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Post by Steve Zuleski on Apr 25, 2018 12:40:22 GMT -5
Looks the canine's danglies Steve! Lol, thx Bro.
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adt70hk
Forum Moderator
November '24 Showcased Model Awarded
Member since: November 2015
Currently attempting to build something decent!!! ;)
Posts: 2,834
MSC Staff
Nov 17, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
Nov 17, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
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Post by adt70hk on Apr 26, 2018 13:17:31 GMT -5
Yet again some great work!
Looking very good.
ATB
Andrew
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Apr 27, 2018 0:33:17 GMT -5
Thx Andrew, greatly appreciated
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k1w1
Full Member
Member since: February 2015
Posts: 873
Feb 18, 2015 8:07:41 GMT -5
Feb 18, 2015 8:07:41 GMT -5
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Post by k1w1 on Apr 27, 2018 9:04:20 GMT -5
Wow ... Impressive work.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Apr 27, 2018 21:44:49 GMT -5
Thx K1W1!
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Post by Steve Zuleski on May 2, 2018 13:53:03 GMT -5
Sanding The Deck Gun And Mount
Ok, now that the deck has been completed and is ready for priming and painting it's time to fight the good fight and sand the deck gun and mount. The mount was not such a big deal, but this gun is one piece and it has some very delicate parts within the structure that are not easy to get to. As you can see, cutting up sand paper into long strips was a necessity and saved my sanity.
I ran into a fore mentioned issue with improperly mixed resin on this gun, so it's been a long process to bring it in to line. I am paying for my lack of attention to detail weeks ago, go figure. Ah, t'sall good!
I will say this, without my Yost miniature vise I would have gone battys by now. This vise was one of the best investments I've made for the model bunker in a long time. I was able to get a decent grip on this gun so I could get to those tight spots.
I recon any miniature vise will work, but I did do my research on vises and found that the Yost vise has the best design for my needs. It has already been upgraded to avoid the retaining washers from crimping and failing. Meaning, a common issue with these smaller vises is the retaining/tension ring/washer has a tendency to fail and you won't get your vise open. Now, that would not be any fun if I had this gun stuck in that vise, nuff said!
More to follow soon, if I ever get this gun sanded, HA! Cheers, Ski.
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Post by Leon on May 2, 2018 19:16:39 GMT -5
Nice looking gun Ski! Id be afraid of breaking something trying to sand that.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on May 4, 2018 0:37:32 GMT -5
It is a pain and very time consuming Leon. Thx buddy!
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Post by TRM on May 8, 2018 18:18:56 GMT -5
Stunning work on this so far Steve! She is going to be a looker when it gets around to painting! Keep at it brother!
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Post by Steve Zuleski on May 9, 2018 12:39:20 GMT -5
Thx Mr. T.
It's taking a back seat right now Brotha, unfortunately. Just had the dozer up here the last two days, the building season is now in full swing:( Ah, the sooner I get all this stuff done the sooner I get back to the bunker.
More to follow as time allows. Cheers, Ski.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on May 11, 2018 19:40:04 GMT -5
Still More SandingI gave the gun and deck and gun a primer coat and then went back and started sanding the imperfections found in all the nooks and crannies. The primer coat really brought out areas that were hard to see otherwise. The gun is proving to be the most time consuming, but that is the nature of the nylon 3D printing material. Even after using the XTC-3D and sanding the snot out of it I still had a lot of work to do to get rid of the "fuzzy hairs" and bumps. This will take several coats of primer in specific problem areas to remedy, all while ensuring I don't cover up any details. Some of the areas were gently scraped with a sharp flat dental tool while other tight areas were accessed by using various types of files, such as sanding sticks, finger nails filers, standard models files and strips of sanding paper as shown before. The gun may not look so good right now, i.e., the fuzz, but slowly I am making progress. I just keep the DVD player running with "Das Boot", "Gray Lady Down" or some other submariner movie and I barely notice the clock, HA! The deck portion of this beast was not so bad. The XTC-3D worked really well on this section, but it still had the typical nylon print issues. Given it's a much flatter surface it was easier to clean up, but there is still a "boat load" of fuzz on the actual grid deck. Trust me, you won't see it when I'm done and I ain't gonna sweat the piddly stuff, not gonna do it, lol. Also, there is some clean up around the tower bolts/rivets that were created when sanding and filing before the primer coat. I'll go back and add some putty to smooth out those surface areas. All these little details will scream at you in this scale, so don't neglect them, you'll pay for it in end if you do. The minor blemishes on the starboard ladder section will be filled and filed. If you look closely you can see the geometry of the print still visible on the ventilation tube. I've sanded that till I'm blue in the face and it still wants to be part of the picture. I'm not sure how much further I can go down without distorting the details, but I may have to Dremel it a bit to square it up before I call it good. One item that is not pictured here is the sights on the gun itself. The nylon print is super bulky and looks way out of proportion, so I'll scratch build another one out of thin wire and mount it. This would be a great place for some PE, but I'm not going to learn that process today, lol. Ok, time permitting, I'll get the sanding closed out and get ready cables, ship's bell, minor details and painting, yehaaaaaaa! Thx for watchin. Cheers, Ski. P.S. It's building time again, here's what is hopefully one of the last 1:1 scale builds to take my bunker time. I should have done this years ago, but there you have it, lol.
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joelsmith
Full Member
Member since: July 2012
There no winners in war, only survivors.
Posts: 1,404
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
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Post by joelsmith on May 11, 2018 20:43:24 GMT -5
Ski, if you need a "Speed Ring" type of sight, take a fan cover from a Leopard II PE Set and trim it to size. Works a champ!
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Post by Steve Zuleski on May 12, 2018 9:55:28 GMT -5
Ski, if you need a "Speed Ring" type of sight, take a fan cover from a Leopard II PE Set and trim it to size. Works a champ! Bro, what a killer idea!!!!!!!!!! I have an extra PE set, as a matter of fact. I was going to do some kind of wire type set up with a thicker outer ring. Great tip Brotha, Thank you mucho! Cheers, Ski.
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joelsmith
Full Member
Member since: July 2012
There no winners in war, only survivors.
Posts: 1,404
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
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Post by joelsmith on May 12, 2018 18:47:26 GMT -5
I'll send you a bill at the end of the month! ;<)
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Post by Steve Zuleski on May 13, 2018 0:34:32 GMT -5
I'll send you a bill at the end of the month! ;<) No worries, it's rubber check day anywho, HA!
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joelsmith
Full Member
Member since: July 2012
There no winners in war, only survivors.
Posts: 1,404
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
Jul 5, 2012 22:33:58 GMT -5
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Post by joelsmith on May 13, 2018 18:24:04 GMT -5
Zats how you save money for modeling!
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Post by Leon on May 13, 2018 19:01:44 GMT -5
That is some really amazing work Ski! Rock and Roll buddy.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on May 14, 2018 0:09:54 GMT -5
Thx Leon.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Oct 31, 2018 15:36:37 GMT -5
Ok Gents, the bunker has been cranked up to full power and we are in business once again, it's been a long summer.
In this section of the blog I'll be covering Alpine's 1/16th scale German U-Boat Watch Officer, kit #16036. Now, yall may remember I've already done this figure for Track-link, exclusive build. Well, I paid for this Watch Officer to go with Alpine's 1/16th scale German U-Boat Captain, kit # 16021, which I did not pay for. So, the Watch Officer in this blog and the Captain will appear in the final pics for this particular blog, the Gun Deck. Basically, since I paid for it, I post as I please, right? Right! The Captain will "not" be a feature in this blog except for the final pics. Clear as mud, I know, HA!
Here we have the motley crew all together.
Now, what you did not see, unless you visited my blog on TL, was the method used to paint the face specifically. I ran across a young lady's work on YT showing how she blends oils and starts from a basic grey background and produces some incredible work. So much so that I've used it to paint the Captain's face exclusively, with better than expected results. That partial head painted you see on the right was painted as a test run for this method. The pretty young lady's name is Daria Callie. She's very well known in the portrait community and she has several videos you can use to perfect your techniques. I had to go through the videos once again to get back into the swing of things, so to speak, after a long summer season.
A frontal view showing the flesh tones blended without a base tone. The pics are a bit glossy, but oils will dull after a few days. There's still plenty to work over on this head, but for right now, he's looking pretty good for starters. I painted this head in just over four hours, that's a first! I plan to nail this method down hard, it works too well to just let it get rusty in the ol cabesa.
The eyes will be worked a bit more, plus blending more tones/values into the surrounding upper cheek and below the eyes, etc.
After a few days I will go over the beard to get it dialed in. The lips will be worked a bit more too. As you can see, the gloss from the oils makes it difficult to really see all the detail, but they will become more apparent after the Dull Coat.
At any rate, it's been one heck of a long summer and I'm glad to be back in the bunker. The only thing stopping me now is plowing snow, and that ain't so bad, HA!
Thanks for watching, more to follow soon. Cheers, Ski.
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captfue
Full Member
Member since: October 2012
Posts: 311
Oct 1, 2012 22:25:19 GMT -5
Oct 1, 2012 22:25:19 GMT -5
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Post by captfue on Oct 31, 2018 22:00:04 GMT -5
impressive work
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Nov 1, 2018 0:47:27 GMT -5
Thx Captfue!
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Post by Leon on Nov 1, 2018 4:42:01 GMT -5
WOW....He is looking good Ski!
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Nov 1, 2018 9:30:03 GMT -5
Thx Leon. I'll be taking pics of the progress so far today, this time making sure the glare isn't so bad. Yall are not able to see much detail, my bad.
Thx for watchin, Ski.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Nov 1, 2018 12:45:32 GMT -5
I realized I never did a "white balance" before taking the last set of pics, oops, my bad. At any rate, I did some reworking of the eyes, cheeks and lips. While that was drying I used oils for the cap leather strap and worked the gold trim on the elements. In a few days the original layer of oils will be close to dried at which time I'll start adding layers of reddish tones where needed as well as defining the eye lids, etc. There's still plenty to do, but we are making progress. Hopefully this head will be done in a few days and then it will be uniform time. Remember "ol one eye"? This was a perfect head to practice on. As you can see this is just a rough draft, but it shows just how easy the techniques described above really works. A big thanks goes out to Steve Readdie of "Reedees Miniatures" for supplying several different heads. www.reedeesminiatures.co.uk/the-quartermasters/1-9---200mmMore to follow and thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Nov 3, 2018 21:39:51 GMT -5
A bit more progress has been accomplished. It should be noted here that I gave the head a shot of Dull Coat before starting any of the steps mentioned below so as not to disturb any prior work. I spent about another four hours reworking the eyes, what a pain in the tuckus. I'm so use to the 200mm figures that just stepping down to 1/16th can be a bit challenging, especially after a long break from the paints. But, once in the groove it started to comply with my wishes, lol. Ok, I was able to get the ever so slight glint in the eyes and definition around the pupils. I use acrylics for eye work because it dries faster and is easier to control in such a small area. I had to lighten the eye around the pupil a bit and redo the lower lid for definition as well. Touch up around the eyes will also be addressed, such as slight feathering of lighter tones under the eyes, crows feet, etc. Next up I worked the cap using Ultra Marine Blue, Titanium White, and a touch of Paynes Gray. The recesses were feathered in before adding the highlights. Once the oils were in place I feathered them all together in the appropriate locations. So far so good. I also added Paynes Gray, Titanium White, and a touch of Ivory Black to highlight the beard, which still has plenty of work needed. When the oils set in a day or so I'll make a filter pass with black and Dark Earth acrylics to work into the recesses of the beard, bring in more definition in that area. Once these next few steps are completed and the head is in a satisfactory condition I'll move on to the uniforms of both figures. I'm really excited to finally be getting to the jackets and trousers. More to follow soon and thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
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adt70hk
Forum Moderator
November '24 Showcased Model Awarded
Member since: November 2015
Currently attempting to build something decent!!! ;)
Posts: 2,834
MSC Staff
Nov 17, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
Nov 17, 2015 7:23:30 GMT -5
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Post by adt70hk on Nov 4, 2018 7:33:23 GMT -5
Simply stunning!! Very well done!!!
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Nov 4, 2018 9:33:57 GMT -5
Thanks, greatly appreciated.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Feb 22, 2019 23:07:27 GMT -5
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Post by Tobi on Feb 22, 2019 23:59:57 GMT -5
Just catching up, really impressive work.
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Feb 23, 2019 14:32:15 GMT -5
Thx Tobi, it's been awhile for this dio.
Cheers, Ski.
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