1/48 Eduard Fw190A-3 (OT) *Finished 4/28/24*

[406 Silverado]

Apr 5, 2024 21:38:59 GMT -5 stikpusher said:

Strongest stuff is lacquer thinner, applied quite sparingly... used in minute amounts in precise locations... don't try it here unless you practice on a test mule first to get a feel for it with this particular type of decal...

Apr 6, 2024 1:20:19 GMT -5 jeaton01 said:

If all else fails, heat. Walthers stuff is pretty strong and Gunze Mr Mark Softer is pretty hot too.

 Both of these suggestions sound like good options to me Dave. I've used Microsol for years and haven't had many issues yet (except for spirals on prop spinners or air cleaner decals on autos) but usually a few coats of it is all it takes. Looking forward to seeing the recovery efforts buddy.

[handiabled]

On stubborn settling decals I cover them with a healthy amount of Walthers and after a few minutes take a water soaked wadded up paper towel or Q tip and gently but firmly press STRAIGHT DOWN on the area you want to take a rivet or panel line ect. I wouldn't recommend this with potato chip thin decals unless you are confident the pressure won't tear them.

HTH Brent

[hasenpfeffer]

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I've tried some of them already, such as a hairdryer, soaking in Solvaset and them adding pressure with a Q-tip held vertically. I've even tried rubbing gently with a silicon brush. I have heard that Mr Mark Softer is pretty strong... I might get some just to have and another data point. I think that I may try the use of LT used sparingly. In reflection, maybe for these thicker decals it would be a good idea to use Solvaset instead of Micro Set when placing them? I'm thinking maybe they are too "taut" and maybe don't have enough stretch with the Solvaset to settle into the rivets and panel lines. The lines are easy to fix, but he rivets are tougher since you can't see exactly where they are. Experimentation to continue.

[406 Silverado]

Apr 6, 2024 10:44:27 GMT -5 hasenpfeffer said:

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I've tried some of them already, such as a hairdryer, soaking in Solvaset and them adding pressure with a Q-tip held vertically. I've even tried rubbing gently with a silicon brush. I have heard that Mr Mark Softer is pretty strong... I might get some just to have and another data point. I think that I may try the use of LT used sparingly. In reflection, maybe for these thicker decals it would be a good idea to use Solvaset instead of Micro Set when placing them? I'm thinking maybe they are too "taut" and maybe don't have enough stretch with the Solvaset to settle into the rivets and panel lines. The lines are easy to fix, but he rivets are tougher since you can't see exactly where they are. Experimentation to continue.

[dupes]

Apr 5, 2024 16:45:49 GMT -5 hasenpfeffer said:

Hey guys, what's your best advice for stubborn decals? Besides painting, lol, since they are already on. I've given up on Solvaset as I've put around 20 coats of it on with maybe 50% success.
You can see on this side that maybe 80% of the rivets are showing (decal settled into the rivets.)


On this side only maybe 10%.


Wings - I'll just say, disappointing at best.

What's the strongest stuff you guys have used, or what is your secret technique when this is the situation?

If you want the decals to settle into the rivets, poke each one of them with a sharp knife tip, and then go with the setting solution.

[hasenpfeffer]

Apr 6, 2024 14:45:47 GMT -5 dupes said:

Apr 5, 2024 16:45:49 GMT -5 hasenpfeffer said:

Hey guys, what's your best advice for stubborn decals? Besides painting, lol, since they are already on. I've given up on Solvaset as I've put around 20 coats of it on with maybe 50% success.
You can see on this side that maybe 80% of the rivets are showing (decal settled into the rivets.)


On this side only maybe 10%.

Wings - I'll just say, disappointing at best.

What's the strongest stuff you guys have used, or what is your secret technique when this is the situation?

If you want the decals to settle into the rivets, poke each one of them with a sharp knife tip, and then go with the setting solution.

Hey Marc, yep I have tried that. I used a pin, or sharpened toothpick (a little softer point than a pin) to poke the rivets I could see. That is the main problem though... I can't see where a lot of them are. The crosses on the wings are near impossible with the amount of rivets hidden under them.

[hasenpfeffer]

So, as promised I did a little experimenting to see what I might try to get these darn decals settled in like they should be. I didn't go crazy, I suppose because I really don't care that much since you have to be looking at the hi-res close ups to see the issue. It's hard enough to see the rivets on the plane in person anyway. It's just one of those detail things that we strive for at the end of the day. This day, however, the decals have taken the "W". LOL

Anyway, I set about 2 different methods of applying the decals go see (mainly) if using Solvaset instead of Micro-Set from the get-go has any effect.
Here I used the upper wing crosses from the same Eagle Cals set - the right I applied Solvaset >> decal >> Solvaset. The right, Micro-Set >> decal >> Micro-Sol. I applied the decals as you would for any situation. The only difference is what I used in starting and finishing.


You can see I added some rivet and panel lines for the decals to settle into.


Post the final solution. They are both pretty lackluster results. The Solvaset side did get further into the details, however. I would probably try this when applying thick decals like these in the future, but it really isn't any guarantee.


I then tried some of the suggestions you guys had, such as heat. More than I'd be comfortable using on a built and painted model, so caution advised. And a very small amount of lacquer thinner. This I don't think I'd ever try again, because when Carlos said "very sparingly" even that is a major understatement. I used very little - and all it did was make the color run - basically melting it of the decal itself so it behaved more like paint than anything else. You can see the damage it did on the right side with the brush only moistened with LT. (And then even dried a little on paper towel.)


Anyhow, I hope that maybe it's a little helpful for someone. I'm calling it a day on this set as I just don't want to deal with it anymore. Like I said above, you have to look close to really notice it, so whatever.

Moving along... I had to repaint the canopy since I (probably) painted it with MRP RLM74 and then went ahead and used AK RC RLM74 for the rest of the plane. Yeah... they don't really match. First steps of weathering.

[kyledehart5]

That’s looking outstanding. And interesting experiment on the decals for sure.

[406 Silverado]

Thank you for taking the time to put all of this together in regard to the decal setting solutions and different methods Dave. +1 Karma to you. 

Despite your issues with the decals on the plane, it's turning out to be an exceptional build. Lookin' good buddy.

[mrversatile]

Sorry I got to this late. You may want to try Mr Color leveling thinner on the decals. I used it sparingly on some brittle decals once and it softened them up enough to wrap around some sidewinder missiles. In any event, I like what you are doing with this.

[handiabled]

This looks fantastic! It sure looks like you got the markings into the panel lines and other detail from these pictures

[hasenpfeffer]

Apr 16, 2024 5:54:43 GMT -5 mrversatile said:

Sorry I got to this late. You may want to try Mr Color leveling thinner on the decals. I used it sparingly on some brittle decals once and it softened them up enough to wrap around some sidewinder missiles. In any event, I like what you are doing with this.

No problem, Gil. I may try that if I run into this problem again. I did notice that the lacquer based clear I put on made the rivet holes visible and raised the decal a bit over them, but it never settled into them later when it cured.

Apr 16, 2024 8:21:11 GMT -5 handiabled said:

This looks fantastic! It sure looks like you got the markings into the panel lines and other detail from these pictures

Thanks Brent! The port side did okay minus the swastika. The starboard side, not super terrible, but the tops and bottoms of the wings pretty much was a fail. The panel lines are not an issue since it's easy to run your hobby blade down them and cut the decal. Oh well. Next time I use Eagle Cals it will be with Solvaset when laying them down in the first place - and then again to help them settle. In my experiment this seemed to work. But you never are 100%. May also try Gil's suggestion above. Is a little more mild than straight-up lacquer thinner.

[hasenpfeffer]

Believe it or not I'm getting fairly close to finishing this bird up. I spent a long time fiddling around with the gear and the smaller gear doors. LOL, they were probably the hardest thing to assemble on this thing. Seatbelts are now installed. Canopy needs to be permanently attached, wheels installed and the outboard guns and pitot. Add an antenna and crack a beer.

Here are a couple pics of where it stands at the moment.





Oh... forgot the mounting ladder too. Painted and ready to go. Just needs a little wear and tear added.

[kyledehart5]

This looks so good!!!

[handiabled]

This looks awesome! I'll be watching for the grand finale!!!

[thug626]

I am caught up on this spectacular build! So very glad I did not miss it.

Cheers
Dave

[406 Silverado]

Hell I'd crack TWO beers on that build up. These A model Fw190's just look so dang good that it's almost a crime. Beautiful efforts to date and am most assuredly looking forward to the finishing pictures Dave.

[hasenpfeffer]

So, a little preview of the finished A-3. I like how it came out. I had a few struggles with the finishing touches, but nothing too dire.
I'll get some finished pics soon.




I'm pretty sure I read in one of the posts that someone was saying the Tamiya landing gear struts are too short. Well, if the Eduard ones are right, then that is absolutely true. I did sand down the Tamiya wheels a little to give the impression of sag and weight. I wish I hadn't as the gear doors are pretty darn low because of that. Of course I didn't foresee that...
Anyway, here you can see how much higher the Eduard kit sits, even if you give the Tamiya kit a mm or 2 for that wheel sanding. It's quite noticeable. Pretty big difference in the spinner, prop and wheels too. Just to name a few.




I suppose if I had to choose, it'd be the Eduard kit. Just more refined all the way around. Having the rivet detail alone is enough to sway me.


Anyway, look for the final shots soon.

[handiabled]

That's a couple of gorgeous 190's! There really is a BIG difference in these when compared side by side

[hasenpfeffer]

Alrighty, as promised, here are the parting shots.














Let me know if you're curious about anything, or if you see I did something wrong. I'd like to get it right next time, if possible.

[lyle]

Real beauty!

[eaglecash867]

Wow! That sure is a beautiful build, Hassenpfeffer. Just curious...what did you use for the padding on the edge of the glareshield?

[keavdog]

Well done. How do you do your antennas?

[TJ]

Wow excellent finish.

[thug626]

Outstanding work!

[jeaton01]

Wonderful model, you should be proud!

[handiabled]

Spectacular build! The lightly weathered paint work looks perfect

[Tojo72]

Beautiful work,finished up real nice.

[deafpanzer]

It really came out great!! Two BIG thumbs up from me. 👍👍

[kyledehart5]

I have to agree with everyone else. Absolutely beautiful result. It looks awesome.