Lotus Type 79 1979 "Martini" Tamiya 1/20

[kyledehart5]

Well that is a beautiful example Joel!!

[greg]

Joel,

Thank you for your kind words and also your input on Indycals. Seems unanimously positive at this point.

Wow, your Lotus is gorgeous, thanks for posting the pic! Now I have a visual of what the kit actually should look like with the Indycals.

[joelw]

Greg,
Thanks for the thumbs up on my build.

After seeing your engine build with all that detailing including the gas lines (BTW, where did you get the gase lines from? ), I have no doubt that your build will exceed what I accomplished on mine. Looking forward to your next update.

joel

[greg]

Sept 30, 2024 7:34:50 GMT -5 joelw said:

Greg,
Thanks for the thumbs up on my build.

After seeing your engine build with all that detailing including the gas lines (BTW, where did you get the gase lines from? ), I have no doubt that your build will exceed what I accomplished on mine. Looking forward to your next update.

joel

Don't hold your breath on that, Joel. I have near-zero experience with painting shiny car bodies. I'm already in the process of stripping IndyCal application #1! Luckily, I bought a second set back when.

On the fuel lines, I bought the ones you see from SpotModel. They are from MFH. Be careful with the link, tubing shown is just a random size. I can't remember which size I used, but it fit on the existing kit fuel line adapters. SpotModel were great to work with, shipped (from overseas) fast, order was correct, well-packaged, nice little personal thank you on the packing slip, etc.

I have since purchased some from Caddis Fly Shop based on a tip from somebody. US based so I presume shipping is less (can't find the shipping cost detail though) and the unit cost is somewhat less. Fast shipping, order correct, well-packaged, etc. I haven't tried any of them yet, but I presume it's the same stuff, more or less.

I don't recall how I determined the size(s) to buy from Caddis, but one nice thing about buying the MFH-packaged product from Spot Model is they clearly list the tubing sizes (I.D. and O.D.)

[greg]

After all of these years building off and on, I had no idea waterslide decals are so resilient!!!!

How do y'all remove them? I'd like to avoid the purple pond, but it isn't looking too rosy. (Will post in a general section if need be, but I'm doubting it'll be necessary).

Tried an overnight soak in vinegar and water. Didn't do much, I think it damaged the underlying paint more than the decals!

TIA.

[joelw]

Greg,
Thanks for the info on the fuel lines. Will look for the fly fishing lines 1st since I live on Long Island and there's a few fishing shops near by.

As for removing decals, the easiest way as long as you didn't seal them is with masking tape. cover parts or all of the decal depending on it's size, push down for good contact, then slowly pull up. Hopefully the decal will pull up with the tape. Any other method using liquids can cause damage to your paint job.

joel

[kyledehart5]

Joel has you covered on the decal remover. If the tape doesn’t work then it’s probably time to go swimming unfortunately. Decals can be a lot tougher than you think for sure.

[greg]

Time for an update, and to get my build back to this thread where it belongs. I've been posting too much about my build in other people's thread's and I know better and apologize for that. Overly-excited new-guy behaviour, I guess?

At last report, I was about to strip decals on my front hood. Here is why. Basically due to poor housekeeping at the bench. I rushed and things apparently didn't stay clean (too many unexplainable remnants).

So with some help from the GB gang, and having never stripped decals before, I did that (wasn't easy at all) and ended up with this new starting point.

Then I  reached for the Stynylrez (an old habit), and having not primed anything for 2 yrs, ended up with dry tip and made a horrible mess. It's worse than it looks in the pic, trust me. And this is after days of sanding, re-priming, etc. I should have stripped the Stynylrez and started over. Disclaimer, the mess was user error, not Badger's fault. IMO Stynylrez is a really good primer and has it's place.

 

Now for the part I'm pleased with. Taking advice from Paul and others here and watching/reading some Gravity tutorials from their website, I proceeded actually taking my time for once, allowing the 5 mins in my drying booth between light coats (never did that before), and leaving drying time between more wet coats (never done that before either), I ended up with a silky and shiny finish. Yippie, and thank you Paul and everybody else who is helping me along with shiny car body techniques.

{{{{{wrong pic, please stand by......

[greg]

Hopefully this is the after Gravity Racing Green picture.

You will see scratches and imperfections and I am aware of them. Result of the priming disaster and this build is beyond the point of putting perfectionism aside, trying to finish it, and move on. You've all been there. Besides, I was hoping a clear coat might cover the boo boos, and thanks to Mr Leveling thinner and my newfound spray techniques, it mostly did.

[greg]

I know I have been advised not to clear coat before decal-ing. Please forgive me, I have to try something. So as I said, I slowed down and for the first time in my life I managed to apply some clear coat coats without a .025" deep pool of clear. So finally, ready to start on the decal do-over.

And Paul, I WILL try your lightly sand before decal-ing tip, but I just can't bring myself to do that right now!!!!

photos.app.goo.gl/eGn9tznY5gErAErD8

One time I remember a surface for decals being too smooth, and if that happens again, Paul, feel free to laugh hysterically in my direction. Fingers crossed. Off to cut some IndyCals.

This is way overkill for decal prep, but I was experimenting.

Thanks!

[arcticwolf]

I always apply a light coat of clear before decalling, and two light coats afterwards. It's all trial and error, and in the end whatever works for you.

[project510]

Sept 30, 2024 9:47:45 GMT -5 greg said:

Sept 30, 2024 7:34:50 GMT -5 joelw said:

Greg,
Thanks for the thumbs up on my build.

After seeing your engine build with all that detailing including the gas lines (BTW, where did you get the gase lines from? ), I have no doubt that your build will exceed what I accomplished on mine. Looking forward to your next update.

joel

Don't hold your breath on that, Joel. I have near-zero experience with painting shiny car bodies. I'm already in the process of stripping IndyCal application #1! Luckily, I bought a second set back when.

On the fuel lines, I bought the ones you see from SpotModel. They are from MFH. Be careful with the link, tubing shown is just a random size. I can't remember which size I used, but it fit on the existing kit fuel line adapters. SpotModel were great to work with, shipped (from overseas) fast, order was correct, well-packaged, nice little personal thank you on the packing slip, etc.

I have since purchased some from Caddis Fly Shop based on a tip from somebody. US based so I presume shipping is less (can't find the shipping cost detail though) and the unit cost is somewhat less. Fast shipping, order correct, well-packaged, etc. I haven't tried any of them yet, but I presume it's the same stuff, more or less.

I don't recall how I determined the size(s) to buy from Caddis, but one nice thing about buying the MFH-packaged product from Spot Model is they clearly list the tubing sizes (I.D. and O.D.)

I think the tip was from me on FSM and the F1 group build. .2-.3 is scale I think. Looking good on the repaint! 

[bakster]

Hey Greg, sorry to see you are having paint problems. It takes the fun out of it for a person. Been there too many times. Keep at it brother, you can do it!

[benb]

Looking good, Greg!

Ben

[greg]

Oct 22, 2024 17:33:21 GMT -5 bakster said:

Hey Greg, sorry to see you are having paint problems. It takes the fun out of it for a person. Been there too many times. Keep at it brother, you can do it!

 

Hey Stevie! Thanks for your support.

I would call it more being new to lacquers plus being on sabbatical and out of practice for a couple of years. You know me, I do more experimenting than building, it's all good.

[greg]

Oct 22, 2024 17:46:24 GMT -5 benb said:

Looking good, Greg!

Ben

 Hey Ben! Thanks! I feel the confidence slowly building back up. It's nice to be back at the bench, good to have the bench setup again period, and mostly great to have this great group to shoot the bull with in the meantime.

[406 Silverado]

Great recovery efforts on that paint work Greg. Yeah.....that Stynlrez is great for a while and then it just goes bad QUICK!! Great stuff when it's new though.

[bakster]

Oct 22, 2024 18:29:00 GMT -5 greg said:

Oct 22, 2024 17:33:21 GMT -5 bakster said:

Hey Greg, sorry to see you are having paint problems. It takes the fun out of it for a person. Been there too many times. Keep at it brother, you can do it!

 

Hey Stevie! Thanks for your support.

I would call it more being new to lacquers plus being on sabbatical and out of practice for a couple of years. You know me, I do more experimenting than building, it's all good.

Once again, we seem to follow the same path. Lacquers are a bit of a learning curve. They are fantastic but I find you must find the sweet spot where you don't craze the plastic. I find crazing happens fairly easily. At least, that has been my nemesis. But, I love the finish when done right.

And yes, when out of the groove for a spell, it is like learning all over. Been there too often.

It is great to see you at it, Greg. Hopefully, soon, I will get back on track and post some updates too. Waiting for the colder weather to hit forcing me to.

Keep at it, Greg. I am enjoying the journey with you.

[joelw]

Greg,
The surface looks way better then before, so you're making great progress. As per my little tutorial on James's build, i don't apply gloss under decals, just lightly wet sand with 6000-8000. The goal either way is for a smooth surface other wise you're looking at nooks & crannies that trap air and cause silvering. Also remember to wash the parts in warm soapy water to get rid of dust, finger prints, and sanding dust it you went that route. Looking forward to following your decaling steps.

joel

[kyledehart5]

That’s looking mighty spiffy to me!! Great job working your way through the issues. Love the green!! It looks spot on. Can’t wait to see you get some decals down!

[keavdog]

Nice recovery Greg. Stripping car bodies is a regular thing lol

[greg]

Oct 22, 2024 18:44:46 GMT -5 406 Silverado said:

Great recovery efforts on that paint work Greg. Yeah.....that Stynlrez is great for a while and then it just goes bad QUICK!! Great stuff when it's new though.

Thanks, Joe! Funny you should mention the Stynylrez. Bottle I used was from 7-22 (received date, production date unknown) and I used it anyway. I don't know why I do dumb stuff like that, but I do.

[greg]

Oct 22, 2024 18:52:20 GMT -5 bakster said:

Oct 22, 2024 18:29:00 GMT -5 greg said:

 

Hey Stevie! Thanks for your support.

I would call it more being new to lacquers plus being on sabbatical and out of practice for a couple of years. You know me, I do more experimenting than building, it's all good.

Once again, we seem to follow the same path. Lacquers are a bit of a learning curve. They are fantastic but I find you must find the sweet spot where you don't craze the plastic. I find crazing happens fairly easily. At least, that has been my nemesis. But, I love the finish when done right.

And yes, when out of the groove for a spell, it is like learning all over. Been there too often.

It is great to see you at it, Greg. Hopefully, soon, I will get back on track and post some updates too. Waiting for the colder weather to hit forcing me to.

Keep at it, Greg. I am enjoying the journey with you.

Real nice to have you following along, amigo.

[greg]

Oct 22, 2024 19:00:45 GMT -5 joelw said:

Greg,
The surface looks way better then before, so you're making great progress. As per my little tutorial on James's build, i don't apply gloss under decals, just lightly wet sand with 6000-8000. The goal either way is for a smooth surface other wise you're looking at nooks & crannies that trap air and cause silvering. Also remember to wash the parts in warm soapy water to get rid of dust, finger prints, and sanding dust it you went that route. Looking forward to following your decaling steps.

joel

I did not forget about your pre-decal advice, Joel. I am glad you clarified, though. I read you now to mean either a light sanding before decals, or a gloss coat prior to decaling.  I misinterpreted you to mean light sand before decaling, even if there is a clear coat and I just couldn't bring myself to do that to my shiny pre-decal clear.

[greg]

Oct 22, 2024 19:33:07 GMT -5 kyledehart5 said:

That’s looking mighty spiffy to me!! Great job working your way through the issues. Love the green!! It looks spot on. Can’t wait to see you get some decals down!

Thank you, Kyle! The color is Gravity Colors Martini Lotus Green and it's my first experience with Gravity Paints. Really liking it so far!

[greg]

Oct 22, 2024 19:39:40 GMT -5 keavdog said:

Nice recovery Greg. Stripping car bodies is a regular thing lol

Thanks, John...and thanks for following along.

I guess I'll just have to get used to stripping then. I did buy a gallon of Purple Power recently to augment my stripping arsenal.

[handiabled]

Great recovery Greg! You got this for sure!

[joelw]

Oct 23, 2024 8:12:08 GMT -5 greg said:

Oct 22, 2024 19:00:45 GMT -5 joelw said:

Greg,
The surface looks way better then before, so you're making great progress. As per my little tutorial on James's build, i don't apply gloss under decals, just lightly wet sand with 6000-8000. The goal either way is for a smooth surface other wise you're looking at nooks & crannies that trap air and cause silvering. Also remember to wash the parts in warm soapy water to get rid of dust, finger prints, and sanding dust it you went that route. Looking forward to following your decaling steps.

joel

I did not forget about your pre-decal advice, Joel. I am glad you clarified, though. I read you now to mean either a light sanding before decals, or a gloss coat prior to decaling.  I misinterpreted you to mean light sand before decaling, even if there is a clear coat and I just couldn't bring myself to do that to my shiny pre-decal clear.

Greg,

  if you clear coat prior to decaling, then that surface needs to smooth as well. In those cases where I opted to go that route, I still lightly wet sand it with 6,000 then 8,000 emery cloth. By lightly I mean just that where you let the paper do most of the work rather then you pushing down on it and giving the paper a helping hand.  

Joel

[greg]

Oct 23, 2024 8:46:47 GMT -5 handiabled said:

Great recovery Greg! You got this for sure!

Thank you, Handi!

[greg]

Oct 23, 2024 9:11:48 GMT -5 joelw said:

Oct 23, 2024 8:12:08 GMT -5 greg said:

I did not forget about your pre-decal advice, Joel. I am glad you clarified, though. I read you now to mean either a light sanding before decals, or a gloss coat prior to decaling.  I misinterpreted you to mean light sand before decaling, even if there is a clear coat and I just couldn't bring myself to do that to my shiny pre-decal clear.

Greg,

  if you clear coat prior to decaling, then that surface needs to smooth as well. In those cases where I opted to go that route, I still lightly wet sand it with 6,000 then 8,000 emery cloth. By lightly I mean just that where you let the paper do most of the work rather then you pushing down on it and giving the paper a helping hand.  

Joel

Ok, got it, and that leads to another question. Is emery cloth different from sandpaper and if yes, where does one find it in 6,000 and 8,000 grit?