Post by Smudge on Jul 17, 2012 7:54:41 GMT -5
Introduction:
The Merkava (Hebrew for Chariot) is a main battle tank used by the Israel Defense Forces. Development stared in 1973 and entered active service in 1978. Four main versions (plus sub variants) of the tank have been produced with the Mk3 being started in late 1999. The concept of the design is survivability with the engine and transmission being placed at the front to improve protection. The crew can also enter/exit via a door in the hull rear under cover from fire and view.
This review is of the new kit# TS01 Merkava Mk.3D (Early) in 1/35th scale from Meng Models, or to give it its full title Merkava siman 3 Bet BAZ dor Dalet (a very long designation hence the often used shortened title). To differentiate between the models, the word ‘siman’ is used, which literally means ‘mark’. The tank is an upgraded Merkava Mk.3B version with the addition of a fire-control system designated BAZ (commercial name - Knight Mk.3) with 4th generation armour (‘dor’ = generation in Hebrew).
Confused? Me too so I’ll stick with the common title…Merkava Mk.3D (or 3D).
The 3D is in service in large numbers in the IDF both in regular and reserve units. It saw action in the 2nd war in Lebanon in spring 2006 and in the Gaza Strip in the winter of 2009 (Operation Cast Lead). It is also used for internal security along Israel’s borders.
Overview:
The kit arrives in Meng’s usual robust box, with excellent glossy artwork on the top. This one definitely shouts ‘buy me’ from the shelves of your LHS. The parts are all packaged to avoid damage in transit and loss of loose parts. There was no damage at all to my sample upon opening.
Accuracy? Well having studied photos of the Merkava 3D nothing obvious jumped out at me that I haven’t mentioned in this review but there’s so much detail I can’t be 100% sure. Also the model was developed with cooperation between Meng and Michael Mass the renowned expert on the subject IMHO. Michael served as a mechanic in the IDF and is now the curator of the IDF Armoured Corps Museum; he is also the author of the excellent range of books on IDF armour from Desert Eagle Publishing and a keen modeller so he knows his stuff. I imagine accuracy has been paramount in the kits development. Michael opens the instructions with a foreword.
The instructions are in Meng’s usual booklet format. Well produced and very clear, with lots of notes to help the builder. I’ll point a few of the salient notes as I go along (along with any noticeable shortcomings in the kit). In total there are 45 build stages and other instructions spread over 26 pages, including glossy paint guide for two colour/marking schemes from the two conflicts mentioned above.
If anyone wants me to post the instructions just let me know.
The production quality apart from a couple of defects is excellent. Seams lines are minimal and flash almost anti existent. Ejection pins marks exist but these all look to be in places that won’t be seen at all after construction. The main parts requiring clean up will be the track links which have a tiny mark on each and every one…more on this later. As usual with Meng there are some tiny parts to contend with but nothing seems to have been added for the sake of it. As for the defects? This may be limited to just some kits I don’t know but the hull on mine is slightly warped and I’ll point this out later. Some of the sprues were also warped but this only affected one part as far as I could see…C38 the exhaust grill module. Care with these parts including careful cleaning up, test fitting and gluing, should rectify any major problems IMHO.
Contents:
The kit consists of 11 sprues in light grey styrene, one in clear and a one for the rubber polycaps. Four large parts make up the upper and lower hull, and turret bottom and top. There are also two astonishingly well done idler wheels (supplied in one piece…wow). In addition there is a length of copper wire and one of string, 220 separate track links and a sheet of metal for the tactical markings boards on the turret rear. How many parts? To retain my sanity I gave up but I tried and got in the high 700’s including the tracks.
The kit; highs and lows:
This is a kit screaming out to be built so in order to move onwards I thought I’d summarise the highs and lows that stand out for me.
Lows
I’ll get this out of the way first. In essence three things jumped out at me. The kit is missing any form of anti slip coating which is a distinct feature of modern armour. Maybe Meng thought it would be difficult to reproduce properly in styrene? I don’t know. Having seen this feature on other modern AFV kits I’ve never thought it to be that well portrayed before in styrene. I think there will be different feelings about this issue; (1) the basic modeller won’t care and build from the box or (2) the intermediate modeller will be ok with it but may find it a chore or (c) the more advanced modeller will just get on and apply their own. Personally (and a friend agreed with this) I would find it fairly straightforward if a little time consuming and I think a better effect can be achieved without having it moulded on. However, on saying that a lot of decent reference pictures will be needed it’s not just a case of where to apply the anti slip more a case of where not to IMHO.
Another missing feature is the data placards attached to the turret armour panels. If anti slip had been moulded on then so could these have been, however as anti slip hasn’t been then they’d be best reproduced in PE so they could be applied during the application of the anti slip by the modeller. One for the after market guys methinks. Most parts are so well moulded apart from this PE isn’t really needed IMHO.
…and of course that warped hull, which I’ll address later.
Highs
• Road, drive and idler wheels; the kit offers a choice of rubber or steel road-wheels with/without separate foam rings (these rings prevent mud/water building up or staying in the rims).
1. Rubberized Road wheel (RW) w/o foam ring.
2. Rubberized RW with foam ring
3. All metal RW w/o foam ring.
4. All metal RW with foam ring.
The wheels are extremely done indeed allowing for four options of the 3D road wheels or mixtures thereof. These combinations can change regularly as worn rubber wheels are replaced, so many combinations can be seen making for many variations which I think is a great feature.
The Idler wheels are also commendable. Moulded in one piece with open lightening holes they are an excellent piece of production requiring only a quick run over from a sanding stick; they require barely any cleaning up. The drive wheels and housings are excellent and include the distinctive mud scrapers needed for some of the environments the Merkava operates in.
• Lower hull; of the bathtub variety, correctly detailed and free from any imperfections, and reinforced with ribs inside to ensure it retains its shape. A perfect base to line up the lower and upper hull parts, which is vital (especially considering my warped upper hull).
• Rear door assembly; this is highly detailed consisting of no less than 14 parts which looks like it can be built in the open or closed position. Without an interior this is of limited use to the basic modeller but if someone releases an interior this is potentially a great option.
• Rear baskets; again highly detailed these are crying out for stowage. The rear panels even have the tiny holes represented perfectly although some may think PE would be better as overall they’re a tad thick, and I have to agree it may be. However; again it’s a personal issue but I like the simple but detailed parts provided...they’ll meet my requirements ok.
• Upper hull; this is cast in one large piece with a separate engine cover, upon which all other details (and there are loads of them) are added. The anti slip coating is missing entirely.
As mentioned my upper hull was slightly warped but I did find that by marrying the upper and lower hulls together properly this was pretty much negated (see pics below). I would recommend that many small details are left off until the main hull parts are true and adhesive as cured properly which would mean considering if the upper hull could be attached early around stage 11 rather than stage 18.
I ran the issue of the warped hull past a couple of buddies including Prof from this site who confirmed their kits had no warpage whatsoever so this must not be an issue in all kits.
Just one note here though. Stages 14 and 15 cover the drivers hatch. The kit includes two types (A&B) but makes no mention of which one goes with which marking option. If anyone as any ideas please let me know. Having looked at a few photos I can’t say because it’s usually hidden by the turret overhang.
The separate engine cover is a great idea. No doubt some enterprising AM company will produce an engine and transmission so there is a chance for upgrading this area. One thing I personally don’t like here though is the miniscule bolt heads you have to slice from sprue B and attach to the cover. There is no way my eyes or fingers are up to that although a number of spares are provided to keep the carpet monster happy.
• Trackguards; these seem to be perfect representations of the real items. Each one as tiny ID numbers cast into the exterior top corners as per the real thing and they are even detailed on the reverse at the top where they will be seen, and all bolt details are represented faithfully as far as I can tell.
• Tracks; these are very well done with casting marks on both sides. Thing is I'm not 100% sure if those on the inside face should be there, although I'm not sure they aren't either, I've not been able to find a decent enough picture of this area of the tracks. Each link as a pair of marks that look like ejection pins marks but can't be because one as a tiny letter in the centre...I checked loads and theres probably all the letters of the alphabet involved. Common sense says to me that these are raised quite a lot so could make for an uncomfortable ride for the crew? If anyone as the definitive answer please let us all know; leave the marks on or take them off; I don't know so do your research if concerned.
The links have been removed from a sprue of some kind by those nice people at Meng although they have left a tiny mark from an attachment point behind, on one side of the outer face on each individual link and a tiny amount of flash on some. This will require a little clean up but it may be worth considering how many will actually be seen upon completion I reckon it will be only a few at the front and rear where the Trackguards aren’t covering the tracks (or indeed upon the ground where they won’t be visible). Finally of course check the orientation of the tracks before fitting so they aren’t fitted facing the wrong way, the instructions don’t make this very clear for people like me who have a habit of fixing them on backwards.
Note; the tracks just click loosely together but aren’t workable so a careful application of liquid adhesive will be needed, which isn’t mentioned in the instructions.
• Gun barrel; this is made up of 14 parts, and with the use of polycaps is designed to elevate which is useful with any final positioning. I do worry though that with the front and rear barrel parts there will be a difficult join (mainly at the front) to eliminate. On saying that it looks great and I can’t see how they could have done it differently without more expensive moulding (slide moulding?) possibly resulting in a more expensive kit.
• Turret; this consists of a traditional bottom half with the usual bayonet fitting to enable the turret to traverse. The upper half is moulded though in separate modules to represent the complex panel arrangement which gives the 3D its distinctive look. I dry fitted the modules to the turret base and they all fitted perfectly with no apparent gaps, and it certainly looked like a 3D to my modellers eye; all the angles and shapes look correct. 25 stages are involved but I would deviate from the instructions though, building up the main part of the turret before fitting smaller details seems the best way forward IMHO. Meng show some very tiny parts being fitted as early as stage 21 (three stages in) while many stages later the large turret armour panels are added, which with my clumsy fingers is a recipe for disaster.
Ball and chain armour; a feature of the Merkava is the skirt of ball and chain armour which hangs from the turret bustle to protect the rear of the turret ring by prematurely detonating incoming rounds. Meng have recreated this in styrene and I think its great; the chain is a little over-scale and balls maybe a little under, and it will need extreme care removing this from the sprue but IMO I reckon they’ve reproduced this very well in this medium.
Periscopes/panoramic sight; these can be shown with open or closed armour covers with clear parts for the first option or solid styrene for the latter. It looks like the commanders panoramic sight revolves through the use of another polycap on the turret underside. Hatches can be portrayed open or closed although there’s no interior to show off.
The .50 and 7.62 MAG machine guns are very well done. The MAG’s even have separate carrying handles. In total 36 parts make up the three MG’s and mounts. The .50, from looking at photos, seems more often than not to have the conical flash hider fitted which Meng haven’t provided (two are provided in Academy’s Kit #1384.U.S. Machine Gun set if you can get it). The turret is finished off with the metal sheet, which using the templates provided, portrays the cloth tactical markings boards on the turret baskets rear and sides.
So what’s wrong with the turret? The aforementioned anti slip and placards. I can live without the anti slip personally I can re-create that, but would have liked to see PE placards included or represented in styrene, because I can’t easily replicate them. Also, if I’m being a little picky, the 60mm mortar and cage is a tad two dimensional (see part 15 below). Although I can live with this a separate cage in styrene would have been nice and up to the standard of the rest of the kit (it’s not something that can be represented in PE though; I’ll have to live with it or make a cage from wire?)
Painting/marking:
Paints are recommended from three manufacturers including Hobby Color, Mr Color and Vallejo. The markings, which are in perfect register and very clear are provided for two IDF vehicles in overall sand brown. These provide a decent selection of identification and tactical markings for the hull and the tactical markings board affixed to turret basket.
The two options are…
• Tank Gimel, 2nd Company (Wolves), 2nd Battalion, Barak (Lightening) Brigade, Lebanon, 2006
• Tank 10 Gimel, 2nd Battalion (Sa’ar), Barak (Lightening) Brigade, Operation Cast Lead, Gaza, January 2009
Conclusion:
I think this is an extremely good kit. Meng’s production is excellent, with crisp moulding no problematic pin marks and little flash. The complex angles and shapes of the 3D has been extremely well done; kudos to Meng for managing that. The choice of subject matter is again excellent. Simplifying some parts I.E. the ball and chain armour for me is especially great I really don’t think I could manage the alternatives; it will save many nights stress, although some will prefer to replace these I’m in no doubt. The tracks are very well done with excellent detailing and very fine casting letters/numbers. Notable parts also include the steel and rubber tyre road wheels, superbly moulded one piece idler wheels and lightening holes in the drive sprockets.
While I’m not overly fond of PE for the sake of it I think it would have been nice to see those missing placards included, especially as Meng have chosen not to represent the anti slip coating. Maybe a few other small details too like the hull basket rears although the kit parts are nicely done, if a tad too thick. My hull was warped a little although my mates, and Prof’s, were spot on.
I’m torn on the subject of the anti slip though. My buddy isn’t put off by this and Prof on this site I think shares this feeling to a degree. Moulded on anti slip can look odd…some modern AFV kits incorporate this and I think it can look odd, too sterile and perfect IMHO. Israeli anti slip looks rather course and seemingly haphazard in the way its applied, so I think I’d prefer to add my own. Again; others may have different feelings. I’ve been told to replicate this using Games Workshop’s Roughcoat and if anyone’s used this I’d appreciate your thoughts? Making sure I don’t apply it where it doesn’t belong will be the challenge and could be pretty time consuming; because this is a major issue I’d rather Meng had supplied diagrams rather than let us do our own research, to make life easier. It would have been pretty easy while Michael Mass was onboard.
I think this kit is great. Definitely recommended just be aware a little work is needed to make it exceptional. I would definitely recommend following Prof’s build here on MSC modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=armor&action=display&thread=1544 I’m sure he’ll be able to help solve the few issues I have.
References:
The modeller is lucky to have plenty of references available at the moment. I was lucky to be able to borrow the Merkava MK3D in IDF Service Pt.2; Michael Mass, Adam O'Brien, Desert Eagle Publishing – a fantastic reference book. Shame it had to go back.
Photos are also plentiful to help with that anti slip… www.dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?mode=P&vmode=T&p=781&id=17895&tp=w&lng=E and www.militaryphotos.net/forums/showthread.php?107429-Your-Favorite-Merkava-Pics are just two I found easily.
For a little background try www.waronline.org/en/IDF/arms/merkava.htm which also as some useful gallery photos www.waronline.org/IDF/photos/Army/Merkava%203
Smudge
The Merkava (Hebrew for Chariot) is a main battle tank used by the Israel Defense Forces. Development stared in 1973 and entered active service in 1978. Four main versions (plus sub variants) of the tank have been produced with the Mk3 being started in late 1999. The concept of the design is survivability with the engine and transmission being placed at the front to improve protection. The crew can also enter/exit via a door in the hull rear under cover from fire and view.
This review is of the new kit# TS01 Merkava Mk.3D (Early) in 1/35th scale from Meng Models, or to give it its full title Merkava siman 3 Bet BAZ dor Dalet (a very long designation hence the often used shortened title). To differentiate between the models, the word ‘siman’ is used, which literally means ‘mark’. The tank is an upgraded Merkava Mk.3B version with the addition of a fire-control system designated BAZ (commercial name - Knight Mk.3) with 4th generation armour (‘dor’ = generation in Hebrew).
Confused? Me too so I’ll stick with the common title…Merkava Mk.3D (or 3D).
The 3D is in service in large numbers in the IDF both in regular and reserve units. It saw action in the 2nd war in Lebanon in spring 2006 and in the Gaza Strip in the winter of 2009 (Operation Cast Lead). It is also used for internal security along Israel’s borders.
Overview:
The kit arrives in Meng’s usual robust box, with excellent glossy artwork on the top. This one definitely shouts ‘buy me’ from the shelves of your LHS. The parts are all packaged to avoid damage in transit and loss of loose parts. There was no damage at all to my sample upon opening.
Accuracy? Well having studied photos of the Merkava 3D nothing obvious jumped out at me that I haven’t mentioned in this review but there’s so much detail I can’t be 100% sure. Also the model was developed with cooperation between Meng and Michael Mass the renowned expert on the subject IMHO. Michael served as a mechanic in the IDF and is now the curator of the IDF Armoured Corps Museum; he is also the author of the excellent range of books on IDF armour from Desert Eagle Publishing and a keen modeller so he knows his stuff. I imagine accuracy has been paramount in the kits development. Michael opens the instructions with a foreword.
The instructions are in Meng’s usual booklet format. Well produced and very clear, with lots of notes to help the builder. I’ll point a few of the salient notes as I go along (along with any noticeable shortcomings in the kit). In total there are 45 build stages and other instructions spread over 26 pages, including glossy paint guide for two colour/marking schemes from the two conflicts mentioned above.
If anyone wants me to post the instructions just let me know.
The production quality apart from a couple of defects is excellent. Seams lines are minimal and flash almost anti existent. Ejection pins marks exist but these all look to be in places that won’t be seen at all after construction. The main parts requiring clean up will be the track links which have a tiny mark on each and every one…more on this later. As usual with Meng there are some tiny parts to contend with but nothing seems to have been added for the sake of it. As for the defects? This may be limited to just some kits I don’t know but the hull on mine is slightly warped and I’ll point this out later. Some of the sprues were also warped but this only affected one part as far as I could see…C38 the exhaust grill module. Care with these parts including careful cleaning up, test fitting and gluing, should rectify any major problems IMHO.
Contents:
The kit consists of 11 sprues in light grey styrene, one in clear and a one for the rubber polycaps. Four large parts make up the upper and lower hull, and turret bottom and top. There are also two astonishingly well done idler wheels (supplied in one piece…wow). In addition there is a length of copper wire and one of string, 220 separate track links and a sheet of metal for the tactical markings boards on the turret rear. How many parts? To retain my sanity I gave up but I tried and got in the high 700’s including the tracks.
The kit; highs and lows:
This is a kit screaming out to be built so in order to move onwards I thought I’d summarise the highs and lows that stand out for me.
Lows
I’ll get this out of the way first. In essence three things jumped out at me. The kit is missing any form of anti slip coating which is a distinct feature of modern armour. Maybe Meng thought it would be difficult to reproduce properly in styrene? I don’t know. Having seen this feature on other modern AFV kits I’ve never thought it to be that well portrayed before in styrene. I think there will be different feelings about this issue; (1) the basic modeller won’t care and build from the box or (2) the intermediate modeller will be ok with it but may find it a chore or (c) the more advanced modeller will just get on and apply their own. Personally (and a friend agreed with this) I would find it fairly straightforward if a little time consuming and I think a better effect can be achieved without having it moulded on. However, on saying that a lot of decent reference pictures will be needed it’s not just a case of where to apply the anti slip more a case of where not to IMHO.
Another missing feature is the data placards attached to the turret armour panels. If anti slip had been moulded on then so could these have been, however as anti slip hasn’t been then they’d be best reproduced in PE so they could be applied during the application of the anti slip by the modeller. One for the after market guys methinks. Most parts are so well moulded apart from this PE isn’t really needed IMHO.
…and of course that warped hull, which I’ll address later.
Highs
• Road, drive and idler wheels; the kit offers a choice of rubber or steel road-wheels with/without separate foam rings (these rings prevent mud/water building up or staying in the rims).
1. Rubberized Road wheel (RW) w/o foam ring.
2. Rubberized RW with foam ring
3. All metal RW w/o foam ring.
4. All metal RW with foam ring.
The wheels are extremely done indeed allowing for four options of the 3D road wheels or mixtures thereof. These combinations can change regularly as worn rubber wheels are replaced, so many combinations can be seen making for many variations which I think is a great feature.
The Idler wheels are also commendable. Moulded in one piece with open lightening holes they are an excellent piece of production requiring only a quick run over from a sanding stick; they require barely any cleaning up. The drive wheels and housings are excellent and include the distinctive mud scrapers needed for some of the environments the Merkava operates in.
• Lower hull; of the bathtub variety, correctly detailed and free from any imperfections, and reinforced with ribs inside to ensure it retains its shape. A perfect base to line up the lower and upper hull parts, which is vital (especially considering my warped upper hull).
• Rear door assembly; this is highly detailed consisting of no less than 14 parts which looks like it can be built in the open or closed position. Without an interior this is of limited use to the basic modeller but if someone releases an interior this is potentially a great option.
• Rear baskets; again highly detailed these are crying out for stowage. The rear panels even have the tiny holes represented perfectly although some may think PE would be better as overall they’re a tad thick, and I have to agree it may be. However; again it’s a personal issue but I like the simple but detailed parts provided...they’ll meet my requirements ok.
• Upper hull; this is cast in one large piece with a separate engine cover, upon which all other details (and there are loads of them) are added. The anti slip coating is missing entirely.
As mentioned my upper hull was slightly warped but I did find that by marrying the upper and lower hulls together properly this was pretty much negated (see pics below). I would recommend that many small details are left off until the main hull parts are true and adhesive as cured properly which would mean considering if the upper hull could be attached early around stage 11 rather than stage 18.
I ran the issue of the warped hull past a couple of buddies including Prof from this site who confirmed their kits had no warpage whatsoever so this must not be an issue in all kits.
Just one note here though. Stages 14 and 15 cover the drivers hatch. The kit includes two types (A&B) but makes no mention of which one goes with which marking option. If anyone as any ideas please let me know. Having looked at a few photos I can’t say because it’s usually hidden by the turret overhang.
The separate engine cover is a great idea. No doubt some enterprising AM company will produce an engine and transmission so there is a chance for upgrading this area. One thing I personally don’t like here though is the miniscule bolt heads you have to slice from sprue B and attach to the cover. There is no way my eyes or fingers are up to that although a number of spares are provided to keep the carpet monster happy.
• Trackguards; these seem to be perfect representations of the real items. Each one as tiny ID numbers cast into the exterior top corners as per the real thing and they are even detailed on the reverse at the top where they will be seen, and all bolt details are represented faithfully as far as I can tell.
• Tracks; these are very well done with casting marks on both sides. Thing is I'm not 100% sure if those on the inside face should be there, although I'm not sure they aren't either, I've not been able to find a decent enough picture of this area of the tracks. Each link as a pair of marks that look like ejection pins marks but can't be because one as a tiny letter in the centre...I checked loads and theres probably all the letters of the alphabet involved. Common sense says to me that these are raised quite a lot so could make for an uncomfortable ride for the crew? If anyone as the definitive answer please let us all know; leave the marks on or take them off; I don't know so do your research if concerned.
The links have been removed from a sprue of some kind by those nice people at Meng although they have left a tiny mark from an attachment point behind, on one side of the outer face on each individual link and a tiny amount of flash on some. This will require a little clean up but it may be worth considering how many will actually be seen upon completion I reckon it will be only a few at the front and rear where the Trackguards aren’t covering the tracks (or indeed upon the ground where they won’t be visible). Finally of course check the orientation of the tracks before fitting so they aren’t fitted facing the wrong way, the instructions don’t make this very clear for people like me who have a habit of fixing them on backwards.
Note; the tracks just click loosely together but aren’t workable so a careful application of liquid adhesive will be needed, which isn’t mentioned in the instructions.
• Gun barrel; this is made up of 14 parts, and with the use of polycaps is designed to elevate which is useful with any final positioning. I do worry though that with the front and rear barrel parts there will be a difficult join (mainly at the front) to eliminate. On saying that it looks great and I can’t see how they could have done it differently without more expensive moulding (slide moulding?) possibly resulting in a more expensive kit.
• Turret; this consists of a traditional bottom half with the usual bayonet fitting to enable the turret to traverse. The upper half is moulded though in separate modules to represent the complex panel arrangement which gives the 3D its distinctive look. I dry fitted the modules to the turret base and they all fitted perfectly with no apparent gaps, and it certainly looked like a 3D to my modellers eye; all the angles and shapes look correct. 25 stages are involved but I would deviate from the instructions though, building up the main part of the turret before fitting smaller details seems the best way forward IMHO. Meng show some very tiny parts being fitted as early as stage 21 (three stages in) while many stages later the large turret armour panels are added, which with my clumsy fingers is a recipe for disaster.
Ball and chain armour; a feature of the Merkava is the skirt of ball and chain armour which hangs from the turret bustle to protect the rear of the turret ring by prematurely detonating incoming rounds. Meng have recreated this in styrene and I think its great; the chain is a little over-scale and balls maybe a little under, and it will need extreme care removing this from the sprue but IMO I reckon they’ve reproduced this very well in this medium.
Periscopes/panoramic sight; these can be shown with open or closed armour covers with clear parts for the first option or solid styrene for the latter. It looks like the commanders panoramic sight revolves through the use of another polycap on the turret underside. Hatches can be portrayed open or closed although there’s no interior to show off.
The .50 and 7.62 MAG machine guns are very well done. The MAG’s even have separate carrying handles. In total 36 parts make up the three MG’s and mounts. The .50, from looking at photos, seems more often than not to have the conical flash hider fitted which Meng haven’t provided (two are provided in Academy’s Kit #1384.U.S. Machine Gun set if you can get it). The turret is finished off with the metal sheet, which using the templates provided, portrays the cloth tactical markings boards on the turret baskets rear and sides.
So what’s wrong with the turret? The aforementioned anti slip and placards. I can live without the anti slip personally I can re-create that, but would have liked to see PE placards included or represented in styrene, because I can’t easily replicate them. Also, if I’m being a little picky, the 60mm mortar and cage is a tad two dimensional (see part 15 below). Although I can live with this a separate cage in styrene would have been nice and up to the standard of the rest of the kit (it’s not something that can be represented in PE though; I’ll have to live with it or make a cage from wire?)
Painting/marking:
Paints are recommended from three manufacturers including Hobby Color, Mr Color and Vallejo. The markings, which are in perfect register and very clear are provided for two IDF vehicles in overall sand brown. These provide a decent selection of identification and tactical markings for the hull and the tactical markings board affixed to turret basket.
The two options are…
• Tank Gimel, 2nd Company (Wolves), 2nd Battalion, Barak (Lightening) Brigade, Lebanon, 2006
• Tank 10 Gimel, 2nd Battalion (Sa’ar), Barak (Lightening) Brigade, Operation Cast Lead, Gaza, January 2009
Conclusion:
I think this is an extremely good kit. Meng’s production is excellent, with crisp moulding no problematic pin marks and little flash. The complex angles and shapes of the 3D has been extremely well done; kudos to Meng for managing that. The choice of subject matter is again excellent. Simplifying some parts I.E. the ball and chain armour for me is especially great I really don’t think I could manage the alternatives; it will save many nights stress, although some will prefer to replace these I’m in no doubt. The tracks are very well done with excellent detailing and very fine casting letters/numbers. Notable parts also include the steel and rubber tyre road wheels, superbly moulded one piece idler wheels and lightening holes in the drive sprockets.
While I’m not overly fond of PE for the sake of it I think it would have been nice to see those missing placards included, especially as Meng have chosen not to represent the anti slip coating. Maybe a few other small details too like the hull basket rears although the kit parts are nicely done, if a tad too thick. My hull was warped a little although my mates, and Prof’s, were spot on.
I’m torn on the subject of the anti slip though. My buddy isn’t put off by this and Prof on this site I think shares this feeling to a degree. Moulded on anti slip can look odd…some modern AFV kits incorporate this and I think it can look odd, too sterile and perfect IMHO. Israeli anti slip looks rather course and seemingly haphazard in the way its applied, so I think I’d prefer to add my own. Again; others may have different feelings. I’ve been told to replicate this using Games Workshop’s Roughcoat and if anyone’s used this I’d appreciate your thoughts? Making sure I don’t apply it where it doesn’t belong will be the challenge and could be pretty time consuming; because this is a major issue I’d rather Meng had supplied diagrams rather than let us do our own research, to make life easier. It would have been pretty easy while Michael Mass was onboard.
I think this kit is great. Definitely recommended just be aware a little work is needed to make it exceptional. I would definitely recommend following Prof’s build here on MSC modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=armor&action=display&thread=1544 I’m sure he’ll be able to help solve the few issues I have.
References:
The modeller is lucky to have plenty of references available at the moment. I was lucky to be able to borrow the Merkava MK3D in IDF Service Pt.2; Michael Mass, Adam O'Brien, Desert Eagle Publishing – a fantastic reference book. Shame it had to go back.
Photos are also plentiful to help with that anti slip… www.dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?mode=P&vmode=T&p=781&id=17895&tp=w&lng=E and www.militaryphotos.net/forums/showthread.php?107429-Your-Favorite-Merkava-Pics are just two I found easily.
For a little background try www.waronline.org/en/IDF/arms/merkava.htm which also as some useful gallery photos www.waronline.org/IDF/photos/Army/Merkava%203
Smudge
