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Post by kyledehart5 on Jan 25, 2024 14:03:42 GMT -5
I really like that green!!
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midnightprowler
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Post by midnightprowler on Jan 25, 2024 17:57:36 GMT -5
Mek is a faster(hotter) solvent than acetone.
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Jan 25, 2024 20:23:50 GMT -5
Shot with clear and polished that color is going to be radiant! Thanks Brent! I’ve been purposely painting the inside of the hood with the lacquer because from what I remember on my 72 Mustang, they didn’t care as much about making it shiny. That MCW enamel, on the other hand…wow! That stuff didn’t seem to actually need a clearcoat or any polishing. At least for the Acapulco Blue, it layed down glass smooth and shined like a mirror, especially after adding another shot of Mr. Color Leveling thinner to the airbrush cup for the final coat. I was afraid to try touching it a few days later because it looked like it was still wet. But it wasn't...it was fully cured. I really like that green!! Thanks Kyle! I like it too…I remember seeing a couple of 71 Mach 1s back when I was in high school going to Mustang Club rallies that were painted that color. I had completely forgotten about it until I started doing an on-line picture search to figure out how to make use of the black stripe decals. Definitely triggered my memories of those rallies and what a cool color combination that was. Mek is a faster(hotter) solvent than acetone. That hasn’t been my experience. Acetone will strip things that MEK won’t even touch, such as silk-screened placards on aircraft instrument panels. Its scary how quickly it works on those, and those are incredibly difficult to delete from a panel after they’ve cured. Acetone is just more difficult to work with because it evaporates almost as quickly as you can get it out of the can. MEK evaporates quickly too, but its SLOW compared to Acetone.
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Jan 25, 2024 20:40:00 GMT -5
Give it a try...I've been using it for 20+ yrs. Along with CA, 2 part epoxy and Testors red tube. As far as working time...the MEK is maybe 10 sec or so. I can only find gallon cans of MIK around here (Louisville ky). the quart cans are always the MEK substitute. I'm fortunate enough to have an aviation supplier that I work with on a regular basis who always has MEK in stock. Its also in gallon cans, but I figure there's never any harm in buying a gallon of it...its not like the stuff goes bad. Heh...most of the hardware stores around here in Colorado have gone so PC that you can't even find denatured alcohol anymore, and the stuff being taken off the shelf is mostly due to urban legends anyway.
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midnightprowler
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Post by midnightprowler on Jan 26, 2024 17:18:19 GMT -5
Shot with clear and polished that color is going to be radiant! Thanks Brent! I’ve been purposely painting the inside of the hood with the lacquer because from what I remember on my 72 Mustang, they didn’t care as much about making it shiny. That MCW enamel, on the other hand…wow! That stuff didn’t seem to actually need a clearcoat or any polishing. At least for the Acapulco Blue, it layed down glass smooth and shined like a mirror, especially after adding another shot of Mr. Color Leveling thinner to the airbrush cup for the final coat. I was afraid to try touching it a few days later because it looked like it was still wet. But it wasn't...it was fully cured. I really like that green!! Thanks Kyle! I like it too…I remember seeing a couple of 71 Mach 1s back when I was in high school going to Mustang Club rallies that were painted that color. I had completely forgotten about it until I started doing an on-line picture search to figure out how to make use of the black stripe decals. Definitely triggered my memories of those rallies and what a cool color combination that was. Mek is a faster(hotter) solvent than acetone. That hasn’t been my experience. Acetone will strip things that MEK won’t even touch, such as silk-screened placards on aircraft instrument panels. Its scary how quickly it works on those, and those are incredibly difficult to delete from a panel after they’ve cured. Acetone is just more difficult to work with because it evaporates almost as quickly as you can get it out of the can. MEK evaporates quickly too, but its SLOW compared to Acetone. That's why it's " hotter". It evaporates more quickly. It's more caustic as well. I'm a cabinet finisher/painter by trade most of my life. I know a little bit about some of our modeling chemicals.👍😉
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Jan 26, 2024 19:49:47 GMT -5
That's why it's " hotter". It evaporates more quickly. It's more caustic as well. I'm a cabinet finisher/painter by trade most of my life. I know a little bit about some of our modeling chemicals.👍😉 I'm pretty sure you said MEK was hotter than Acetone though. Acetone is the one that evaporates more quickly. Its the higher boiling point of MEK (slower evaporation rate) that makes it a preferable solvent between the two for most applications. I'm an avionics technician/system engineer/installer by trade for 30 years, and work with both all the time as part of the job. I won't be using Acetone with my modeling stuff because of the nearly instantaneous evaporation issue, and only use it in my job when MEK isn't working. We'll just have to agree to disagree on this one.
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midnightprowler
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Post by midnightprowler on Jan 27, 2024 16:19:01 GMT -5
Stick your finger in acetone. Feel how cold it feels when you remove it. Then do the same with mek. You will notice it feels colder. That is because it's evaporating quicker. That's why it doesn't allow for much time to position parts when being used straight as a model cement. It was explained to me many years ago it's "hotter". Yeah we'll agree to disagree.
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Jan 28, 2024 13:43:32 GMT -5
Got the lacquer base coat laid down on the body and top of the hood today. I elected not to mess with the ejector pin marks on the headliner this time around, as there's no way anybody's gonna be able to see those. Also decided to put some masking sheet material inside, just to keep the spider-webbing to a minimum...which I think was causing a lot of my mysterious "schmutz" problems on the previous attempt. Seems to have worked. Ended up finding out on accident with the blue body attempt that its much easier to get a good gloss with the MCW enamel if you paint the whole thing with the same color of MCW lacquer first. Haven't found out why that is yet...all I know is that it works. Should be putting the enamel on either today or tomorrow.
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Jan 28, 2024 17:29:43 GMT -5
Got the enamel on this afternoon. The enamel laid down really nicely, and then I shot some more Mr. Color Leveling Thinner into the color cup at the end for a final wet coat. Mixed just a little bit of extra hardener into the enamel, so it should be fully cured by tomorrow. With any luck, I'll still be afraid to touch it because it looks wet like it does now. Just ordered some more cotton gloves. Gonna use those and wear a glove on the hand that is going to be holding and moving it to do the decal application. That way I'll avoid the contamination issue I had on the first attempt. Nice and shiny with no polishing!
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70 STING
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Post by 70 STING on Jan 28, 2024 21:38:40 GMT -5
Awesome wet look. I have to try that final top coat of Unicorn Tears (MLT).
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maverick
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Post by maverick on Jan 29, 2024 16:23:50 GMT -5
You basically used the lacquer top coat as a tinted primer/sealer...Putting the enamel over it richens up the color and retains its gloss better than over plain old primer, which will absorb the paint to a degree in order for the top coat to adhere completely. That will pull some of the gloss out of the paint on the first two coats... Now, If you used an enamel reducer instead of a lacquer one ( I know why you do it that way, I do too on occasion) There would be even more gloss since lacquer tends to pull some of the shine out of enamel paint when you it as a reducer in enamel... Looks good from my house either way! Good color choice too...
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maverick
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Post by maverick on Jan 29, 2024 16:25:42 GMT -5
Unicorn tears are expensive and hard to come by around here... I prefer to use the fat of unconsecrated children...
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midnightprowler
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Post by midnightprowler on Jan 29, 2024 18:06:53 GMT -5
Beautiful color and paint work.
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Jan 29, 2024 18:51:48 GMT -5
Thanks guys!
Maverick, thanks for the explanation on that. If I ever build a car again after this, I'll definitely have to see what an enamel reducer does. Do you have any recommendations for an enamel reducer that's compatible with the MCW enamels?
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Post by kyledehart5 on Jan 29, 2024 20:10:11 GMT -5
Alternatively, rather than using your MCW lacquer as a tinted primer; You can also just tint your white or light gray lacquer primer with a similar color to what your top cost will be. A few drops of green, say, in some white primer would accomplish similar results. Good info about the lacquer thinner dulling the enamel. I use the MLT with all my enamels just so they dry faster. The less glossy finish doesn’t bother me.
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70 STING
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Post by 70 STING on Jan 30, 2024 10:30:29 GMT -5
Unicorn tears are expensive and hard to come by around here... I prefer to use the fat of unconsecrated children...
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brandonk
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Post by brandonk on Jan 30, 2024 10:43:11 GMT -5
Can't believe that I've missed all this. Great work on the new kit. I've heard this is really a nice kit that builds up well. Love what you have going here. Bookmarked, better late than never.
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maverick
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Post by maverick on Jan 30, 2024 15:20:57 GMT -5
Thanks guys! Maverick, thanks for the explanation on that. If I ever build a car again after this, I'll definitely have to see what an enamel reducer does. Do you have any recommendations for an enamel reducer that's compatible with the MCW enamels? Haven't used the MCW paints. If they don't sell a reducer for their product... Your going to have to experiment. PPG makes an enamel/urethane reducer that seems pretty stable. If I remember, I'll get the PN for you tomorrow.
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brandonk
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Post by brandonk on Jan 30, 2024 15:23:35 GMT -5
Thanks guys! Maverick, thanks for the explanation on that. If I ever build a car again after this, I'll definitely have to see what an enamel reducer does. Do you have any recommendations for an enamel reducer that's compatible with the MCW enamels? Haven't used the MCW paints. If they don't sell a reducer for their product... Your going to have to experiment. PPG makes an enamel/urethane reducer that seems pretty stable. If I remember, I'll get the PN for you tomorrow. MCW paints are great. Super easy to work with and yes, they do have hardeners and reducers that you can get as well.
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RetroSpectKustoms
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Post by RetroSpectKustoms on Feb 7, 2024 0:49:41 GMT -5
Great colour.
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Feb 25, 2024 19:53:06 GMT -5
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Post by kyledehart5 on Feb 25, 2024 19:54:53 GMT -5
Definitely looks great in this color combo.
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TJ
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Post by TJ on Feb 26, 2024 5:39:26 GMT -5
This color really pops
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70 STING
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Post by 70 STING on Feb 26, 2024 7:19:31 GMT -5
Nice job on the chrome trim.
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brandonk
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Post by brandonk on Feb 26, 2024 10:46:51 GMT -5
Color really makes or breaks a car and this body style never really looked all that great to me. In this color this one looks stunning. She is a real show stopper dressed in green and black. Fantastic work!!
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handiabled
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Post by handiabled on Feb 28, 2024 2:46:28 GMT -5
The color, stripe and chrome really pull the look of this together wonderfully! That is one awesome finish on your paint work!
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Post by 406 Silverado on Feb 28, 2024 7:27:49 GMT -5
Such a good-looking color and those cals just set everything off eagle. I had the same thing happen to me regarding MCW paints and spider webbing so I started mixing just a wee bit of Restorations Shops Slow Lacquer Thinner LT-85 into the paint jar when shooting their colors and VIOLA....problem solved. I do like the explanation that Pete ( maverick) gave for the "order of battle" in regard to bringing out the shine a little more. You're workin' some mighty fine magic into this car buddy.
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lyle
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Post by lyle on Feb 28, 2024 9:01:59 GMT -5
Great color!
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