adt70hk
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Currently attempting to build something decent!!! ;)
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Nov 17, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
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Post by adt70hk on Dec 19, 2016 8:44:41 GMT -5
I assembled and painted the motorcycle in 2001. Meh. Might figure out how to redo it, might leave as is and just "hide" it in the diorama. CD With regard to the bike - I wouldn't worry too much you should see some of mine. On the engine block particular and it possibly looking a bit too 'silver', I accidentally struck on a solution to a similar problem. I used some metallic gun metal to paint some of my MGs on my return to the hobby and got the same result. In an attempt to rescue the situation I painted in a dark grey (think Panzer grey or maybe a bit darker) in attempt to kill the silver. I hadn't mixed the paint properly though (I was still using enamels before branching out into acrylics) and although the silver effect was completely killed, there was still a bit of metallic sheen coming through that might work for an engine block. As I said just a thought, so no offence if you completely ignore it Andrew
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 19, 2016 8:57:30 GMT -5
Sorry to cause the trouble CD. :<(. I believed that you would want your work as accurate as possible, Joel. No worries Joel! You are right that I do want it to be accurate and any frustration is in no way directed at you. I appreciate any and all feedback.
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Post by deafpanzer on Dec 19, 2016 10:42:05 GMT -5
Gosh you are truly a building machine. The gun base is looking real good already. Dig your video clip signature by the way! LOL
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joelsmith
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Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
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Post by joelsmith on Dec 19, 2016 11:33:54 GMT -5
CD, I wasn't offended. No problems on this end, talk more soon, Joel.
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 21, 2016 10:51:57 GMT -5
The PE is due in today, so I should be able to really start making some progress over the holiday. While I've been waiting for the PE, I took a shot at upping the detail on the base. Joel pointed out that since the dio was going to depict the gun in deployed firing mode, I ought to remove the stakes from the outriggers. Doing so pretty much destroyed them and all the other details in that area of the kit, so I spent some time filing and sanding everything down to smooth again. In looking at a PDF of the Eduard PE set instructions, I was able to determine that all of the lost detail caused by removing the stakes would be able to be replaced with PE and scratchbuilding. The Tamiya kit, while very good, does has some issues. When the legs are deployed for firing, the round pin that goes through the leg to lock it in place is backwards. The kit pin is cast for the legs in the stowed position. I cut off the molded part that goes from the pin to the leg, reversed the pin and then scratch made a new assembly to connect to the leg. The small piece of steel at the leg end of the assembly is angled in real life...it just doesn't show up well in the picture. The 1:1 My Attempt to recreate On the other side of the leg the pin attaches to an arm that fits into a locking mechanism. On the Tamiya Kit, this is really poorly replicated with the arm not even reaching to the locking mechanism and the bracket on the locking mechanism being molded solid. The 1:1 My attempt to replicate...I got the arm slightly short. Overall, I'm pleased with how it's coming along. This is my first ever attempt to really super detail a kit using hand made parts. It's not up to the level of a lot of the work here, but I'm happy with how it's coming out.
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Post by Leon on Dec 21, 2016 12:25:33 GMT -5
Nice looking scratch work there CD!
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adt70hk
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Member since: November 2015
Currently attempting to build something decent!!! ;)
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Nov 17, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
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Post by adt70hk on Dec 21, 2016 13:10:48 GMT -5
Looking very nice indeed, especially as it's your first attempt at serious scratchwork.
Andrew
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joelsmith
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Post by joelsmith on Dec 21, 2016 15:22:01 GMT -5
Looking real good, CD. Keep it up, Joel.
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bbrowniii
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Mar 25, 2012 22:08:04 GMT -5
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Post by bbrowniii on Dec 21, 2016 20:04:58 GMT -5
Joel,
Really super work so far. I'm really looking forward to your progress on this.
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 21, 2016 20:54:37 GMT -5
The detail work is looking AWESOME
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Post by TRM on Dec 21, 2016 21:03:09 GMT -5
The devil is in the details! Looking good my friend, things are beginning to pop nicely!
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Post by deafpanzer on Dec 22, 2016 7:16:11 GMT -5
No details are spared in your case!!! Keep up with the great work!
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John Everett
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July, 2016 MoM Winner
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Jan 17, 2012 0:53:48 GMT -5
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Post by John Everett on Dec 23, 2016 17:41:12 GMT -5
A very good start thus far. I really like the extra detail you've been adding to the 88.
If I could offer a bit of feedback on your drawing for the whole scene, consider making it a little less orderly. At least as it's shown on paper right now, the earthworks, radio table and various other items are in a prefect perpendicular arrangement and the gun is at a perfect 45' to the edges of the scene. Break that up a little bit. Build the walls with a bit of mishmash in terms of angles, more nature, less geometry.
Also consider minimizing the role of the camo netting. It will obscure the work you've done on everything under the camo netting. This is one of those cases where the realistic thing is the wrong thing for a diorama. Even if the netting would really be used in a scene, at the end of the day, this is a scale model which you want the viewer to be able to examine.
The motorbike is cute as heck. Keep at it!
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 23, 2016 19:14:05 GMT -5
A very good start thus far. I really like the extra detail you've been adding to the 88. If I could offer a bit of feedback on your drawing for the whole scene, consider making it a little less orderly. At least as it's shown on paper right now, the earthworks, radio table and various other items are in a prefect perpendicular arrangement and the gun is at a perfect 45' to the edges of the scene. Break that up a little bit. Build the walls with a bit of mishmash in terms of angles, more nature, less geometry. Also consider minimizing the role of the camo netting. It will obscure the work you've done on everything under the camo netting. This is one of those cases where the realistic thing is the wrong thing for a diorama. Even if the netting would really be used in a scene, at the end of the day, this is a scale model which you want the viewer to be able to examine. The motorbike is cute as heck. Keep at it! Thank you, I really appreciate the advice. Your observation is spot on and I'll incorporate your thoughts and mess it up a bit.
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 24, 2016 2:17:49 GMT -5
I've made substantial progress on the base the last couple of days. I'm close to done with this part of the build. I still have a bit of clean up work to perform to remove some of my ham handed chisel and CA mistakes. The Eduard PE set for this kit is very easy to work with. The one major challenge I had was the construction of the four 3 finned stakes. If I had hair I probably would have pulled it all out a few times. The Eduard instructions say to remove the fins from the molded stakes and replace them with the PE counterparts. I don't see any real way anyone could do that without destroying them in the process. Because mine were wrecked from removing them from the kit, I just used .080 rod and attempted to glue the fins on. I got it done, but @#$&@#$(@#$&@#*(&$(@*#&$(@*#&$(@*#& in the process . I have to give a shout out to panzerjager2, without his tip to use play-doh style modeling clay, I don't think I could have done it. There is a lot of excess CA on them, but I'm very hesitant to try to sand it off as they are EXTREMELY fragile. I think I'll just do what I easily can do, and cover anything leftover with weathering during the painting process. Overall what it's looking like Retaining pins and PE More PE. I have to fix the little tab I broke off the height adjustment mechanisim...yea i'm a klutz Definetly need to clean up around the base One of the #@#($*)@#(*$!!! Stakes. Still need to sand the head down a little bit.
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Post by Leon on Dec 24, 2016 5:03:41 GMT -5
Ah the joys of working with PE! Your doing a fine job CD.
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Post by dierk on Dec 24, 2016 5:40:58 GMT -5
Doing a fine job there CD! BTW, if you want to 'fix' the bike: the main drawback of the old Tamiya bikes is that the downpipes are missing (the tubes that come out of the front of the cylinders)
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Post by panzerjager2 on Dec 24, 2016 10:38:27 GMT -5
CD,
It's a well known and highly documented fact that for me and me only I HATE, LOATH and or despise Photo-Etched parts, that being said, your work is REALLY nice, the final product as to date is outstanding. I can only imagine the effort you put in to this....keep up the good work
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 24, 2016 10:45:57 GMT -5
CD,
It's a well known and highly documented fact that for me and me only I HATE, LOATH and or despise Photo-Etched parts, that being said, your work is REALLY nice, the final product as to date is outstanding. I can only imagine the effort you put in to this....keep up the good work As this is the first time I've ever worked with PE, I've learned a lot in the process already. I'm really a bit nervous about having to solder parts together because that will combine two things I don't really know anything about...PE and Soldering. That was the main reason why I didn't go with the more complex Voyager set available for this kit.
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Post by TRM on Dec 24, 2016 10:56:34 GMT -5
Some more excellent detailing!! PE is a bit of a wildcard sometimes. Not always are the parts designed the best replacement for the kit parts...not to mention, not everyone who builds models has the patience and know-how to fabricate their own parts and make them look decent. So I guess for me, PE is acceptable...depending..LOL!! Soldering is not too bad. There are some good video that help...and of course bad, lengthy, useless videos as well. Clean, small tip...fluid flux when you want the solder. Heat should be enough for the melting point of the solder you're working with...pick up some low-temp stuff for electronics. After that, just practice and it will click!
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joelsmith
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Post by joelsmith on Dec 24, 2016 14:07:34 GMT -5
What I use is a mixture of solder & flux available from Micro-Mark. I use it exclusively on the brass muzzle brakes that come with aftermarket barrels. I have been using the same tube for the last 3 years and still have half of a tube left. HTH, Joel.
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jsteinman
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Post by jsteinman on Dec 24, 2016 14:59:41 GMT -5
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joelsmith
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There no winners in war, only survivors.
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Post by joelsmith on Dec 24, 2016 15:38:26 GMT -5
As a addendum to my soldering post above, the solder I use is "Silver Bearing Solder, Stock # 60064, 7.1 grams, solder and flux together for $14.95. Hope this helps, Joel PS Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year.
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adt70hk
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Member since: November 2015
Currently attempting to build something decent!!! ;)
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Nov 17, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
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Post by adt70hk on Dec 24, 2016 17:58:50 GMT -5
CD
They really is since great work there!!
Well done!!
Andrew
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k1w1
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Post by k1w1 on Dec 25, 2016 3:29:40 GMT -5
Nice work !. With such a busy scene the bike is probably fine how it is.
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Post by wbill76 on Dec 28, 2016 21:47:51 GMT -5
Looks like you're stretching your horizons with this on many fronts, keep it up CD!
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 28, 2016 22:41:27 GMT -5
As a addendum to my soldering post above, the solder I use is "Silver Bearing Solder, Stock # 60064, 7.1 grams, solder and flux together for $14.95. Hope this helps, Joel PS Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year. Here is the same stuff via Amazon Prime for $8.42 Silverbearing Solder
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Post by chromdome35 on Dec 28, 2016 22:45:42 GMT -5
Due to various family obligations, I haven't had much bench time since Christmas. I hope I can get some in over the next few days. What bench time I have had has been spent doing additional research on 88mm's and on my M4A3 build so nothing to really show here.
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joelsmith
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There no winners in war, only survivors.
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Post by joelsmith on Dec 29, 2016 4:58:12 GMT -5
CD, thanks for the update on the price savings, talk more soon, Joel.
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Post by wing_nut on Dec 30, 2016 9:28:24 GMT -5
Some brilliant work there.
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