Hinksy
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 13, 2012 6:28:21 GMT -5
Cheers Bish, Obviously I'll be laying the Panzer Grey basecoat down first so I'm going to paint the base of the tank and use that as a test bed. I'll try Tamiya Flat Brown, Tamiya NATO Brown and Vallejo Chocolate Brown. Bill is a source of good knowledge re this shade so hopefully he'll help. I think it need to be very dark brown which really rules out the NATO (unless I add some black to darken). I have Gunze Wood Brown which also looks like a 'possible'? Update for yesterday: Just quickly I assembled and teste fitted the Jack and toolboxes, fitted the headlights and added some basic fuse wire conduit runs to the headlights - basic but look fine. Friuls have been started and are damn tricky being so small!   Start of Friuls - FIDDLY!  Hope you like her so far (sorry for the slow build rate) and painting commences next weekend! Cheers guys, Ben  |
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Post by wbill76 on Aug 13, 2012 12:57:46 GMT -5
Ben, I can't offer any advice on acrylics unfortunately. All I can do is point you to the actual color chips of the Dark Brown used (from PT 1-2) and then it would be up to you to try to find a close match either with an existing paint line or by mixing your own. FWIW, I use Testors Panzer Schokoladenbraun (enamel) straight out of the bottle for when I'm applying a 2-tone scheme. It's a very dark brown to begin with so if you start there with that tone you may wish to lighten it depending on the weathering you apply afterwards.  Of course if you apply lighter shades in your weathering vs. darker, you work in the reverse. That's what I did with my Tamiya Polish Campaign Pz II and it ended up like this.  |
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Post by deafpanzer on Aug 13, 2012 16:19:30 GMT -5
Those RB barrels are killers! They always make builds look great. Agree with Bill... often we can not tell the difference in B&W photos because they both were so dark.
Have fun with those Friuls!!!
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Hinksy
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 18, 2012 7:21:15 GMT -5
Hi guys, Still slow progress due to my workload plus we have soooo many people off sick with a stomach Flu I'm having to work 2pm-10pm today so the day on which I'd wanted to get the German Grey basecoat on I'm restricted to assembling Friuls. In theory manning the emergeny work phone from home on Saturday is notoriously quiet there's always the risk of being stuck on a 60 minute phonecall with someone - a call that will no doubt come when my airbrush is fully loaded and in use - not good! On the plus side it's double time now so the offer of this shift was not to be sniffed at Like I say I'll be doing Friul assembly during work time today now and I'll start painting tomorrow. I have just had a delivery of two brown colours and have just taken a sheet of plasticard which I can wipe down later with Cellulose so it's not wasted The below photo and link: In the centre is a quick squirt of TS-4 Tamiya German Grey rattlecan spray that I had and around it is a cemi-circle of some browns that I have, you can see their names and colours quite well. After looking at Bills website link to his Pz II here (I hope you don't mind me doing this Bill) www.bpmodels.net/Model/Album/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38 Scroll about halfway down to see the painting stages on the link. I think the Vallejo Chocolate Brown is ideal and I'm sold on it BUT would like you chaps to look and see what you think - the colours go from very dark browns to light browns (there are several photos):      I'm not going to start mixing colours - close enough is fine as it's going to be very dusty. I like the Vallejo Chocolate Brown? You? Cheers lads, Ben |
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Post by 406 Silverado on Aug 18, 2012 11:15:30 GMT -5
yeah the darker brown is a good choice. The dusting will lighten the brown so that's my choice.
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Hinksy
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 19, 2012 13:11:28 GMT -5
Cheers guys, I've tried my hand at most basic Cammo schemes but am yet to try this one - being a BIG fan of these early war machines I thought it be best to get this colour spot on (or as near as dammit anyway)! I've really struggled for build time in the last couple of months due to work, work, work and oh, more work! People off sick, no-one to cover shifts and as a result I'm shattered at the weekends (when I'm not working and have build time I find it hard to get really motivated to build as I'm so shattered)  AAGGHHH! I'm not meaning to sound ungrateful in any way as I know there are so many people that need work but it's the sheer number of hours and the build time that is eluding me that is really getting me down at the minute. Ho hum! This bloody hot weather doesn't help as I HATE itAnyway, on a positive note. It won't last long and overtime will be down to two extra shifts a month. The Friuls are nigh on complete and next weekend is totally free (and we have a UK Monday Bank Holiday on the 27th August) so I'm hoping to make an impact next weekend. One question regarding the additional armour (bolted on plates around the drivers visor). I've seen some models with the tiny gaps between the plates all filled. Should I really be filling these gaps in or leving a little visual gap between each plate. Surely WWII tanks with bolted on armour would not have perfectly interlocking plates like the woodwork of a master craftsman? It's no problem to fill the gaps but I'd like to read your thoughts on this subject? Pictures from the time are 'difficult' to read! Many thanks, Ben  |
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Post by wbill76 on Aug 19, 2012 13:32:05 GMT -5
Ben,
The base plates of the hull were all welded construction so there shouldn't be an gaps on those plates...which is probably what you see people filling in. The additional bolted on plates weren't thick (14.5mm) so in scale the "gap" that would exist would be very very small between then and the original armor base plate. HTH!
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Hinksy
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 19, 2012 13:54:37 GMT -5
You say the plates are welded Bill but they have bolt head detail?
You are talking about the plates around the turret base where the vision slits are?
Cheers matey,
Ben
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Post by wbill76 on Aug 19, 2012 20:06:05 GMT -5
Ben,
Sorry for any confusion...there are 2 sets of armor plates on your vehicle. The first set are the "original" plates before the 2nd set was bolted on. The first set were welded together so there should be no gaps where they meet/join as a result. The "zusatzpanzer" plates that were bolted over these would have small gaps between themselves and the original plates...but very small as the plates weren't very thick to start with.
Where the bolt-on plates meet each other, there should be no gaps as they were cut with beveled edges to butt against each other. The reference photos I've got showing close-ups of those joins show no gap. I assume that's what you were asking about after re-reading your post?
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WigWag Workshop
Reviews member 
Member since: May 2012
"Keep The Glue On The Styrene"
Posts: 720
May 22, 2012 7:25:45 GMT -5
May 22, 2012 7:25:45 GMT -5
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Post by WigWag Workshop on Aug 20, 2012 16:10:01 GMT -5
Looks like a fun kit! Nice selection of goodies, to go along with the build. Will be watching for sure.
-Steven
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Hinksy
Full Member
Member since: June 2012
THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
Posts: 1,016
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 20, 2012 17:59:45 GMT -5
Ben, Sorry for any confusion...there are 2 sets of armor plates on your vehicle. The first set are the "original" plates before the 2nd set was bolted on. The first set were welded together so there should be no gaps where they meet/join as a result. The "zusatzpanzer" plates that were bolted over these would have small gaps between themselves and the original plates...but very small as the plates weren't very thick to start with. Where the bolt-on plates meet each other, there should be no gaps as they were cut with beveled edges to butt against each other. The reference photos I've got showing close-ups of those joins show no gap. I assume that's what you were asking about after re-reading your post? Hi Bill, As usual - a perfect answer! Many thanks buddy - out with the filler! Cheers dude, Ben |
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AAGGHHH! 
