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Post by JimD on May 1, 2015 17:00:15 GMT -5
Jimmydel, I will get this same model kit and does worth to get aires cockpit or may not recommend? leave it original cockpit alone than being a pain in butt? just ask for your experience. I plan to put it down the list for aftermarket for this model to buy in future. No. Don't buy the Aires cockpit. It's a pain in the butt and I couldn't get it to come close to fitting...and I'm not one to give up. I just exhausted everything I can think of. If you want some cockpit detail I would say go with some resin bang seats and perhaps a PE set if you are so inclined. Save that $30 for some exhaust cans or something.
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aeroaustin
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Posts: 115
Jan 9, 2015 23:45:38 GMT -5
Jan 9, 2015 23:45:38 GMT -5
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Post by aeroaustin on May 1, 2015 23:29:21 GMT -5
No. Don't buy the Aires cockpit. It's a pain in the butt and I couldn't get it to come close to fitting...and I'm not one to give up. I just exhausted everything I can think of. If you want some cockpit detail I would say go with some resin bang seats and perhaps a PE set if you are so inclined. Save that $30 for some exhaust cans or something. I can see how it struggle with aires. I don't want mess the kit that cost the more money than one little thing for screw up.. Better of spend on interior details from PE and some add exteriors like brassin, ordnance weapons decals it make the kit look perfection than screw up. thank for your advice.
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Post by JimD on May 2, 2015 10:04:15 GMT -5
No. Don't buy the Aires cockpit. It's a pain in the butt and I couldn't get it to come close to fitting...and I'm not one to give up. I just exhausted everything I can think of. If you want some cockpit detail I would say go with some resin bang seats and perhaps a PE set if you are so inclined. Save that $30 for some exhaust cans or something. I can see how it struggle with aires. I don't want mess the kit that cost the more money than one little thing for screw up.. Better of spend on interior details from PE and some add exteriors like brassin, ordnance weapons decals it make the kit look perfection than screw up. thank for your advice. Absolutely. The Eduard weapons set runs about the same price ($35). I got started on them last night and they are really nice. Awful cell phone pic. I'll have some better ones once I finish the Sidewinders and get them primed up.
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doogsatx
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Feb and Sept 2014_ MoM Winner
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Nov 14, 2012 21:29:10 GMT -5
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Post by doogsatx on May 2, 2015 11:44:01 GMT -5
Those look really nice.
I had a rage-encountered with some Eduard weapons recently - was going to use some AIM-9Ls on the AH-1Z but when I pulled them out EVERY SINGLE ONE was warped.
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aeroaustin
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Post by aeroaustin on May 3, 2015 12:50:27 GMT -5
Absolutely. The Eduard weapons set runs about the same price ($35). I got started on them last night and they are really nice. Awful cell phone pic. I'll have some better ones once I finish the Sidewinders and get them primed up. Look good and more details than the kit?
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aeroaustin
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Jan 9, 2015 23:45:38 GMT -5
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Post by aeroaustin on May 3, 2015 12:52:06 GMT -5
Those look really nice. I had a rage-encountered with some Eduard weapons recently - was going to use some AIM-9Ls on the AH-1Z but when I pulled them out EVERY SINGLE ONE was warped. Doog, How it bad? it noticeable? or minor? it can be hit or miss?
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doogsatx
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Feb and Sept 2014_ MoM Winner
Member since: November 2012
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Nov 14, 2012 21:29:10 GMT -5
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Post by doogsatx on May 3, 2015 14:26:02 GMT -5
Those look really nice. I had a rage-encountered with some Eduard weapons recently - was going to use some AIM-9Ls on the AH-1Z but when I pulled them out EVERY SINGLE ONE was warped. Doog, How it bad? it noticeable? or minor? it can be hit or miss? Very noticeable. I blame the blister packs and the way the foam is stuffed in behind them. It's not something I've really noticed outside of the Sidewinders - think it has to do with how thin they are.
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Post by JimD on May 6, 2015 9:13:13 GMT -5
The Sidewinders wound up being a little fussy. They are thin and very slinky. No warping, but mine weren't in blister packs...just a little zip bag in the box.
The canards were flimsy as heck...thankfully you get extras...I used them all. Primed up they look awesome. The best improvement over the kit parts for sure.
I'm way behind on pics, but I'll have some up today.
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Post by JimD on May 6, 2015 17:19:01 GMT -5
Spent the past couple of hours getting the heat shielding painted. This really isn't photographing well at all. I'm hopeful when it's surrounded by paint and not grey primer it will show better. There's more variation to it and I think my light is just bleaching it out. Base of Alclad Duraluminum followed by shading and streaking with Steel, Jet Exhaust, Pale Burnt Metal, and Magnesium. The cans are Jet Exhaust and Exhaust manifold treated with transparent blue. This photo is more representative, but still not the greatest.
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Post by Leon on May 6, 2015 17:46:22 GMT -5
Heat shields are looking good Jimmy!
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Post by wbill76 on May 7, 2015 10:24:01 GMT -5
Nice work on the cans and exhaust areas Jimmy! I think you're right about the background/contrast, sometimes metallic effects/finishes can be the hardest ones to get to show properly in photos depending on the background/lighting and what the camera wants to 'see' vs. what's really there!
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Post by JimD on May 7, 2015 11:11:53 GMT -5
Yup, I'm not stranger to the lies of my camera. Lol. I also have this problem when I try to photo weathering. Somehow though the final pics usually pick things up better. This is bumming me out because it looks great to my naked eye, but honestly the camera is making it look...not so good.
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Post by deafpanzer on May 7, 2015 13:05:24 GMT -5
Catching up... those weapons look pretty good! Great start on the cans!
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Post by wbill76 on May 8, 2015 17:37:46 GMT -5
Yup, I'm not stranger to the lies of my camera. Lol. I also have this problem when I try to photo weathering. Somehow though the final pics usually pick things up better. This is bumming me out because it looks great to my naked eye, but honestly the camera is making it look...not so good. The 'in hand' look is all that really matters, but that doesn't help with the frustration of trying to share it with others unfortunately! Sometimes different angles and lighting can help but only so much. Does it look any different with a darker backdrop vs. the white?
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Post by dupes on May 9, 2015 13:30:31 GMT -5
Mmmmmm. Lovely. Question - do you find it easier to do NMF parts first, then mask and paint camo? I guess I've always thought that the other way around was preferable, but that's due to my thoughts that metallics don't have particularly good adhesion. Is Alclad not that way?
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Post by JimD on May 9, 2015 14:17:21 GMT -5
Mmmmmm. Lovely. Question - do you find it easier to do NMF parts first, then mask and paint camo? I guess I've always thought that the other way around was preferable, but that's due to my thoughts that metallics don't have particularly good adhesion. Is Alclad not that way? Funny you should mention adhesion. What I did here was sprayed the Duraluminum. I waited a day and sprayed down a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss. I do not know what I was thinking doing that...anyway...I then layered the other colors over it, and when I went to mask last night it lifted all of the Alclad that was put on top of the gloss right off...clean as a whistle. Of course you shouldn't spray lacquer over gloss...I'm just incredibly dumb sometimes. So I stripped it and it's back to square one. About to do the second color now... I'm actually usually what I call a "reverse" painter. So yeah...normally I do main stuff, mask that off and do detail areas like this, or wheel wells and that sorta thing...for whatever reason I decided to tackle the NMF first...I guess because in all the Phantoms I've done in the past (pre Alclad with acrylics) I was never satisfied with the results and wanted to focus on that. To answer your question though...Alclad holds up to masking flawlessly. It's really rock hard if you spray it over fully dried primer and not acrylics. I have seen it melt enamel, so I wouldn't want to be doing something like this in reverse if I had used enamels and had any overspray onto the area. I've used MM Metalizers in the past and they will lift even with sealer...so I know that's a concern, but I've not had Alclad give me problems with tape before.
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venom1
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Oct 10, 2012 2:40:03 GMT -5
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Post by venom1 on May 10, 2015 23:59:44 GMT -5
Dupes, I have used both Model Master Metalizers and Alclads. As has already been said, Metalizer paints are very fragile and will lift quite easily. Many years ago I built a 1/48 F-15 and I left the Metalizer until very last, I painted and decalled the remainder of the aircraft before painting the underside metal areas to ensure they were not damaged. On the flip side, when I built my Aggressor F-15, it was originally going to be a Japanese Aggressor, but I lost interest in it right after I had painted the Alclad engine areas and masked them up ready for colour. It went in a box for well over 12 months before I finally found my mojo on the kit and completed it. When I finally removed the masking after well over 12 months, there was absolutely no damage to the Alclad paint and not one speck of it lifted! This stuff is rock hard and very resilient when dry. Really is chalk and cheese between this and Metalizer paint. Trust me, you will have no problems with it ever lifting! Cheers, Sam
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Post by JimD on May 28, 2015 23:39:59 GMT -5
Sorry for the drought folks. I got dragged to on vacation for 2 weeks. We got back Sunday, but all that bench time since has gone to an under the radar project with an upcoming deadline. But with that in the sit and wait stage I got some time on the (other, big ) Phantom today. Totally forgot I had redone the heat shielding before I wrapped it up in tape, so I'll show that when the masking comes off I guess. Anyway, began work on the underside. I opted not to black base since I'm not really liking the way it darkens the colors. I intended to do a blending thing, but that didn't work well here since even white over the camo grey isn't light enough. I did a bit of preshading but will leave weathering to deal with things from here out. Mr. Color Wanted to share a pic of the things that go boom. I planned to mask and spray the fuses of the bombs but found them needing more OD, so that will be tomorrow. I'll then shoot them with gloss for some decal work. The Brassin stuff is really nice. The Sidewinders are dainty, so use care with them. Fortunately, mine weren't blister packed, so no warping.
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Post by TRM on May 29, 2015 5:37:30 GMT -5
Welcome back to your project Jimmy!! Looking good my friend!!
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Post by deafpanzer on May 29, 2015 9:54:17 GMT -5
Welcome back!!! Missiles look perfect and ready for action!
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Post by wbill76 on May 29, 2015 12:05:12 GMT -5
Wondered what had happened to you...vacations can make you go dark...and sometimes make you wish you had a vacation to recover from the vacation! Good to see you back at work on the Mig Killer.
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Post by JimD on May 29, 2015 12:37:25 GMT -5
Wondered what had happened to you...vacations can make you go dark...and sometimes make you wish you had a vacation to recover from the vacation! Good to see you back at work on the Mig Killer. Yup, sorry, I know you all thought you got rid of me. Lol I missed being at the bench a little bit, but the vacation was great and really needed
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aeroaustin
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Jan 9, 2015 23:45:38 GMT -5
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Post by aeroaustin on May 29, 2015 15:14:20 GMT -5
Jimmy, color looks great... also weapons too.. add any textures on bombs? or leave it natural?
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Post by JimD on May 29, 2015 23:21:24 GMT -5
Jimmy, color looks great... also weapons too.. add any textures on bombs? or leave it natural? Nope. No texture. I've never done it and just had too much on my plate here to experiment with that right now. I'll probably be doing it soon on another build though. More paint tonight. Some simple masking and off the the earth tone. Sprayed opaque base and then post-shaded with lighter and darker colors and finally blended it back in with the base color.
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aeroaustin
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Jan 9, 2015 23:45:38 GMT -5
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Post by aeroaustin on May 30, 2015 2:12:49 GMT -5
Love the smell of paints in the morning!
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Post by TRM on May 31, 2015 8:24:13 GMT -5
Some really great stuff there Jimmy!! Love the painting! Working my courage up right now to tackle not one...but two things with wings!!
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Post by dupes on May 31, 2015 8:32:07 GMT -5
Looking good, Jimmy. Time for some green! Some really great stuff there Jimmy!! Love the painting! Working my courage up right now to tackle not one...but two things with wings!! DO IT
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Post by wbill76 on May 31, 2015 13:08:55 GMT -5
Looking good so far Jimmy! You know we are in trouble when even Todd is considering not one but TWO builds with wings.
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Post by wing_nut on May 31, 2015 14:13:24 GMT -5
I like what's going on there. Once you work your magic and get that all blended and weathered that is gonna be bad moo Phantom
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Post by JimD on May 31, 2015 15:26:06 GMT -5
Thanks for checking in fellas. Glad to have you along for the ride. Yesterday was awesome. Home alone so it was a marathon bench session. I got the medium green down. Same post-shading process as before. Worked on other fiddly things a bit and later last night I got to masking off for the dark green. Wanted to spray, but it was close to 2 AM and I decided to call it a nigh, but I got it on this morning. Did have a bit of an issue with Alclad. The Steel which was layered over the Aluminum pulled with the Tamiya tape. (I know it looks above as if it was masked with blue tape...that was over the Tamiya for overspray purposes. I'll have to fix this clearly. Next I need to handle the nose and some green ID band bits on the canopy and tail. Then I have to figure out how I'm going to handle the heat shielding. I don't like the streaking with Alclad thing...so I'm not sure how I'll address that....I'm open to ideas.
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