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Post by Tobi on Jan 14, 2023 14:08:23 GMT -5
That's looking great. Skyrocketing, just like I told you.
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Post by chromdome35 on Jan 14, 2023 15:07:44 GMT -5
and you should be. Those results are stunning. Great work Brian!! That's looking great. Skyrocketing, just like I told you. Thank you! |
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Prop Duster
Full Member
Member since: January 2013
just learned to spell CA. workin' on PE now.
Posts: 242
Jan 27, 2013 19:17:30 GMT -5
Jan 27, 2013 19:17:30 GMT -5
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Post by Prop Duster on Jan 19, 2023 7:28:44 GMT -5
With all your good work chromedome. I just wish you would get a more light hearted avaitar as befits you high statis  ( it really is funny) |
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Jan 20, 2023 6:33:09 GMT -5
OPR is looking good from here, keep er rollin.
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Post by chromdome35 on Jan 28, 2023 14:27:34 GMT -5
Based on the recommendations from the board, I have been acquiring the Tank Art series of books. So far I have 1,3, & 4 but #2 has remained elusive due to being out of stock everywhere and prices at $126+ on eBay. Last night someone listed a copy of 2 for sale for 69.99 with the opportunity to make an offer which I did do for $59. He accepted and I have #2 on the way now.  These books are great, I have a bookshelf full of modeling books and none of them approach the quality of this series. If I had to pick 4 books and get rid of the rest, I'd keep the 4 tank art books. Rinaldi also has a lot of (painfully long) videos that show him using these techniques on models. They are great in that they don't just talk about the technique and show the finished product, he goes into detail about how to do it. For me, they have been eye-opening and will change the way I approach painting my models. I haven't made a lot of progress on my active builds and this paint mule recently because I've been devouring the books and videos. I'm excited to obtain Book 2 as it deals with the allied vehicles which are what I have on the bench now (M48 & M4A3). I've been holding off proceeding with them as I studied. I have also been upgrading my oils paints. In the various discussions of OPR there are statements about using the right quality of paint. There are student oil paints and artist oil paints which supposedly differ in quality. The standard thought is that the student oils don't have as high a quality of pigments and use more fillers than the artist quality paints. I'm always a bit of a skeptic when it comes to statements about one company's products vs another; however, I have learned and now agree, there is a difference. Last night I decided to make a color swatch board of my various oil paints.  Doing this, I saw that the artist quality paints, had better coverage and were "smoother" than the student quality paints. When I thinned them down to make washes, you could see the student oils didn't break down as easy and were "lumpy" while the artist oils melted like butter. Look at the difference in the Raw Sienna's (Left side middle). MT = Master Touch (Hobby Lobby's house brand, student oils) vs the Winsor and Newton Artist Oil. Major color difference and quality. I really like this color chart, it's nice to be able to see and compare the colors. I'm thinking about doing this for my other paints. Have any of you done anything similar? |
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Post by Tobi on Jan 29, 2023 5:42:44 GMT -5
WOW! Now you're going professional!  Where can I find those Rinaldi videos? In the past I didn't do exhaustive OPR on my models, because my understanding was limited, even after reading the books. But to see him in action might give me a new push. Regarding color charts, I've started doing this as well, not too long ago. I have been making color chip samples on 0,4mm white plastic card, airbrushing colors from the same range and different brands, in order of being better able to decide which and what for my different projects, depending on the desired look. Here is a selection from my "Wehrmacht Dunkelgelb" range. Currently there exist two more pages like this. In total I have 12 and a half pages up 'til now in my library: mainly Greens, Browns & Greys. RC = Real Colors, AMIG = Ammo of Mig, GH = Gunze Aqeous, XF = self explanatory, GS = Gunze Lacquer, MMP = Rinaldi paint line.  |
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Post by mustang1989 on Jan 29, 2023 7:37:00 GMT -5
Based on the recommendations from the board, I have been acquiring the Tank Art series of books. So far I have 1,3, & 4 but #2 has remained elusive due to being out of stock everywhere and prices at $126+ on eBay. Last night someone listed a copy of 2 for sale for 69.99 with the opportunity to make an offer which I did do for $59. He accepted and I have #2 on the way now. These books are great, I have a bookshelf full of modeling books and none of them approach the quality of this series. If I had to pick 4 books and get rid of the rest, I'd keep the 4 tank art books. Rinaldi also has a lot of (painfully long) videos that show him using these techniques on models. They are great in that they don't just talk about the technique and show the finished product, he goes into detail about how to do it. For me, they have been eye-opening and will change the way I approach painting my models. I haven't made a lot of progress on my active builds and this paint mule recently because I've been devouring the books and videos. I'm excited to obtain Book 2 as it deals with the allied vehicles which are what I have on the bench now (M48 & M4A3). I've been holding off proceeding with them as I studied. I have also been upgrading my oils paints. In the various discussions of OPR there are statements about using the right quality of paint. There are student oil paints and artist oil paints which supposedly differ in quality. The standard thought is that the student oils don't have as high a quality of pigments and use more fillers than the artist quality paints. I'm always a bit of a skeptic when it comes to statements about one company's products vs another; however, I have learned and now agree, there is a difference. Last night I decided to make a color swatch board of my various oil paints. Doing this, I saw that the artist quality paints, had better coverage and were "smoother" than the student quality paints. When I thinned them down to make washes, you could see the student oils didn't break down as easy and were "lumpy" while the artist oils melted like butter. Look at the difference in the Raw Sienna's (Left side middle). MT = Master Touch (Hobby Lobby's house brand, student oils) vs the Winsor and Newton Artist Oil. Major color difference and quality. I really like this color chart, it's nice to be able to see and compare the colors. I'm thinking about doing this for my other paints. Have any of you done anything similar? I'll be coming back to this. I don't have the money to get any of these.......just yet, but it's in my target view for sure. |
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Post by Tobi on Jan 29, 2023 9:18:15 GMT -5
Depending on the pigment, some oils can get pretty expensive. There are tiny little tubes out there which can cost easily $70 each. In my early days as a student, I once had a pretty indigo blue in my shopping basket among other colors. Turned a little pale when the cashier called out the total, so I gave it back to her.  |
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Post by chromdome35 on Jan 29, 2023 10:33:17 GMT -5
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Post by chromdome35 on Jan 29, 2023 10:37:25 GMT -5
Yea they can get pricy quickly. The Winsor and Newton Artist series sells for 10 to 20 a tube here in the states.
502’s tubes are around $8 a tune and the quality was great when I was doing my color chart. 502 also has a good color palette available aimed at scale modeling. This is where I will be focusing my purchases.
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Post by Tobi on Jan 29, 2023 12:58:27 GMT -5
Fanx, I'll dig into this in the spare time during my upcoming business trip next week. |
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Post by Steve Zuleski on Jan 29, 2023 14:06:18 GMT -5
I never found that page, sheesh, great find. These books are a must, IMHO, for the tool box int he bunker. Tanks for the link, Brian! Joie, these books would be great for someone just starting on armor as well. The learning curve will be reduced significantly with a little practice. |
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Whiterook
Full Member
Member since: March 2013
Posts: 837
Mar 13, 2013 15:29:19 GMT -5
Mar 13, 2013 15:29:19 GMT -5
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Post by Whiterook on Feb 17, 2023 10:25:51 GMT -5
…I modified things a little by buying acrylic based oil paints that can be mixed with Vallejos or similar. Extends the time they are workable and removable, but not so extreme like in real OPR. You can work with tap water, though there are odorless thinners for oil paints available these days. And with oil paints I feel always the need to clear coat them for sealing. It's a quirk. Here in the States, if it’s the same product I think you’re talking about… they are called “Water Miscible Oils” (a.k.a., water mixable oils). Windsor & Newton and Grumbacher are the two best, in my personal experience…but there are cheaper versions out there; you get what you pay for, and that translates to the fineness of the pigments in manufacturing. My college training and degree were in Fine Art (mainly focused on painting and sculpture, but other media as well) and I started as an oil painter… until I married in the early 1980’s, and discovered my wife has several chemical intolerances… that had me switching to non-toxic painting media right down to the turp I used! …the good thing about that is…*non-toxic*. I’m all about that these days, and though it’s greenie, it really is better for the environs, as well as you. (I worked for the Federal government, in the worlds’ leading conservation agency so, there is that side of it, too, lol). But I digress… water miscible worls every bit as good as oils for me, and is far easier for the non-art profession user (I hope that didn’t sound snobby  ) Depending on the pigment, some oils can get pretty expensive. There are tiny little tubes out there which can cost easily $70 each. In my early days as a student, I once had a pretty indigo blue in my shopping basket among other colors. Turned a little pale when the cashier called out the total, so I gave it back to her. …alive wrested with this, from a cost perspective. I kinda have no choice, as if you read the above, you know I pretty much have to use non-toxic paints for artwork, but what it also came down to me for model building, in the final analysis was… you more often than not pay upwards of $100 USD and beyond, for a new model kit, which is basically a one-off project… a tube of high quality paint, used as outlined in this thread, will last most of us a lifetime; it’s an investment, if you can afford it, that is….bit following that logic, if money were the up issue, I shouldn’t be modeling, or wargaming, or playing the acoustic guitar, or…. Yea they can get pricy quickly. The Winsor and Newton Artist series sells for 10 to 20 a tube here in the states. 502’s tubes are around $8 a tune and the quality was great when I was doing my color chart. 502 also has a good color palette available aimed at scale modeling. This is where I will be focusing my purchases. Sadly, some of the best paints in the world are from overseas companies, yet cheaper here in the States. It’s an upside down world! On this thread… fantastic amounts of info here! I’ve learned a lot, and many new resources to explore. I’m grateful to you CD for your honesty and investigative mind! …the discussions it prompted are pure gold, or Bitcoin (whatever your $£ bag is!). |
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