairly clean compared to the hull sides.
With a little glass effect the periscopes would look even better. A little inverted light technique might work. You could paint a little blue or green (or which color you deem appropriate) in the lower third of the glass part and then blend it in to the top with the black.

[chromdome35]

Thank you for the feedback, can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

I will work on those spots you pointed out. We have 4 dogs (2 Great Pyrenees which are bad shedders) and 4 cats, hair is a constant battle. So that would be my guess as to the source.

I did not gloss the model before I applied the decals.

[Tobi]

Jan 22, 2023 15:09:22 GMT -5 chromdome35 said:

I did not gloss the model before I applied the decals.

That's probably the reason for the silvering.

4 cats? I would die from allergy! 

[chromdome35]

Yes, most likely.

Lessons learned to be applied going forward.

[rbaer]

That's a fine effort, no matter the issues. One piece tracks can be difficult to hide the join on, and like Tobi mentioned, are best replaced in most cases. Personally I have a few models that I prefer one-piece tracks on, especially when they're made from the more recently used glue-able plastic and represent "live" tracks. Regarding the decals: I rarely gloss before applying them, but make sure I apply them over a very clean surface and I use lots of decal solvent to make sure they conform to the surface and have no air bubbles underneath them. I also trim film as much as possible. Since so many decals are slightly glossy when dry, I always use a flat coat over them before I start weathering. That seems to work well, and even minimizes or eliminates a visible "edge" that may show up during weathering.

[chromdome35]

Jan 23, 2023 9:44:25 GMT -5 rbaer said:

That's a fine effort, no matter the issues. One piece tracks can be difficult to hide the join on, and like Tobi mentioned, are best replaced in most cases. Personally I have a few models that I prefer one-piece tracks on, especially when they're made from the more recently used glue-able plastic and represent "live" tracks. Regarding the decals: I rarely gloss before applying them, but make sure I apply them over a very clean surface and I use lots of decal solvent to make sure they conform to the surface and have no air bubbles underneath them. I also trim film as much as possible. Since so many decals are slightly glossy when dry, I always use a flat coat over them before I start weathering. That seems to work well, and even minimizes or eliminates a visible "edge" that may show up during weathering.

Thank you!

On the decals, I did use Micro Set & Micro Sol on all of the decals, then flat coated the model afterward.

[rbaer]

I use Walthers decal setting solution on a lot of decals that MicroSol won't work on. It's more aggressive and usually works better. Most times I'll also use a Q-tip to carefully roll the moisture and air out from under a decal too. I also have some Tamiya solution that works really well on Tamiya decals. The only ones I have trouble with are Academy. They may take multiple applications of the Walthers and careful massaging with a Q-tip before they even begin to lay down. On those occasions when I get silvering or can see film after a flat coat, out comes a brush and either decanted base coat or more secondary color to do some touch up.

[chromdome35]

Jan 24, 2023 11:17:02 GMT -5 rbaer said:

I use Walthers decal setting solution on a lot of decals that MicroSol won't work on. It's more aggressive and usually works better. Most times I'll also use a Q-tip to carefully roll the moisture and air out from under a decal too. I also have some Tamiya solution that works really well on Tamiya decals. The only ones I have trouble with are Academy. They may take multiple applications of the Walthers and careful massaging with a Q-tip before they even begin to lay down. On those occasions when I get silvering or can see film after a flat coat, out comes a brush and either decanted base coat or more secondary color to do some touch up.

Great advice! I also use a Q-tip to soak up the excess moisture. I haven't tried the Walthers decal solution, it's called Solvaset isn't it?

[rbaer]

That's the stuff. Be patient and careful, sometimes it really attacks the decal, making it wrinkle and look ruined, but don't touch it, let it dry and it'll settle down like paint.

[mustang1989]

Jan 27, 2023 14:47:18 GMT -5 rbaer said:

That's the stuff. Be patient and careful, sometimes it really attacks the decal, making it wrinkle and look ruined, but don't touch it, let it dry and it'll settle down like paint.

I'll be getting me some of that stuff....TODAY!! Thanks for the tip Russ.