Boo,Like Prof,I've seen these with a full bar,and drivers bar only,so you can take your pick.BTW,if you're building a race version,would it even have carpet?
That's a good point Chris especially if building a dedicated race version but I'm basically doing a hybrid, something that I would like to own more so than either version, a road going race version . I've got to get myself a decent version of the cobra in model form but sadly and rather strangely its not a model that has been covered to a very high (Tamiya esque) standard so far
You're right Boo, despite its almost legendary status, it's not well covered by kit manufacturers.
Prof, thanks mate, yeah that's the one I'll likely get next, maybe a couple of them and I can then do the schemes I'd like to try. The only issues that are visible are easy fixes so I'll look into that kit a bit further. Hopefully the chassis and engine are a lot better than this kits.
Anyway guys, my bad, The roll bar IS in this kit. That'll teach me for not reading the instructions all the way through. There's no holes in the body so that you can leave the bars off without having to fill which is obviously the right way to go. I've cleaned up and put the pieces together and they look ok, they just need mounting points put on the ends. I'll get the body holes drilled now and leave the bars off till the bodywork is completely painted.
I've redone the carpets with the embossing powder and that is now drying, hopefully I won't mess that up this time.
As mentioned I redone the carpets, just a simple case of painting on thinned PVA glue, avoiding the non carpeted parts like the ash tray and gear stick surround, and then sprinkle on loads of embossing powder and leave it be to dry for about an hour before shaking off the excess powder.
I did get after pics but forgot to upload them so I'll do that tomorrow.
The roll bar has been cleaned up and trimmed to fit. The rear bar was too long for where I wanted the bar to sit and was overlapping the studs for the roof section. I then added three Zero's from a set of brass numbers to fit around the base for mounting points.
Its just dry fitted into the drilled out holes I made as it will be in the way and cause the paint application to be a bit dodgy.
Paint Guys : I've decided to go for RED WITH WHITE STRIPES
I just like the impact of it and because of the poor engine detail I think it would be best to get the look that most brings out the cars shape and that's red in my opinion. I'll do a blue one next time
Cheers buddy, yeah, I have a habit of not reading the destructions before a build but when I got the kit I thought I'd seen a roll bar so it was in the back of my mind. Then doubts set in because I can't remember ****
Mark...............the bars look fine mate!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I meant too show you this the other day.............it may be of interest being as your doing the car/bike style of builds at the mo
It`s called the Flexi -File and i wouldn`t be seen at the bench without it , they are superb buddy and quite cheap, Dicky very kindly gave one too me when we met at a show. The beauty of them is that they fit any contour perfectly (ideal for shelby shaped bodies with rounded arch and bodywork!!), they can slip into the smallest of areas including chassis/suspension parts etc, in fact any flat or curved surface really!!...........motorbike tanks, fuselages on aircraft etc, etc. I never use any type of file on anything but straight edges now, i used to have some curved ones but you got to be so careful on curved surfaces on showing panels , these just mold to the perfect shape.............you get half a dozen papers from coarse too fine and spares are available.........
`Boot`s score rating...........10/10
You won`t regret having one or two of these in ya modeling aids buddy............if i`m wrong you get to choose what i build next
Lookin fantastic brother! The carpet trick is a nice touch and im lovin the roll bars. The bars look spot on to me. If you google and look at several there are some subtle differences from car to car....height and thickness, but only slightly....to my eyes anyhow.
Chris, Boot's, Gary, cheers buddies, I've checked some pics and I reckon they are fine now, they looked fat in the images but with some paint on they'll be more to scale. Like you say Gary there's a few different types anyway so even a slight difference can be written off to that one.
Boot's, I have seen those but I didn't know how good they were, it sounds like I should'a got some when I had the chance. I'll grab some on my next ordering spree, thanks so much for the heads up on those. Would it be worth having a few of the actual metal tool parts, one for each for - course - medium - fine, or are the file strips easy or convenient to switch over ?
Going over the body with a fine tooth comb, whatever that's meant to mean, I came across a couple of issues that would have spoilt the look of the car. They are so easily missed but I've highlighted the area where they occur. Just around the front lights there's a very light fold that occurs in the plastic moulding and its essential to get those out as has been done in the pic to both sides and its now been final primed ready for the red base coat. If you see anything in this pic that looks a bit odd then please say so guys, its my last chance before painting to get it sorted out.
My sincere apologies for the pic quality here, its very difficult to capture black with the sony tablets camera and I'm forced to bring out the dark shadows with photoshop to try to show the blacks. It then makes it all look a bit washed out but you can see the basic concept of the carpeting when its finished. It should look better once I get the silver parts painted and once I get the pics with the new camera of course. You can see that the embossing powder is very much in scale for this 1:16 car. This stuff is finer than flocking and in my opinion would be better for the smaller scales than flocking. I just wish I could get a decent pic of it, I'll try outside tomorrow in the sunlight.
Well that's it for today other than some work I did on the windscreen. I dipped the 'glass' in Klear and it came out lovely. I then used a black sharpie to outline the edges as studying pics of the inner side of the screen showed that the rubber was visible around the outer edges inside the car. Pics of that tomorrow once I can pick it up to move it.
Hey Guys, thanks all of you for the feedback I do appreciate your comments.
Boots cheers for the info on those papers etc buddy, I'll get one of those for sure.
First things first my apologies for the slow going build so far. I've been spending most of my free time trying to source an alternative camera as I'm thinking of going towards more of a semi pro type camera and all the lens options are giving me headaches More on that tomorrow as I hope to buy a camera in the morning so I can finally get decent pics of this build.
I've hit a snag :
Going back to the windscreen guys. I picked it up today and noticed it was a bit grubby so I wiped it gently with a soft cloth. You guessed it (or maybe you didn't) the clear plastic has reacted to something and there's smears covering most of the windscreen now. I've tried washing it and its getting worse, like its contaminated with something that's eating away at the clear. I'll get pics when I have a proper camera as its not even worth trying to take a pic of that. I'm thinking I'll have to try to replace the windscreen with some clear plastic, like from some packaging.
Thanks Steve, yep thats exactly right buddy, the kit parts are overly thick like my ex. Since dry fitting it into the frame I've been a little concerned about its thickness as it doesn't sit flush with the back of the frame like it should, it's at least 0.5mm too deep on the back. With acetate (cheers buddy) it should be fairly flush against the frame and ultimately better looking. I had a whole load of it put by for this kind of thing but since the move I've not seen it. I just hope the wife didn't chuck it away
Leon, Joe, Luigi, thanks fellas. I've got a piece of clear acetate today which came with a free keyring I got with my new camera
Yay, I'm happy, I'm just waiting for the battery to charge up and I'll be off taking proper pics again.
Luigi, I'll polish the screen if the acetate fails to do the job properly. I had already dipped the screen in klear (future) and I'm concerned that this new formula of Klear is what has given me this issue in the first place. I dip all my canopies and I spent quite a bit of money getting four bottles of the new clear Klear over from the US so I really hope its not that which is to blame.
Mark, soz to here ya prob with the glazing , i reckon go with polish on this if you use the existing glass...........but then isn`t the scale issue a prob??............sorry mate i`m just playing `Devil`s Advocate` , i`m sure it`ll all come good buddy
I`ve got a bottle of the original `Klear`........i can take a pic of the ingredients and you can compare if it is the same with yours.......just outta shear bloody curiosity