Foenetik
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Member since: March 2014
Posts: 573 
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Post by Foenetik on Nov 21, 2015 21:25:18 GMT -5
This may seem like a stupid question but i was hoping i could get some info.
So i feel im doing ok with modeling in general thus far but i have a part where i seem to fall apart.
I dont always clearcoat stuff because i dont want to lose detail with 3 layers (primer, paint, clear). And i tend to notice that when it comes time to assemble stuff that i ruin paint. Or at least mark it up. Or sometimes itll be nice and smooth and then ill end up leaving a fingerprint.
I don't know if i should be clearcoating everything or letting stuff dry more or wearing gloves?
For example, i painted this lil box red with tamiya. And i let it sit for 2 days. Then after i got done working with it for a few seconds i had a print in it. I dont know if its the heat and oils of my hot ass italian hands or if it needed to cure more.
I just started wearing gloves so im hoping i helps but i was hoping maybe i could do more to help. It's not like i was oressing hard on it. It really frustrating cause everything is painted so nice and having to handle it ruins it. But i have to handle it to assemble it. Quite the conundrum.
Looking forward to hear what you guys think.
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Post by JimD on Nov 21, 2015 22:20:40 GMT -5
Tamiya paint is as dry as it's ever getting in a couple hours. So it's probably just oils I'm your hands in this case.
I do use gloves for handling when the paint starts flying for this very reason so you may try this.
Are you priming? It boggles my mind that people dont, but it's your best bet for strong paint.
I'd also recommend protective clear coats. If you're loosing details under clear coats you're doing it wrong. I end a model with at least 3-4 applications of clears and don't loose details.
Some paints are weaker than others too. Enamel will be strongest but only after its cured (and enamel is the only paint we use that actually cures). That curing can take days. Different acrylics and lacquers have different streets to reset scuffing. But again primer is your best bet.
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Foenetik
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Member since: March 2014
Posts: 573
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Post by Foenetik on Nov 21, 2015 22:59:04 GMT -5
Tamiya paint is as dry as it's ever getting in a couple hours. So it's probably just oils I'm your hands in this case. I do use gloves for handling when the paint starts flying for this very reason so you may try this. Are you priming? It boggles my mind that people dont, but it's your best bet for strong paint. I'd also recommend protective clear coats. If you're loosing details under clear coats you're doing it wrong. I end a model with at least 3-4 applications of clears and don't loose details. Some paints are weaker than others too. Enamel will be strongest but only after its cured (and enamel is the only paint we use that actually cures). That curing can take days. Different acrylics and lacquers have different streets to reset scuffing. But again primer is your best bet. I always prime. I cant imagine not priming as well. Ill have to try clear protective coats as well. I agree if im losing details its something im doing wrong. Im new to modeling. Maybe ill try lighter coats of orimer and clear. I pretty much use acrylics and laquer (mostly alclad for laq). Thanks for the reply |
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Post by tonylee on Nov 21, 2015 23:06:49 GMT -5
Before I work on my models I wash my hands. If I leave the bench to get something to drink or touch something outside my modeling room I wash my hands before I touch my model. You would think I was a dish washer with dish pan hands I wash my hands so much.
The only time I wear latex gloves is when i'm painting.
Works for me
Tony lee
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Post by Deano on Nov 22, 2015 5:16:22 GMT -5
I generally try to handle the models as little as possible . Like Tony says tho , make a conscious effort to wash your hands before and during visits to the bench ... it cant hurt  |
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Post by dupes on Nov 22, 2015 9:22:08 GMT -5
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Post by wing_nut on Nov 22, 2015 13:08:40 GMT -5
Powder free latex gloves. Very cheap so i change them as often as needed. Nitrile gloves if you have a latex allergy. I don't keep one on all the time but when I put one on the left hand to hold a model... tool in the right hand... I end up leaving it on until it gets uncomfortable as in hot/sweaty but it takes awhile.
I also keep some hand sanitizer handy. I usually start a session with that. Even though it dries fast due to the high alcohol content, I use a paper towel to help get the excess oils off the
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Foenetik
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Member since: March 2014
Posts: 573
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Post by Foenetik on Nov 22, 2015 18:35:19 GMT -5
I have that set, i love it. I second gloves on metal finishes. the alclads love to rub off. |
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Post by JimD on Nov 22, 2015 18:42:32 GMT -5
I have that set, i love it. I second gloves on metal finishes. the alclads love to rub off. I keep seeing people say this and I've yet to have any rub off on me...not even remotely... |
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Foenetik
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Member since: March 2014
Posts: 573
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Post by Foenetik on Nov 22, 2015 18:46:21 GMT -5
I have that set, i love it. I second gloves on metal finishes. the alclads love to rub off. I keep seeing people say this and I've yet to have any rub off on me...not even remotely... well, i can attest to it happening. happened to me today actually on my YZR, held it for about 10 seconds while gluing a wire in, and bam, black edges. And this was painted months ago. its definitely cured. Must be certain peoples hands (oils, heat etc) The thing is (in my personal experience), if you clearcoat alclad chrome (even with their own), i find it not as shiny, even with light coats. so i tend to not clear coat the alclad chrome. do you clear yours? |
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Post by JimD on Nov 22, 2015 19:04:25 GMT -5
Huh. Interesting. Alclad, being a lacquer, doesn't cure. But it would be plenty dry. Keep in mind I've only done 2 complete airplanes, but I didn't have any probelms with lifting, or scuffing. I've used it a lot for various parts though and the same holds true. The only thing I've sprayed chrome on is struts and things like that. It's too shiny for airplane surfaces. In those instances I do cover it with a gloss coat, before masking and finishing the part (which I usually don't want to also be gloss). I've also used clears over other Alclad finishes with no real loss of sheen.  The nose ring here was finished with Airframe Aluminum (another high shine) and glosses with no ill effect. The rest of the NMF is also glossed. |
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Post by wbill76 on Nov 22, 2015 19:07:10 GMT -5
Ditto to what the others have said. Frequent hand washing will keep the oils down and the transfer from your hands to the model. I too have adopted the latex glove approach when airbrushing...got tired of scrubbing paint from under my fingernails and thinking I was going to lose my fingerprints over time as well.  While building, I don't wear gloves but I also work with enamel paints vs. acrylics so as long as the curing process is complete, I don't have any issues with paint rubbing off, wearing, etc. as a rule. |
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Foenetik
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Member since: March 2014
Posts: 573
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Post by Foenetik on Nov 22, 2015 19:15:23 GMT -5
Huh. Interesting. Alclad, being a lacquer, doesn't cure. But it would be plenty dry. Keep in mind I've only done 2 complete airplanes, but I didn't have any probelms with lifting, or scuffing. I've used it a lot for various parts though and the same holds true. The only thing I've sprayed chrome on is struts and things like that. It's too shiny for airplane surfaces. In those instances I do cover it with a gloss coat, before masking and finishing the part (which I usually don't want to also be gloss). I've also used clears over other Alclad finishes with no real loss of sheen. The nose ring here was finished with Airframe Aluminum (another high shine) and glosses with no ill effect. The rest of the NMF is also glossed. ill give glossing another try. i was heavy handed with the airbrush for a while until i learned what a "light coat" really is but i havent cleared anything since (chome wise), except for one part.ive even cleared a part, over the chrome, and made my way down to the black. my hands must be caustic. perhaps its all the garlic in my diet haha |
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While building, I don't wear gloves but I also work with enamel paints vs. acrylics so as long as the curing process is complete, I don't have any issues with paint rubbing off, wearing, etc. as a rule. 