Calling Obi Wild Bill.....

[joelsmith]

You are my only hope. Since you seen to have the "Dot Filter" technique to a science. could you list which colors would be best for a specific color scheme? For example. German post 43 tri-color, Olive Drab, IDF Sinai Grey. I'm sure most of us thing it is self explanatory, however, I am color blind, and do not wish to show a "Pink Panzer or any other totally wrong scheme;-). Thanks in advance for any and all help, Joel

[wbill76]

Mar 28, 2014 15:50:25 GMT -5 joelsmith said:

You are my only hope. Since you seen to have the "Dot Filter" technique to a science. could you list which colors would be best for a specific color scheme? For example. German post 43 tri-color, Olive Drab, IDF Sinai Grey. I'm sure most of us thing it is self explanatory, however, I am color blind, and do not wish to show a "Pink Panzer or any other totally wrong scheme;-). Thanks in advance for any and all help, Joel

Well, this is something that's open to a lot of interpretation Joel! It all depends on what you're trying to do with a particular scheme in terms of altering it via the 'filter' approach. Some prefer to use very small amounts of 'bright' colors like red, yellow, and blue to create very subtle differences in the hues (especially when it comes to three-tone or other contrasting schemes). Others, like myself, tend to use it more for fading/weathering of the existing colors. When going for the fading & dirt/grime approach, I use lighter colors vs. the basecoat. So on a three-tone scheme, I will typically use Flat White, Raw Sienna, and a lightened version of Dunkelgelb for example after I've applied (but not sealed) an overall wash, usually Raw Umber. This is so that there's opportunity to create both light and dark tones in the process of the dot filtering. When working on a Panzer Gray scheme, I tend to stay away from white to avoid creating a 'chalky' effect and instead will substitute Light Gray and use fewer dots as a little bit of light color on a dark base will go a very long way.

For darker colors like Russian armor green or OD, you probably would stay away from using super light colors and instead go more with yellow (particularly on an OD scheme) or tan colors to still provide some contrast but without creating something too garish in the process. Primary colors are 'strong' for a reason, so very small amounts of them tend to produce a powerful result if you're not too careful.

You aren't the only color-blind member, Marc (dupes) is also color-blind and he can probably chime in here as well on how he copes with it. Being color-blind I'm sure adds another level of challenge to trying to do dot-filtering precisely because it's usually a very subtle-result process, so you may not be able to see it as clearly vs. someone who is not color-blind.

There's no one-size-fits-all recipe unfortunately for all the different schemes out there. That's why companies like AK, Vallejo, and Mig make the different wash/filter sets that they do. Those are attempts to try to create at least a 'range' of tools for use on a specific type of subject to try to remove some of the guesswork in the process.

HTH!

[joelsmith]

Thank you, Bill for your informative reply. Being color blind is a problem, however, using FS XXXXX, or RLM XX color paints help. I'm just trying to improve my weathering beyond a light/dark wash, and drybrushing with a lighter shade of the basic color. Thanks again, Joel.