Don't waste money on name brand plastic cement!!

[mrversatile]

I use a small bottle of Methel Ethel Ketone (MEK) on my workbench. Works just as well, or better, and a gallon costs $20.00 at Lowes. I suspect that some of the name brands use some of this, or a derivative of same, for their formulas. MEK is hazardous if used as a solvent or thinner when sprayed. (I use it occasionally for some car paints), but in the small quantity as an adhesive it is not.

[JimD]

I think most all liquid cements are some combination of MEK and other things. I've considered getting some, but I love Tamiya Extra Thin too much and it goes a long way too.

Does the MEK flow as well as Tamiya (if you're familiar with it?) And how do you typically apply it?

[TRM]

Thanks Gil! Not sure enough people know about this little hobby-save! I have been using MEK for a few years now. Even the quart size can, which runs about $10 or so, should last for years! Always good to have good ventilation while using any adhesives; they can wreak havoc on the lungs and the kidneys!

Jimmy, MEK has the same viscosity as Tamiya thin and the properties are virtually the same. Save the old bottles and fill up with the MEK! All can be applied the same way with a fine tipped brush or applicator!

[mrversatile]

T, couldn't have said it better myself. I have been using it for years now and will never go back. It even has the same performance as Testors cement when cementing and manipulating those Dragon Magic Tracks.

[destrozas]

if you add a few small parts of strues reduces its strength but remains MEK, I bought my first boat extra thin tamiya and after that a chemical Friend analyze the composition alone I use MEK, the nitro-cellulose solvent with strues also doing very well although it is slower drying and not so capillarity

[legend]

I buy 5 litres of recycled dichloromethane for £25 including postage. the first was cheaper than that but lasted 8 years. the cost of carriage is as much as the product! so if I collected it would be approx. £12 for 5 litres

a real saving!

bill

[doogsatx]

I've been using MEK for about a year and a half. Properties are similar to Tamiya Extra Thin though in my opinion it's a bit thinner and hotter. Which I like.

[WigWag Workshop]

Good Day Folks!

If you do a search for the MSDS, you will find that Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is a mixture of 50% butyl acetate and 50% acetone

Also, search the MSDS on other "Common" hobby consumables that we use, like Tamiya X-20A Thinner :-) You will be surprised how much you can save, especially with a 40% off cupon - a 10 year supply of acrylic thinner for Tamiya paints can be had for about $20

-Steven

[detailfreak]

will MEK join resin to styrene ?

[doogsatx]

Mar 14, 2015 12:31:15 GMT -5 detailfreak said:

will MEK join resin to styrene ?

No. It's a solvent welder, so it's great for styrene to styrene but pretty useless otherwise.

[legend]

I also use dissolved sprue or plastic card offcuts as a filler. bonds really well to plastic(naturally it would!) and fills gaps between styrene parts well.

bill

[dupes]

Feb 9, 2015 16:23:55 GMT -5 WigWag Workshop said:

Also, search the MSDS on other "Common" hobby consumables that we use, like Tamiya X-20A Thinner :-)

Not familiar with the MSDS...but I've always wanted to know what xf-20 was made of. Care to share?

[doogsatx]

MSDS is like a data sheet that details chemical composition of pretty much any chemical sold.

[dupes]

I must be doing something wrong (assuming it's at www.msds.com?) - not getting any results for X-20 (or any iterations) or Tamiya.

[Scott Fraser]

Mar 14, 2015 19:29:45 GMT -5 dupes said:

I must be doing something wrong (assuming it's at www.msds.com?) - not getting any results for X-20 (or any iterations) or Tamiya.

I recently read that Tamiya is a glycol-based paint, not a true acrylic.

No one has mentioned xylene. It is another aromatic hydrocarbon that works as a solvent (glue) for polystyrene. It is not as 'hot' as dichloromethane, methyl ethyl ketone,  methylene chloride, etc. nor is it as toxic. It was used as the carrier for Floquil Railroad Paints, the original formulation, and sold by them as Dio-Sol.

Xylene is also excellent for airbrushing enamels. It does not 'curdle' ModelMaster or Humbrol after years in the bottle. I also use it for cleaning brushes and airbrushes. $10 will buy a gallon of xylene at a paint store.

While we're on the topic, "automotive spot body butty" can be use as filler instead of name brand modelling fillers. Find it in automotive stores in giant tubes that will last a lifetime. Mine was $8, but that was a long time ago. It can be thinned with xylene to produce a slurry or used straight from the tube.

Name-brand products can almost always be replaced with generic products from here and there. Much better than shelling out for Squander Shop's special  "Waterslide Decal Activating Solution" at $5 an ounce.

Regards
Scott Fraser

[JimD]

Bondo/spot putty is the best kept secret in the hobby. I loathed any time I would have to putty when I was relying on hobby putties. Stuff like Tamiya putty and the like shrink like crazy even after long periods of time. The Bondo does shrink a tab bit but I've not once needed more than a second application unless air bubbles happened to form in the application. Thin it down with some Mr. Color lacquer thinner and it's awesome stuff.

Made the switch a couple of years ago and haven't looked back.

I'm about half way through the tube I bought for half the price of one tube of the hobby specific stuff.

[mrversatile]

You guys are correct about the Bondo Spot putty. It is easy and convenient since it is a single part putty which dries fast. The less used the better though. Using too much accentuates the shrinking and negates its effectiveness. When I am building cars and need to fill low spots or sections I usually turn to a two part polyester putty which doesn't shrink ever and sands super smooth.