Post by 406 Silverado on Jul 19, 2012 15:23:00 GMT -5
AK-551 RUST EFFECT COLORS
Available : Through AK Interactive distributors and LHS's
ak-interactive-usa.com/
ak-interactive-usa.com/
Price : Not available. Contact above.
See the Summer release post here for this and other products
modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=ak&action=display&thread=1611
I will do a quick review of what you get etc etc....but I will also be doing my standard comparison and testing of the paints. The opinions given here are of my own and taken from my experience with rust colors and various techniques for rust effects.
Before you ask why I am comparing this set to Life color rust, it's because I found the LC set to be the most accurate compared to the real thing. I use real objects that I have in my hobby room and outdoors for comparing rust in it's various tones and texture.
A sample of the type of rusty objects I use when comparing and also painting my models.
Here we go then. First off you get five (5) bottles of acrylic paints in the usual AK plastic eye dropper bottle. The paints are thin for use with the AB ( airbrush) so no thinning is needed. The LC paints are thicker and more designed for brush work and have to be thinned for the AB.
The sixth (6) bottle is actually a chipping color. this is similar to the Vallejo camo brown most modelers use for chipping. This color is not as thin as the rust colors and can be used with a small paint brush or sponge technique.
Now we'll take a quick look at the AK colors compared to others that I have on hand. You'll see that they all vary in color tone and some dry darker than when wet.
The main four colors will be compared to the other brands. The color not pictured is a dark rust shading.
Here the LC rust set minus the two dust colors that come in the set.
Now we'll go bottle for bottle starting with the bright, or light rust color.
As you can see from the images above these are just a few of the acrylic rust colors available. The colors vary but are essentially the same. keep in mind there are many different shades of rust and what you can buy for paints is a good starting point. By mixing colors you can create more shades of rust.
We'll go over other products available to help the modeler create more effects by using the acrylic paints and enamels and oils.
Now to look at the AK colors. I applied a small drop on a strip of styrene. The styrene is un painted or primed and the paint spreads easily. With a matt or satin on your model the AK paints will cover better and not be so thin as here. They are also pre thinned for AB work, as mentioned above.
The dark color on the far right is the chipping color.
Now I did a test with the AB and also used this for a comparison to the Lifecolor paints, on the bottom, the AK on the top.
I used three drops from each color and spray light coats. The paints dried fast and to a very nice matt finish.
NOTE: the light rust AK was applied too heavy on the first coat and I did not get an even coat....my mistake not the paint.
As you can see, the AK and LC paints are almost similar and very minor tonal variation. I'm happy with this since I do a lot of mixing of the different colors to get the shade I need.
Next I sprayed a large area with the dark rust color to check coverage for use as a base rust coat for the salt or Hair spray technique. I applied this in several light coats. The paint dried very fast in between coats and so this was do in a matter of a couple of minutes.
I still have more testing I want to do and this will be with actual painting and the use of techniques for creating layers. I will try to get this done and posted ASAP so please check in to see part 2 of this test review.
Part 2Playing around 
In wanting to see how the paints are when used the way I often use rust paints I went ahead and did a few things. Mind you the goal was not to create anything in particular but instead to see how the colors look, and how they cover.
I used the off white section previously sprayed and started with the chipping color. I used a fine tip brush and also used a sponge to apply some quick chipping. The paint is exactly like the vallejo paint that I have been using for years. The paint goes on real easy and dries fast and to a dead flat finish.
Since I am working on the white, I decided to try out the streaking grime for interiors as well. There is no detail on this flat surface to test out the wash so that will come another time.
For me besides the chipping color, the Old Rust rely got my attention since there is no actual color in any set that resembles old rust that has a purple tone to it. This can be seen on very old rusty metal. This comes from when the metal is completely oxidized....there's a tech way of putting it but lets just say it's Old metal..
AK's old metal is perfect. I like to use this color for old cast metal like turrets. I applied some of this on the chipping color to see how it looks.
Since I was at it, why not check the other colors out on a light color like the white.
Some old rust streaks....
To create rust effects you have to use different products to get the right look....so I used the AK rust streaking and wash just to see how they look with the acrylic mess I made.
Next I want to see how the paints look on a dark color, in this case a rust brown base color that I use for the HS technique.
Here is a model with varying brown base coats, basically to practice on.
The opposite side you can see where I messed around with some life color (?) paints checking how they too look on a brown base.
For me the darker colors in this set including the chipping color are what I have been needing and what we don't find in sets. So we'll start with the old rust. As I said before, the old rust has a slight purple tinge to it which is perfect.
First I brushed on one thin coat...no thinner added, just from the bottle. Then I stumped this to get some slight texture and also avoid tide marks.
And here I used the AB to apply a very light coat over the same area.
Now we move on to the light colors and here I just want to see how they cover and also how they work as a wash or filter. Yes I now, oils and enamels for washes and filters.......NOT. I also use acrylics for that. Mainly what I do is use rust colors thinned to a wash and filter and add layers and dimension using a wash and filter. Enough said on that.
Just trying some brush and sponge work.
The main thing with the bright, or fresh rust, is that I often use it for replicating very fresh rust, especially from rain and water that pooled in corners or low spots. That's why the thinning to a filter and wash...ok secrets out..LOL
I also wanted to see how these colors look for another thing so out came the AB once again.
Here are two pics of what that test is for, to create these effects on raw steel plates.
And to see how it looks for large rust stains.
I then mixed the two middle colors without thinner and applied one very light misted coat over most of the model and on some lines such as the fenders. This is to see if it could be used instead of my usual oil filter of Vandyke brown. Looks good but another misted coat will make it look even better.
That's all the time I have for now. I will try to do more in a couple of days and this time it will be to see how it holds up to the HS technique.
Part 3 Final testing
Using The salt hairspray technique
I could do a lot more to really see what these paints can do, but that would be mainly for me and my techniques used in making rust buckets. It also is very time consuming, and time is what I do have a lot of right now.
So we'll stick to adding more rust colors and see how the paints work with AK worn effects and a small salt tech test.
Here I have applied some brighter rust with a small brush and a sponge. What I want to see is if the paint remains on the model and not removed when the worn effects are applied, and from wetting the area for chipping.
I used the top section to try the salt tech. Mind you this was all done as quickly as possible and no clear coat was used to seal the paints.
Next came the top color, in this case a faded green mix from Tamiya.
One of the reasons why I don't use the salt tech very often is the fact that at times , especially when your rushing, that the salt will stain or lighten the top color.
After using a dry stiff brush I removed the salt, then wet the area with worn effects to create chipping. As you can see, the AK rust colors are still there and are still a very nice matt finish, The way it should be.
Next I wanted to try this on a model so I added some more rust colors and also mixed a couple and then applied this with the brush, sponge and as a filter and wash.
The entire model received two light coats of AK's worn effects....and no clear sealer before this.
The green faded paint.
So we'll start chipping the side box and then the engine deck.
Again, the AK rust is still there and looks good. Now the engine deck ...
I may do some weathering etc just to see how this will look as a finished, or close to it, model.
I will post my verdict and the conclusion of the testing shortly.
Conclusion and the verdict
I have done more chipping on the practice hull and the AK rust colors are holding up as expected and I will post a pic of it when it's all chipped, at a later date.
As you have seen, I like to try different things to see what paints can do and this is what it's all about. Many things can be done with paints and it's all up to the modeler and his skills to get the most out of paints, and other mediums.
Although the AK rust set, except the chipping color , are meant to be used with the airbrush as they are pre thinned, they can also be brushed on but only on small areas. The were great for use as filters or washes.
For brush and sponge chipping I found that placing a drop or two on a mixing pallet and letting this sit for 10 - 20 minutes the paint started to thicken, as it starts to dry. By doing this it was easier to create chips with a fine pointed brush.
The rust colors look nearly spot on and by mixing two or more colors one can create even more rust tones to simulate different types of rust. I found the old rust to be perfect for old rusty metal, especially for cast metal.
The paints go on smooth and dry to a very nice matt finish, but as with other acrylics form AK and Vallejo they do clog fine tip AB's after longer spraying sessions. I used the AK acrylic thinner for cleaning the AB by shooting a drop or two through the AB now and then.
When using these paints for large base rust colors I would recommend using a dark primer for the shadow and old rust, and light colored primer for the brighter fresh rust shades. By doing so less rust paint will be needed to get an even solid rust base, thus saving on paint.
All in all these are some very nice paints and another welcome addition to my rust paint collection that gets used on every model I build. I will use these to repaint my T-62 and Panther in the next week or so.
