Hataka lacquers, anybody?

[fermis]

 I switched over to Hataka lacquer...after Model Masters went the way of the Dodo (I REALLY miss those)
I've been using Minwax clear gloss lacquer for my gloss coats. Never had a problem with it, over MM enamels...as long as I didn't get too heavy with the 1st coat.
This is not so with Hataka. Even going light, I'll get areas that crinkle the $#!T out of the paint. Kinda makes me hate life and wish I was dead! (1st world problems, right?!!!)
Anyway...anybody else using Hataka lacquers? What do you use for gloss(without issue)?

The other issue I have with them...is having it peel up with masking tape, occasionally. Not a HUGE deal, but is annoying as all get out!
Another issue I didn't have with MM. Even though I am using Rustolium (which did Testors/MM) enamels for my base.

[keavdog]

I've only used them a couple of times - assume you're using their Orange line. Once was awesome - the other it seemed to react(not pull up) to the masking tape I applied. I'm guessing may need to let it dry thoroughly. I bought all the funky colors for my Argentinian Pucara from them so I'll have to see how that goes. I tend to use future for aircraft gloss clear coats - pretty inert.

[TOWGunner]

Oh man I love Hataka lacquers! The Orange Line. They airbrush straight from the bottle (or thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner) and shoot like a dream. I shoot them straight on clean plastic, no primer, and have never had paint pull up. I do armor, so I mask with poster putty. I gloss coat with Future (now replaced by Holloway House Quick Shine) and have never had a bad reaction. Not only are they excellent, high quality paints, they produce box sets for most major countries' camouflage (armor) from WWII to present day. Great paint!

[fermis]

Feb 13, 2024 17:13:51 GMT -5 keavdog said:

I've only used them a couple of times - assume you're using their Orange line. Once was awesome - the other it seemed to react(not pull up) to the masking tape I applied. I'm guessing may need to let it dry thoroughly. I bought all the funky colors for my Argentinian Pucara from them so I'll have to see how that goes. I tend to use future for aircraft gloss clear coats - pretty inert.

I'd love to see that Pucara!!! (assuming you haven't got to it yet?)
I did...Special Hobby(?) 1/72 kit. A bit of work, but comes out nice. I like it!!!

I have tried Future, in the past...it didn't go well at all. Looked like a cat pissed all over my model!
I do like Future for under decals though.

[fermis]

Feb 13, 2024 17:33:30 GMT -5 TOWGunner said:

Oh man I love Hataka lacquers! The Orange Line. They airbrush straight from the bottle (or thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner) and shoot like a dream. I shoot them straight on clean plastic, no primer, and have never had paint pull up. I do armor, so I mask with poster putty. I gloss coat with Future (now replaced by Holloway House Quick Shine) and have never had a bad reaction. Not only are they excellent, high quality paints, they produce box sets for most major countries' camouflage (armor) from WWII to present day. Great paint!

 Yup, Orange line.
I do like them (aside from the issues I've had). I have found that I have to thin them, at least 50/50 (using Hataka's thinner) for them to spray nicely.
"Peel up" w/tape was worse, when I used strictly Hataka. I do the "black base" thing, with white "marbling".
The problem really is minor, compared to what it could be, but is still an issue. Even with de-tacking the tape, by sticking/peeling from my hand or forehead.
I've been using poster putty for yeeaarrrrrs, and have no problems with that. Hard to use that for straight/hard edged lines!

[keavdog]

Feb 13, 2024 18:00:35 GMT -5 fermis said:

Feb 13, 2024 17:13:51 GMT -5 keavdog said:

I've only used them a couple of times - assume you're using their Orange line. Once was awesome - the other it seemed to react(not pull up) to the masking tape I applied. I'm guessing may need to let it dry thoroughly. I bought all the funky colors for my Argentinian Pucara from them so I'll have to see how that goes. I tend to use future for aircraft gloss clear coats - pretty inert.

I'd love to see that Pucara!!! (assuming you haven't got to it yet?)
I did...Special Hobby(?) 1/72 kit. A bit of work, but comes out nice. I like it!!!

I have tried Future, in the past...it didn't go well at all. Looked like a cat pissed all over my model!
I do like Future for under decals though.

Haven't got to the Pucara yet.  It's the 1/48 Kinetic kit.  Looks nice.  www.scalemates.com/kits/kinetic-k48078-ia-58-pucara--1124236

[nathant]

I use Hataka orange top lacquers. I don’t have any issues at all, but I use lacquers for everything. Mr. Surfacer for priming, and Mr. Color GX 100 for clear gloss, or Tamiya X-1 thinner with leveling thinner. Maybe it’s the mixed mediums that are giving you trouble.

[nathant]

Feb 13, 2024 18:42:07 GMT -5 nathant said:

I use Hataka orange top lacquers. I don’t have any issues at all, but I use lacquers for everything. Mr. Surfacer for priming, and Mr. Color GX 100 for clear gloss, or Tamiya X-1 thinned with leveling thinner. Maybe it’s the mixed mediums that are giving you trouble.

[fermis]

Feb 13, 2024 18:24:20 GMT -5 keavdog said:

Feb 13, 2024 18:00:35 GMT -5 fermis said:

I'd love to see that Pucara!!! (assuming you haven't got to it yet?)
I did...Special Hobby(?) 1/72 kit. A bit of work, but comes out nice. I like it!!!

I have tried Future, in the past...it didn't go well at all. Looked like a cat pissed all over my model!
I do like Future for under decals though.

Haven't got to the Pucara yet.  It's the 1/48 Kinetic kit.  Looks nice.  www.scalemates.com/kits/kinetic-k48078-ia-58-pucara--1124236

 I almost pulled the trigger on that one...but was already more into 1/72.



It was a rough go...typical "short run" stuff. Just a bit of extra work.

[keavdog]

Nice job! Didn't go for the Ling Cod camo eh...lol

[Tobi]

So far I have been using only their acrylics in limited amounts, but I bought also some of their lacquers. Mainly because my mind always tricks me to believe these would be the most sturdy paints for the base color, joining only the advantages of enamels and acrylics in one?
I guess you are perfectly aware of the difference between dry and cured, but what I found in my model building career is, that even color tones from the same manufacturer and same range can have different curing times. Maybe it's really just that.
On the other hand, a friend of mine reported the same issue of a combination of MrPaint and Tamiya TS spray can gloss. Something I would not have expected and still can't explain, since both are lacquer and he said he waited one week before applying the gloss.

[TJ]

I use Mr.Color and AK Real Color as my go to lacquers. But have thought about Hataka for certain colors.
Matt (TOWGunner) thanks for the info on the Leveling Thinner

[406 Silverado]

Testors Wet look clear is your friend Jeremy. It's labeled as a lacquer but it's actually an enamel clear. Just decant it and shoot it through an airbrush with the mist coats that you are talking about and then onto a wet coat for the gloss. Perfect results....every time.

I shoot all of my auto projects with this stuff and it lays down smooth as long as you remember to decant it and let it gas out for around 3-5 minutes in the paint jar to get all of the air bubbles out before shooting.

Here's my Vette after using Wet Look on it and BEFORE any wet sanding or polishing:

  

[fermis]

Appreciate y'all takes on it.
The conclusion I have come to on the issues I'm having, is...Rustoleom flat black(and white) enamel, is NOT the same stuff as MM enamel.
It takes it's time to dry enough to handle the pressures I put on it. I think that is more of the problem than the Hataka paints. (the peeling up issues have been down to the bare plastic)
I brush painted the wheels last night, and they were still just a little "gummy" this morning.
 I guess there's no use in cryin' over spilled milk (MM no longer a thing)....just gotta "crack the code" again.