How to save a Sherman?

[panzerconor]

My very first (and only) Sherman. It's the tamiya kit that came with a few cool figures. I think I did a pretty good job given that it's a few years old now, and I wasn't as AMAZING as I am now(haha). I mainly want to save the decals I've done, because they came out good and I think they're the only sherman decals I have. 





My white "camo" if you wanna call it that, is my main issue. I want to get rid of that and bring out whatever details are in this kit. It's also going to get buttoned up, not open hatches. My plan is to make it knocked out. Not one of the rust buckets that everyone here seems to love, just something that took a nasty hit. 

So has anyone done this before? Repainting a tank but keeping most of the decals on it? I'm thinking I there could be a way to keep the white paint on it and making it look better, but I'm not too sure how to go about doing that.

Thanks!

-Conor

[bullardino]

I've never done such difficult task...

Wouldn't it be easier to do a tank that hasn't those big stars and redo all the signs masking and spraying them?

BTW those huge stars were soon removed from the tanks in ETO as panzers used them as target circles.

[bigjohn]

Heres a sherman make over I did last year. modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/3426/tamiya-m4-sherman-shelf-queen#page=1

as Luigi said, it didn't take long to loose those stars. You could get away witout any markings what so ever on a sherman.

[panzerconor]

I decided to go back over it all with an olive drab rattle can, I just masked off a few decals that were easy to keep on. But, I didn't see John's post, therefore I didn't go through the build log. SO! I left the decals on, and just finished scraping them off from underneath the paint and sanding the spots too. Really wish I had checked on here before I got caught up in the mess. I'll post pictures later. As of now it's all drying off in the basement. Luckily, it dries fast so I should have my new decals on before I go to bed.

Stay frosty boys.

[panzerconor]

Well this is messy.

I ended up scratching off the decals that were under the paint...


Decals reapplied after paint had dried, painted the rubber bit onto the wheels, then attacked this thing with an AK brown wash.

Then, the WTF moment:





The wash might be too strong I think. I used an enamel for the olive drab and I'm just guessing that the wash ate away at it, bringing out the paints from before hand. It's messy, but when all is said and done, it won't matter.

But, then this happened:



Those used to be glued to the tank... So I'm guessing again, that it ate away at the glue? It's not big deal either. I fear I might've used too much and will have to give this thing some TLC over the weekend. But when it all comes down to it, I'm sure I just went too fast with all this. I don't have that kind of patience that's critical building a good model. But, I work around that.

So here it sits, under the shadow of it's German counterpart.



Now my room smells like toxic sh*t, and I'll be sleeping with the windows opened over this cold night. Perks of the modeler I suppose


-Conor

[Deleted]

The rattle can OD wasn't cured enough when you used the AK wash. Just because it's dry to the touch doesn't mean it's cured and ready for weathering. Hobby enamels can take a month or so before being fully cured. Same same with the cupola and storage rack, that wash loosened the glue bond. That's why you have to be careful using enamel and oils on indy link tracks. Don't ask how I know this.....

I have had a 2010 Mustang GT sitting for 5 weeks now awaiting polishing. It will be ready in about another week and I live in the Mojave Desert!

One more thing, this isn't a race, we all like to see results, but sometimes if you take your time, the results will exceed your expectations. A wise man once said "Patience Grasshopper, patience"

G

[bullardino]

I agree with G, enamels take a loooong time to cure. And, most of all, share the same solvent with oils and AK washes. So the thinner of the washes reacts with the enamel and dissolves it.

The best way to give an enamel based wash over an enamel base paint is to seal the base with an acrylic varnish.

[panzerconor]

Thanks guys!

So I guess I was right? Unfortunately... I usually stick to acrylics for my base coat and painting, so that's why this was such a surprise. I'm going to have to seal this thing. I've never actually sealed a model before, but now is as good a time as any.

[panzerconor]

Would this seal it off? Or is Future the way to go?

picture278 by ronoc29, on Flickr

Like I said, sealing is all new to me, so I have noooo idea what to use haha

-Conor

[bigjohn]

Conor, the dullcote you have is all I used for years. Works just fine. But let it dry for a few day before adding washes. I also thin it with Laquer thinner. I mix by eye with slightly more thinner than Dullcote, say 40/60

[Deleted]

personally I would strip the paint off the model and start again that way you get a nice clean surface to work your magic on.

[Deleted]

May 18, 2013 11:03:54 GMT -5 @snipersmudge said:

personally I would strip the paint off the model and start again that way you get a nice clean surface to work your magic on.

At this point this is the best way to go.

There comes a time when you must stop adding bad on top of bad.

G

[panzerconor]

I hate to say it, looks like I'll be stripping. Wow. That sounded weird. But anyways, I was hoping to avoid this, but even my brilliant AK stuff only gaffed this thing off even more. So yes, it did turn into bad on bad, on some more bad after that. I'm heading to the hobby shop tomorrow to get some paints and other things I probably don't need, and I'll see what the guy there has to say.

Oh by the way...how do I strip this down?

[Deleted]

Since it's a mish mash of acrylic and enamel, go to Wally World and buy a pair of rubber gloves, a plastic container with a sealable lid big enough for all the parts, and then get yourself some "Purple Power" cleaner and degreaser.

Put everything in the container, pour in the Purple Power, seal the lid and............wait. It's best to pour in enough cleaner so it covers the parts. I bought a gallon size container. I seem to ferk up a lot of car bodies these days.

A couple of days and it should be real clean. Some scrubbing with an old tooth brush and plain water will be required.

Always use the rubber gloves, and take precaution around the cleaner. It is caustic, so take care. Afterward rinse with clear water to eliminate all residue. I suggest placing all the parts in a pie pan with tiny holes punched in the sides near the bottom. This will allow water to drain and keep any loose parts from disappearing down the sink drain.

G

[Teabone]

Panzerconor

I am sure that I have some spare Sherman decals so if you need them I can send them if you send me a message with a mailing address.

Bones.