StuG IV Late Version Update...
Jun 3, 2024 19:27:50 GMT -5
406 Silverado, deafpanzer, and 5 more like this
Post by outerlimtz on Jun 3, 2024 19:27:50 GMT -5
Between this kit (Dragon Kit 6043) and the previous Panzer IV, I built a horrendous AMT nova. It's a shelf spacer.
This was given to me by Eric, along with the extra PE parts (Lion Roars LE35050 and LE35051). I think he's trying to test me and find my breaking point. I do need to buy a PE bending kit however.
The good thing, I think, is the StuG IV is built off the Panzer IV base.This became helpful when cutting one of the return wheels of the sprue and it disappeared into the modeling abyss. Thankfully I had another from the Panzer.
After about 2 hours, watching some of the race at Long Beach replay, I stopped here. The shoulders started to burn and my eyes were twitching. I also needed to charge the battery in the headlamp.
I noticed that a lot of the PE parts will require the removal of a lot of plastic of the base. Not happening this time around. One, I don't have all the proper tools. Secondly, I don't want to. I am going to use as much as possible, but I figured I could add a little extra here and there to try and make the details stand out a bit.
Definitely a lot more PE than the Panzer, so it will be a learning curve. After looking at the track pieces, they are about identical to the Panzer tracks. So I just maybe ordering some workable links from Squadron.
After some time, working with and losing some of the small PE pieces, I ended up with this. I have been happy so far.
I didn't realize it at this time however, the drive sprocket is on backwards, on both sides. The wheel carrier was a pain to a point, trying to glue the bends without getting it stuck to my fingers. Eventually, I will learn better mechanics.
After a week or two of off and on work and waiting for my paint to arrive, I got the panels complete and the rails they sit on. I also added a bit of damage to the front by removing part of the fender. I also added some damage and bends to the side plates.
I was able to prime and lay the base coat. I wanted to try more weathering so I ordered the AK Interactive Worn Effects. Just had to wait for it to be ordered. I had watched a few videos however, when I started to spray it, it came out like water. I lowered and raised the PSI, moved further away and closer to the kit, but regardless, it just laid on the base coat like oil on water.
More than a little frustrated, I used the airbrush to push the liquid around to thin it out and get it lay evenly. I was hoping it would dry clear and it did. Still need more research for this, was it end result is a lot more than my first kit.
Being a late model StuG, and the base was of the Panzer IV, plus the fact I couldn't find a lot of information on this, I decided to go the same route with the primer, followed with the oxide red as I did the Panzer. Then the base color of yellow brown, with the Worn Effects fluid between the oxide and yellow, sealed with Testors clear lacquer.
Once the yellow had dried, I started with the green and brown colors. Tried following a few patterns I found online as well as what was in the Dragons instructions. I was not happy with the end result. Unlike the Panzer, I didn't hand paint the tools prior to adding the camo pattern.
Deciding what to do, I kept rotating the the paint base, looking at different angles. First thing I started on was the weather and chipping. First time for everything. Having watched the previous videos and reading the AK instructions, I began using the stiff brush and water. After about 5 minutes, I was getting nowhere.
Starting to get a little frustrated, I looked at what was on the work table. Oil Paints! I grabbed one of the oil tubes and prayed to the model gods to not fail me. I started lightly chipping and scratching at the went paint. Took some water with the brush, brushed off the mess. Did a little more here and there. It started to look a lot better. One thing I found out was, don't attempt to scratch the PE plates. The gold color came through.
I still had the red oxide oil wash from the Panzer, so I shook it up and set it aside. I grabbed the other oils and started a small pin wash. Once complete, I began with the full body oil wash.
I was getting frustrated as no matter how gentle I tried handling the kit, a few of the rail teeth popped off. A few of the anchor points on the back of the plates popped off. Gluing them back on, I started on a bit more detailing.
Overall I am very pleased with this one. I learned a few techniques. Learned I have very little patience when it comes to PE. I will do a bit more detailing with a pencil. I am going to have to order the Panzer tracks that I used on the Panzer from Reyfield. The tracks in this kit are the same as the other Dragon, and they're doing the same thing. Falling apart like glass candy after the glue has dried. It was also at this time, I realized the drive shafts were on backwards so I proceeded to remove them, place them correctly, and respray the sides. I was also able to respray the PE where the gold color came through.
I am trying to get a look of actual used and abused armor. A lot I've seen look "painted" but they do look amazing. I like the grime and oil type look. I am currently looking for top mounted machine gun.As my new kitten has decided to try his paws at model building.
Post to my first armor build as comparison.
This was given to me by Eric, along with the extra PE parts (Lion Roars LE35050 and LE35051). I think he's trying to test me and find my breaking point. I do need to buy a PE bending kit however.
The good thing, I think, is the StuG IV is built off the Panzer IV base.This became helpful when cutting one of the return wheels of the sprue and it disappeared into the modeling abyss. Thankfully I had another from the Panzer.
After about 2 hours, watching some of the race at Long Beach replay, I stopped here. The shoulders started to burn and my eyes were twitching. I also needed to charge the battery in the headlamp.
I noticed that a lot of the PE parts will require the removal of a lot of plastic of the base. Not happening this time around. One, I don't have all the proper tools. Secondly, I don't want to. I am going to use as much as possible, but I figured I could add a little extra here and there to try and make the details stand out a bit.
Definitely a lot more PE than the Panzer, so it will be a learning curve. After looking at the track pieces, they are about identical to the Panzer tracks. So I just maybe ordering some workable links from Squadron.
After some time, working with and losing some of the small PE pieces, I ended up with this. I have been happy so far.
I didn't realize it at this time however, the drive sprocket is on backwards, on both sides. The wheel carrier was a pain to a point, trying to glue the bends without getting it stuck to my fingers. Eventually, I will learn better mechanics.
After a week or two of off and on work and waiting for my paint to arrive, I got the panels complete and the rails they sit on. I also added a bit of damage to the front by removing part of the fender. I also added some damage and bends to the side plates.
I was able to prime and lay the base coat. I wanted to try more weathering so I ordered the AK Interactive Worn Effects. Just had to wait for it to be ordered. I had watched a few videos however, when I started to spray it, it came out like water. I lowered and raised the PSI, moved further away and closer to the kit, but regardless, it just laid on the base coat like oil on water.
More than a little frustrated, I used the airbrush to push the liquid around to thin it out and get it lay evenly. I was hoping it would dry clear and it did. Still need more research for this, was it end result is a lot more than my first kit.
Being a late model StuG, and the base was of the Panzer IV, plus the fact I couldn't find a lot of information on this, I decided to go the same route with the primer, followed with the oxide red as I did the Panzer. Then the base color of yellow brown, with the Worn Effects fluid between the oxide and yellow, sealed with Testors clear lacquer.
Once the yellow had dried, I started with the green and brown colors. Tried following a few patterns I found online as well as what was in the Dragons instructions. I was not happy with the end result. Unlike the Panzer, I didn't hand paint the tools prior to adding the camo pattern.
Deciding what to do, I kept rotating the the paint base, looking at different angles. First thing I started on was the weather and chipping. First time for everything. Having watched the previous videos and reading the AK instructions, I began using the stiff brush and water. After about 5 minutes, I was getting nowhere.
Starting to get a little frustrated, I looked at what was on the work table. Oil Paints! I grabbed one of the oil tubes and prayed to the model gods to not fail me. I started lightly chipping and scratching at the went paint. Took some water with the brush, brushed off the mess. Did a little more here and there. It started to look a lot better. One thing I found out was, don't attempt to scratch the PE plates. The gold color came through.
I still had the red oxide oil wash from the Panzer, so I shook it up and set it aside. I grabbed the other oils and started a small pin wash. Once complete, I began with the full body oil wash.
I was getting frustrated as no matter how gentle I tried handling the kit, a few of the rail teeth popped off. A few of the anchor points on the back of the plates popped off. Gluing them back on, I started on a bit more detailing.
Overall I am very pleased with this one. I learned a few techniques. Learned I have very little patience when it comes to PE. I will do a bit more detailing with a pencil. I am going to have to order the Panzer tracks that I used on the Panzer from Reyfield. The tracks in this kit are the same as the other Dragon, and they're doing the same thing. Falling apart like glass candy after the glue has dried. It was also at this time, I realized the drive shafts were on backwards so I proceeded to remove them, place them correctly, and respray the sides. I was also able to respray the PE where the gold color came through.
I am trying to get a look of actual used and abused armor. A lot I've seen look "painted" but they do look amazing. I like the grime and oil type look. I am currently looking for top mounted machine gun.As my new kitten has decided to try his paws at model building.
Post to my first armor build as comparison.
