McLaren MP4-4 by Meng

[joelw]

Paul,
The engine/rear suspension assembly looks excellent, and certainly has the look and feel of the real car during the era of lets make everything possible Black. I'm sure that in person it has a more detailed looked then when we view it in a 2 dimensional photograph.

So many of the more modern GT cars are mostly Black suspensions and Black interiors, so I know exactly how you feel about it.

And that's a great idea about dipping screws into CA glue rather then seeing just what the snap torque is when screwing into plastic.

Joel

[brandonk]

Being a Meng kit I would expect this to be quite nice and well detailed. Your work thus far is impressive. Bookmarked this one.

[arcticwolf]

Step 2 complete. 57 parts and 18 decals. The only complaint is a minor flaw in Meng's engineering. The area circled is a support strut between the heads and rear suspension mounts. It's moulded in metal as part of the A-arm. Well, it's a V6, so the heads are offset. One side the strut fits into the hole and the other side is too short, because they made them the same length. Hey, I had to nit pick something! Easy enough fix.

More painting needed on those exhausts I think.

Actual car:

[kyledehart5]

That whole rear unit is looking exceptional!! Just great. I love it.

[handiabled]

You are really nailing the details of this! The powertrain and suspension look fantastic!

[406 Silverado]

Sept 20, 2024 17:23:46 GMT -5 arcticwolf said:

Step 2 complete. 57 parts and 18 decals. The only complaint is a minor flaw in Meng's engineering. The area circled is a support strut between the heads and rear suspension mounts. It's moulded in metal as part of the A-arm. Well, it's a V6, so the heads are offset. One side the strut fits into the hole and the other side is too short, because they made them the same length. Hey, I had to nit pick something! Easy enough fix.

  Funny how that works aint it Paul? When I built AMT's 2017 50th Anniversary Camaro, I found that AMT put the master window/ door lock switches on the passengers door panel even though the steering wheel and all of the foot pedals were on the L/H side of the car. They must've been trying to depict a special "Controlling Wives Edition" of the car or something. lol 

[joelw]

Paul,
Step 2 looks great. I had to laugh when you posted that you finally found an issue that you had to deal with even though it was pretty small.

As for those exhaust pipes needing a little more paint. I'd go with just a tad of heat staining at best, as they do look pretty good as they are right now.

joel

[greg]

Sept 21, 2024 1:16:39 GMT -5 kyledehart5 said:

That whole rear unit is looking exceptional!! Just great. I love it.

Well said. I agree, can't say it better.

[arcticwolf]

The previous post was actually step 3 complete (mostly hook up hoses).

Step 4, the cockpit. 11 parts plus 33 decals. Plus seat belts and the Marlboro decals.

The kit decals are a bit hard to work with, for me anyway as I'm used to Indycals and my own home prints. Meng's are very tough, don't stretch, but also don't slide no matter what you use, so positioning them is an adventure. They also don't all fit, some are perfect and some a bit off, but they worked in the end.

I tossed the kit belts (paper) and used my own dressmakers ribbon.

Semi gloss clearcoat over everything.

[arcticwolf]

Step 5, dashboard and front suspension. 38 parts and 14 decals, some so tiny I can barely see them never mind work with them. I really am getting too old for this.

The kit has metal springs but they're just for show, the suspension does not work like a Tamiya kit would. Steers fine though.

[kyledehart5]

Wonderful!! That all looks excellent and no way you’re getting too old for this turning out lovely work like this. So many great details!!

[handiabled]

I'd have never guessed the decals fought you they look fantastic! That is a great looking harness set you installed as well!

[joelw]

Paul,
Outstanding job on the drivers pit capsule. Belts look great as usual.

I've had the can't move the damn decal once it hits the model issue many a time, so I went back to my ABC's for a solution. I apply warm water with a drop or two of Dishwashing detergent that lets the decal kind of float. Then I slowly work the decal into position. All decal solutions go on the top after I settle it down and in place.  I've also bought a coffee cup warmer with 3 temp settings and use the lowest setting of 135 f degrees. The warm water really makes a huge difference on thicker decals softening up.  Plus the decals release from the backing paper much quicker.

joel

[paddy]

Agree , warm water is essential not only to soften the decal but to soften the glue.
I bought one of those heated cup/mug mats that plugs in a USB and put my saucer of water on that and it keeps it warm all day.

[keavdog]

Great color on the tub. What material is that supposed to represent?

[406 Silverado]

Still coming along nicely on this one Paul. I can't remember the last time I saw a "Marlboro" logo since the ban on tobacco advertising went into effect. One day......one day I'd love to build this car in 1/24 scale.

[arcticwolf]

Sept 25, 2024 10:11:38 GMT -5 paddy said:

Agree , warm water is essential not only to soften the decal but to soften the glue.
I bought one of those heated cup/mug mats that plugs in a USB and put my saucer of water on that and it keeps it warm all day.

Normally yes, didn't seem to help in this case. The decals conform quite well, just don't slide. A couple of drops of Dawn in some water, applied to the model before transferring the decal helped a bit. Basically just plain annoying.

There is some heat shielding that goes on the floor, it's not peel and stick foil like you might expect. It's 4 decals that they supply, and they were the opposite. Slid in to place easily, but very fragile and easy to tear.

I really should have printed my own carbon fibre for it, but it has worked in the end - so far - and it's more realistic than the Protar MP4/2 by far.

[arcticwolf]

Sept 25, 2024 11:17:03 GMT -5 keavdog said:

Great color on the tub. What material is that supposed to represent?

Some form of carbon fibre or maybe Kevlar. It's pretty close to the real car.

[arcticwolf]

The Protar (Italeri) MP4/2 I built had horrible decals. (It was a horrible kit).

I printed up a sheet (several sheets) that is semi transparent, it gives texture but lets the base colour show through

They went over everything

Mine come to life after the clear coat is applied. I think it's an improvement. But I'm happy enough with the look of the Meng, once it's done.

[joelw]

Paul,
Your custom home made decals really look great. One day I've gotta learn how to actually make my own decals.

The photo of the real car with the body work off and roped off with pipe would make a fantastic way to display your build.

joel

[arcticwolf]

Sept 25, 2024 13:25:58 GMT -5 joelw said:

Paul,
Your custom home made decals really look great. One day I've gotta learn how to actually make my own decals.

The photo of the real car with the body work off and roped off with pipe would make a fantastic way to display your build.

joel

Buy an Epson printer, and Epson ink. Epson ink is waterproof, the other guys, not so waterproof.   Also not so Tamiya TS13 proof.

[arcticwolf]

Step 6. 23 parts and 10 more decals. The rads are photo etch, it looked OK but I brushed on some Alclad 103 and wiped it off, just to enhance the 3D effect. Then you add all the hoses.

[project510]

Looking really good!

[arcticwolf]

Step 7 is 1 part and 24 decals. Yep, the floor.

Then you attach it to the chassis, with 6 screws that are too short for the job. It's pinned and CA'd together.

[arcticwolf]

So, a major problem. My kit is missing a turbocharger. Well, half of one. It wasn't on the sprue and it's not in the bag, just missing. I have the other one, but they are mirror images of eachother.

So now I make a mould, cast a duplicate, and attempt to modify it from left hand to right hand. Oh joy.

So far I have this:

Not a happy camper.

[paddy]

This is what i use then it doesnt matter whether you ink is waterproof, you could brush small decals but its best sprayed.

www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/28ml-micro-liquid-decal-film-microscale-p15796/?utm_source=sms-feed&utm_campaign=Copy%20&utm_medium=sms-woo&utm_term=74615&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjNS3BhChARIsAOxBM6pgUTpp3VJAcmEYMPJgChTAg3MqQ9XM25Fp8QrTKgHoRBaXQLeIfk0aAqAwEALw_wcB

[Steve Zuleski]

Wow, detail is awesome!

[handiabled]

Fantastic attention to detail! I always dread empty spots on sprue trees but it looks like you have a solid remedy for the turbo. Just a hassle to have to go through all of that extra work for a piece that should have been there to begin with.

[arcticwolf]

Sept 27, 2024 1:07:46 GMT -5 handiabled said:

Fantastic attention to detail! I always dread empty spots on sprue trees but it looks like you have a solid remedy for the turbo. Just a hassle to have to go through all of that extra work for a piece that should have been there to begin with.

Exactly. I decided to build the Meng because it was a brand new kit still in it's shrink wrap. I'd had enough scratch building for a while with the Matra.

But no point complaining, it's just a bit more work.

[arcticwolf]

Sept 26, 2024 17:07:57 GMT -5 paddy said:

This is what i use then it doesnt matter whether you ink is waterproof, you could brush small decals but its best sprayed.

www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/28ml-micro-liquid-decal-film-microscale-p15796/?utm_source=sms-feed&utm_campaign=Copy%20&utm_medium=sms-woo&utm_term=74615&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjNS3BhChARIsAOxBM6pgUTpp3VJAcmEYMPJgChTAg3MqQ9XM25Fp8QrTKgHoRBaXQLeIfk0aAqAwEALw_wcB

I have a few bottles of that stuff. It's OK. I have been using Testors 9200 decal bonder which I prefer, I'll be stuck when I run out since they don't make it any more.

I don't own an air brush so rattle cans are more convenient for me. Another solution is to spay on a few light coats of clear lacquer, it works OK.

I stick to waterproof ink just in case. I have had what I thought was a sealed decal run, because when you cut out the decal, you're cutting the sealant. Epson make Eco Tank printers, the ink's expensive but it lasts 10 times longer than cartridges. It's a lot cheaper in the end and why take a chance?