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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2013 15:00:06 GMT -5
Awesome details!!
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Post by deafpanzer on Aug 18, 2013 16:04:00 GMT -5
Agreed... great details even the two cable looks pretty good being plastic!
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Hinksy
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 25, 2013 15:30:21 GMT -5
Hi guys, I've made good progress with this build this afternoon! I rounded off my last session so I could start today fresh with the turret. Tbh it was a real PITA to assemble properly - that spaced armour turret build is a first for me and was tricky at best. The Aber barrel looks good although when it arrived it had some black discolouration near the muzzle on it which was odd? It's no problem but I've got no idea what it is? Another thing I found was that the turret wouldn't drop into the hull - the hole was a tad too small so after sanding it out a bit it's sitting better but not ideal - check out the photos. So, I've got the next two days off work - time enough to sort the roadwheels and rollers and assemble the Cupola and fill some gaps.. I'm at a show tomorrow called "Tanks, Trucks and Firepower" which is about five minutes down the road from my house. They've got a great spread of cold War armour onwards right up to modern day stuff and live firing and simulated battles. Last year it was rained off but this year it's supposed to be BIG! Looking forward to that! Note the discolouration on the Aber barrel?So, she's looking good - apart from a few niggles a great build and a highly recommended kit! Ben
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Post by wbill76 on Aug 25, 2013 20:09:50 GMT -5
Nice progress Ben, normally Dragon turrets are a friction fit into the hull so that's surprising that you had to sand but glad it worked out. The discoloration on the barrel is unusual, turned aluminum barrels don't usually corrode so this one must have been exposed to something in the finishing process to create that. Make sure you prime it real good before painting to avoid any issues long-term.
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Post by Leon on Aug 25, 2013 20:45:05 GMT -5
Making really good progress Ben.Looking real good from were I'm sitting.
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Post by bbd468 on Aug 25, 2013 21:09:10 GMT -5
Well shame on me brother Ben .....i let this one get by me SOME HOW! I apologize fella. Ben, you do not mess about buddy, great build as usuall. Im bookmarked now!
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Post by deafpanzer on Aug 26, 2013 0:50:15 GMT -5
YES this is a GREAT update! Weird about the barrel... like Bill, make sure to apply plenty of primer on the barrel. Maybe sand it down to bare skin too.
God I love them Panzer IIIs... too much fun doing the GB thing! That was a year ago already...
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Hinksy
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THE ENGLISH LIONHEART - HINKSY!
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Jun 22, 2012 16:46:21 GMT -5
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 26, 2013 9:15:33 GMT -5
Wow! Everyone's on board! Cheers fellas! I've been playing around with the bloody hull and turret and had to enlarge the hole by a fraction and take a shave off the stepped 'thingy' that fits to the turret base for about 30 minutes this morning and although the turret fits better now it's still not 100% but it will do What I will do is take it to the model club night on the second Saturday of September and let the 'pros' take a look - them guys are good! They'll hopefully sort it but if not - don't rip on me for having a gap under the turret I was hoping one of you might have an idea on the barrel corrosion nut nothing! I have no idea! It arrived like that in a sealed Aber case with instructions. I brush paint Gunze's Mr. Metal Primer over all PE and Metal parts only and then apply a light spray of Tamiya white or grey plastic primer over the whole build too. The corrosion has no rough texture - it's just discoloured. I'd never built on of these spaced armour turrets and it was a real PITA - even the spaced armour for the the driver was fiddly too. The only other Pz.III that I'd done spaced armour on was the Tamiya Ausf.N and that was all moulded in one piece but now it's done - I love it. Be careful of the breech assembly as it's fiddly - if I were to build this again I'd definately use the kit barrel as it looks fine and the whole turret elevation and assembly is made easier as the barrel runs the whole length from Muzzle to Breech and is obviously plays a big part in the gun assembly. It's a UK bank holiday today so we are all off today PLUS I booked tomorrow off work to make a 4 day holiday 'model holiday' I'm going to make a start on the wheels now and then get the Cupola fitted and get this thing primed along with the tools and tow cable ready for the start of painting next weekend!
Any tips on using the AK DY Colour Modulation Kit? I've noticed that people who have used the kit have left out a couple of colours out as they felt they weren't needed?Photo update laater on guys! Ben
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2013 14:06:11 GMT -5
looks great nice neat work old chap
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Post by deafpanzer on Aug 26, 2013 15:09:53 GMT -5
Answer to your AK MC question... yes I rarely use all six bottles. I only used two darkest ones... mid and lightest one. At least I can save two bottles when I run out. They almost look alike...
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 26, 2013 15:16:18 GMT -5
Cheers Smudge! Update: Not much to show really but she's ready for priming now. I'll do the priming tomorrow so when I commence painting next week the old primer will be nice and tough/ So, the turret is finished andthe Cupola is on plus I've decided to leave the vision blocks open and tinted green like the drivers block up front. I'm leaving the tools off until I'm happy with the basecoat but seeing as it's going to be really rusted I've left the jack and bar on - I'll paint the Jack a rusty colour before basecoating and then mask off certain areas so I can expose the rust and I'll do the same with the Muffler. The wheels and return rollers are done. They cleaned up easy and didn't take long and I've found my Quickwheel Mask for Dragon Panzer III wheels! Looking forward to trying my first CM paint job on this - I'm open to any words of advice on applying AK's DY CM! Photos:Jack & Cupola in place:Cheers guys, Update next weekend, Ben
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Post by Tojo72 on Aug 26, 2013 16:12:26 GMT -5
Looks good so far Ben
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Post by wing_nut on Aug 26, 2013 16:18:41 GMT -5
Ben i gotta say I really like what you got going on there. The early panzers take a bit of a back seat to the sexy Pathers and Tigets but i do like seeing these.
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Post by wbill76 on Aug 26, 2013 20:16:55 GMT -5
Looks like you made the most of your holiday Ben! Good progress.
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 27, 2013 6:14:48 GMT -5
Ben i gotta say I really like what you got going on there. The early panzers take a bit of a back seat to the sexy Pathers and Tigets but i do like seeing these. Thanks guys! I Agree Wingy; the big lumbering Tigers and Panthers are cool and kick serious ass but there's something about these early machines that the later KT's etc just don't have. I've got a few more Pz.III variants in my stash in my stash at the minute i.e. Zimmed StuG III G and the newer SiG 33 (both Dragon) and it would be nice to get a few more of the variants built up. This kit is definately the nicest Pz.III Dragon build I've done to date - the detailing and moulding is immaculate. Ben
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Post by bbd468 on Aug 27, 2013 10:18:44 GMT -5
Answer to your AK MC question... yes I rarely use all six bottles. I only used two darkest ones... mid and lightest one. At least I can save two bottles when I run out. They almost look alike... Hey Brother Ben, ive not seen the DY CM set but like Andy said i too didnt use all 6 Grey colors on my Pz.IV.....only 4 and coulda used 3 just as easily. Love the Wheel mask template, where did you acquire it? Man, i gotta add this kit to my stash....looks awesome Ben!
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 27, 2013 13:02:33 GMT -5
Answer to your AK MC question... yes I rarely use all six bottles. I only used two darkest ones... mid and lightest one. At least I can save two bottles when I run out. They almost look alike... Hey Brother Ben, ive not seen the DY CM set but like Andy said i too didnt use all 6 Grey colors on my Pz.IV.....only 4 and coulda used 3 just as easily. Love the Wheel mask template, where did you acquire it? Man, i gotta add this kit to my stash....looks awesome Ben! Hey fellas, Well, the 'basic assembly' is complete! I've fitted the little PE aiming sight on top of the turret in front of the Cupola and have primed her with with Tamiya Rattlecan White. The Metal areas all got a brush of Mr. Hobby's 'Mr. Metal Primer' before spraying the Tamiya primer - I love the look of a wip when it's just been primed All the wheels are on cocktail sticks ready for tyre blacking then onto the mask for the centres to be sprayed. Gary - I'm shocked you haven't seen a 'Quickwheel Mask' before! I have them for the Early Tiger, Panther (non Steel-wheel obviously) and Pz.III and IV. They are a godsend! Just put your wheels on spikes, spray them with your rubber colour then allow to set for a couple of days as it has a sticky surface where you put the area to to be masked and it pulls the paint off if you do it too soon but the tackiness wears off really quick so it's only a problem for the first couple of times. I'll post a picture of them when I do the wheels This is where I get all my aftermarket stuff from in England - here's his Quickwheel stuff:www.armour-models.co.uk/products/manufacturers/quick-wheels/index.htmlI'll be asking a few more questions about this weekends painting. Do I need to aim to do it the whole lot in one go i.e. all the basecoating then the highlights etc etc? It will dry quick I know or do I need to do one part of the process then come back to it either later ot the next day? Thanks guys, Ben
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Post by bbd468 on Aug 27, 2013 13:13:14 GMT -5
Hey Ben, Had no idea the made so many wheel mask, i need to get me some of those. I just used a cheap circle template from craft store. On the Paint, i did the whole thing one setting and it went very well. I did have to thin to get the consistency i liked and i used AK thinner and 91% Iso Alcohol to thin. I seemed to really do much better with the Alcohol in it. Ive seen your works Ben and i know you can knock this CM paint job outta tha park!! Cheers, Gary
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pantherf..-Email Not Valid
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Post by pantherf..-Email Not Valid on Aug 27, 2013 13:25:28 GMT -5
I'm so glad you showed extensive views of the muffler/exhaust area. Pretty interesting and so is your build!
Jeff
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 27, 2013 17:25:58 GMT -5
Cheers guys! I was happy enough using the original circle templates but found that I couldn't get a perfect fit a lot of the time. I've only got masks for Pz.III's and IV's and Tigers/Panther - I wouldn't buy one for EVERY tank just incase! Highly recommended if you favour a type of tank and find yourself doing a lot of them. I'll get a list of CM questions that I have posted tomorrow night Ben
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 30, 2013 6:14:42 GMT -5
Hi guys, I need some help asap as I want to get the painting process spot on! I've completed assembly of my Dragon Pz.III Ausf.M (c/w Wading Muffler) and primed it last weekend so she's ready for painting this weekend. I've got AK's DY colour modulation set - I've never used these CM sets before so have some questions for those who have!
Do I need to be looking at doing the whole paint job in one go or does it have to be broken down into stages over time?
Are there any colours I need to leave out?
Am I right in assuming that when I'm applying the hightlights and shine that these need to go on small areas like angular sections of the turret and flat panels like the sun is catching various Sections.
I'm thinking that I could do the pre-shade, clean the airbrush out, apply the next shade, clean airbrush, apply next shade etc etc.
These paints dry VERY quickly so I'm assuming this whole job could be done in an afternoon?
Could someone do a very quick SBS for me?Thanks guys - I appreciate your help! Ben
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Post by Deano on Aug 30, 2013 7:02:06 GMT -5
Sorry cant help with the Modulation question but your Panzer is looking great , gotta luv the ole Panzer III's!
Deano
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Post by bbd468 on Aug 30, 2013 8:56:23 GMT -5
Hi guys, I need some help asap as I want to get the painting process spot on! I've completed assembly of my Dragon Pz.III Ausf.M (c/w Wading Muffler) and primed it last weekend so she's ready for painting this weekend. I've got AK's DY colour modulation set - I've never used these CM sets before so have some questions for those who have!
Do I need to be looking at doing the whole paint job in one go or does it have to be broken down into stages over time?
Are there any colours I need to leave out?
Am I right in assuming that when I'm applying the hightlights and shine that these need to go on small areas like angular sections of the turret and flat panels like the sun is catching various Sections.
I'm thinking that I could do the pre-shade, clean the airbrush out, apply the next shade, clean airbrush, apply next shade etc etc.
These paints dry VERY quickly so I'm assuming this whole job could be done in an afternoon?
Could someone do a very quick SBS for me?Thanks guys - I appreciate your help! Ben Hello Brother Ben, I can only say what i did on my Pz.IV for example, but it worked for me. I did the whole paint job in one setting and had no issues at all and i did just as you said...." clean the airbrush out, apply the next shade, clean airbrush, apply next shade etc etc.".....Perfect!!! I also did what you mentioned about the effects of the sun on Highlights and shadows but didnt go extreme. I also highlighted, with my AB, some tops of spots like hatches on the turret and ventalation stuff (for lack of better words). Heres the page on my Pz.Iv thread on the paint to give you a visual: modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/5025/pz-iv-f2-finished?page=6As far as the choice of colors, thats totaly up to you depending on how far ya want to go with the highlights vs. dark areas and how much you plan on weathering it. If your goin strong on washes, filters and weathering....ya might want to go a bit strong on the difference in color tones....make sense bro? I hope that helps a wee bit Ben. Good luck bro.....YOU GOT THIS!!! Cheers, Gary Edit: BTW, if ya have any issues with the paint mix with AK thinner Try adding 91% Iso Alcohol. That did the trick for me and i really like the AK paint. Was my first try.
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 30, 2013 17:51:59 GMT -5
Thanks Brother Gary The main this that was bugging me was the whole 'time' thing i.e does this have to be done over a few days or can it be done in an afternoon session. You've summed it up perfectly dude - I'll be doing this on Sunday as I have a few final 'tweaks' to make before comitting to paint. I suppose I could get the airbrush ready to go and do the pre-shade then finish off on Sunday. Thanks again Gary, Ben
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 31, 2013 13:20:07 GMT -5
Hiya lads! Okay - job done! I was pointed in the direction of AK Interactive's YouTube channel and watched a few videos on there before I went out to paint. One chap, who was doing colour modulation on a Pz.IV has a great video in two parts one there - the first part the second the turret. He wasn't using AK's CM kit but was using AK Model Air but just his own colours and lightened them by adding whites etc as he went. He made masks to allow particular exact pieces to be highlighted like panels and raised sections etc and made good use of Tamiya Tape to mask small areas so that really helped me and I made a few masks from plasticard, angular masks from plasticard and plasticard strips too. It's a fairly simple method - I know my attempt leaves a lot to be desired but it was my first attempt! I'm sticking with it this time as it just about works well and I already know that I'll be leaving out the DY 'Dark Base' on my next attempt as it's just not needed imo. The turret worked out well as did the engine deck. Next time this will be a lot easier! I do think that DY is probably going to be the hardest colour to work with and think that the Panzer Grey will be a great modulation colour. I've got a new SiG 33 (on Pz.III chassis) that will be painted as a Stalingrad vehicle in Grey. I've already got the other sets so I'm looking forward to doing that a one lot! I'm going to get the decals done tomorrow - it just needs a layer of Satin Varnish on it. I've left the airbrush set up so I'll do the varnish tomorrow morning and the decals after lunch. The Exhaust has been brushed over with some Mr. Surfacer 500 and I've brushed some light rust over it - I'll do the rust treatment later. I've got to go back and sort the wheels and tools too. Like I say - it's not brilliant but for a first attempt I'm happy with it. The photos don't do it justice tbh:I hope you like her guys, All comments very welcome, Update tomorrow! Ben
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AndyArgent.
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Post by AndyArgent. on Aug 31, 2013 18:00:46 GMT -5
Ben you have done a good job for your first attempt at this and it isn't as easy as it looks on the box.One thing to remember is where you would normally see the high and low lights.lighter areas to the top of panels and darker ones to the bottom.
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Aug 31, 2013 18:40:43 GMT -5
Ben you have done a good job for your first attempt at this and it isn't as easy as it looks on the box.One thing to remember is where you would normally see the high and low lights.lighter areas to the top of panels and darker ones to the bottom. Darn right it isn't that easy Andy! Like you say, for a first attempt I'm happy with her. I'm going back tomorrow with the DY Shine to pick out some highpoints etc and slap the decals on. I'm looking forward to trying the Grey CM! Thanks buddy, Ben
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Post by TRM on Aug 31, 2013 18:47:41 GMT -5
You did a fine job there Ben!! Looking forward to the highlights!! All of this will blend really well with a decent filter and/or wash!!
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Post by Deano on Aug 31, 2013 21:26:00 GMT -5
Well done Bensky , not easy that modulation business.
Deano
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Sept 1, 2013 6:31:57 GMT -5
Thanks TRM & Deano, Damn right it's not easy! Like I've said I think I'll find (after trying all the colours types out) that DY is probably the hardest colour to modulate well. I'm not making excuses but I think a grey can be be taken to both extremes - very light and very dark where the Dunkelgelb has to kept pretty even. Tbh it's not quite finished. I thought it was but Andy Leffler, who's obviously got this technique down to a tee, has now said to take a small brush (5/0 or similar) and use the lightest shade which is DY shine and touch up all the hinges, raised areas - anything. I hope that when the mild filters go on it it will pull it all together a bit more but for a first attempt I'm really pleased with it. Looking at other peoples attempts it seems the way to really set it off is to use the sidewalls and cast a shadow starting from the bottom getting lighter as it raises to the top. Obviously there's not a massive sidewall on this little thing so the technique should really lend itself to Panthers and Tigers. My next build is that huge slab-sided SiG which I'll try the grey kit on. I'm going to paint those little highlights now then add the Satin coats and decals later. Thanks for taking an interest guys - much appreciated Update tonight (UK time) Ben
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