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Post by panzerjager2 on Oct 24, 2016 17:51:36 GMT -5
Well here is my latest "time filler". It will incorporate the 1/25th Maxim Heavy machine-gun i started several months ago. The end result MAY BE a diorama with the T-37, Kubelwagen, BMW R75 and a host of figures........
Anyway, while I am trying to figure out where I can get parts cast for the Bergepanther, I decided to start this project.... Here is my very humble beginnings.... of what will end up being a Soviet T-37 Amphibious tank that was seen on the eastern front 1941 thru 1942.
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Post by Leon on Oct 24, 2016 18:05:23 GMT -5
More scratch building!!!! Count me in PJ.
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S e r z h--Rest In Peace
Full Member
Member since: November 2014
RIP- December 2023
Posts: 650
Nov 30, 2014 16:08:40 GMT -5
Nov 30, 2014 16:08:40 GMT -5
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Post by S e r z h--Rest In Peace on Oct 24, 2016 21:40:08 GMT -5
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Post by panzerjager2 on Oct 24, 2016 21:55:00 GMT -5
I have them, BUT many thanks for the thought and effort
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Post by dierk on Oct 25, 2016 4:11:56 GMT -5
Naturally, I'll be watching this!
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vlpbruce
Full Member
Member since: March 2013
Posts: 1,463
Mar 24, 2013 11:37:05 GMT -5
Mar 24, 2013 11:37:05 GMT -5
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Post by vlpbruce on Oct 25, 2016 16:30:47 GMT -5
I'm pulling up a chair too.
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Post by panzerjager2 on Oct 26, 2016 19:23:36 GMT -5
Well gang..... here is the first "rough draft" of the T-37 road-wheels. The cool thing is it took aboooot 20 minutes to create, and once I start casting them, probably about the same to replicate.....
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Post by panzerjager2 on Oct 26, 2016 23:04:53 GMT -5
Very quick addition: The Road-wheel/boggie-wheel housing
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Ray Dunakin
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Member since: February 2013
Posts: 409
Feb 10, 2013 21:06:33 GMT -5
Feb 10, 2013 21:06:33 GMT -5
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Post by Ray Dunakin on Oct 27, 2016 10:24:49 GMT -5
Very cool. I wonder how buoyant and stable those things were?
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Post by panzerjager2 on Oct 27, 2016 11:23:07 GMT -5
Here's the funny thing, these amphibious tanks of the 30's were actually pretty buoyant and from what I have seen on YouTube videos pretty stable in water. No that being said, the videos only show them operating in calm water......
Thanks to all for the kind words
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Post by dierk on Oct 27, 2016 11:37:26 GMT -5
Nice progress PJ! The soviet amphibious tanks had something in common with the allied versions used in the D-Day landings: waves gave them that sinking feeling...
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 14, 2016 22:08:22 GMT -5
Well, as I always say, "check you %#$@$^&*^ MATH".... I got lazy and forgot to double check so the great IPMS Modeling gods frowned on me....
Here are a couple of shots of the updated new math double checked hull
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 15, 2016 0:12:04 GMT -5
Well this next phase is what I call.... "let the green stuff begin". Plus i test fitted a pontoon/float.
Now for all of you out there, like me, that NEED to be accurate......... The T-37 had three evolution's to it's side fenders/pontoons.
1). Flat very fender looking with almost no flotation . The typical fender you'd expect on a Russian tank. 2). A float/pontoon that has a gradual slope to it. Thick towards the rear and narrow at the front. Typical Mid T-37A 3). A flat float/pontoon with an almost fender like look to it. Found mostly on late T-37A.
Now I do realize that the tapered float would be harder and more of a challenge, BUT I think I'm gonna cop out and keep the flat float....
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 15, 2016 18:03:32 GMT -5
Well here is the 2nd incarnation of the rear Idler wheel. It's not quite 100% but what is these days.....
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Post by deafpanzer on Dec 15, 2016 18:08:09 GMT -5
Love the green stuff!! LOL Looking forward to see the result.
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captfue
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Member since: October 2012
Posts: 311
Oct 1, 2012 22:25:19 GMT -5
Oct 1, 2012 22:25:19 GMT -5
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Post by captfue on Dec 16, 2016 22:50:52 GMT -5
Looking great so far...!
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 19, 2016 22:06:46 GMT -5
Well here is an update....... I've been working on the Return Wheel support arm. Leave it to the Soviet's to build some wacky no linear system. Well the designer probably ended up in a Gulag anyway.....
The arm is more Z shaped, and finding GREAT detail shots was TOUGH....... but here's my third adaptation of the T-37 Return Wheel Support Arm. Now PLEASE NOTE. I haven't yet "cleaned" it up, meaning it's far from being ready to cast......................
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Post by Leon on Dec 20, 2016 6:57:23 GMT -5
Looks good PJ!
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 20, 2016 10:26:53 GMT -5
That is looking real nice! I admire people who can scratch build, I have trouble just doing the ones out of the box!
Since you putty is green, is it a proper assumption that it's Squadron putty? Are you thinning it or just using straight from the tube?
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 20, 2016 17:47:57 GMT -5
Great question....... I apply directly from the tube with a "trowel" BUT I set it with a brush of liquid cement. I primarily use Green stuff, with the occasional White stuff.
Also, THANKS for looking in....... don't let the term scratch building fool you, it's still very much like putting together a production kit, JUST takes a lot longer LOL
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 20, 2016 17:49:38 GMT -5
Thanks Leon........ This one SHOULD be easier than a frickin 1/25th Ferdinand.....what was I thinking
Thanks again
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 21, 2016 9:52:18 GMT -5
On my 88mm build, I'm trying to super detail it as much as my limited skills will allow, what I find I struggle with most is the assembly of complex scratch made components.
How do you hold them still enough when you are working on them to get everything straight, neat and tidy? I am finding that when I'm working with tiny styrene components and CA, that getting them in the exact right spot is a massive challenge for me.
Looking at your work on the suspension component the second thing that comes into my mind, the first being - "WOW that looks great", is how did he get that so perfect???
Any advice you could offer?
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 21, 2016 17:31:12 GMT -5
Welllllllllllllllllll There is no simple answer to that question...... HOWEVER........ I do a lot of trial and error. A lot of "I think this will work". Now some times it turns out pure POOOOOO. Other times looking pretty nice. For me, and me only, I use Zap, or a CA, but I really like Plastruct weld. It gives me time to wiggle things around and when the stuff sets it actually "welds" the plastic. On my Ferdinand I mostly used Plastuct Weld, and only a small amount of CA. Now as to holding things in place, I am a BIG fan of Double Sided Tape, Putty like Play-Doe, or even white glue to hold something down while work on it. You can use Forceps, I have a ton of them for just that, or even one of those high priced "third hand contraptions".
Lastly, for me, when I started down the "dark" path of Scratch Building I hand drew every thing in advance, to help me bridge the difference between what I thought, what I wanted, and then WHAT I COULD DO. Start with easy things, using brass wire, solder, and other materials that are "more forgiving". Again speaking for me I started by making storage boxes with the hasp/latch assembly. My big thing was the long hasp. I would take thin wire and bend it around the thickness of a exacto blade. Starting small, building my skill and confidence. It won't take you long, much like life, it's trial and error. I never thought I would have the skill, confidence or brass balls to build an entire model 100% from scratch, yet the Ferdinand is my third such, and the T-37 is next.
If you haven't tried it before, TRY one of the liquid welds, I think once you do you'll really like it...
Soft Landings
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 21, 2016 17:38:31 GMT -5
Oh and lastly, I have to take "parting shot" at our friends with IPMS. When I recently displayed the Ferdinand, with all it foibles, I was told that it couldn't be a scratch-build it had to be one of those mythical Bandai 1/24th scale kits. Some people can't imagine model life without PE, aftermarket, Jaguar, Verlinden, Voyager or others. These modelers can't and NEVER will appreciate the to create. The point being, build, super-detail, and ENJOY what you create. Because there are few things that are "perfect" and my work is FAR from it. BUT for all my "soap boxing" I like and am happy with my work. And in the end that's who you need to make happy......
Softer Landings
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Post by TRM on Dec 21, 2016 22:32:39 GMT -5
Great looking scratch happening PJ! I remember having fun popping a box 35th version a while back....was a tiny little bugger...but fun just the same! I wouldn't put too much faith in some of the IPMS view points. You know the opinions are going to be out there. If they can't accept it for what it was...then it is their loss. Partly, I would be flattered somewhat if they thought it was a it with a ton of bling tossed at it....take it for what it's worth...not much...LOL!! Like we say...we have to be happy with what we're doing and what we end up with....all that matters in the end!
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 22, 2016 0:28:06 GMT -5
Welllllllllllllllllll There is no simple answer to that question...... HOWEVER........ I do a lot of trial and error. A lot of "I think this will work". Now some times it turns out pure POOOOOO. Other times looking pretty nice. For me, and me only, I use Zap, or a CA, but I really like Plastruct weld. It gives me time to wiggle things around and when the stuff sets it actually "welds" the plastic. On my Ferdinand I mostly used Plastuct Weld, and only a small amount of CA. Now as to holding things in place, I am a BIG fan of Double Sided Tape, Putty like Play-Doe, or even white glue to hold something down while work on it. You can use Forceps, I have a ton of them for just that, or even one of those high priced "third hand contraptions".
Lastly, for me, when I started down the "dark" path of Scratch Building I hand drew every thing in advance, to help me bridge the difference between what I thought, what I wanted, and then WHAT I COULD DO. Start with easy things, using brass wire, solder, and other materials that are "more forgiving". Again speaking for me I started by making storage boxes with the hasp/latch assembly. My big thing was the long hasp. I would take thin wire and bend it around the thickness of a exacto blade. Starting small, building my skill and confidence. It won't take you long, much like life, it's trial and error. I never thought I would have the skill, confidence or brass balls to build an entire model 100% from scratch, yet the Ferdinand is my third such, and the T-37 is next.
If you haven't tried it before, TRY one of the liquid welds, I think once you do you'll really like it...
Soft Landings Thank you for such a great response +1 karma to you. I have used Plast-I-Weld via the touch and flow applicator and I like it, I do find it hard to control at times. I haven't tried it on the scratch built components...I'll try it. I also have an bottle of the Plastruct Bondene which I haven't used. Is there any benefit of one over the other? I spent the evening trying to glue 3 PE fins to a piece of .8mm round plastruct rod. That was a patience stretching exercise; however, I was successful after I tried your suggestion of Playdoh type putty. That worked really well and was what allowed me to get it done.
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 22, 2016 0:30:55 GMT -5
The point being, build, super-detail, and ENJOY what you create. Because there are few things that are "perfect" and my work is FAR from it. BUT for all my "soap boxing" I like and am happy with my work. And in the end that's who you need to make happy...... Softer Landings Great advice...looking at all the simply stunning work you guys turn out on this board, its easy to get self critical and forget your very important point.
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 26, 2016 20:35:36 GMT -5
Well here is a small "post Christmas" update.... just small details.... Mostly surrounding the rear quarter, with the idler wheel support arm mountings and the "possible" mount for the propeller.
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Post by wbill76 on Dec 26, 2016 22:32:13 GMT -5
Coming along nicely PJ, should keep you busy!
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 27, 2016 0:10:44 GMT -5
Thank you for the kind words........
I spread a "little" Karma
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