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Post by wbill76 on Jan 3, 2014 15:44:04 GMT -5
Regarding the mufflers Ben, these were delivered in red oxide primer if they were painted at all, even 'new' vehicles at the start of the war in color photos show the distinctive rust-red coloration as a result. So I wouldn't worry about it in that regard. The normal heat/moisture variances of a running engine exhaust would oxidize the metal quickly, creating depth/variation in their 'look' very early on in their lifespans. HTH!
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Jan 4, 2014 5:39:14 GMT -5
Regarding the mufflers Ben, these were delivered in red oxide primer if they were painted at all, even 'new' vehicles at the start of the war in color photos show the distinctive rust-red coloration as a result. So I wouldn't worry about it in that regard. The normal heat/moisture variances of a running engine exhaust would oxidize the metal quickly, creating depth/variation in their 'look' very early on in their lifespans. HTH! Cheers Wingy and Bill, Bill: I'll stick to plan A then and just use some rusty pigments to vary the tone a bit. Ceneers guys, Ben
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2014 8:55:37 GMT -5
Okay, but only one day Ben
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Jan 4, 2014 10:50:42 GMT -5
Hiya Lads! Well - I'm calling her complete - make sure you read the blurb before viewing the photos I know that those of you who are familiar with my previous builds will be expecting a mud clogged, beaten and battered old hulk of junk but I've done as I said and kept it relatively tidy and totally intact as I really lied the modulated basecoat and didn't want to hide it under a load of streaking and washes/pigment etc. etc. All I had left to do today was the light chipping (I used Tamiya Chrome Silver and Vallejo DY Shine from their CM set). I tried to limit the chips to areas of activity i.e. where the crew would have clambered around and around the Cupola and Cupoloa Hatched as they'd have seen a fair bit of use. I ended up brushing on a mix of MIG Pigments around the lower hull wall behind the running gear and on the suspension etc and used a pipette to add a few drops of Fixer to hold it all. Pigmnets used were Europe Dust, Brick Dust and a topping of Gulf War sand to add some contrast. AK's Panzer Grey Filter and Streaking grimes Panzer Grey and rust streaks were brushed onto the turret roof, vertical sides and frontal armour - I got it just right I think. The Archer Dry Transfer Aerial Recognition Swastika on tinfoil flag was added to cover the moulded tow cable on the rear deck and fixed with a couple of drops of cement. Just a quick spray of Testors dullcoate and some additional lightly dry-brushed pigments all over to set the vehicle in Russia mid Summer 1941. I'm getting more into my photography a bit now so I used some 'Cream' backing paper for most of the shots. Godfather Dave is on holiday at the minute so when he gets back he's coming back to show me how to get the very best out of my Camera which is all singing and dancing but it's new to me so I'm using it in auto mode at the minute which chucks it straight into one of the Macro modes and shuts the flash off - I'm taking better photos now than ever I used the camera stand today but not my new light box as I'm waiting for the correct reflector lamps (bulbs) to be delivered as I want daylight ones and it only came with standard ones. I set the light box up last night and only then did I notice that the 4 colour backdrop sheets were folded so they need ironing and hanging up in the wardrobe - not folding! I'm pleased with the outcome tbh. Here we go: One of my favourite builds so far - Dragon's Pz.Kpfw.III (5cm) Ausf.H (Sd.Kfz.141 Early Production) Kit# 6641: Thanks for following guys! I've REALLY enjoyed blogging this little Pz.III build and have really appreciated everyones input along the way. Watch out now as I'm starting my new build tomorrow - I'm still undecided but it's a toss-up between My new Trumpeter 38(t) and my recently acquired Dragon King Tiger. I'm open to suggestions! If anyone has any good constructive feedback for me on this Pz.III build I'd love to see it! Cheers guys, Ben
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craigcole20b.
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Post by craigcole20b. on Jan 4, 2014 19:18:28 GMT -5
Great job Ben looks really good
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Post by bbd468 on Jan 4, 2014 19:21:54 GMT -5
Hey brother Ben, Pz. looks real good man. The flag looks awesome on there too bro. Well done.
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Post by richardcraig-Email Not Valid on Jan 4, 2014 22:18:03 GMT -5
Hi Ben ... Great job ... I just got my late H and I should start it soon .. AND it's your fault!! Thanks!:-) really !lol
Rick
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Post by deafpanzer on Jan 4, 2014 22:23:35 GMT -5
Really like the flag!!! Did you say you got it from Archer?
Great work on your Panzer III!
What's next? My vote is 38(t)!
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Jan 5, 2014 6:35:06 GMT -5
Really like the flag!!! Did you say you got it from Archer? Great work on your Panzer III! What's next? My vote is 38(t)! Cheers guys - glad you like her! Man I really need to get my figure painting skills sorted - this build badly needs a figure! Send me one please Andy Andy: Flag directly from Archer in the USA - just have a search around their Dry TRansfer air recognition flags. Here's how to make them! www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WwTq0G4kx4 Make sure you crease it all up so it takes on a nice 'crumpled fabric' appearance. You can literally screw these things up into a little ball then straighten them out again and a touch of cement holds them fine. As for the next build - it will be the 38(t) Next question, do you want Panzer Grey or the later scheme of a DY basecoat with red/brown thin random stripes?Cheers fellas, Ben
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Post by deafpanzer on Jan 5, 2014 10:51:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the great link! That shop Archer was only a mile or two from my second house when I lived in NC... glad I moved or I would have bought every set at their shop. LOL
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Post by wbill76 on Jan 5, 2014 12:16:47 GMT -5
Probably one of your best finishes yet Ben! A few small constructive comments for you to consider on your next build since you asked for them. 1) Don't use silver or steel for chipping. Remember these vehicles were primered in Red Oxide and chips down to the bare steel would be rare...and if they did, the steel would show as oxidized and not 'shiny'. Use a dark brown or umber color for that to achieve something more realistic looking. If you're looking to show highlights on a monotone scheme, you can lighten the base-color and dry-brush instead to create a more subtle but multi-layered effect. 2) Try to airbrush your coats in thinner/lighter coats/passes to avoid clogging up your PE intake screens. Single heavy/wet passes are what causes the paint to 'catch' in the mesh pattern and clog it up. Either that or paint your screens off your vehicle and install them later. I know you're aware of the issue from previous posts, this may help avoid that problem down the road. It will improve the look of the finished builds immensely. You're continuing to 'stretch your legs' with each build and it shows in the different techniques you're gaining in your arsenal. Keep it up buddy!
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Jan 5, 2014 13:38:42 GMT -5
Probably one of your best finishes yet Ben! A few small constructive comments for you to consider on your next build since you asked for them. 1) Don't use silver or steel for chipping. Remember these vehicles were primered in Red Oxide and chips down to the bare steel would be rare...and if they did, the steel would show as oxidized and not 'shiny'. Use a dark brown or umber color for that to achieve something more realistic looking. If you're looking to show highlights on a monotone scheme, you can lighten the base-color and dry-brush instead to create a more subtle but multi-layered effect. 2) Try to airbrush your coats in thinner/lighter coats/passes to avoid clogging up your PE intake screens. Single heavy/wet passes are what causes the paint to 'catch' in the mesh pattern and clog it up. Either that or paint your screens off your vehicle and install them later. I know you're aware of the issue from previous posts, this may help avoid that problem down the road. It will improve the look of the finished builds immensely. You're continuing to 'stretch your legs' with each build and it shows in the different techniques you're gaining in your arsenal. Keep it up buddy! Thanks Bill, These 'constructive comment' type posts are exactly what I need - particulary re the chipping colour to use. I always find Grey a tricky colour to chip compared to DY. I feel everything is slowly getting better and I'm definately getting a lot more confident I'm starting my new build tomorrow - Trumpeter's 38(t) which is a really nice loking kit and a lot cheaper than I'm used to as I'm obviously a big Dragon fan. It was seeing Pete's (Smudge) build of the same kit that made me want to give it a go. I attempted to build Dragon's Marder III Befehls a couple of years back and recall being totally beaten by it! I kept all the Magic Tracks and running gear PLUS the huge PE Fret which means I can pimp the Trumpeter kit a bit, especially by using the Dragon tools and clamps and using the PE Grouser Box in place of the Trumpy plastic job. There's two schemes - one a box art standard Pz. Grey and the other is a later war DY base with fine Red/Brown and Green random stripes. I like that one? What sort of year would the DY/colour scheme put that tank into? Cheers guys, Ben
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Post by wbill76 on Jan 5, 2014 20:51:01 GMT -5
DY scheme would put it into 1943 Ben, DY was standardized in Feb 1943 and vehicles already in Pz Gray were repainted in the field when the orders came down and paint stocks were issued. By summer '43 they would've all been repainted to comply with the new schemes. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one!
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Post by wing_nut on Jan 5, 2014 21:06:09 GMT -5
I love it. As I said before, a challenge with a single color scheme and in IMHO gray being together than DY. Nice One thing caught my eye though... as soon as the driver put sit in gear that flag is gone. It should be tied down somehow. Looking forward to the 38(t). i love that little chassis. And so did the Germans
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Jan 6, 2014 9:17:00 GMT -5
I love it. As I said before, a challenge with a single color scheme and in IMHO gray being together than DY. Nice One thing caught my eye though... as soon as the driver put sit in gear that flag is gone. It should be tied down somehow. Looking forward to the 38(t). i love that little chassis. And so did the Germans Dammit Wingy! I was waiting for someone to mention about the flag. I had it all worked out too - I have some TINY metal rings and I was going to punch a little hole in each corner, mount the rings and use some Dental Floss to make a series of tie downs (or be lazy and put some heavy looking pieces of whatever on the corners to act as a hold-down). I actually did forget that last little touch - that and clearing out the rest of the air intake PE grills. I also want to tone down the shiny chips ala wbill's observation. Godfather Dave is away for a few weeks and he always does my 'completed build' photos so I'll ensure these little important things are addressed before the Godfather takes his photos and I'll post them up too AND see if Dicky will let me swap my current MoM photos with Dave's which are always killer. Onto the 38(t) we go! It's a great chassis I agree - in particular there a only 8 huge one-piece roadwheels that are a treat to weather. Ben
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2014 15:08:17 GMT -5
nice job on ze panzer mate like the effects on the panzer grey. enjoy that 38t!!
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Post by bullardino on Jan 6, 2014 16:04:40 GMT -5
Great result on the Pz III
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Post by Deano on Jan 6, 2014 16:06:58 GMT -5
Looks great Ben , very well done Panzer III
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Tojo72
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Nov 14, 2012 19:46:28 GMT -5
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Post by Tojo72 on Jan 6, 2014 16:08:17 GMT -5
Another nice one for the display case Ben
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Post by ceresvesta. on Jan 6, 2014 17:30:47 GMT -5
Well, someone had some time off during the holidays! Ditto what Bill said, you really leveled up Ben. Nice crisp build and you nailed that finish job with the 10 pound hammer. BANG! Looove it. PZIII and now 38(t) I am in!
Congrats bro.
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Hinksy
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Post by Hinksy on Jan 7, 2014 11:16:39 GMT -5
Awww Shucks guys! I'm blushing now Thanks for the great feedback! I'm really proud of this one. I've got 3 x Panzer III's - one a Tamiya 'N' with the Leningrad Winter Scheme, The other 2 being a Dagon 'M' with Wading Muffler and then this early 'H'. Then there are the StuG III's - a 1/48 Tamiya StuG III G, the cracking Tamiya StuG III B and the Dragon Ausf. A and Cyber Hobby Ausf. C/D. I've got their recently released Zimmed StuG III G in the stash. That's probably going to be my 'big build' this year as it has a nice interior and I'm really going to go to town on that one with some Friuls, a base and a chunk of stowage! I've also got the Sig.33 on the Pz.III chassis (Dragons newer version) so I reckon with them built I'll have a nice mix of Pz.III chassis variant vehicles I've got a Pz.IV G (Kharkov) in the stash and I'll build a StuG IV at some point but at present I fancy building a couple of 38(t) based vehicles. The 38(t) itself and a newer Marder - I only have my old original attempt in the cabinet which turned out ok but I'd like another crack at one now my skills have improved. I have the Tamiya early Marder III in the stash with Friuls so that's the 'new' Marder III sorted plus my next build, the Trumpeter 38(t) which I'm starting tomorrow. Thanks again guys, New blog on it's way! Ben
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