Let's talk air brushes

[aaronw]

I've had an air brush for years, a Paasche VL, siphon feed, double action. It came in a set with a couple different needles and tips, a cup, couple of jars etc. I bought it probably 2004-ish so I have had it about 20 years, and I'm probably overstating its use if I say I've used it 20 times. From what I understand it is a decent middle of the road airbrush, so can't fault it except that I probably should have bought a gravity feed. I have also recently found I was making a big mistake in operation, but I'll get to that in a minute. Second mistake was until recently I had a gawdawful loud Craftsman 2 gallon compressor, so using the airbrush scared dogs 6 blocks away.


Anyway my early New Years resolution for 2025 is to get serious about using an air brush. I have a bunch of Italian aircraft, and an airbrush is essential for many of their camo schemes. The only air force in WW2 that looked at what the the Luftwaffe was doing for camo and said "Hold my Campari".


I want to hit the ground running for 2025, so I've been watching a lot of videos. The big mistake I have discovered, was the trigger. I've been pulling back to release paint and then triggering the air, instead of starting the airflow and then starting the paint. That alone seems to account for many of my issues. Air pressure has also been way to high, my technique (beyond the air then paint thing) yada yada yada, the list of misfires goes on.


So I'm starting fresh, last year I bought a quiet 2 gallon compressor, to replace the tooth rattler. Not silent, but I can easily carry on a conversation next to it while it runs (my phone app sound meter says its peak noise level is 58dB). I want to start things right so I'm looking at air brushes. Yes, the VL is perfectly adequate, but I can do better and I want to kill all impediments, plus buying a new airbrush adds more incentive not to give up because then I will have 2 air brushes mocking me. The VL has 3 needle / tip sizes and with the jars I figure it still makes a nice large area brush, for priming, base colors etc.


I've got a few questions for those of you that do airbrush regularly. I've got a short list of air brushes I'm considering but have a few questions that may help me narrow things down. I'm looking at several in the $100-130 range, traditional brands.


How important is the ability to change tip / needle size?

Kind of goes hand in hand with the first. Do you prefer one work horse air brush that you reconfigure for different tasks, or do you have a couple of air brushes, each optimized for a certain type of painting?

Is the ability to change cup size trivial, useful but non-critical, or very worthwhile?   

Conventional top trigger or should I be giving the "gun" style some attention?



Anything else you would suggest, features / considerations to look for in an airbrush, tips, general encouragement etc throw it out there.

  

[BattleScale Collectica Show]

Aug 26, 2024 10:45:44 GMT -5 aaronw said:

I've had an air brush for years, a Paasche VL, siphon feed, double action. It came in a set with a couple different needles and tips, a cup, couple of jars etc. I bought it probably 2004-ish so I have had it about 20 years, and I'm probably overstating its use if I say I've used it 20 times. From what I understand it is a decent middle of the road airbrush, so can't fault it except that I probably should have bought a gravity feed. I have also recently found I was making a big mistake in operation, but I'll get to that in a minute. Second mistake was until recently I had a gawdawful loud Craftsman 2 gallon compressor, so using the airbrush scared dogs 6 blocks away.


Anyway my early New Years resolution for 2025 is to get serious about using an air brush. I have a bunch of Italian aircraft, and an airbrush is essential for many of their camo schemes. The only air force in WW2 that looked at what the the Luftwaffe was doing for camo and said "Hold my Campari".


I want to hit the ground running for 2025, so I've been watching a lot of videos. The big mistake I have discovered, was the trigger. I've been pulling back to release paint and then triggering the air, instead of starting the airflow and then starting the paint. That alone seems to account for many of my issues. Air pressure has also been way to high, my technique (beyond the air then paint thing) yada yada yada, the list of misfires goes on.



How important is the ability to change tip / needle size?
 
In my opinion very important. Thankfully pretty much every AB has this option. 

Kind of goes hand in hand with the first. Do you prefer one work horse air brush that you reconfigure for different tasks, or do you have a couple of air brushes, each optimized for a certain type of painting?

I use 1 primarily for primer and nothing else. 

Is the ability to change cup size trivial, useful but non-critical, or very worthwhile?   

I love this option here. Deal killer no - especially if your just doing small figures etc.


Conventional top trigger or should I be giving the "gun" style some attention?

I just now recently purchased a gun style trigger for some larger models I'll be working on. I've never used this style before. I guess it all depends on the type of build your painting. 



  

[spook]

Take a look at the new HS Ultra . It's a game changer .

[aaronw]

Aug 26, 2024 10:56:58 GMT -5 BattleScale Collectica Show said:

Aug 26, 2024 10:45:44 GMT -5 aaronw said:

How important is the ability to change tip / needle size?
 
In my opinion very important. Thankfully pretty much every AB has this option. 

So to elaborate, I meant one having a variety of sizes, not a fixed, non-serviceable tip. Basically would an airbrush that can take 3, 4, 5 different sizes of needle / nozzle rate higher with you than one that just offers one or maybe 2?

Certainly from a budgetary perspective a "3 in 1" airbrush is desirable, but from a practical point of view would you really take advantage of that by changing it between fine detail, detail and volume, or would you just buy a second (or third) air brush specific to that task?


Since you have a primer specific AB I'm guessing the second.   

[aaronw]

Aug 26, 2024 12:26:35 GMT -5 spook said:

Take a look at the new HS Ultra . It's a game changer .

If that is the Harder and Steenbeck Ultra 2024, it is leading on my list. $119, made in Germany, beginner oriented features, it looks like a really solid choice and not much more expensive than a Paasche Talon or Badger 105 which are a couple of the others I'm considering. Paasche and Badger have excellent availability, but the internet has done a lot to reduce that advantage.  

[BattleScale Collectica Show]

Swapping out most needles and tips is pretty painless. You just have to be careful not to bend the needle. 

I use 1 dedicated cheapie AB for primer just because I don't need to go for super fine detail when primering parts. I don't really need to have a dedicated AB for this, but prefer to keep different paints or colors shooting through my better brushes. Maybe I'm just quirky that way.

[spook]

Aug 26, 2024 13:22:07 GMT -5 aaronw said:

Aug 26, 2024 12:26:35 GMT -5 spook said:

Take a look at the new HS Ultra . It's a game changer .

If that is the Harder and Steenbeck Ultra 2024, it is leading on my list. $119, made in Germany, beginner oriented features, it looks like a really solid choice and not much more expensive than a Paasche Talon or Badger 105 which are a couple of the others I'm considering. Paasche and Badger have excellent availability, but the internet has done a lot to reduce that advantage.  

Yes Sir it is  .
Spray Gunner has them for 110.00 & Free Shipping .

[project510]

First, my responses are based off my situation, and my use for the airbrush when modeling. So that will have to be taken into consideration.
I use my airbrush for 90% 1/20-1/24 scale automobile kits. The other 10% is other means of transportation like rockets, a train and some future tanks and planes of varying scales. I use it for nothing else. So far. Also, If you feel like it I would read through my past psot about my airbrush journey haha. It will be explain where I with it so my answers make sense. You can find that thread here

Current Airbrush

Paasche Model H
Iwata Revolution CR
Ghaaleri GHAD-68

How important is the ability to change tip / needle size?

As of right now, this is not important at all. I'm not sure if its because I am not doing anything skillful enough for it to be necessary, or if its lack of experience, or all of that. My lineup of airbrushes allows me to use the Model H/Ghaaleri for primer and base colors. The Iwata for fine details. Prior to having the H and Ghaaleri, I used the Iwata for everything without switching needs or anything and it was fine.

Kind of goes hand in hand with the first. Do you prefer one work horse air brush that you reconfigure for different tasks, or do you have a couple of air brushes, each optimized for a certain type of painting?

With my limited experience, if I had no airbrush at all and was on a budget honestly I would buy the Model H and call it a day. Cheap, effective, easy to clean, parts are available but its a tank. If my skills advanced, and required me to upgrade then I would. Since I am in the position I am in and have the three, I use the Model H & Ghaaleri to do primer and base coats. I have been switching back and forth to see what I like better but I cant decide. The Ghaaleri is more comfortable, but cumbersome for some angles. The model H is probably my choice if I had to choose now. The Iwata is used for fine details, or if I need to do a touch up and need the like 1 mm fine line type of detail.

Is the ability to change cup size trivial, useful but non-critical, or very worthwhile?

Both the Model H and the Ghaaleri I have has this option available. I have never once needed to take advantage of this.

Conventional top trigger or should I be giving the "gun" style some attention?

Answered this above. The pistol grip is more comfortable for extended painting times. I don't do it enough to be a factor. So for me its not necessary

[aaronw]

Aug 26, 2024 14:27:38 GMT -5 project510 said:

First, my responses are based off my situation, and my use for the airbrush when modeling. So that will have to be taken into consideration.
I use my airbrush for 90% 1/20-1/24 scale automobile kits. The other 10% is other means of transportation like rockets, a train and some future tanks and planes of varying scales. I use it for nothing else. So far. Also, If you feel like it I would read through my past psot about my airbrush journey haha. It will be explain where I with it so my answers make sense. You can find that thread here

Current Airbrush

Paasche Model H
Iwata Revolution CR
Ghaaleri GHAD-68

How important is the ability to change tip / needle size?

As of right now, this is not important at all. I'm not sure if its because I am not doing anything skillful enough for it to be necessary, or if its lack of experience, or all of that. My lineup of airbrushes allows me to use the Model H/Ghaaleri for primer and base colors. The Iwata for fine details. Prior to having the H and Ghaaleri, I used the Iwata for everything without switching needs or anything and it was fine.

Kind of goes hand in hand with the first. Do you prefer one work horse air brush that you reconfigure for different tasks, or do you have a couple of air brushes, each optimized for a certain type of painting?

With my limited experience, if I had no airbrush at all and was on a budget honestly I would buy the Model H and call it a day. Cheap, effective, easy to clean, parts are available but its a tank. If my skills advanced, and required me to upgrade then I would. Since I am in the position I am in and have the three, I use the Model H & Ghaaleri to do primer and base coats. I have been switching back and forth to see what I like better but I cant decide. The Ghaaleri is more comfortable, but cumbersome for some angles. The model H is probably my choice if I had to choose now. The Iwata is used for fine details, or if I need to do a touch up and need the like 1 mm fine line type of detail.

Is the ability to change cup size trivial, useful but non-critical, or very worthwhile?

Both the Model H and the Ghaaleri I have has this option available. I have never once needed to take advantage of this.

Conventional top trigger or should I be giving the "gun" style some attention?

Answered this above. The pistol grip is more comfortable for extended painting times. I don't do it enough to be a factor. So for me its not necessary

Just finished reading through that other thread.

There is so much more on the internet these days than when I bought my Paasche. Back then the Aztek was the hot cheap airbrush. Not seeing those mentioned much anymore but there are a lot more options in the decent budget air brush market, many under $50. I've seen a lot of positive comments on the Ghaaleri brand, even the $25 Harbor Freight Avanti airbrush gets some modestly positive attention.


  

[aaronw]

Aug 26, 2024 13:49:02 GMT -5 spook said:

Aug 26, 2024 13:22:07 GMT -5 aaronw said:

If that is the Harder and Steenbeck Ultra 2024, it is leading on my list. $119, made in Germany, beginner oriented features, it looks like a really solid choice and not much more expensive than a Paasche Talon or Badger 105 which are a couple of the others I'm considering. Paasche and Badger have excellent availability, but the internet has done a lot to reduce that advantage.  

Yes Sir it is  .
Spray Gunner has them for 110.00 & Free Shipping .

Yeah, I really like everything I am seeing with the Ultra. It is solidly in the mid tier for price, seems to be specifically targeting modelers, figure painters and beginners with the features. My main concern is the nozzle / tip, it comes with a 0.45mm and there do not seem to be many optional sizes or other accessories available. I am assuming that is just because it is a very new air brush and more options will come along. The worst comment I've seen of it is the cup is too close to the trigger for one reviewer.

[BattleScale Collectica Show]

www.amazon.com/Gaahleri-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Cost-Effective-Painting/dp/B0BN7QSQ76?tag=vs-proboards-20

may want to take a look at Gaahleri. I've only shot some clear through it but it gave a good impression. I'll be using it to prime some upcoming builds.
For $45 it offers a lot and is recommended by more than couple folks here on the forum. 

[keavdog]

Not sure if this helps but Spraygunner will be having a sale


SprayGunner
HUGE NEWS

PARTS FOR 2024 MODELS OF HARDER & STEENBECK AIRBRUSHES ARE NOW IN STOCK!!!


Click HERE for Ultra 2024 parts.

Click HERE for Evolution 2024 parts.

All Harder & Steenbeck airbrush models now have new needles, nozzles, and air caps, as well as full sets. All parts come with new part numbers so please check new diagrams after selecting your airbrush model in our parts catalog.

Also, parts for Kyiv Infinity and Giraldez Infinity CR Plus now available for pre-order. To learn more, checkout our blog post here.


Small but important, new part across all models, which is also recommended as an airbrush tuning part for all models, is a needle clamp nut 712343. New version has a new feature - it guides the needle to the right path when you put it back after disassembly, helping to avoid bent needle tips caused by installation errors.

Buy now
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Enjoy 15% off great brands like Air Shot Stencils, Blair Stencils, Fiebing's, Metal Time Models, Model Factory Hiro, Createx, Custom Creative, and Ammo!

USE CODE: LBRWK24 AT CHECKOUT!

Sale runs until 11:59pm EST on Sept. 1st

Super Deal on Super Compressor!

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Designed with POWER in mind, this compressor delivers incredible airflow and is ideal for use with mini paint spray guns such as our NO-NAME Minigun. This compressor can be used as air supply for up to 3 regular airbrushes (such as iwata HP-CS) working simultaneously!

[kyledehart5]

I have tried various “cheap” entry level airbrushes from various companies and if you’re going budget minded then Gaahleri is it as far as I’m concerned. Due to my experience in painting the pistol grip is where it’s at for me and their model 68 is my workhorse. I use it nearly every session. I also have a “mid tier” top trigger Mr hobby Procon boy ps-289. It remains a steadfast and wonderful tool. It is a 0.3 and comes only with the one needle set. Cup is permanent. This has never been an issue. Cleanup is a breeze and atomization is top notch but you can also dial it waaay down. I use it for chrome or itty bitty stuff but it’ll paint a car body just fine if you bump the pressure up to 20ish and let it fly. Now having said that, I can’t imagine there’s a better deal right now than the HS Ultra. I’ve strongly been considering grabbing one as a dedicated clearcoat brush.

[super_average_gunpla]

Lost of good suggestions in this thread. I'll second Mr. Hobby airbrushes. The fit-and-finish to price ratio is some of the best I've seen. I have three Mr. Hobby brushes in my stable: the 0.3 trigger, 0.5, trigger, and 0.18. In my experience (YMMV) any 0.3 brush will cover 90 - 95% of use cases. With proper technique, thinning, and air pressure very fine lines are easily produced. The initial pull on a trigger brush is all air and you can feel the tension on the trigger right before the paint starts flowing with full trigger squeeze producing maximum flow. It's a great design. For maximum comfort I use use the Procon Boy Handgrip with Mr. Hobby trigger brushes. . Unfortunately, it's an added expense and not included with the base brush. Grex sells their trigger style brushes (Tritium line) with a handgrip included and all parts are interchangeable so you can buy one brush and 4 different needle sizes from 0.2 - 0.7. Plus they offer fan caps which give you a mini spray gun. I don't see Grex getting a lot of love in the hobby, but I have two and definitely recommend them.

One thing to also consider when going with larger flow needles (say 0.5 & 0.7) is your air source and fume extraction. These larger needles can move a lot of volume in short period time and you'll want an air source and booth that can keep up.

[eaglecash867]

Do you prefer one work horse air brush that you reconfigure for different tasks, or do you have a couple of air brushes, each optimized for a certain type of painting?

I have two airbrushes, a Paasche H and an Iwata HP-CS.  The Paasche H is my work horse, and I think I have used the Iwata twice.  I have primarily been using the #1 needle and cap (the smallest) on the H for pretty much everything I have been doing, from fine detail painting, to nice, shiny, wet-look car paintjobs that didn't require buffing afterward.  Depending on the current job I plan on using it for, I just use a pack of PostIt notes to do test shots on and get my pattern/line width dialed in before going to the model.  Haven't needed any other airbrush so far.  My Iwata, for me, was just a PITA to use and care for...and couldn't do anything I couldn't accomplish quite easily with the Paasche H.

[aaronw]

Unfortunately the Spray gunner sale doesn't extend to airbrushes, that would have put their the HS Ultra under $90. 

I didn't even consider Labor Day coming up, there may be other sales as well.

Seeing a lot of like for Ghaaleri, at those prices I could go with a both conventional DA and a pistol grip without going much over $100, hmmm.

I think I'm good for airflow and extraction. I have a paint booth that works well with rattle cans, I can't imagine any airbrush for a model putting out more paint than that. The little compressor upstairs is 1hp with a 2 gallon tank, it claims 60lpm @ 90 psi with a max pressure of 135psi. From what I'm seeing it is recommended to get a compressor capable of a minimum of 20lpm with a max pressure of at least 40psi so I should have plenty there. 

[garybrantley]

I have used a Paasche H since 1988 and have painted every model with it.   Designed in the 1930s, it is a true workhorse!  But recently, I did buy a Gaahleri GHAD-68, and I really love using it!   I have nerve damage in both hands and the pistol grip on the GHAD 68 is a lot easier for me to use.   I also have a SOTAR and a cheap double-action AB from Harbor Freight, but they rarely get used. 

[keavdog]

Ya - big Paasche H fan. I do have a couple double action brushes for mottling - still learning.
As an aside - swapped out my CO2 tank today for < $20. I think that one went over two years - although I was limited for about a year during my move.

[aaronw]

I was really waffling over the different options but I went for the HS Ultra from Spray Gunner. I really tried to find a reason not too, but I watched review after review and I just couldn't find anybody who didn't like it. Most things you can usually find that one guy who hates it, but if he is out there I couldn't find him.

H&S has a pretty nice youtube channel too with a lot of how to airbrush, care & feeding of your airbrush etc content. More in depth than just the usual marketing stuff, I like that.


Thanks for the help, and I'll be sure to post some work once I get it and have a chance to try it out.

[TJ]

I used to work for a company that did alot of custom automotive airbrush work. I had the chance to use some really high end airbrushes. Iwata mostly. Beautiful tools. But for what we do, even German mottling, is something that most double action airbrushes can handle. I currently have 3. My Iwata NEO is down. I think it needs some seals. I have a cheap Master that I bought off Amazon which is my do anything airbrush. I recently bought a Gaahleri top trigger which I like alot.  

The biggest thing for airbrushes is cleanup. Some will work with a good flushing others require complete tear down after every session.  I still use automotive gun cleaner for my final spray through before I put it away. Seems to thoroughly clean the reservoir without a complete tear down.

You will always be able to do better detail work with a gravity feed over a siphon feed simply because they require less air to work. I've gone down to 8psi when doing very tight lines.  Normally around 15psi.

Hope this helps

[aaronw]

Sept 1, 2024 4:59:14 GMT -5 TJ said:

I used to work for a company that did alot of custom automotive airbrush work. I had the chance to use some really high end airbrushes. Iwata mostly. Beautiful tools. But for what we do, even German mottling, is something that most double action airbrushes can handle. I currently have 3. My Iwata NEO is down. I think it needs some seals. I have a cheap Master that I bought off Amazon which is my do anything airbrush. I recently bought a Gaahleri top trigger which I like alot.  

The biggest thing for airbrushes is cleanup. Some will work with a good flushing others require complete tear down after every session.  I still use automotive gun cleaner for my final spray through before I put it away. Seems to thoroughly clean the reservoir without a complete tear down.

You will always be able to do better detail work with a gravity feed over a siphon feed simply because they require less air to work. I've gone down to 8psi when doing very tight lines.  Normally around 15psi.

Hope this helps

I actually expected more Iwata recommendations as the NEO seemed to be the popular good beginners airbrush recommendation the last time I considered giving the airbrush a go (8-10 years ago). It is interesting to see how things change. Obviously improvements in production have allowed for much better inexpensive airbrushes. 

Youtube is also helping a lot. I am seeing so many tips and tricks videos that are helping me identify my numerous bad habits. I was running the trigger wrong, using way too much pressure (often 30psi+). Basically I had no clue what I was doing and have never had anybody who could show me. Being able to actually watch people paint who are explaining what they are doing, rather than having to explain in text and photos is a huge help. 

The bad part is I'm off again for another 17-18 days of work so I won't have a chance to try any of this out until the end of the month. 

[charleygnarlyp290]

I'm going to try and reply in consideration of your comments.
I have five airbrushes and use three consistently. I have a Paasche H which is my oldest brush (and oddly enough the subject of my most popular YouTube video!) but I haven't used it for years. I have a Mr Hobby Procon Boy PS-290 that I use for bigger jobs... like priming 1/48 four engine bombers. I have a weird Sparmax single action with removable glass bottles that I use for clearcoats.
But, the ones I use the most are my Iwata HP-M2 single action and my Neo for Iwata TRN-1 pistol grip type double action.
The HP-M2 is the one I use mostly for primers and now that I have switched back to Vallejo Model Air paints, single color paint jobs... think OD on a Sherman. The TRN-1 I use for more detailed stuff like aircraft mottling or camo schemes. The pistol grip and trigger (like a gun) along with an inline valve give me great control for doing that kind of work.
The TRN-1 comes with two color cups, but I just leave the larger one on it. No need to switch and it saves wear and tear on the cup to brush o-rings.
Since I use two airbrushes, there is no need to switch out tips and needles. Two airbrushes for specific tasks works for me. I tried switching out the needle and tips for the TRN-1 in a quest to reduce the amount of tools I have, but it doesn't change out as quickly as the HS mentioned in a previous answer above. In fact I am really considering getting one to try out. Quick size changes would be nice. But, I am concerned about dexterity issues. I may not have need for concern but For me right now, the pistol trigger is the way to go over the conventional top trigger type.
The biggest pointer I can give is get the best you can afford. If it's a choice between a cheap AB right now or waiting another month to afford a better one, wait. Some people swear by the cheapos but quality control can be dodgy at best and a person could get stuck with a never ending headache.
Hopefully all that blab helps. Keep us posted on how things turn out.

[aaronw]

Some of the Ghaahleri airbrushes are on a pretty big discount right now, 30-40% off at Amazon for Amazon Prime Days, the GHAD-39 down from $50 to $30 and the GHAD-68 from $80 down to $50.

At that price I figured it was worth picking up the GHAD-68 so I can see how I like the trigger style, if nothing else it seems like that might be nice for priming larger things. I thought I'd share the sale since others mentioned they were considering one or the other of these.

[garybrantley]

Oct 9, 2024 13:50:58 GMT -5 aaronw said:

Some of the Ghaahleri airbrushes are on a pretty big discount right now, 30-40% off at Amazon for Amazon Prime Days, the GHAD-39 down from $50 to $30 and the GHAD-68 from $80 down to $50.

At that price I figured it was worth picking up the GHAD-68 so I can see how I like the trigger style, if nothing else it seems like that might be nice for priming larger things. I thought I'd share the sale since others mentioned they were considering one or the other of these.

That is a good price, Aaron.   I used my GHAD-68 to spray clear flat acrylic on my last paint job and it resulted in an almost glossy finish.   Which was odd since it was my old standby clear flat, Model Master.   I had never had that phenomenon happen before, so I did some research.   I found some info online that claimed a smaller sized needle will render flat finishes shinier.   I didn't know about that, so I switched back to my Paasche H and tried it again, and what do you know, it was noticeably flatter.   I still have the needle in the GHAD that it came with, and I think that's a .3mm needle and the other .5mm might do better job.   I'm still unsure if that claim about needle size holds up but it may be something to consider?  

[eighty3studios]

Aug 26, 2024 10:45:44 GMT -5 aaronw said:

I've had an air brush for years, a Paasche VL, siphon feed, double action. It came in a set with a couple different needles and tips, a cup, couple of jars etc. I bought it probably 2004-ish so I have had it about 20 years, and I'm probably overstating its use if I say I've used it 20 times. From what I understand it is a decent middle of the road airbrush, so can't fault it except that I probably should have bought a gravity feed. I have also recently found I was making a big mistake in operation, but I'll get to that in a minute. Second mistake was until recently I had a gawdawful loud Craftsman 2 gallon compressor, so using the airbrush scared dogs 6 blocks away.


Anyway my early New Years resolution for 2025 is to get serious about using an air brush. I have a bunch of Italian aircraft, and an airbrush is essential for many of their camo schemes. The only air force in WW2 that looked at what the the Luftwaffe was doing for camo and said "Hold my Campari".


I want to hit the ground running for 2025, so I've been watching a lot of videos. The big mistake I have discovered, was the trigger. I've been pulling back to release paint and then triggering the air, instead of starting the airflow and then starting the paint. That alone seems to account for many of my issues. Air pressure has also been way to high, my technique (beyond the air then paint thing) yada yada yada, the list of misfires goes on.


So I'm starting fresh, last year I bought a quiet 2 gallon compressor, to replace the tooth rattler. Not silent, but I can easily carry on a conversation next to it while it runs (my phone app sound meter says its peak noise level is 58dB). I want to start things right so I'm looking at air brushes. Yes, the VL is perfectly adequate, but I can do better and I want to kill all impediments, plus buying a new airbrush adds more incentive not to give up because then I will have 2 air brushes mocking me. The VL has 3 needle / tip sizes and with the jars I figure it still makes a nice large area brush, for priming, base colors etc.


I've got a few questions for those of you that do airbrush regularly. I've got a short list of air brushes I'm considering but have a few questions that may help me narrow things down. I'm looking at several in the $100-130 range, traditional brands.


How important is the ability to change tip / needle size?

Kind of goes hand in hand with the first. Do you prefer one work horse air brush that you reconfigure for different tasks, or do you have a couple of air brushes, each optimized for a certain type of painting?

Is the ability to change cup size trivial, useful but non-critical, or very worthwhile?   

Conventional top trigger or should I be giving the "gun" style some attention?



Anything else you would suggest, features / considerations to look for in an airbrush, tips, general encouragement etc throw it out there.

  

get an iwata eclipse or badger patriot 105.  iwata is a bit nicer in build quality but the badger feels better with the trigger to me.

they would do everything you wanna do there.
removable cups are not very useful imo, a traditional style airbrush is easier to use for spraying details/ camo etc,
a needle/nozzle around .4 will do everything you need, always good to keep a few spares around nozzles wear out ( both of these have the big drop in nozzles) 
all airbrushes are easy to clean so i don’t see why everyone says one is easier to clean than another? lol

I would also recommend buying the grex mac valve so you can dial in your pressure while you’re spraying