willc453
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Member since: April 2017
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Apr 14, 2017 13:16:42 GMT -5
Apr 14, 2017 13:16:42 GMT -5
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Post by willc453 on Jun 15, 2017 1:07:45 GMT -5
After 15 years of being away from modeling, getting back into it, but have questions as I don't remember how I did it back then. My go to paints at the time were Floquils lacquer based paints because they could "bite" into the plastic. My favorite primer was SP lettering grey. But things change, like Floquil's lacquer paints no longer available like they used to be. On those, used lacquer thinner, while also using Model Masters enamel paint which I THINK I used regular paint thinner. Also used a water based paint that I can't remember the name of, but have been picking up some Model Masters water based paint lately.
Can I use regular paint thinner on Model Masters enamel or do I have to use their thinner? On water based stuff, I remember adding a drop of liquid dish soap along with water to thin the paint out because usually it was too thick to use thru my airbrush. As for figures, checked Youtube and it doesn't seem anyone's priming their figures, but applying the water based paint directly onto the figure/ vehicle. I thought the paint wouldn't stick unless it had a good primer. Push comes to shove, can pick up spray cans of lacquer based primer to do the job. And why does it seem everyone's priming their vehicles with black? To give a different shade of the primary color? Thanks in advance for any help given.
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Tojo72
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Nov 14, 2012 19:46:28 GMT -5
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Post by Tojo72 on Jun 15, 2017 4:12:09 GMT -5
Welcome back to the hobby. Yes,you can use regular hardware store thinner on your enamel paint. As far as your acrylics,I find it best to use the manufacturers thinners such as Tamiya,Vallejo,and Modelmaster. I prome my figures and models with rattlecan primers like Mr Surfacer 1200 or Tamiya Extra Fine. Many use different colors to prime their vehicles including black,it does help with with shading and modulation.
Im sure you will get lots of help here on our forum,so ask away.
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afvfan
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Bob
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Dec 10, 2012 17:32:38 GMT -5
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Post by afvfan on Jun 15, 2017 14:07:38 GMT -5
Spray cans can be used, however, some have a tendency to put out too much paint. That can be a real disadvantage if you're working with something with a lot of fine details.
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sturmbird
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Jun 21, 2012 13:51:45 GMT -5
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Post by sturmbird on Jun 16, 2017 17:18:29 GMT -5
I am hearing that they are about to be discontinued Gary
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John Everett
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Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
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Post by John Everett on Jun 18, 2017 1:56:43 GMT -5
Hello Will,
The questions on paint could fill the whole internet. The brand you should use depends on any number of factors: fumes, type of airbrush, budget, style of model, the list goes on.
General rules: Avoid painting models with a paint brush, get a good quality airbrush (more internet info there than we can talk about).
Acrylics, Vellejo being the most popular, can be useful but will generally clog an airbrush after a few seconds or a few minutes. They're temperamental, but useful. (Vellejo is unbeatable for figure painting.)
Enamels like Testors or Humbrol, again useful but obsolete in the face a better paint which will provide better results such as Tamiya, Mister Color or Mister Paint (also called MRP).
Hardware store thinners such as Mineral spirits, Lacquer thinner or good old 90% isopropyl alcohol will work just fine. But there have been some interesting developments out of Japan in the form of unicorn blood by the name of Mister Leveling Thinner. (It's meant to be used with Mister Color but is also compatible with both Tamiya and MRP). Don't use the unicorn blood for cleaning. It's too expensive. Use the cheap hardware stuff for that.
This is just the leading edge to a very, very deep topic.
Watch, ask, learn, paint one yourself. Within 6 months you won't believe what you will be turning out.
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willc453
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Member since: April 2017
Posts: 85
Apr 14, 2017 13:16:42 GMT -5
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Post by willc453 on Jun 19, 2017 21:08:40 GMT -5
John, thanks for the info. Painted D&D 25mm figures for about 10 years, so used to using a brush. But always primed 'em with Floquil SP lettering grey along with my aircraft/armor models during those 30 years. Used a single action Paasche for 30 years or so and last year, got a double action one real cheap via Evilbay. Right now, there's no hobby shop in town with my only choice being Hobby Lobby or Michaels with them carrying Model Master or the small Testors paints. For a real hobby shop, it's a 2 hour or so drive. Of course when I do go, will take a mortgage out on the house as I only want to do this once a year. As I keep discovering, things have changed in the past 15 years.
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jpc1968
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May 16, 2015 10:01:42 GMT -5
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Post by jpc1968 on Jun 20, 2017 9:43:58 GMT -5
I'm in the same boat as my nearest hobby shop is an hour and a half away. I buy most of my stuff from Megahobby and Spru brothers. I also use Amazon from time to time. But I do visit that hobby shop once or twice a year.
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pt109
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Post by pt109 on Jul 3, 2017 20:05:46 GMT -5
As far as Acrylics go, never had a problem with them clogging my airbrush, that's generally because they're not thinned properly. Tamiya Acrylics are my choice for the airbrush. I used to use Polyscale Acrylics for figures but they changed the formula and now they're way more watery than they used to be requiring more coats. I still have quite a few but I think Vallego will replace them. Never used Humbrol through an airbrush but they're great for figure painting and don't leave any brush strokes...I generally only use them to paint equipment, etc. Also I use Model Master enamels from time to time for same application... I don't use any primers, but I do undercoat with the Tamiya colors. I don't apply the paints right out of the bottle for brush painting because over time the paint settles and the color will change slightly, and you have to re-stir the paint. Hope this helps...Paul
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