Post by mshackleton on Feb 20, 2013 8:57:52 GMT -5
AFV Club Panzerfunkwagen Sd.Kfz.263 (8 Rad) Initial/Early version
AF35263
Scale 1.35
Reviewed by Mike Shackleton
Background
The heavy Panzerspähwagen was a large but very fast addition to the German mobile arsenal of the early war years. The original 6-Rad (6-wheeled) versions were based on 6x4 truck chassis with an armoured body, but by 1937 they were being replaced by 8-Rad versions. During the replacement, the Sd.Kfz. numbers were carried over being differentiated by the addition of 6-Rad or 8-Rad in the designation.
They first saw combat in the campaign against Poland and the Battle of France. Later, they saw use in both the USSR and North Africa. Extreme climatic conditions in both areas proved too severe for the vehicle. In the USSR, adverse ground conditions immobilised many of them during the first wet season of the campaign. In the desert, heat and sand created maintenance problems. However, the eight-wheeled cars turned out to be the best vehicles that Rommel had for long-range reconnaissance across the wide desert territory.
The Sd.Kfz.232-series was an eight-wheeled, all-wheel drive, all-wheel steering chassis to improve off-road capabilities and maneuverability compared to its 6-wheeled predecessors. They had 15 mm of sloped homogeneous steel armour at the front, 8 mm at the sides, and 10 mm at the rear, with 6 mm and 5 mm of armour, top and bottom, respectively. This armour only provided protection against small arms fire and HE fragments. They employed an unusual dual driver arrangement with one driver seated at each end of the vehicle. This allowed the vehicle to be driven in either direction (forward or backward) with equal ease.
Production versions of the series were fitted with a 155 hp, 8-cylinder Büssing-NAG L8V-G petrol engine, which gave a top speed of 85 km/h (53 mph) and a range of 300 km (190 miles). Production started in 1937 and 240 were produced.
The Sd.Kfz.263 was based on the Sd.Kfz.232 series with a fixed superstructure in place of a rotating cannon-armed turret. It had a single 7.92 mm MG34 machine gun for self-defence. It was a dedicated radio vehicle with a bedstead frame aerial.
Inside, the vehicle was equipped with folding map tables and additional radio equipment. Most were issued to reconnaissance or signals battalions of armoured divisions. The bigger hull was justified by an increase of the crew to five, two of them being radio operators. The radio equipment consisted of a Funkgerat fur msttleren Pz.-Funktrupp ‘b’ radio station and Kurbelmast ‘P’ adjustable telescopic antenna.
After the beginning of the Second World War, fighting experience proved that fast acting motorised units required co-ordinated command, and cars with radio communication equipment could provide the necessary liaison. At this time the Sd.Kfz.263 (8-Rad) cars started to be used in their new role as mobile command units. One of the first commanders to appreciate the advantages of the Sd.Kfz.263 was Major-General Erwin Rommel, the commander of 7. Panzer Division at the start of the war. These armoured cars were used in all theatres almost until the end of the war. By the end of 1944, these command cars proved less useful, and only single Sd.Kfz.263s served in fighting units by the end of war.
The Kit
AFV Club have already released two vehicles from the same family - Sd.Kfz.231 (AF35231) and 232 (A35232) - and many of the sprues in the Sd.Kfz.263 are, naturally, identical.
Upon opening the box you are presented with ten sprues (including one clear) containing the majority of the parts. The delicate sprues containing the aerial head and the side hand rails are protected in a soft foam bag. The chassis comes in its own clear plastic box. Also included are eight vinyl tyres, vinyl drive shaft boots, two brass frets and a decal sheet. As with other recent AFV Club kits, also included is a print of the box-top art. All of the sprues have identification letters and part numbers.
The contents are:
1. Sprue "A", 2 supplied. Wheels, leaf springs, suspension arms, drive shafts and cover, differentials, fire extinguisher, mud flaps, visors, hooks, chassis cross members, seats, width indicators.
2. Sprue "B". Hull floor, lower hull sides, lower hull - front and rear, steering wheels, bottom of the engine and other engine parts, various smaller fittings.
3. Sprue "C". Main hull sides and hatches, nose plates and hatches, radiator grille, engine grille (closed) and hatches, dashboard, turret base (not needed).
4. Sprue "D". Mudguards, mudguard boxes and doors, exhaust parts, shovels.
5. Sprue "E". Hull top and engine deck.
6. Sprue "H". Clear parts - lights.
7. Sprue "I". Chassis.
See 5 above.
8. Sprue "L". Frame aerial, telescoping aerial head and mast, superstructure front and rear panels and hatches.
9. Sprue "M". Main superstructure.
10. Sprue "N". Nose armour, handrails, engine grille (open).
11. Sprue "T". Vinyl parts - driveshaft boots.
12. Two brass frets - exhaust guards, tool clasp handles, numerous brackets, aerial base, lifting hooks (alternatives for plastic parts).
13. Decals.
14. Vinyl tyres.
No crew figures are included.
First Impressions
As we have come to expect from AFV Club, the overall quality of the parts is very, very good with excellent moulding and superb moulded-on detail throughout. There is some minor flash on some parts and minor sink marks, but nothing to worry about. As is normal with AFV Club kits, there are many small parts attached to the sprues that will need careful removal and clean up. Ejector pin marks are blissfully free and when they do occur (and show) they will be easy to clean up.
Having just reviewed the AFV Club Dorchester which comes with a fully-equipped interior, I was quite surprised to see that this kit does not have any of the interior related to its radio vehicle role. It does have driver stations front and rear from this manufacturer’s previous Sd.Kfz.231 and 232 kits, but no radios or tables associated with this particular vehicle. Having said that, very little of the interior will be seen through the open hatches, so it is no great loss in reality.
The hull is a now familiar flat pack affair of separate panels which will have to be carefully assembled to get the angles correct. The drive train is hugely detailed and, at first, looks quite complex. It’s nice to have the tool boxes inside the mudguards with separate doors.
The most amazing things about this kit are the aerials. The frame aerial is more refined than we have seen from previous manufacturers’ Sd.Kfz.232 kits, for example, and then there is the telescopic aerial. It comes with two different heads so that it can be built telescoped down in the travel position or fully extended. In this case, the mast is very delicate, especially at the top, as are the five extensions on the head which have been moulded surrounded by an umbrella structure of sprues, the like of which I’ve never seen before. Amazing.
The rear louvres can be seen through so that the fan belt assembly and rear facing engine detail can be seen.
The four vision ports for driver and co-driver are of the initial type with double slits. Later series 1 vehicles had these replaced with one long slit (change made in 1938).
There were a number of interim changes made to the lower edge of the front and rear mudguards before the shape was standardised. Initial production vehicles had the lower edge of the front fenders extending lower than the steering guard, so the inside lower edge was angled upwards. However, the kits guards are level across their width. Check your references as many photos show level edges.
Instructions
The instructions are presented as a 16-page, A4, stapled, black and white booklet. Each construction step is illustrated in a logical order with beautifully clear and large line drawings. There are 33 steps in the construction process and I can’t imagine many problems being encountered although some of the steps are quite dense with many small parts to be added.
I have already posted the instructions here if you want to refer to them: modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/3898/afv-club-sdkfz-263
The build
Take the chassis out of its protective plastic box, cut out no less than 14 sprue connections between the rails, and we can start step 1. Two cross frames and eight bump stops are then added. Step 2 has an end frame which needs to be added as well as some small fittings on the rails. The rear driver’s foot pedals are then added to another cross frame and fixed into the chassis. In step 3, we build four sets of drive shafts which include the vinyl boots (parts T1). The drive shafts each have balls on their ends. All will be revealed later. Each of the drive shafts is then trapped inside different differential housings clearly marked A and B in the instruction. Don’t get the parts mixed up. Along with the drive shafts, upper and lower suspension arms are also trapped in the housings. A + B is then paired up in step 4 with a prop shaft between them to form the two front drive units with the other pair forming the rear. The two pairs are also joined by another prop shaft between them and all are attached to the chassis rails. A transfer box is also added in between the rails.
In step 5, we take the bottom of the engine and add a timing case, a mounting frame and fan belt. It’s a shame the top of the engine is not included as it will be visible if you choose to go with the option of the open rear deck grilles. The completed engine unit can then go onto the chassis connected to the transfer box via another prop shaft. Two fuel tanks are also dropped in between the rails. Four small support brackets then go on the sides of the chassis in step 6. Two cross frames sit on top of these brackets in step 7 and a long steering shaft is attached down the left side. It is via this shaft that the front pair and the rear pair of wheels is steered in opposite directions due to some clever German engineering – on the real thing, not the kit. In step 8, leaf springs are added to the tops of the suspension arms. Four sets of left and right steering linkages are added along each pair of axles in step 9. The only things to add in step 10 are the rear steering column and the mount across the chassis frame for the driver’s foot pedals.
In steps 11 and 12, the lower hull sides are attached to the floor and an angled cross frame keeps the angles of the sides correct. I would be tempted to add the lower front and rear ends (in steps 16 and 18) at this stage to make double sure that the angles are correct. In step 13, the front driver pedals and more rear driver pedals are added.
Step 14 takes us through building the wheels. Each wheel has a brake drum inserted and a hub carrier with a short steering arm. Leave the tyres off for now as it will make handling the model a bit easier, especially when adding the mudguards. Protective plates alongside the chassis are now attached (step 15) to hide away the sides of the suspension as well as the large central transmission guard.
It is at this point that the wheels can be added. Decide if you want to pose them straight or steered, and carefully study step 16. The hub carriers fit over the axle balls and two pins on each wheel locate into the suspension swing arms allowing the wheels to steer freely if not glued in place. Note that the front two wheel pairs point in the opposite direction to the rear two wheel pairs while steering. If you thought you had finished with the steering linkages, think again! Each wheel station gets two more arms each linked by a further cross arm. These can be glued at any angle depending on your choice of steering position. Also in this step, you have a choice of front plate (already mentioned in step 12). The kit has the option of the additional armoured nose plate so one nose plate has slots fir this, the other doesn’t if you choose not to use it. The rear plate is impressive because all of the tiny vent slots are open! I won’t count them. I’m not that crazy – yet!
Flip the hull over and we can start kitting out the interior. In steps 17 and 18, the drivers’ seats, levers, front steering column and steering wheels are added front and rear. The last part of these steps is to add the rear hull panel with its see-through louvres.
If you would like to model the engine vent doors on the sides in the open position, you are given optional parts for the hinges which attach to the inner hull sides in step 19. If you don’t want the doors open, forget these parts. The rear dashboard is attached at this stage. The lower hull access doors and signal doors are dealt with in step 20. An interior detail here are two side facing signal lights that have the clear plastic light with etched reflectors and etched slides which are quite nice when assembled. However, it’s a pity you won’t see them after the hull is assembled.
Mudguards are next. Don’t forget to check your references regarding the note above about the angled cut-outs on the front and rear edges. The kit edges are straight. Each one has a stowage box added from behind and doors added on the side and top. It takes four steps to describe these, 21-24. Each mudguard has something different attached – spades, boxes, extinguisher, horns, mud flaps and those funny triangular things on the front (what are they?) and exhaust assemblies on the rear mudguards topped off with etch guards. In step 23, there is a flag staff on the front left fender listed as optional - these were dropped by the start of the second series. Whilst this part is finely moulded, it would be better in PE. Width indicators are also mentioned, but I’d leave then until last. Brass poles are available from AFV Club: www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/afvclub/ag35035.html.
I hope you did leave the tyres off the wheels because if you didn’t you will now have to negotiate the mudguards over them to attach them to the hull sides (step 25). Step plates can be added between front and rear mudguards and tow hooks added to the hull sides. Turning to the rear plate, number plates and rear lights (with clear lenses) are added in step 26 and then headlights (with clear lenses) at the front.
Just behind the superstructure on the left side is a swing mount for an anti-aircraft machine gun. This was dropped in production in November 1938 and ordered for removal from those already fitted. Check your references on this. This is noted as an option in step 27 where the mounting bracket has to be removed from the hull side.
Step 28 details the rear engine deck and don’t forget that the side doors can be posed open if you have used the hinge parts from step 19. The top deck grilles have optional parts with open or closed vent slats. The base of the telescopic aerial, with its winding handle, is mounted under the rear hull and a brass plate and the upper part of the base is added to the hull top. (If you want to build the first series model without the telescopic aerial, you will have to leave this mast off and leave the hole undrilled. You will also have to use the frame aerial from the Sd.Kfz.232 kit without the kink in it.)
The upper decks are then attached to the lower sides in step 29. Don’t forget to finish painting your interior first. Obvious - I know. Nose doors and tools on the front are also attached. Fittings to the hull sides are next in step 30, and there are quite a few of them – visors (see note above as these represent the early model style), side lights, indicators, small hooks (which are supplied in either plastic or etch), and handrails as an option for the early version (check references).
The new upper structure (step 31) has separate pistol port covers and a hole has to be drilled for an electrical insulator on the hull roof. With the frame aerial in place later on, an electrical cable can be added leading into the insulator. The front panel is attached and detailed with visors and an MG34 if desired. Step 32 completes the top by adding the rear panel with more visors, two doors and the front frame aerial frame legs, joined together with a semi-circular brace.
Step 33 completes the build and nicely tops the kit off. There is some discussion about the frame aerial. The rear cross-member is supposedly too far forward which means that the rear support legs are angled too far forward. I don’t know enough about this vehicle to say if it is right or wrong, but it shouldn’t be too difficult to move it backwards with some careful cutting and re-gluing. Whatever you choose to do, the frame is mounted on its four legs. If the telescopic aerial is stowed, there is one short head supplied. However, if the aerial is extended, four very, very fine parts represent the aerial with great finesse - and delicacy. The last two options are the additional nose armour (later version) and the side-mounted MG mount (earliest version).
Markings
These cover four options:
1. 7. Panzer Division, Russia 1941 in Panzer Grey and with nose armour.
2. 3. Reconnaissance Battalion, 21 Panzer Division, Libya 1941 in Sand.
3. 7. Panzer Division, France 1940 in Panzer Grey.
4. 4. Panzer Division, Poland 1939 in Panzer Grey.
The Competition
In 1.35 sale, and in plastic, there is none at present, though another model has been announced by Bronco. I remember having different resin conversion parts for use with the venerable Tamiya Sd.Kfz.232 from New Connection Models, Commanders and Cr-iel, none of which were particularly good because I sold them all! Pit Road also produced a conversion set at one time. So AFV Club has the market to itself at the moment.
An etch set and resin is available for the AFV Club SdKfz231/232, all of which will be applicable to this kit: www.voyagermodel.com/productdetails.asp?itemid=PE35490
Conclusions
AFV Club nearly always leave something out. This is not meant as a criticism. It is true of the M109A2 I reviewed recently where it has been left to the after-market to supply interior details. The same is also true here where the ONLY disappointment with the 263 is the lack of tables and radio equipment inside, however invisible they will be in the finished model.
I’ve always wanted to build one of these and now I have no excuse. I love this kit. The under-carriage looks a little daunting but take your time and it should be OK. The frame aerial may need to be modified if you are not happy with the last cross member. However, with that telescopic aerial erected it will make a very imposing model that will catch everyone’s eye - literally. This will have to be displayed very, very carefully away from the curious cat or child or the wife with her duster! It is indeed a very fine kit, once again, from AFV Club.
The model for this review was kindly donated by AFV Club.
References
www.warwheels.net/sdkfz263INDEX.html
A few photos on these sites:
www.wehrmacht-history.com/heer/armoured-cars/Sd.Kfz.263-8-rad-panzerfunkwagen.htm
A very detailed review of the previous Sd.Kfz.232 kit from AFV Club which notes some production detail differences that are relevant to the 263 reviewed here: scaleplasticandrail.com/kaboom/index.php/all-things-military-vehicle/135-scale/kit-reviews/1477-135-schwere-panzerspaehwagen-sdkfz232-8-rad-early-type-from-afv-club
www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/afvclub/afv35231-2.html
Panzer Tracts No.13-2, Sd.Kfz.231, 232, 263 8-rad, Hilary Doyle and Tom Jentz.
Panzerspähwagen Sd.Kfz.231/232, Tankograd Special 4010.
Armoured Vehicles of the German Army, 1905-1945, Walter J. Spielberger.
German 8-wheeled Reconnaissance Vehicles, Schiffer Publications.
Military Vehicles in Detail 2, Sd.Kfz.231/234 8-rad, Terry J Gander.
AF35263
Scale 1.35
Reviewed by Mike Shackleton
Background
The heavy Panzerspähwagen was a large but very fast addition to the German mobile arsenal of the early war years. The original 6-Rad (6-wheeled) versions were based on 6x4 truck chassis with an armoured body, but by 1937 they were being replaced by 8-Rad versions. During the replacement, the Sd.Kfz. numbers were carried over being differentiated by the addition of 6-Rad or 8-Rad in the designation.
They first saw combat in the campaign against Poland and the Battle of France. Later, they saw use in both the USSR and North Africa. Extreme climatic conditions in both areas proved too severe for the vehicle. In the USSR, adverse ground conditions immobilised many of them during the first wet season of the campaign. In the desert, heat and sand created maintenance problems. However, the eight-wheeled cars turned out to be the best vehicles that Rommel had for long-range reconnaissance across the wide desert territory.
The Sd.Kfz.232-series was an eight-wheeled, all-wheel drive, all-wheel steering chassis to improve off-road capabilities and maneuverability compared to its 6-wheeled predecessors. They had 15 mm of sloped homogeneous steel armour at the front, 8 mm at the sides, and 10 mm at the rear, with 6 mm and 5 mm of armour, top and bottom, respectively. This armour only provided protection against small arms fire and HE fragments. They employed an unusual dual driver arrangement with one driver seated at each end of the vehicle. This allowed the vehicle to be driven in either direction (forward or backward) with equal ease.
Production versions of the series were fitted with a 155 hp, 8-cylinder Büssing-NAG L8V-G petrol engine, which gave a top speed of 85 km/h (53 mph) and a range of 300 km (190 miles). Production started in 1937 and 240 were produced.
The Sd.Kfz.263 was based on the Sd.Kfz.232 series with a fixed superstructure in place of a rotating cannon-armed turret. It had a single 7.92 mm MG34 machine gun for self-defence. It was a dedicated radio vehicle with a bedstead frame aerial.
Inside, the vehicle was equipped with folding map tables and additional radio equipment. Most were issued to reconnaissance or signals battalions of armoured divisions. The bigger hull was justified by an increase of the crew to five, two of them being radio operators. The radio equipment consisted of a Funkgerat fur msttleren Pz.-Funktrupp ‘b’ radio station and Kurbelmast ‘P’ adjustable telescopic antenna.
After the beginning of the Second World War, fighting experience proved that fast acting motorised units required co-ordinated command, and cars with radio communication equipment could provide the necessary liaison. At this time the Sd.Kfz.263 (8-Rad) cars started to be used in their new role as mobile command units. One of the first commanders to appreciate the advantages of the Sd.Kfz.263 was Major-General Erwin Rommel, the commander of 7. Panzer Division at the start of the war. These armoured cars were used in all theatres almost until the end of the war. By the end of 1944, these command cars proved less useful, and only single Sd.Kfz.263s served in fighting units by the end of war.
The Kit
AFV Club have already released two vehicles from the same family - Sd.Kfz.231 (AF35231) and 232 (A35232) - and many of the sprues in the Sd.Kfz.263 are, naturally, identical.
Upon opening the box you are presented with ten sprues (including one clear) containing the majority of the parts. The delicate sprues containing the aerial head and the side hand rails are protected in a soft foam bag. The chassis comes in its own clear plastic box. Also included are eight vinyl tyres, vinyl drive shaft boots, two brass frets and a decal sheet. As with other recent AFV Club kits, also included is a print of the box-top art. All of the sprues have identification letters and part numbers.
The contents are:
1. Sprue "A", 2 supplied. Wheels, leaf springs, suspension arms, drive shafts and cover, differentials, fire extinguisher, mud flaps, visors, hooks, chassis cross members, seats, width indicators.
2. Sprue "B". Hull floor, lower hull sides, lower hull - front and rear, steering wheels, bottom of the engine and other engine parts, various smaller fittings.
3. Sprue "C". Main hull sides and hatches, nose plates and hatches, radiator grille, engine grille (closed) and hatches, dashboard, turret base (not needed).
4. Sprue "D". Mudguards, mudguard boxes and doors, exhaust parts, shovels.
5. Sprue "E". Hull top and engine deck.
6. Sprue "H". Clear parts - lights.
7. Sprue "I". Chassis.
See 5 above.
8. Sprue "L". Frame aerial, telescoping aerial head and mast, superstructure front and rear panels and hatches.
9. Sprue "M". Main superstructure.
10. Sprue "N". Nose armour, handrails, engine grille (open).
11. Sprue "T". Vinyl parts - driveshaft boots.
12. Two brass frets - exhaust guards, tool clasp handles, numerous brackets, aerial base, lifting hooks (alternatives for plastic parts).
13. Decals.
14. Vinyl tyres.
No crew figures are included.
First Impressions
As we have come to expect from AFV Club, the overall quality of the parts is very, very good with excellent moulding and superb moulded-on detail throughout. There is some minor flash on some parts and minor sink marks, but nothing to worry about. As is normal with AFV Club kits, there are many small parts attached to the sprues that will need careful removal and clean up. Ejector pin marks are blissfully free and when they do occur (and show) they will be easy to clean up.
Having just reviewed the AFV Club Dorchester which comes with a fully-equipped interior, I was quite surprised to see that this kit does not have any of the interior related to its radio vehicle role. It does have driver stations front and rear from this manufacturer’s previous Sd.Kfz.231 and 232 kits, but no radios or tables associated with this particular vehicle. Having said that, very little of the interior will be seen through the open hatches, so it is no great loss in reality.
The hull is a now familiar flat pack affair of separate panels which will have to be carefully assembled to get the angles correct. The drive train is hugely detailed and, at first, looks quite complex. It’s nice to have the tool boxes inside the mudguards with separate doors.
The most amazing things about this kit are the aerials. The frame aerial is more refined than we have seen from previous manufacturers’ Sd.Kfz.232 kits, for example, and then there is the telescopic aerial. It comes with two different heads so that it can be built telescoped down in the travel position or fully extended. In this case, the mast is very delicate, especially at the top, as are the five extensions on the head which have been moulded surrounded by an umbrella structure of sprues, the like of which I’ve never seen before. Amazing.
The rear louvres can be seen through so that the fan belt assembly and rear facing engine detail can be seen.
The four vision ports for driver and co-driver are of the initial type with double slits. Later series 1 vehicles had these replaced with one long slit (change made in 1938).
There were a number of interim changes made to the lower edge of the front and rear mudguards before the shape was standardised. Initial production vehicles had the lower edge of the front fenders extending lower than the steering guard, so the inside lower edge was angled upwards. However, the kits guards are level across their width. Check your references as many photos show level edges.
Instructions
The instructions are presented as a 16-page, A4, stapled, black and white booklet. Each construction step is illustrated in a logical order with beautifully clear and large line drawings. There are 33 steps in the construction process and I can’t imagine many problems being encountered although some of the steps are quite dense with many small parts to be added.
I have already posted the instructions here if you want to refer to them: modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/3898/afv-club-sdkfz-263
The build
Take the chassis out of its protective plastic box, cut out no less than 14 sprue connections between the rails, and we can start step 1. Two cross frames and eight bump stops are then added. Step 2 has an end frame which needs to be added as well as some small fittings on the rails. The rear driver’s foot pedals are then added to another cross frame and fixed into the chassis. In step 3, we build four sets of drive shafts which include the vinyl boots (parts T1). The drive shafts each have balls on their ends. All will be revealed later. Each of the drive shafts is then trapped inside different differential housings clearly marked A and B in the instruction. Don’t get the parts mixed up. Along with the drive shafts, upper and lower suspension arms are also trapped in the housings. A + B is then paired up in step 4 with a prop shaft between them to form the two front drive units with the other pair forming the rear. The two pairs are also joined by another prop shaft between them and all are attached to the chassis rails. A transfer box is also added in between the rails.
In step 5, we take the bottom of the engine and add a timing case, a mounting frame and fan belt. It’s a shame the top of the engine is not included as it will be visible if you choose to go with the option of the open rear deck grilles. The completed engine unit can then go onto the chassis connected to the transfer box via another prop shaft. Two fuel tanks are also dropped in between the rails. Four small support brackets then go on the sides of the chassis in step 6. Two cross frames sit on top of these brackets in step 7 and a long steering shaft is attached down the left side. It is via this shaft that the front pair and the rear pair of wheels is steered in opposite directions due to some clever German engineering – on the real thing, not the kit. In step 8, leaf springs are added to the tops of the suspension arms. Four sets of left and right steering linkages are added along each pair of axles in step 9. The only things to add in step 10 are the rear steering column and the mount across the chassis frame for the driver’s foot pedals.
In steps 11 and 12, the lower hull sides are attached to the floor and an angled cross frame keeps the angles of the sides correct. I would be tempted to add the lower front and rear ends (in steps 16 and 18) at this stage to make double sure that the angles are correct. In step 13, the front driver pedals and more rear driver pedals are added.
Step 14 takes us through building the wheels. Each wheel has a brake drum inserted and a hub carrier with a short steering arm. Leave the tyres off for now as it will make handling the model a bit easier, especially when adding the mudguards. Protective plates alongside the chassis are now attached (step 15) to hide away the sides of the suspension as well as the large central transmission guard.
It is at this point that the wheels can be added. Decide if you want to pose them straight or steered, and carefully study step 16. The hub carriers fit over the axle balls and two pins on each wheel locate into the suspension swing arms allowing the wheels to steer freely if not glued in place. Note that the front two wheel pairs point in the opposite direction to the rear two wheel pairs while steering. If you thought you had finished with the steering linkages, think again! Each wheel station gets two more arms each linked by a further cross arm. These can be glued at any angle depending on your choice of steering position. Also in this step, you have a choice of front plate (already mentioned in step 12). The kit has the option of the additional armoured nose plate so one nose plate has slots fir this, the other doesn’t if you choose not to use it. The rear plate is impressive because all of the tiny vent slots are open! I won’t count them. I’m not that crazy – yet!
Flip the hull over and we can start kitting out the interior. In steps 17 and 18, the drivers’ seats, levers, front steering column and steering wheels are added front and rear. The last part of these steps is to add the rear hull panel with its see-through louvres.
If you would like to model the engine vent doors on the sides in the open position, you are given optional parts for the hinges which attach to the inner hull sides in step 19. If you don’t want the doors open, forget these parts. The rear dashboard is attached at this stage. The lower hull access doors and signal doors are dealt with in step 20. An interior detail here are two side facing signal lights that have the clear plastic light with etched reflectors and etched slides which are quite nice when assembled. However, it’s a pity you won’t see them after the hull is assembled.
Mudguards are next. Don’t forget to check your references regarding the note above about the angled cut-outs on the front and rear edges. The kit edges are straight. Each one has a stowage box added from behind and doors added on the side and top. It takes four steps to describe these, 21-24. Each mudguard has something different attached – spades, boxes, extinguisher, horns, mud flaps and those funny triangular things on the front (what are they?) and exhaust assemblies on the rear mudguards topped off with etch guards. In step 23, there is a flag staff on the front left fender listed as optional - these were dropped by the start of the second series. Whilst this part is finely moulded, it would be better in PE. Width indicators are also mentioned, but I’d leave then until last. Brass poles are available from AFV Club: www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/afvclub/ag35035.html.
I hope you did leave the tyres off the wheels because if you didn’t you will now have to negotiate the mudguards over them to attach them to the hull sides (step 25). Step plates can be added between front and rear mudguards and tow hooks added to the hull sides. Turning to the rear plate, number plates and rear lights (with clear lenses) are added in step 26 and then headlights (with clear lenses) at the front.
Just behind the superstructure on the left side is a swing mount for an anti-aircraft machine gun. This was dropped in production in November 1938 and ordered for removal from those already fitted. Check your references on this. This is noted as an option in step 27 where the mounting bracket has to be removed from the hull side.
Step 28 details the rear engine deck and don’t forget that the side doors can be posed open if you have used the hinge parts from step 19. The top deck grilles have optional parts with open or closed vent slats. The base of the telescopic aerial, with its winding handle, is mounted under the rear hull and a brass plate and the upper part of the base is added to the hull top. (If you want to build the first series model without the telescopic aerial, you will have to leave this mast off and leave the hole undrilled. You will also have to use the frame aerial from the Sd.Kfz.232 kit without the kink in it.)
The upper decks are then attached to the lower sides in step 29. Don’t forget to finish painting your interior first. Obvious - I know. Nose doors and tools on the front are also attached. Fittings to the hull sides are next in step 30, and there are quite a few of them – visors (see note above as these represent the early model style), side lights, indicators, small hooks (which are supplied in either plastic or etch), and handrails as an option for the early version (check references).
The new upper structure (step 31) has separate pistol port covers and a hole has to be drilled for an electrical insulator on the hull roof. With the frame aerial in place later on, an electrical cable can be added leading into the insulator. The front panel is attached and detailed with visors and an MG34 if desired. Step 32 completes the top by adding the rear panel with more visors, two doors and the front frame aerial frame legs, joined together with a semi-circular brace.
Step 33 completes the build and nicely tops the kit off. There is some discussion about the frame aerial. The rear cross-member is supposedly too far forward which means that the rear support legs are angled too far forward. I don’t know enough about this vehicle to say if it is right or wrong, but it shouldn’t be too difficult to move it backwards with some careful cutting and re-gluing. Whatever you choose to do, the frame is mounted on its four legs. If the telescopic aerial is stowed, there is one short head supplied. However, if the aerial is extended, four very, very fine parts represent the aerial with great finesse - and delicacy. The last two options are the additional nose armour (later version) and the side-mounted MG mount (earliest version).
Markings
These cover four options:
1. 7. Panzer Division, Russia 1941 in Panzer Grey and with nose armour.
2. 3. Reconnaissance Battalion, 21 Panzer Division, Libya 1941 in Sand.
3. 7. Panzer Division, France 1940 in Panzer Grey.
4. 4. Panzer Division, Poland 1939 in Panzer Grey.
The Competition
In 1.35 sale, and in plastic, there is none at present, though another model has been announced by Bronco. I remember having different resin conversion parts for use with the venerable Tamiya Sd.Kfz.232 from New Connection Models, Commanders and Cr-iel, none of which were particularly good because I sold them all! Pit Road also produced a conversion set at one time. So AFV Club has the market to itself at the moment.
An etch set and resin is available for the AFV Club SdKfz231/232, all of which will be applicable to this kit: www.voyagermodel.com/productdetails.asp?itemid=PE35490
Conclusions
AFV Club nearly always leave something out. This is not meant as a criticism. It is true of the M109A2 I reviewed recently where it has been left to the after-market to supply interior details. The same is also true here where the ONLY disappointment with the 263 is the lack of tables and radio equipment inside, however invisible they will be in the finished model.
I’ve always wanted to build one of these and now I have no excuse. I love this kit. The under-carriage looks a little daunting but take your time and it should be OK. The frame aerial may need to be modified if you are not happy with the last cross member. However, with that telescopic aerial erected it will make a very imposing model that will catch everyone’s eye - literally. This will have to be displayed very, very carefully away from the curious cat or child or the wife with her duster! It is indeed a very fine kit, once again, from AFV Club.
The model for this review was kindly donated by AFV Club.
References
www.warwheels.net/sdkfz263INDEX.html
A few photos on these sites:
www.wehrmacht-history.com/heer/armoured-cars/Sd.Kfz.263-8-rad-panzerfunkwagen.htm
A very detailed review of the previous Sd.Kfz.232 kit from AFV Club which notes some production detail differences that are relevant to the 263 reviewed here: scaleplasticandrail.com/kaboom/index.php/all-things-military-vehicle/135-scale/kit-reviews/1477-135-schwere-panzerspaehwagen-sdkfz232-8-rad-early-type-from-afv-club
www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/afvclub/afv35231-2.html
Panzer Tracts No.13-2, Sd.Kfz.231, 232, 263 8-rad, Hilary Doyle and Tom Jentz.
Panzerspähwagen Sd.Kfz.231/232, Tankograd Special 4010.
Armoured Vehicles of the German Army, 1905-1945, Walter J. Spielberger.
German 8-wheeled Reconnaissance Vehicles, Schiffer Publications.
Military Vehicles in Detail 2, Sd.Kfz.231/234 8-rad, Terry J Gander.
Look forward to seeing it when you get around to it.