john3m
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Post by john3m on Jun 1, 2024 19:45:14 GMT -5
I have problems with painting when it gets to the high detailed parts like cockpits and say car engines. I always prime parts of course I wash them and dry them first. After priming I consider which paint would work best. I prefer airbrushing but then I can’t airbrush the minute details. Where I get into trouble is painting the fine parts with a brush. I try to thin the paint acrylics and apply with a brush . The paint invariably builds up smothering the detail. When I thin the paint it does not coat the part properly requiring me to go over the part once more adding more paint. I’m thinking the primer may be too thick but I generally try to airbrush a thin layer of primer.
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Post by kyledehart5 on Jun 2, 2024 3:02:02 GMT -5
I use a few methods here. I am a hairy stick lover so my first choice is Super fine brushes. I also sometimes use sharpened toothpicks, or on raised details like scripting I will often paint the detail color under the bigger color. Then I take a find sanding stick and lightly sand until the detail color is revealed. Alternatively I do a dry dry brush. Many times repeatedly to ever so slowly build up the paint. SO dry that the paint only sticks to the most raised areas. I'm sure there are plenty of others that have better techniques too.
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handiabled
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Post by handiabled on Jun 2, 2024 3:20:30 GMT -5
It sounds like you should explore some different brush options if the ones you are using load the work up with too much material. Like Kyle said dry brushing can be a good technique as well. Using things like toothpicks or needles can work in some circumstances
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Post by Tobi on Jun 2, 2024 4:19:21 GMT -5
It may also depend on the type of acrylic paint you're using. Some are more brush friendly than others. A drying retarder is good for both thinning without making the paint too translucent and at the same time extending the work time. The acrylic should respond to water for thinning. Some require alcohol due to their formula instead (like Tamiya) and I find them harder to work. A brush too fine can also pose a problem. Instead of a 10/0 which dries up in an instant a 0 with a perfect shaped tip can work better in times.
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Post by 406 Silverado on Jun 2, 2024 8:54:22 GMT -5
What paints are you using John?
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john3m
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Post by john3m on Jun 2, 2024 16:52:44 GMT -5
I use several brands. I also paint fantasy miniatures. i use Tamiya paints a variety of oil based and in regards to others I use Army Painters paint some Citadel and Vallejo. I Dry brush the miniatures and use Tamiya paints for my scale models as well as the paints I use for the miniatures. I airbrush the larger areas using Vallejo primers on plastic kits. I have no problems other than painting the scale motors and other scale finer details. painting the miniatures there is no need for. Producing exacting features.
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mz3
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Post by mz3 on Jun 2, 2024 18:27:34 GMT -5
Tobi has the answer for Tamiya paints, use their retarder. It works great for brush painting.
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Post by 406 Silverado on Jun 2, 2024 18:36:04 GMT -5
MZ took the words right out of my mouth. That Tamiya retarder is your best bet.
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eaglecash867
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Post by eaglecash867 on Jun 2, 2024 19:10:28 GMT -5
I found on accident that Vallejo's Airbrush Flow Improver works well as a retarder for Tamiya paints as well. I tend to stay away from brush painting though as much as I can these days (except for tiny touch-ups and extremely small things like switches,buttons, and knobs), just because of that diminished detail that john3m is having issues with. Anything much bigger than a switch or button gets airbrushed.
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Post by Medicman71 on Jun 16, 2024 20:25:29 GMT -5
Try the new AK 3rd Gen Acrylics for brush painting. They're made for just that.
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