Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL

[Mike]

Feb 5, 2024 1:20:21 GMT -5 Tobi said:

Feb 3, 2024 19:41:10 GMT -5 Mike said:

My concerns at this time are whether or not to use silly putty worms to mask the camo or just free hand it. I can get some pretty tight lines these days, but the camo on these vehicles is painted by a robot arm in the factory so they all have the exact same pattern.

For KMW, now KNDS, I do not think so. Everytime I have to do something with them in other projects they are telling the camo job is done the traditional way by a painter and with wire masks. The standard for the camo (at least for German Army) also says that a ten centimeter deviation from the spot's shape from the 5 view drawing is admissible.

Had some discussions in the past with my Sales department about camouflage paints and application. Never ending story.

This is some good information. Thank you for letting me know, Tobi. This does make things a little more easy for me.
I'll just stick to freehanding the pattern from the instructions and I should be good. That makes me happy lol.

[Mike]

Feb 5, 2024 5:18:02 GMT -5 406 Silverado said:

Looks like you're going to some pretty good lengths to get this one right Mike. My hat goes off to you for correcting the issues with the suspension arms. It's all the little things that we sometimes "let slide" that add up and bite us in the tail later on in the build and you just subtracted one more of those from this build. Good work on this one brother.

Thanks, 'Stang. I haven't gone into my usual realm of super detailing or scratch building with this kit, just like I didn't with the 1A1 (that was a pleasant kit to build) because I haven't much knowledge about this tank. The kit is building up nicely after making sure the major assemblies lined up as they should and I'm expecting a good finished model. I'm not planning on going the extra mile with this one however. I'll keep the finish simple. The tracks have some fairly bad flash on them and after trying to clean up the flash from the mud flaps (made of the same rubber crap) I'm not interested in cleaning those tracks up. I'm just going to toss some weathering powders on them and call it good. I had the same problem with the tracks from the M-48A2-GA2. The tracks were junk, all loose and wobbly looking, and I happened to have a set of AFVC indies which made a huge difference. I don't have any indies for this kit, but maybe I will pick some up later. 

The good news is that I've got the kit broken down right now and I'm going to get the lower hull painted up before I attach the skirts and move upwards. I've replaced the rubber tow cables with the smallest gauge picture hanging wire I could find and I'm betting those are going to look waaaay better than the rubber ones. They usually do. 

I'll get some pictures later. 

[Mike]

I've got a layer of Tamiya Olive Green on the bottom of the hull and the pictures dull it out a ton from what it looks like in person.

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Once I get the road wheels and everything under the skirts painted up I can proceed to getting the rest of the model painted. Once again, I'm waiting for paint to dry lol. Always fun.

[deafpanzer]

Looking sharp!

[Tobi]

I hear what you say about camera setting and natural color hue.

I must say I don't like the Tamiya colors from the jar for a Bundeswehr tri-color pattern.
Therefore I came up with my own mixes in the past:



Left is my mix with a certain allowance for scale effect, right side are straight Tamiya NATO colors. Photographed on an 8x8 refueler.
In short the green is too stark, the brown too red and the black too green for my perception.

RAL6031 Bronzegruen: 50% XF-58 olive green, 40% XF-71 IJN cockpit green, 5% XF-18 medium blue, 5% XF-2 white

RAL8027 Lederbraun: 50% XF-64 red brown, 40% XF-52 earth, 5% XF-68 NATO brown, 5% XF-2 white

RAL9021 Teerschwarz: 65% XF-1 black, 35% XF-63 German grey (when I felt it's too grey now it proofed to be quite right!)

The only change I would make next time is to add some drops of brown to the black.

[Mike]

Hey, that's helpful! The instructions actually call out for Bronze Green, Leather Brown, and a custom mix for the black which sounds like the Black-Grey I also have in stock. I've used the Tamiya Olive Green because in natural lighting it looks correct and because it's Tamiya it sticks better.

Thank you for those test samples! I think I'll go with the recommended colors for the rest of the model since the Olive Green is only on the bottom. I'll have to test the Bronze Green and see if I like that better for the top.

[Tobi]

Feb 6, 2024 9:07:05 GMT -5 Mike said:

Hey, that's helpful! The instructions actually call out for Bronze Green, Leather Brown, and a custom mix for the black which sounds like the Black-Grey I also have in stock. I've used the Tamiya Olive Green because in natural lighting it looks correct and because it's Tamiya it sticks better.

Thank you for those test samples! I think I'll go with the recommended colors for the rest of the model since the Olive Green is only on the bottom. I'll have to test the Bronze Green and see if I like that better for the top.

Revell's own colors are very close to the original RAL tones in my opinion, but they have the disadvantage of being too dark if you want to include a scale effect and weathering, which also darkens the model. That and I prefer spraying acrylics.

[stikpusher]

Tobi, how about using the Revell paint NATO colors? I think that their brown & green are a bit closer to the real colors. Tamiya's NATO Black is way off. Their Rubber Black is a better choice to my eye.

[Mike]

Feb 6, 2024 9:25:37 GMT -5 Tobi said:

Feb 6, 2024 9:07:05 GMT -5 Mike said:

Hey, that's helpful! The instructions actually call out for Bronze Green, Leather Brown, and a custom mix for the black which sounds like the Black-Grey I also have in stock. I've used the Tamiya Olive Green because in natural lighting it looks correct and because it's Tamiya it sticks better.

Thank you for those test samples! I think I'll go with the recommended colors for the rest of the model since the Olive Green is only on the bottom. I'll have to test the Bronze Green and see if I like that better for the top.

Revell's own colors are very close to the original RAL tones in my opinion, but they have the disadvantage of being too dark if you want to include a scale effect and weathering, which also darkens the model. That and I prefer spraying acrylics.

I prefer acrylics as well. I was always a Testors enamels man myself, but those days are long gone.

I like the tone of the Tamiya Olive Green for sure, but my Leather Brown looks far too muddy in tone for it to be correct. USAF Brown (Vallejo) looks closer and not as red in tone as Earth. I'll have to do some testing.

[Mike]

Looks like I'll be using Vallejo 71.250 Bronze Green, Vallejo 71.125 USAF Brown, and a mix of Vallejo Black Grey ~(50%) Vallejo Basalt ~(35%) and Vallejo Black ~(15%) for a Tire Black approximation. This combination looks good to my eyes.

[Tobi]

Feb 6, 2024 12:04:03 GMT -5 stikpusher said:

Tobi, how about using the Revell paint NATO colors? I think that their brown & green are a bit closer to the real colors. Tamiya's NATO Black is way off. Their Rubber Black is a better choice to my eye.

Feb 6, 2024 14:43:58 GMT -5 Mike said:

Looks like I'll be using Vallejo 71.250 Bronze Green, Vallejo 71.125 USAF Brown, and a mix of Vallejo Black Grey ~(50%) Vallejo Basalt ~(35%) and Vallejo Black ~(15%) for a Tire Black approximation. This combination looks good to my eyes.

Carlos, the Revell NATO colors are good without question, the only problem I see is they are too close to the real color, which is too dark for a miniature if you follow the scale effect theory.

Mike, I did use the Tamiya Olive Green in the past as well, together with their Earth Brown. These are really not bad if one is not into mixing. I find their Earth way better than their NATO Brown, at least for the German camo. A French or Italian scheme would be a totally different story on the other hand.

[Mike]

Feb 6, 2024 15:46:57 GMT -5 Tobi said:

Feb 6, 2024 12:04:03 GMT -5 stikpusher said:

Tobi, how about using the Revell paint NATO colors? I think that their brown & green are a bit closer to the real colors. Tamiya's NATO Black is way off. Their Rubber Black is a better choice to my eye.

Feb 6, 2024 14:43:58 GMT -5 Mike said:

Looks like I'll be using Vallejo 71.250 Bronze Green, Vallejo 71.125 USAF Brown, and a mix of Vallejo Black Grey ~(50%) Vallejo Basalt ~(35%) and Vallejo Black ~(15%) for a Tire Black approximation. This combination looks good to my eyes.

Carlos, the Revell NATO colors are good without question, the only problem I see is they are too close to the real color, which is too dark for a miniature if you follow the scale effect theory.

Mike, I did use the Tamiya Olive Green in the past as well, together with their Earth Brown. These are really not bad if one is not into mixing. I find their Earth way better than their NATO Brown, at least for the German camo. A French or Italian scheme would be a totally different story on the other hand.

I've taken a shine to the Bronze Green. It's got a tinge of a blue hue to it that should make this scheme look a bit different after I weather it. We shall see.

In other news I have the bottom all dirtied up and the wheels painted as well. I was assembling the road wheels and then found a problem with the one of the skirts. Looks like the last of my Krylon got under the tape and ate into the plastic. I'm afraid a recovery isn't going to be possible. It's alright. I liked the updated German skirts better anyways, so I've got a fresh can of Rustoleum (because Krylon disappeared from my area it seems) sprayed on and I'll finish assembly later.


Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

That's the result after trying to clean it with enamel thinner and then sanding. That reaction dug in pretty deep and there will be no way it won't be noticed. I'm glad this kit had two sets!

[Mike]

The wheels are not glued on yet so I can weather them separately, but here is where I'm stopping for today.

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

I'm almost tempted to use Dark Yellow instead of Black on this scheme. But since I'm going with the NL I don't think it would look right lol. I do happen to think the old Dark Yellow, Green, Red Brown ambush scheme would look amazing on this tank though.

[deafpanzer]

I always liked how the Leopard turret is almost as big as its hull!

[kyledehart5]

Well that looks outstanding.

[406 Silverado]

Dude this sucker's lookin SHARP!!! Sorry to hear about the skirt issue but sounds like you've got it all worked out with the German skirts.

[Mike]

Thanks guys. I'm not sure what to say. I've only attached the tow cables to the model in the last three days and I've made no progress.

I've had another round of drama and stress that I'm hopefully about to resolve. It's astounding how much these things take out of your enthusiasm.

Anyways, I'm sure I'll have something to report soon on this build and hopefully something more with my M-41 build as well.

Thanks for keeping my threads relevant. I will participate more soon.

[Mike]

Hey guys. I've made a bit of progress getting some paint on this model. I've got the base cote on the turret done and i've got a few thin layers on the upper hull now as well. I have pictures but i've had to change phones again and i'm still setting things up. (what a pita!)

Posting said pictures will have to wait until much later as the wifi i've been using is provided by a room mate who's decided i don't deserve to use it because i've asked him to find a new residence because he's refused to pay rent (casinos are more fun). It's a huge mess.

So more stress and anxiety for good ol Mike.

I will update as soon as i can.

[406 Silverado]

Feb 22, 2024 1:06:12 GMT -5 Mike said:

Hey guys. I've made a bit of progress getting some paint on this model. I've got the base cote on the turret done and i've got a few thin layers on the upper hull now as well. I have pictures but i've had to change phones again and i'm still setting things up. (what a pita!)

Posting said pictures will have to wait until much later as the wifi i've been using is provided by a room mate who's decided i don't deserve to use it because i've asked him to find a new residence because he's refused to pay rent (casinos are more fun). It's a huge mess.

So more stress and anxiety for good ol Mike.

I will update as soon as i can.

  One day at a time brother Mike. Looking forward to seeing your pictures when you can post 'em up and glad you're here. 

[handiabled]

Feb 22, 2024 1:06:12 GMT -5 Mike said:

Hey guys. I've made a bit of progress getting some paint on this model. I've got the base cote on the turret done and i've got a few thin layers on the upper hull now as well. I have pictures but i've had to change phones again and i'm still setting things up. (what a pita!)

Posting said pictures will have to wait until much later as the wifi i've been using is provided by a room mate who's decided i don't deserve to use it because i've asked him to find a new residence because he's refused to pay rent (casinos are more fun). It's a huge mess.

So more stress and anxiety for good ol Mike.

I will update as soon as i can.

I just caught up with this again and your progress looks wonderful! I'm looking forward to see color on this once you get things squared away. I hope your roommate issues get resolved sooner than later for you, there's nothing more stressful than a hostile environment where you live. I'll be standing by for more when you can get it posted

[kyledehart5]

Hey Mike, I hope you can get those personal issues resolved quickly and save yourself some stress!! Real life is forever getting in the way of our hobby! Looo forward to seeing the update once you’re all squared away

[Mike]

Thanks, guys. I thought the guy was a friend. Turns out he's a fake Christian con artist. My only advantage has been that he has less than average intelligence and drugs are involved. I keep praying for this to be resolved soon.

As far as the model goes, im happy so far. The Bronze Green looks great but i worry it will muddle with the black camo later. As was pointed out, it may be too dark. If it turns out too dark i'll lighten it up though.

I stay confined to my bedroom a lot these days to keep from being harassed too much, and my nerves are fried most days which makes my hands shake a lot. But i'm trying. Modeling is usually my zen time.

Fortunately my family has been visiting every night to keep the bully at bay. He still says a lot of dumb stuff though. Gaslighting is his favorite tactic.

Just another chapter in my rapidly devolving life. Lol

But hey, my wife got the divorce papers i sent her so that will be over soon. One good thing this year. I'll take it.

[kyledehart5]

Keep your head up and take it one day at a time Mike. Maybe some cliche advice but it’s about all we can do some days. Hopefully things improve soon and you can get back to enjoying your hobby

[Mike]

Hey, all. Finally got the new phone in order and uploaded some new pictures.

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Revell 1/35 Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

The lower hull still only has one cote of Bronze Green on it. I actually pulled out another kit to build yesterday just to build something and it's not a kit that's in my wheelhouse at all. The Academy 1/800 Nimitz. It was my friends last assignment before he retired from the Navy and stole my wife. Well... I got nothing against Old Salt. Besides I kept admiring her when she was mothballed not too far from here in Bremerton. When I'd heard they were bringing her back into active status I was thrilled. Of course I know now that she's been through so many refits over the years she's literally filled full of holes where equipment keeps getting swapped out. They even had to cut one trip short and return to Bremerton because the blister on the nose started to fall off after a batch of rough seas. lol!

She's still a grand old ship and I'm having fun adding a bit of decking to the interior at the rear ramps.

Academy 1/800 Nimitz by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

I needed something to pull the hull together at the rear anyways so I got out the sheet styrene. Now I'll have somewhere to park some jets as well as pull the hull in enough for the deck to fit.

Well, that's about it for now. Thanks for looking.

[handiabled]

Great progress!! Hopefully you get more bench time soon. Divorces are great to have behind you for sure. My first marriage ended after 4 years......... ( 9 years if you add in the windchill factor) since that I've been re-married now for going on 30 years to my beautiful wife. Better days ahead Mike!

[406 Silverado]

Good to see that you got a new phone Mike and that you're continuing on with this build. Great start on the Nimitz as well man.

[Mike]

I got around to getting the camo colors on this beastie finally. A bit of Vallejo Earth Brown (Edit: Leather Brown) and Vallejo Black-Grey yesterday and some refinements this afternoon topped off with a Polyurethane gloss to seal it up.

Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

Nothing much else happening with this build at the moment. I might get the decals on later this evening and have some fun with the ol' oils after that.

[keavdog]

Looks good. Camo is awesome - wicked looking beast.

[Mike]

The decals are on and I'm quite happy with the reflectors I've made out of some red foil paper I saved from an old pack of Camel cigarettes. This crappy picture will have to suffice for the moment. Sorry.

Leopard 2A6NL by Mike Brindos, on Flickr

.

[handiabled]

For a "crappy picture" this looks sweet! Great looking camo work on this! I am looking forward to seeing it once you the makings on