Tamiya 1/20 Scale 1979 Williams FW07

[joelw]

Sept 4, 2024 15:20:34 GMT -5 maverick said:

Good grief man! God bless you both! Hope all works out well for your wife and you to get better! When it rains it pours... The model looks amazing so far! Im sure it will just get better as you go here too...Looking forward to the next installment! 1/12 scale is nice...But...You can not fudge small details or overlook stuff you could get away with on smaller scale builds. Its all big, and right there for all to see!

Maverick,

   Thanks so much for the support, it's greatly appreciated.  
  Every day I put in a few hours on the FW07, and it's slowly getting to the finish line. My next update will be way more interesting then this one. Well, at least I hope it is.
  
 Been kind of rethinking the move to 1/12 scale for several reasons of which you mentioned a few.  The bottom line is that it all depends on if and when they can stop the Retina disease from getting worse. There's no chance of curing it,  nor increasing my sight to a earlier stage.  But I'll settle for that for sure.

joel

[joelw]

  Finally even at my snail's pace of late, I've managed enough progress with several steps backwards, which is par for the course for me.  

  The engine/transaxle/rear suspension are done with the exception of the engine headers which are still in the paint shop.  Finally finished up the front suspension even though it's quite basic. I've glued the upper and lower chassis sections together, glued the front wing assembly to the bottom of the chassis and then to the chassis, and dry fitted the engine assembly making sure that there's no Gremlins lurking in the shadows to cause issues at glue up time.  

  Like said, not the greatest amount of work completed, but it is what it is these days.  

joel

[adrian29341]

Joel this looks fantastic - you always have great photos up close of your work.

That engine looks brilliant slotted in behind the cockpit and all the silver bits are popping nicely!

I hear you on the dry fits, I believe I need to do them more often and sometimes forget!

I can't wait to see this beauty completed

[joelw]

Adrian,
Thanks so much for your mega thumbs up, it's not only greatly appreciated but I sure need it as this build has been more then a handful at times.

joel

[handiabled]

Looks to be coming together terrific!

[kyledehart5]

That’s a really wonderful update Joel!! No need to hurry at all, you’ve got all the time you need so your pace is no issue. It looks like your care and attention to detail is really paying off. That chassis assembly and the engine nestled in there really look great. One step closer!

[406 Silverado]

Jeez.....and I thought I had commented on this beautiful progress last night. Sorry bud.....got busy watching the debate and didn't do it after all.

Some really good progress on this one Joel with a LOT of detailing going on. This is looking rather stellar so far buddy.

[joelw]

Sept 11, 2024 2:16:42 GMT -5 handiabled said:

Looks to be coming together terrific!

Handiabled,
  Thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my build to date, as it's always greatly appreciated.

joel

[joelw]

Sept 11, 2024 5:13:44 GMT -5 kyledehart5 said:

That’s a really wonderful update Joel!! No need to hurry at all, you’ve got all the time you need so your pace is no issue. It looks like your care and attention to detail is really paying off. That chassis assembly and the engine nestled in there really look great. One step closer!

Kyle,
  Thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my progress to date, as it's always much appreciated.

  I do have a nasty habit of pushing when I don't have to, and that causes all sorts of issues that further pushes back my progress.  

 The engine assembly is only dry fitted for these pictures, and should snuggle into position without to much fuss and effort, but when the glue is applied I can always find a way to make it way more difficult then it should be.

 One thing that I've been experimenting with is the use of Scripto fine point markers for detailing rather then air brushing or hand painting small parts. I've been amazed at the results especially their Silver and Black colors. I thought that they were Acrylic based, but Mineral Spirits seems to slowly remove them when cleaning up from applying Tamiya's panel line wash.  I'm thinking of buying a set of AK weathering markers to see just what effects I can produce.

joel

[joelw]

Sept 11, 2024 6:43:30 GMT -5 406 Silverado said:

Jeez.....and I thought I had commented on this beautiful progress last night. Sorry bud.....got busy watching the debate and didn't do it after all.

Some really good progress on this one Joel with a LOT of detailing going on. This is looking rather stellar so far buddy.

Joseph,
  No problem.  I'm sure that most of the country was watching the debate no matter which side one is on. I even watched the post show afterward.

  And thanks for your thumbs up as it always means a great deal to me.

joel

[maverick]

Any kind of progress is good progress! You seem to have progressed quite nicely with this one. Fit/finish and details are where the gremlins are. You seem to be keeping em at bay with this one! Every build I do is one step forward and two back...Your pace is your pace brother! I dont build fast either!!!
This is stunning soo far!!!

[project510]

Lookin good Joel! The metalic paint makes this kit look like it has very little plastic. Well done!

[chrissmith]

Joel, for someone who says he’s as blind as a bat. You’re sure nailing the details! Coming together nicely..

[joelw]

Thanks guys for all the support as it's always greatly appreciated. But there's bad news about the FW07 that's just overwhelmed me.

Issue #1 was that whatever type of plastic was used in the molding of the parts way back in the early 1980s just doesn't want to play very well with today's glues. I've tried and used Tamiya regular Extra Thin that didn't work at all, their quick drying Extra thin that does work a good deal of the time, Testors liquid glue which turned out to be the best option but not always, Testors gel type glue in the black dispenser, Revell Contacta (same as the Testors gel type and also worked pretty well, and CA at times. The issue is that under stress, even moderate stress parts did break off. Even the engine/rear suspension assembly which glue up nicely, snapped off when I pressed on both rear tires and then held it by the cockpit and bottom of the chassis to check it out. This is just insane. So I was going to go with CA glue and see if that would do the trick.

Issue #2.  When I started to test fit the side pod covers, and top shell cover, I notice that any area that was painted either White or Audi Air Green ( both Gravity of Spain colors, and both bottles were never opened previously) had fine what I call Fish Eyes every where. And I mean everywhere as I then checked the tops of the side pods which had it also.

I've been air brushing since the early 1970's, and no matter what type of primer, paint, clear gloss used and in any combination of lacquer, Acrylic lacquer, and small areas of Enamels, never had this issue before. I've had minor cracking due to rushing one coat on top of the next of a different paint exactly once, but never Fish Eyes.

Since the Fish Eyes are everywhere as I've said, this is my Straw that just broke the Camel's back. I've had it with this model for now. So back into one of my storage bins which are used as my Shelf of Doom, as I'm going to have to disassemble the model without breaking parts, strip even all of the Alcad off of the chassis, and start over. And I'm just not up to that now. As even starting over really doesn't solve my glue issue.

I'm going to assume that the AK Super Gloss I used which is Alcohol based reacted with the Gravity lacquer paint.

Joel

[keavdog]

Ah... so frustrating. I know exactly how you feel. Onward.

[maverick]

Been there a time or two myself Joel! Lousy rotten luck. Those euro lacquers though? Gravity/Zero and the like seem to not play well. Even within their own brands! I see and hear alot of people having bad results. Some can be chalked up to lack of experience or improper prep/application or base (Primer) but the issues always seem to be with Gravity or Zero...Sorry to hear you got the paint gremlins on parade with your build. I was looking forward to the next installment... Ah, park it, forget it...Take a break...Then start the one you have been really itching to get too! This one will be waiting when the urge for some self flagellation comes calling.
I have an Aoshima Pagani Pacchetta Tempesto that I started a long way back. It went back in the box after a particularly difficult personally concocted, 3 stage paint job that took days to complete...it came out nice but...All the test fitting and pre assembly mock up, as well as the veritable hand of God! Couldn't over come the lousy parts fit on the MULTIPLE body panels... I had some serious time and coin in that beast! Now it just laughs at me whenever I go into my stash for a new project to work on... Its on the languishing projects shelf...

[kyledehart5]

Indeed. I am very sorry to hear this as I think it was really coming along nicely. We have all been here though. Get into something else and have some fun with it! Sometimes stepping away is our only option.

[chrissmith]

Sorry to hear about this Joel ☹️
My thoughts are maybe try a 5min epoxy for your glue issue, it is a little elastic and holds up well. I’m sure once you get back at it you’ll have a great model when it’s finished 😉

[joelw]

Sept 20, 2024 15:54:09 GMT -5 maverick said:

Been there a time or two myself Joel! Lousy rotten luck. Those euro lacquers though? Gravity/Zero and the like seem to not play well. Even within their own brands! I see and hear alot of people having bad results. Some can be chalked up to lack of experience or improper prep/application or base (Primer) but the issues always seem to be with Gravity or Zero...Sorry to hear you got the paint gremlins on parade with your build. I was looking forward to the next installment... Ah, park it, forget it...Take a break...Then start the one you have been really itching to get too! This one will be waiting when the urge for some self flagellation comes calling.
I have an Aoshima Pagani Pacchetta Tempesto that I started a long way back. It went back in the box after a particularly difficult personally concocted, 3 stage paint job that took days to complete...it came out nice but...All the test fitting and pre assembly mock up, as well as the veritable hand of God! Couldn't over come the lousy parts fit on the MULTIPLE body panels... I had some serious time and coin in that beast! Now it just laughs at me whenever I go into my stash for a new project to work on... Its on the languishing projects shelf...

maverick,
  Thanks so much for your support as it's greatly appreciated.  

  As for the paint issues with Fish Eyes, it's not the Gravity lacquer paints that caused those problems, rather it seems that the AK Alcohol based 1K clear is the gremlin.  I've painted more then 24 car models, almost all with Gravity paints, and never had this issue.  Primers have always been either Tamiya or Mr. Color lacquer primers thinned with Mr. Leveler 400, and the gloss for the most part has been Tamiya's Acrylic lacquer , Lacquer (LP9), or Mr. Color lacquer,  and as I've said never any issues other then my learning process from time to time.  

  The AK Super Gloss comes pre-thinned and you can smell the Alcohol when you open the bottle.  The Gloss as I reported went on and self leveled better then anything I've used to date.  The problem slowly appeared over a weeks time, but I didn't even notice it until I started to dry fit the various exterior panels.  What was strange was that the Fish Eyes in the gloss still has a smooth top finish, so it sure seems that it's some kind of slow reaction of the clear gloss with the lacquer based paint.  

 Since I don't use AK paints, and have way to many bottles of Gravity paint, it will be some time or a needed color before I try their Super Color line. For the present time I'll just go back to my all lacquer routine.  Maybe I'll even get over my concerns about 2K and give them a try.

joel

[joelw]

Kyle & Chris,
Thanks so much guys for your support as i regroup and move on to another build. But this time I'll think I'll go back to closed wheels for the next build.

joel

[maverick]

Stay away from 2K clears... You need a fresh air supply type respirator to safely use em...The Isocyanates they produce are bad gree gree and are not filtered out by the common filter type respirators...

[joelw]

Sept 21, 2024 21:31:33 GMT -5 maverick said:

Stay away from 2K clears... You need a fresh air supply type respirator to safely use em...The Isocyanates they produce are bad gree gree and are not filtered out by the common filter type respirators...

Maverick,
  Thanks for the heads up as most of the Vids about shooting 2K just say to wear a paint respirator, which I always do, as I've got more then enough medical issues to worry about without adding to my list.

joel

[maverick]

Not a problem Joel... Remember anything that requires a Catalyst/activator/hardener will produce isocyanates That goes for primers as well as color coats.

[arcticwolf]

Sept 22, 2024 11:27:03 GMT -5 maverick said:

Not a problem Joel... Remember anything that requires a Catalyst/activator/hardener will produce isocyanates That goes for primers as well as color coats.

Good advice. That's why I gave up painting 1:1 cars, I had two painter friends who died from brain tumours. 

[joelw]

Oct 2, 2024 11:38:28 GMT -5 arcticwolf said:

Sept 22, 2024 11:27:03 GMT -5 maverick said:

Not a problem Joel... Remember anything that requires a Catalyst/activator/hardener will produce isocyanates That goes for primers as well as color coats.

Good advice. That's why I gave up painting 1:1 cars, I had two painter friends who died from brain tumours. 

Egads Paul . I rather go with less of a shine, and not risk more health problems as my health insurance says I've already got more then my fair share of issues.  

joel

[keavdog]

I do all painting in a ventilated spray booth but I should really use my respirator as well. Big fan of Tamiya rattle cans.

[joelw]

Oct 2, 2024 15:33:45 GMT -5 keavdog said:

I do all painting in a ventilated spray booth but I should really use my respirator as well. Big fan of Tamiya rattle cans.

John,
  I also air brush in a ventilated spray booth and always wear my respirator and glove on the parts holding hand. Rattle cans for me are done in the garage with the big door open. Even in the winter as long as it's in the 30 f range I can use my heater for a quick rattle can session.  I even will give the can a quick soak in hot water then dash to the garage shoot, and repeat.

joel