Pocher Rolls Royce 1:8

[armornutii]

   So cool, thanks for sharing....and reminding me I'm just a mediocore modeller....but proud of it.

[paddy]

I bought a mini drill stand to take the Dremel which has made things like drilling holes on the curve of a tube so much easier







The kit ignition wire is 1mm so 8mm in real life so spot on. I didnt have enough wire to do both sides, this has 12 leads because the 6 cylinder engine has twin plug heads
You measure multicore wire size like this by the number of strands to the dia of each strand. So ,for example, The kit wire has 7 strands of 0.2mm wire so its sold as 7/0.2 . I was going toi buy some on amazon but while its cheap, i dont need 100m

www.switchelectronics.co.uk/products/red-7-0-2mm-stranded-copper-cable-100m?currency=GBP&variant=45333052424501&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=bbf1d20e1ed7&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAouG5BhDBARIsAOc08RQcSxVjROWLeA_vWdJtaP4xp67sewBd-yyG6tlQMCRdAYGccwl008AaAqlpEALw_wcB

Anyway i have finished the leads which is a good step forward.

Note the right side has a coil and distributor and the left has a Magnitio , not sure why ??

[paddy]

Oh and by the way, many thanks for all the kind comments

[kyledehart5]

What a strange setup that ignition system is. But it’s looking awesome!! The wires really bring it to life. Love that dremel drill setup too!! Looks like it would be very useful!

[tcoat]

Nov 16, 2024 14:01:35 GMT -5 paddy said:

Note the right side has a coil and distributor and the left has a Magnitio , not sure why ??

As usual this made me curious and I went on an info quest. 
It would appear that these early cars had a coil system for easier starting on a battery and a magneto for performance when running. The magneto system also served as a backup if it needed to be hand cranked to start it due to battery failure which seems to be pretty common back then. Of course they were still trying to work everything out so the redundant systems just made sure you could get the thing running.

[handiabled]

With the detail your adding it's getting harder and harder to tell if I'm looking at a scale model or the 1:1 version.

[paddy]

Nov 19, 2024 9:05:56 GMT -5 tcoat said:

Nov 16, 2024 14:01:35 GMT -5 paddy said:

Note the right side has a coil and distributor and the left has a Magnitio , not sure why ??

As usual this made me curious and I went on an info quest. 
It would appear that these early cars had a coil system for easier starting on a battery and a magneto for performance when running. The magneto system also served as a backup if it needed to be hand cranked to start it due to battery failure which seems to be pretty common back then. Of course they were still trying to work everything out so the redundant systems just made sure you could get the thing running.

Brilliant, thanks for that . the mag seems to be driven off the starter so i wonder if it only fired when it was cranking or if the starter  ran all the time at engine speed.

[jeaton01]

Without an impulse coupling a magneto is not much good for starting, I suspect it was there for reliability. Jacobs aircraft engines had a similar ignition system.

[paddy]

Today i have found more problems with this project
A lot of the rear linkages have been fixed with either solder, CA. or melted with a hot knife .




This is a problem because
A/ a lot of it is not assembled correctly and
B/ You can see above the cam that expands the brakes with a nut. What you cant see is the other side of the cam is a another nut and these 2 nuts when tightened , turn the cam. However the nuts are not tight and when you tighten anything on this model it just splits because the plastic has gone brittle.






to tighten parts enough to be able to use that joint as a drive for another part isn't really possible anymore due to age. Bear in mind that, for example a rear brake between hub and brake peddle goes through 10-15 of these joints and if one slips a few degrees its not going to work..

I am now wondering if i can build this as a static display model without brakes ? bear in mind also these cars had hydrolic brakes so all this is a bit of a nonsense anyway....Ultimately these models are not designed to be disassembled

[benb]

Well, that stinks. It amazes me how someone would spend a ton of money on something and then do such a hack job building it. I hope you’re able to find a good solution to the previous owner’s ham fisted construction method.

Ben

[tcoat]

I see much grinding, drilling and pinning in your future.

[moparman18064]

Sorry to hear this. This makes me afraid for when I get on to my Spyder, still sealed. I’m sure you will find a great workaround. What you have done so far is fantastic.

[paddy]

On a brighter note i have stripped painted and rebuilt the rear axle




Mopar

I think you will be fine, especially if the parts are boxed, i think light degradation is a factor but really what you need to do is just ease thing when fitting one part in another, Basically if its a tight fit just sand or file, open up the hole etc so the parts slide together rather than a press fit that stresses the plastic. Parts i have found that have cracked have been parts with over tightened screws, tight fit stressed in some other way

[kyledehart5]

Well the rear axle is just stunning. I am sorry to hear about the previous builder, however.

[greg]

Yes, the rear axle is a model in itself, and I've certainly never thought or said that about an axle assy before.

[tcoat]

Nov 21, 2024 8:38:17 GMT -5 greg said:

Yes, the rear axle is a model in itself, and I've certainly never thought or said that about an axle assy before.

[handiabled]

Your rework of the axle looks outstanding!