reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,372
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
|
Post by reserve on Jul 20, 2012 15:55:41 GMT -5
at something partially burned and rusty. This ICM US6 sat on the shelf for some time as I did not have any idea what to do with it until a short time ago. To me, it does not look right. Can't put my finger on why. Any thoughts, anyone? All feedback much appreciated.
|
|
reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,372
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
|
Post by reserve on Jul 20, 2012 23:17:36 GMT -5
Chris
By all means I do not mind you saying so, honest observations and opinions are like gold while learning different techniques. I'm not one to be offended by constructive critiques, it would be awful silly to ask for help and then get mad. Foollish I may be but not THAT foolish...
Boo
Yes, and thanks for the reference picture. I'd thought of trying to represent something that had been sitting around for awhile post main event, but it is too monochromatic and you're right, as well as Chris, that some color variation is needed past the two hues on it now.
Perhaps a bit more black soot, some different rust tones, some whitish ash, some black scorched ground in strategic spots...am I on the right track? Also, what does a guy use for burned tire ash? I'd thought of using cigarette ashes but fixing such an item could be problematic.
Mark
|
|
|
Post by TRM on Jul 22, 2012 14:37:33 GMT -5
Great start for the first time Mark!! The concept works!! Real ashes do work in a pinch. The whitish grey on cigarette ashes works well for the burnt rubber. A couple of mashed down charred coals from a burnt piece of wood works nicely too for smoke and burnt remnants on the ground ans well as various areas around the burnt zone.
First you can always learn a lot from just looking at picks of burnt out wrecks. Some metals with turn bright orange and others will turn a darker color. Mix and match as you go to give you points of interest. Mixing some pigment with some thinner and or some different paints, gives you a wide range of colors...airbrush them, stipple them with a brush, either way reference fire damaged pictures to see coloring....then work you way out to the painted truck. DOn't rush, build it up in layers. Do some, let it dry and evaluate...add some more here and there.
Another nice touch is taking a light tan....Deck tan or something like it, and band the burnt rusty area. As the fire burns, often it will whiten (tan) the area between the part that was burning and the areas that still have paint. Try thinning it to 50/50 or more. You can spray it lightly or sponge it almost in an uneven, random line around this area. Then blend the painted side with some of the smoke damage.
Certainly well on your way here. Take some practice, which actually is the fun part. Have at it!! Hope to see some pics of you playing around with it!
|
|
reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,372
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
|
Post by reserve on Jul 23, 2012 22:59:03 GMT -5
Thanks for all the super advice, all, and you can be sure I'll get to trying out all your splendid suggestions...once I have time. Life has intruded again, the surgical nurse method of making a living has turned into unholy wreck with the advance of US Government influence in health care.
Therefore, I just today began truck school, going to get my A class back and the operating room can go to hell in a handbasket without me. The next three to four weeks is not likely to be loaded with spare time, but when I get past this I'll sure be back at the bench and will gleefully record progress on this particular item. Thanks again, I'll be back.
Regards, Mark
|
|
reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,372
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
|
Post by reserve on Aug 1, 2012 17:18:58 GMT -5
OK, time to try again. Took youse guys suggestions and this is what I came up with by way of improvement Better, I think. Perhaps not enough. Any thoughts? Regards, Mark
|
|
multicam
Senior Member
Member since: January 2012
Nate
Posts: 2,039
Jan 10, 2012 14:35:41 GMT -5
Jan 10, 2012 14:35:41 GMT -5
|
Post by multicam on Aug 1, 2012 19:14:31 GMT -5
The springs in the seats look awesome! I didn't see that the first time round:)
|
|
|
Post by bbd468 on Aug 3, 2012 10:13:47 GMT -5
Looks pretty darn good to me. Nice job man! Gary
|
|
reserve
Senior Member
Member since: July 2012
Si vis pacem para bellum
Posts: 2,372
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
Jul 11, 2012 9:11:45 GMT -5
|
Post by reserve on Aug 3, 2012 21:56:25 GMT -5
Thank you all, gentlemen, for the kind comments and great advice. This is still not done, but the main elements are pretty much going to stay the way they are now. Will post final pictures at the risk of boring you all to death when it's done.
Regards, Mark
|
|
|
Post by 406 Silverado on Aug 4, 2012 9:12:02 GMT -5
Now it looks better....with more room to improve. Try to add some bright fresh rust to certain areas, not a lot just enough to add color and also show it's a fresh wreck. After a vehicle burns it does not take long for oxidation to kick in. Depending on location and weather a vehicle will turn almost bright orange once the oxidation kicks in. Check out my JT for an idea of how the fresh rust looks. modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rustbucket&action=display&thread=360For a first try it's looking very good.
|
|