Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Feb 26, 2014 11:37:11 GMT -5
Hiya fellas, I've already sent a pm to Gary re this question so I'm sure I'll be fine but anyway: Today I went into my LHS who I only usually use for paints but a sensibly priced Tamiya kit on the shelf caught my eye - their 105mm M4A3 Sherman - yum: www.kitreview.com/reviews/m4a3reviewcs_1.htmIt looks like typical Tamiya and has stacks of stuff for stowage etc (I'd say it's going to be an OOB build BUT I might replace the two part kit barrel as I'm not a fan of them). To the point: I was wondering why the box art (which you can see above) shows Periscope guards in place on the Driver and Co-Driver hatches YET no such parts are in the kit nor are called out for in the instructions. The hatches have the Periscopes moulded shut but no guards? Any suggestions fellas?Apart from this potential 'issue' I'm not going to tie myself in knots over accuracy. I's my first ever 1/35 Sherman build so I'll use it to get some practice on before tackling the really nice Dragon 'El Alamein Sherman' that I have in my stash! Have any of you built this kit before? How does it fare? Anything to watch out for etc? Yesterday I placed my order for two bottles of Mig's AMMO Range Washable White - thatwashable White paint will be perfect for a box art type scheme. Thanks guys
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Deleted
Member since: January 1970
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Dec 1, 2024 13:07:03 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2014 14:50:46 GMT -5
Peri guards were fitted just before or just after the Normandy landings (I think, not sure), with some Sherman's being retro fitted with them, and some never getting any, that might be why they are not included.
Tasca don't include them on some of their kits, and they use the above reason for not including them.
Not sure if that helps much tbh.
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 26, 2014 14:51:59 GMT -5
YES GO for it buddy! I have same kit in stash I think! Perfect way to practice your WW on it before you do it on better kits...
I am curious how you like the new product WW from AMMO....
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Post by rbaer on Feb 26, 2014 17:46:36 GMT -5
All the "big hatch" Shermans (which your kit is) had periscope guards from the factory. Older, "small hatch" tanks usually got them during state-side over-haul. There are a bunch of inexpensive PE sets for Shermans around that have them. As to why Tamiya molded all the periscopes in the closed position, my guess would be: cost. Simulating open periscopes is pretty easy, just involves a touch of the white stuff.
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Hinksy
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Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Feb 26, 2014 19:07:43 GMT -5
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Post by Tojo72 on Feb 26, 2014 21:41:02 GMT -5
No way,a Sherman,what next modern.Have fun with it Ben.
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pantherf..-Email Not Valid
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"Best Job I've Ever Had"
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Jul 29, 2013 15:24:50 GMT -5
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Post by pantherf..-Email Not Valid on Feb 27, 2014 6:55:20 GMT -5
Oh, I'm all on board with this... BOTH techniques really look good and easy. Thanks for the video! You should put that Sherman build over at the Sherman Shop too. Jeff
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 27, 2014 8:31:40 GMT -5
Great video clip! Thanks for posting buddy!
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Feb 27, 2014 11:40:08 GMT -5
Looks good doesn't it eh? I got in after lunch and what was waiting for me - only two bottles of Washable White! I'll try it out first on my current wip Hetzer and on completion of that I'll be jumping straight onto this build to start my Ardennes Whitewashed Sherman! I also remembered I've got a brand new set of AK's OD Colour Modulation set which means the basecoat paint is sorted! I'll definately be blogging it as I'm a big Axis armour fan and as a result my Sherman knowledge is very limited! What's this "Sherman Shop" all about, btw?Cheers fellas, Ben
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pantherf..-Email Not Valid
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"Best Job I've Ever Had"
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Post by pantherf..-Email Not Valid on Feb 27, 2014 11:43:45 GMT -5
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Post by deafpanzer on Feb 27, 2014 20:29:35 GMT -5
Yep you know BigJohn here? He is running that forum and I think you should post your build there if you want to learn more about Shermans.
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 7, 2014 11:59:50 GMT -5
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 7, 2014 13:24:38 GMT -5
Yeah - I did find this one but it seems to be omiting some important information re. dimensions! www.scribd.com/doc/192761259/Sherman-Fix (click on this link and click 'see more' for an expanded view What is meant by the stiffening strips and the area shown in grey and called upper hull - mainly what is the 45 degree part for item # B27? Sorry if I'm sounding totally idiotic here guys but this diagram doesn't make much sense to me! WAAAAAH! Thanks for posting the link though buddy! Ben
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Post by rbaer on Mar 7, 2014 13:57:32 GMT -5
I just took a quick peek, but they look to be actual size. I would think they're meant to be printed, cut out and traced on to plastic sheet. Neat idea, I usually just trace the hull top and trim to fit. Also seems like Formations used to sell ready-to-use resin parts.
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Hinksy
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Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 7, 2014 14:25:04 GMT -5
I just took a quick peek, but they look to be actual size. I would think they're meant to be printed, cut out and traced on to plastic sheet. Neat idea, I usually just trace the hull top and trim to fit. Also seems like Formations used to sell ready-to-use resin parts. Ironically I just figured that out too - after spending the last hour trying. Yep - totally idiotic The PDF was sticking in 125% view and needed sorting so it's a case of trace and cut - I've printed them out now! Do you have any ideas what the angled piece is for to accomodate part B27? I've found the proper link now: www.archertransfers.com/PAGE_Recall.htmlScroll to the bottom and on the left thers a link to the template, handily titled 'Sherman sponson filler template'. Hope this helps some others out there, Ben
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Post by rbaer on Mar 7, 2014 16:07:11 GMT -5
Part B27 is the final drive cover. Makes sense.
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 8, 2014 17:09:57 GMT -5
Hi guys, I've got the build underway - woohoo! I never thought I'd really get into Shermans but after looking at stuff on the web today and the Dragon Sherman in my stash and this one on my bench I reckon I could really get into these! About three years ago I tried to build a Dragon Sherman and failed - MISERABLY! I still have a chunk of the parts in my spares tub so I'm replacing any iffy Tamiya parts that can be replaced with bits from my spares tub (ie tools, the row of bolts between the Transmission housing and upper hull joint etc). I only had time to get a bit done this evening so all the suspension units are on along with drive sprockets and idlers. Plasticard Sponson fillers have been made and are ready to go when needed. I also remembered that I had an (unopened) set of AK Colour Modulation paints for OD Green. That's the paint questions answered! I'll be building the winterised 'Ardennes' version so that recently purchased Washable White AMMO paint will be perfect! I have two questions if I may?i) I want to modify the drivers hatch so his periscope is open (I have loads of clear-part periscopes). Apart from literally chopping the moulded closed cover off is there a better way of doing this.
ii) I also want to make periscope guards (not provided with the kit) so was thinking about using wire bent to shape and the two little cross pieces glued or soldered. I haven't got any in the spares tub. Is there a better way to go about making these.I was going to build all OOB but have ordered an ABER 105mm barrel and hope to source one of the RB .50cal upgrade sets but they seem to be thin on the ground at present and my usual RB stockists are all out of stock according to their websites so I'll make some calls on Monday. There's an annual big modelling show held fairly local to me in a couple of weeks so hopefully I'll find something there if I fail - some stowage will be good too. I've got loads of German Jerry cans and German satchels so I'll see what I have in the spares tub. Here's where I am - sorry there's not more to show but I'll be starting on the turret tomorrow so bear with me Sponson fillers and paint: Remember, I'm a TOTAL noobie when it comes to Shermans so any help or advice will be greatly apreciated - no matter how daft you think it is Mr Boggs has been most helpful thus far so I'll continue to exploit his knowledge along the way;) Cheers fellas, Ben
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 9, 2014 11:21:48 GMT -5
Hi fellas, Got a bit more done whilst watching the England game (Rugby Football - named after my home town no less). All the tools are on and as a nice touch I've been able to replace all but one of the tools with Dragon spares from the tub - the locating holes all match perfectly so they add a nice touch - managed to replace the rear rack too. Lights and guards are on up front - hull mounted MG also replaced with a far better Dragon piece and Sponson fillers are now in. Loving the build so far - I'll definately be building more Sherman variants. Thanks for looking guys, Ben
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Post by TRM on Mar 9, 2014 11:55:15 GMT -5
Looking like you are definitely heading in the right direction Ben!! I love these things when they are all dirtied up!! Keep up the great work!!
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Post by deafpanzer on Mar 9, 2014 15:03:53 GMT -5
Good move replacing tools with spare parts from Dragon! Looking sharp...
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 9, 2014 16:42:57 GMT -5
Seeing all these shermans being built is giving me an itch to dig one out of the stash myself. Looking good for a first time Sherman build, before you know it you'll have half dozen on the go. Peter Strange that Pete, I've just found myself on my usual model supplier website looking at Shermans! A buddy on you tube said that I should be fitting a rectangular block in front of the rear lifting eyes - acts as a bump stop for the engine hatches apparently and were fitted to MOST M4A3's (they are numbered #1): Should I be looking at fixing these? Thanks guys, Ben
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Post by wbill76 on Mar 9, 2014 17:14:15 GMT -5
Making good progress on this one Ben, keep at it!
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Post by rbaer on Mar 9, 2014 20:36:44 GMT -5
Good progress, Ben. Yes, the Sherman you are building should have the rests for the open engine hatches. They're very easy to make from plastic card. Not to hi-jack, but they're visible in the pic below:
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 10, 2014 8:35:46 GMT -5
Good progress, Ben. Yes, the Sherman you are building should have the rests for the open engine hatches. They're very easy to make from plastic card. Not to hi-jack, but they're visible in the pic below: Hi rbaer, Thanks buddy - that's got to be the easiest piece of scratching ever! GUYS - Don't ever worry about posting pics af your own builds on my blog as I'm learning all over again here! I've managed to order the 105mm Aber barrel and I've ordered a couple of sets of the RB .50cal upgrade kits as no doubt I'll be wanting another one pretty soon too. I have two questions relating to rbaers build in his photo:I've been looking at a lot of Sherman photos (the real things and scale models). It seems that the weld lines are very prominent and as you can see on rbaers build he's added axtra weld detail. i) What's the best way to add this extra weld bead detail? I'm thinking that I'd have to use some very thin plasticard strip like from Evergreen. This could be put into position where the weld lines need to be and softened up with cement and worked to produce the 'beading' effect?What should I do about the existing weld detail? Should I remove that by CAREFULLY scraping away the existing detail with a sharp blade then putting my thin strips in their place? Is there any other method of doing this i.e. using Filler and if plastic strip is the way to go would stretched sprue suffice? ii) Apart from the weld detail I'd like to add some chain to the filler caps. I've got some Tank Workshop chain which should be small enough. Where should the Chain start and finish on the caps?I hope some of you can help me with these question? Many thanks, Ben
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Post by Tojo72 on Mar 10, 2014 11:01:13 GMT -5
Nice progress Ben
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2014 11:58:35 GMT -5
Awesome work thus far!
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 10, 2014 12:48:59 GMT -5
Cheers guys! I've just done a quick hour on her now - basically just fitting something that actually resemble handles on the engine deck covers, making and fitting the two 'engine cover' bump stops that sit in front of the rear lifting eyes and fitting some chain to the filler caps. I'm not much of a super detailer but after looking at photos it would seem that these items should be there and were an easy fix. It all looks a lot better now - I'm hoping my new Aber barrel will turn up in the next couple of days and I'm not sure what RB Models are like for UK delivery seeing as they are in Poland? Apparently they are pretty good. They are sending me a couple of .50cal upgrade sets so I won't need them until later anyway. Again, not a lot to show but it's all progress and I need to stretch this build out as I don't want to go away leaving a build just started. Turret tomorrow then onto modifying the hatches and making Periscope guards! Thanks for looking guys - if anyone has 'best ideas' regarding making the 'scope guards and modifying the hatches please chime in. Not forgetting the weld lines! Alan, our group head, said these things are addictive and I can see why now! Cheers fellas, Ben
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Post by rbaer on Mar 10, 2014 12:52:57 GMT -5
Ben, my technique for doing larger welds is pretty easy, if a little time-consuming. I use plastic rod stock, usually Evergreen but sometimes Plastruct, normally .020", which is about .8mm. I place the rod where the weld will be and attach it with some type of liquid cement. I've used Tamiya extra thin, Tenax7R, and MEK in bulk, bought at the hardware store. Once the rod is well-set, I come back and soften it with another application of liquid cement, and as soon as it's slightly soft, texture it with a small chisel blade (made from cheap eyeglass screw drivers) by slowly making small slices in the rod. Another application of cement softens the "slices" and I can then "push" them sideways, and they take on the appearance of a single-pass weld. For really large welds I'll lay a couple of pieces of rod stock parallel and do them separately. Re the Sherman hull welds: Tamiya thoughtfully did the weld beads as depressed areas, creating the perfect guide for laying the rod. On the hull sides, sometimes I'll file an indentation in the hull, sometimes I used plastic half-round: depends on what I have laying around.
Edit: Your post popped while I was composing mine in between shipment notices.... Looking good. One thing: the engine grill rests you're done should be vertical in relation the the ground. If it's not fixable, no worries, they ere sometimes damaged in use.
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Post by bullardino on Mar 10, 2014 12:56:33 GMT -5
Oh, you're doing a Sherman. I had to find it out on FB to see it... Can't miss this, I love shermans Re the weld question, I'm not as good as Russ and John, but I've learned a lesson well. When doing a Sherman, you're better watch reference pics. They were all but standard built...
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Mar 10, 2014 13:37:21 GMT -5
Excellent stuff! Thanks for dropping by Luis Thanks for the info rbaer The weld detailing sounds pretty much like what I had in mind but thanks for confirming the best method. The bump stop thing was supposed to be straight but must have tipped slightly whilst I took the photos - I should be able to correct that now. I think I was replying to your pm when you were posting this so I think we are all square now! Thanks again, Ben
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