Brummbar Mid Production

[wbill76]

Started on a new project this weekend, DML's kit #6460 Sdkfz 166 Stu.Pz. IV "Brummbar" Mid Production with Atak zim and MK workable tracks. I've been wanting to do a Stupa for a while and finally decided this one had earned it's slot on the schedule!



A new project means starting at the beginning...so as you would expect with a Dragon Pz IV kit, Step 1 meant spending a lot of time on the sprockets, idlers, return rollers, and road wheels. I found a reference pic of one of the 3 vehicles the kit markings provide for, the Command version #1, and used that as a guide to decide on the style of idlers and return rollers. All of the road wheel halves had their mold seams sanded away with a sanding stick but left unassembled to make it easier to paint them later on.

I also assembled a short run of 8 links of the MK set to double-check the spacing on the sprockets, idlers, and return rollers to make sure everything would play nice later on as well.





Step 2 deals with the rear hull plate and I installed that to the lower hull first and then added the details to avoid issues with stuff getting in the way of a good join. Some light sanding at the base of the plate was all that was required to get a good fit with the weld seam line there. The Atak zim panels for the rear were added using Gator Grip glue and regular liquid glue around the edges to tack things down where needed. I opted for the heavy-duty towing hitch since that was a regular feature on Pz IV chassis at the time the Mid version of Brummbar's were built.



Step 3 deals with the hull front and the addition of the final drive front base plates. It's a good idea to install the nose plate first and then add the final drive plates after as they are a tight fit due to the small bolt detail on the one side of the drive plates. The tow points were added and the pins needed some trimming to fit correctly in the openings. Once that was set, I added the bolt-on armor plate for the nose underside from Step 6 and the installed the zim panels. Some slight putty work was needed between the joins on the two plate panels, easily taken care of with some Squadron White putty and a little sanding.



Next up will be the suspension and lower hull sides.

[armorguy]

The zimm looks nice, take your time to assemble the tracks, they're beautiful but fragile while handling.

[TRM]

Oh, definitely count me in on this one Bill!!! Off to an awesome start!!! Nice to have the heads up on the fitting of the hull. Sitting back and getting comfy for this one!!!

[bigjohn]

Hi Bill,

I'll be following this one. Nice start on a new build! Looking forward to this one.

[406 Silverado]

sweeeeeeet

[wouter]

Nice one Bill! Love the look of the StuPa! Got myself a stalled Tristar StuPa build using the same Atak zimmerit. Lookin' forward how yours comes together mate!

Cheers

[spud]

Sweet, very nice start bill

[Thom]

Great looking start Bill, keep her coming.

Cheers,
Thom

[eastrock]

Nice StArt, the details looks great!

[danb.]

Looking good so far Bill keep it up

Dan B

[wbill76]

Thanks guys, appreciate the interest in the build!

armorguy, thanks for the heads-up, I'm familiar with this particular MK set since I've used it many times before on both Pz III and IV builds in the past. You're right about their fragility, the key is to ensure there isn't any flash on the outer pin holes on the links and that each link is firmly seated when glued in place due to the small tolerances for the pins to hold the links together in the first place. If they aren't, you can have runs suddenly disintegrate when put under slight stress for no apparent reason...which of course can be very disconcerting!

Wouter, the Tristar kit is a nice one I've heard but a lot of parts. Don't let it stay stalled for too long!

[bullardino]

Nice, the Brummbar is strange enough to make me like it

[multicam]

Nice start Bill I'll be watching for updates on this one

[wbill76]

Thanks luigi and multicam! The brummbar is one of those ugly brutes that won't win any points for style for sure but then it was basically designed to be a mobile artillery bunker for street fighting and demolishing buildings!

[armorguy]

Thanks my friend, I'm afraid I'll stick to the metal tracks of Friul...

[406 Silverado]

hhhhhm no more pics.......... ;D ;D ;D ;D

Mr MK is at it again. Love that zim Bill. I couldn't find MK tracks at the last show for the KV , but did get some working resin tracks. Sorry Bill, will get a set of MK's soon I promise.

[wouter]

I must admit...got some MK's for the Sturer Emil here...but since I'm a Friul boy, I'm a bit afraid of them ;D

Lookin' forward to some updates, especially construction of the casemate

Cheers

[bullardino]

I have MKs, I still have to try friul. But the simplicity of the MKs is definitely a nice thing. I think only AFV makes easier tracks...

[wouter]

Well, I must say I have done the MasterClub resin tracks for the Tiger I, and it's system is much simpler than Friuls (allthough I don't think Friul tracks are hard to assemble, depends maybe on which type of vehicle) and they aren't very vulnarable when weathering them (I heard that MK tracks have some issues when using turpentine?)

Cheers

[wbill76]

Rob, try www.rzm.com for MKs, they're my favorite source, can't go wrong with them! FWIW, I used a set of Legend resin tracks on my KV-1 project so I do step out of the MK mold every now and then. Bench time has been reserved to the weekends now that my MBA stuff is back in full swing so look for regular updates on Sundays as a rule.

Wouter, don't be afraid...they won't bite! As Luigi points out, they usually are fairly straightforward (although some sets can be a little complicated depending) to put together. Since MK tracks are styrene, they can be vulnerable if you use aggressive solvents so I would exercise a little care there especially if it's something "hot" like lacquer-based stuff...however I can say that I've used enamel thinner-based washes on them without issues so not sure how aggressive turpentine would be towards it? The styrene is the same type and quality used on regular kits FWIW.

[johnt]

Hi Bill. Not sure what it it but the shape of the Brummbar fascinates me. Very tidy work so far mate!

Cheers
JT

[robbo]

I like Brummbars and have one in the deapths of the stash hidden away for a rainy day

[wbill76]

Thanks John!

Robbo, they make for good stash items...they sit nice and quiet and wait their turn patiently. Mine did at least for at least a year anyhow!

[wbill76]

Continuing on from last week, this week's efforts focused on the lower hull and suspension.

Step 4 adds the base mounts for the suspension along with the bump stops and the rear towing hooks. The Atak panels for the lower hull are provided as a large single piece and some trimming was necessary here and there to get things to fit properly but otherwise no major issues were encountered. From experience, I know that the front piece that curves over the final drive will interfere with the fenders when it comes time to install so I cut that short on purpose to head off that issue.





Step 5 returns to the hull rear and adds the idler mounts and the exhaust. The instructions provide a choice of type of idler mount and after checking reference photos I went with the parts B15/14 as those are the later style appropriate for this vehicle's production time line. The multi-part muffler was assembled and the exhaust pipe thinned out with a drill bit and some trimming with the tip of a sharp #11 blade. I had to trim the Atak panels a bit more to allow the pipe support trays to fit correctly in this area as well.



Step 6 installs the hull glacis plate and the Atak set includes a resin replacement with separate parts for the transmission/brake access hatches. Those were added using CA gel and the narrow panel for the full front plate zim added along with a little putty to round things out in that department. The glacis spare track run will get installed later after the hull is painted to make it easier to detail it at that stage.



Step 6 also calls for the road wheels and suspension elements to be installed. The road wheels were left off for now but the suspension elements were added. They have just a little bit of play to them so it's important to get them all lined up correctly so that the vehicle will sit level later on.



That brought me to Step 7 which deals with the assembly of the fenders and their installation to the hull. I added the front mud flaps first along with their zim panels, carefully trimming them to avoid the interference problem mentioned previously with the lower hull sides. The kit designers didn't build in any tolerance levels for zim interaction in these areas so the added fractional mm that the zim creates causes issues if not dealt with accordingly.

The fenders were then installed using regular glue along the hull edges where they overlap and liquid glue at the rear where they sit flush. After that had set up, I added the rear mud flaps and finally the spacer parts between the schurzen mounts. The spacer parts don't have a large surface area that they attach to so it made sense to install them after the fenders were in place to avoid them coming loose or getting skewed accidentally during the fender installation. I also did a test fit with the casemate to be sure everything was playing nice at this stage.



Next up will be the upper hull elements!

[406 Silverado]

Been waiting for this update Bill. It's Sunday, that means we get to see what you've done.
Nice clean work as we've come to expect from you my friend. Very nice indeed. Love that Zimm. Might have to invest in some of that resin Zim.

[tonylee-Rest In Peace]

Now we've got to wait another week.

Zimm job turned out well

Tony

[wbill76]

Thanks Rob! Atak sets are pretty nifty IMHO, they've become my option of choice especially since they've adopted with their newer sets the practice of "cloning" Dragon kit parts to go with the panels. That means not only good fit but also that things like mount holes and other details are also carried over. The panels still provide the option of damaging or otherwise banging up the zim if you're so inclined as well. Give 'em a whirl, you won't be disappointed!

Tony, thanks as well, will do my best to hold to the regular schedule.

[406 Silverado]

Will do Bill, when The right tank comes along. Will keep this noted. They will look great all chipped and damaged on a wreck.

[TRM]

WOW Bill, the Zimm is looking great! Definitely a cool option...will have to look into this!! Thanks!

[wbill76]

My pleasure T and thanks for the comments.