ACADEMY HETZER - Complete & Whitewashed! (04/03/14)

[Hinksy]

Feb 16, 2014 15:50:22 GMT -5 robbo said:

Got to say mate, the tow cable looks by far better where it is now, it looked like it was going ping off the way it was on before

Cheers guys,

Robbo: It's only in a temporary place - it will be mounted on the rear hull wall onder the exhaust after painting mate. The thing it was under before before is the Bracket that holds the spare track links in place but they aren't ready yet

Panther: As this is an early one I'll be painting it plain DY but there are options for a basic Ambush scheme. I'm no expert but I usually see the later ones in the Ambush scheme but I've seen plenty of them done in DY too.

Vhers fellas,

Ben

[Tojo72]

The little guy is looking good

[Hinksy]

Feb 17, 2014 9:06:40 GMT -5 Tojo72 said:

The little guy is looking good

Hey Tojo - always nice to see you've dropped by

It's early days in the build yet but it's hard to really go wrong with an Academy Hetzer! Another week and she should be looking

If I just git this one done and outta the way then it's on to the Marders which I love! I'm especially looking forward to having a crack at building the Marder III M again!

Cheers dude,

Ben

[wbill76]

Regarding your question on the remote MG station Ben, there wasn't a way for them to mount a 'normal' MG34 up there...either the mount would be there with the remote MG or it would be plugged with no mount...only the very early Hetzers (April 1944 production, ~20 vehicles) were delivered without the remote MGs due to production interruptions.

[Hinksy]

Feb 17, 2014 21:08:37 GMT -5 wbill76 said:

Regarding your question on the remote MG station Ben, there wasn't a way for them to mount a 'normal' MG34 up there...either the mount would be there with the remote MG or it would be plugged with no mount...only the very early Hetzers (April 1944 production, ~20 vehicles) were delivered without the remote MGs due to production interruptions.

That's cool Bill thanks

What if the MG gunner was just laying prone on the roof shooting a belt fed '34 - i.e. if the Hetzer was stationary? in an 'ambush' style position?

Ben

[wbill76]

Feb 18, 2014 7:15:34 GMT -5 Hinksy said:

Feb 17, 2014 21:08:37 GMT -5 wbill76 said:

Regarding your question on the remote MG station Ben, there wasn't a way for them to mount a 'normal' MG34 up there...either the mount would be there with the remote MG or it would be plugged with no mount...only the very early Hetzers (April 1944 production, ~20 vehicles) were delivered without the remote MGs due to production interruptions.

That's cool Bill thanks

What if the MG gunner was just laying prone on the roof shooting a belt fed '34 - i.e. if the Hetzer was stationary? in an 'ambush' style position?

Ben

That would seem pretty odd to me...the Hetzer roof isn't all that spacious to begin with so if you start playing with a 'standard' MG34 with a bipod and a box or belt of ammo I think you're going to find there isn't enough real estate up there to get it done without interfering with other key things like the gunner's sight...and it wouldn't be very plausible IMHO, even on a knocked-out Hetzer you wouldn't want to be on top in an exposed circumstance like that when you could have more protection on the ground.

[dupes]

Truckin' right along! I'm a sucker for a good collection (heck, that's what half of my kit purchases are motivated by), so I can't WAIT to see a group shot of all of your 38(t)s.

[Deleted]

Feb 18, 2014 13:35:06 GMT -5 wbill76 said:

Feb 18, 2014 7:15:34 GMT -5 Hinksy said:

That's cool Bill thanks

What if the MG gunner was just laying prone on the roof shooting a belt fed '34 - i.e. if the Hetzer was stationary? in an 'ambush' style position?

Ben

That would seem pretty odd to me...the Hetzer roof isn't all that spacious to begin with so if you start playing with a 'standard' MG34 with a bipod and a box or belt of ammo I think you're going to find there isn't enough real estate up there to get it done without interfering with other key things like the gunner's sight...and it wouldn't be very plausible IMHO, even on a knocked-out Hetzer you wouldn't want to be on top in an exposed circumstance like that when you could have more protection on the ground.

Agree, I don't think MG gunners would hang around on top of Hetzers, I think they had a reputation for going 'pop' very easily, armour plates splitting apart, and the whole thing just falling apart, but not sure tbh.

I seem to remember there were some Czech resistance Hetzers were they just removed the main gun, put a blanking plate over the gun mantlet and then just mounted a German MG into that plate, in effect turning the little Hetzer into a mobile MG platform, with the MG fired from inside, probably done due to having a complete lack of any ammunition for the main gun, so making it pointless to keep.

[armorguy]

WOW THAT'S F A S T !!!

I like what I see, looking forward to the paintwork !

[Hinksy]

Cheers for the input re the MG on the roof lads - I'm not a great figure painter anyway so it would probably look terrible ;(

Something for the future maybe when all my work is appearing in the magazines and I have my my own range of DVD's too, eh! LOL!

It is going fast but like I said before there's nothing to a Hetzer build (unless you build a Dragon or Tristar version with full internals!

I'll have her done by next weekend and then I think I'll build a Marder III!

Ben

[Hinksy]

Hi fellas,

Made some progress on the Hetzer this week - not enough worth posting about until today though!

I've decided that I'm going to keep the Friuls for a bigger and better build. This is more of a 'gap-filler'. This Hetzer will still get the best of my attentions but the two Marder III's I plan on building Particularly the Marder III M) will really be worthy of Friuls as they can be seen. Ive decided to use the kit tracks and fit the track Shurzen so the top run can be seen - if they look good I'll probably leave a panel or two missing or VERY damaged. All plastic kit grab-handles have been replaced with suitable wire handles.

I've got a mini base too and at 7" x 5" it will fit nicely into the cabinet and a really snowy/mucky base will hide any crappy track

The Hetzer is primed and ready for paint. I haven't decided if I'm going to go straight for plain DY with a real splattery, messy look with pre-shading and fancy colour modulation or more of a 'solid' DY with very distressed w/wash? I'm hoping to get some of the new 'Washable White' from Mig's new 'Ammo' range.

I always like these Schurzen so everything from the face of the Shurzen, up the sides and all over and down will be painted with Vallejo and weathered really nicely and under that i.e. the running gear & The lower hull walls on each side behind the roadwheels will be painted with a simple Tamiya DY Spray as will the wheel hubs - the wheel rubbers will be sprayed on first with Tamiya Spray German Grey. All quick and easy and very mucky!

I'll also spray the link and length tracks on the sprue using Tamiya Spray Black. A spray of varnish or Future over them whilst also on the sprues will stop the glue damaging the paint so they should glue together nicely.











Thanks for looking guys - Update asap.

Ben

[bbd468]

WOW!!! Where tha Ferk have i been....Ben! You do not mess about brother, great build and im lookin forward to the paint. Im bookmarked now!

[detailfreak]

lookin very smart in primer Ben.

[deafpanzer]

Looking great primed... can't wait to see it painted next!

[bullardino]

A fine job and a very fast one either

[Hinksy]

Feb 21, 2014 9:17:34 GMT -5 bullardino said:

A fine job and a very fast one either

Cheers for the comments guys

This is the last of the quick builds for a while Luis as the Marder III's are up next and they'll need a bit more detail, particularly in the Fighting Compartment area! I won't be rushing that!

I have TWO questions for you (if you can help)

QUESTION ONE) EFFECTIVE THINNING OF VALLEJO MODEL AIR

Basically, what should I use for thinning VALLEJO MODEL AIR? I also don't know what ratio? I've seen a video on youtube where the guy uses 5 'drops' of Model Air thinned with 3 'drops' of the milky Thinner Medium? Is this right?

i)Water (normal or distilled)

ii) Vallejo 71.061 Airbrush Thinner (looks like a clear liquid with low odour)

iii) Vallejo 70.524 Thinner Medium in a Dropper Bottle (Milky White like their Varnishes - little/no odour)

iv) Tamiya Thinner
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

QUESTION TWO) POTENTIAL HAIRSPRAY WHITEWASH - BEST ACRYLIC WHITE PAINT TO USE FOR A DISTRESSED W/WASH

I might decide on a distressed whitewash finish over a basic DY basecoat i.e. nothing fancy

I'm going to try and get some Mig 'AMMO' Washable White to make life easier see link, it looks brilliant www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzLJ_13AOFo

If I decide to use Future and the hairspray method, which white is best for making a distressed w/wash?

i) Vallejo Model Air White

ii)Vallejo Model Colour White

iii) Tamiya XF-2 Flat White

1v) Tamiya X-2 White

I hope you can help guys - I'll be basecoating tomorrow!

All input will be MASSIVELY appreciated!

Ben

[bullardino]

Re thinning vallejo air, I have no experience in thinning vallejo air, although I know they should be ready for airbrushing...

Re white for hairspray techniques, I've always used only tamiya paints with the hairspray and I've heard that they are the best for it.

[bbd468]

Feb 21, 2014 11:33:55 GMT -5 bullardino said:

Re thinning vallejo air, I have no experience in thinning vallejo air, although I know they should be ready for airbrushing...

Re white for hairspray techniques, I've always used only tamiya paints with the hairspray and I've heard that they are the best for it.

Thats pretty much what i would say Ben.

[Hinksy]

Feb 21, 2014 11:39:16 GMT -5 bbd468 said:

Feb 21, 2014 11:33:55 GMT -5 bullardino said:

Re thinning vallejo air, I have no experience in thinning vallejo air, although I know they should be ready for airbrushing...

Re white for hairspray techniques, I've always used only tamiya paints with the hairspray and I've heard that they are the best for it.

Thats pretty much what i would say Ben.

Yup - You'd think so, wouldn't you?

Apparently it benefits from being lightly thinned to assist in preventing clogging and helping airbrushability and it is supposed to airbrush better generally when thinned?

I've thought of another question, too

IF I decide to do a worn whitewash after I've put the basecoat down am I right in assuming that a layer of varnish needs to be put over the basecoat prior to the hairspray? Does in need to be glossy or satin or Flat - is Future better to use?

I've found this VERY handy site which covers the H/S method questions modelarmour.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1524:hairspray-whitewash&catid=35:build-features&Itemid=59 but if you have anything to add please, fire away!

I'm sorry for all the questions guys but I haven't tried the hairspray method in over 2.5 years! Your help and advise is appreciated massively

Ben

[bbd468]

Ben, Ive used AK and Lifecolor. Both are said to be ready straight from the bottle for AB use. In my experience with them...thats not the case. i still had to thin them to get the performance i needed. Lifecolor thinner worked ok for their paint, but 91% iso alcohol worked wonders for the AK paint. its own brand thinner....not so much. Tamiya thinned with X-20A or Alcohol is what i used to thin the Tamiya for White Wash. You do need to seal the base coat before you do the w/w. It works over Future or a smooth satin flat.

Dude, never worry about asking questions, thats what were here for....to learn and asking questions and getting a range of answers is how i learned as well. never hesitate bro.

[JimD]

Hinsky, I've found that if I need to thin the Model Air line (which SUPPOSEDLY doesn't need it) that Future actually works best. I've used distilled water and windshield washing fluid too with success, but with those it's a delicate balance because one drop too far and it will run like crazy. With Future you can actually push it pretty far...much further than you should need to for armor.

[Hinksy]

Thanks fellas!

Gary - I know you guys don't mind helping me out but you know me - I'm English so I'm really, really polite

Jimmy - thanks for your input fella I have some Future (Klear) but have NEVER used it! I always add a few drops of Vallejo Gloss Varnish to the paint in the airbrush cup as that makes a big difference to the paint and how it sets - it always set's mega hard with a smoooooth finish!

I won't try the Future option (yet) as I'll need to look into that some more.

I've made my decision - seeing as I have Tamiya's Mid Production Hetzer in the Cabinet with a DY basecoat and worn w/wash finish I'm going to go for a pre-shade, Colour Modulated DY basecoat - hopefully it should look killer or at least 'very good' I'll be using my AK Dunkelgelb Colour Modulation set - I'll be using #1 shadow for the pre-shading lines, #3 a very light coat of DY Base, #4 a very light coat of #4 DY Light Base and #4 combined with #5 DY High Light to start the modulating finishing with #5 on it's own to really pick out the high points. The final colour #6 is DY Shine and I'll probably stick to brushing that onto small raised areas and drydrushing etc to make things go 'pop'!

IMO colour #2 in the set DY Dark Base is a layer too many and will kill my pre-shade if I'm not careful. I hated the colour of it on my last completed build, the Trumpeter 38(t).

If I'm not happy with the results I'll be going for plan B which means reaching for the can of Hairspray!

Does it make any difference if I use light hold, normal, or MEGA hold Hairspray (just out-of-interest)?

Cheers guys - wish me luck!

Ben

[Deleted]

Hey Ben, You have a lot to try out, enjoy!
I personally don't use pre shading anymore since I use that color modulation because the shading effect disappear for a great deal when you put more than one color over it like with cammo and CM or a thicker layer of paint on some places.
For the hairspray technique I put a layer of gloss tamiya varnish over the base color. tamiya paint gives a good result, better than the other brands. The best is to try out some hairsprays because they react all different, Wella hard hold nr 3 hairspray gives the best result for me. ( looks like an advertisement for beauty products in a womans magazine  ) like here
 

Eddy

[Hinksy]

Feb 22, 2014 4:48:39 GMT -5 @eddy said:

Hey Ben, You have a lot to try out, enjoy!
I personally don't use pre shading anymore since I use that color modulation because the shading effect disappear for a great deal when you put more than one color over it like with cammo and CM or a thicker layer of paint on some places.
For the hairspray technique I put a layer of gloss tamiya varnish over the base color. tamiya paint gives a good result, better than the other brands. The best is to try out some hairsprays because they react all different, Wella hard hold nr 3 hairspray gives the best result for me. ( looks like an advertisement for beauty products in a womans magazine  ) like here
 
Eddy

Hi guys and thanks for the input Eddy - I'll see what H/S my Mum has if I need it!

Funny you should mention about the pre-shade thing. I watched a DVD last night where they pre-shaded everything and by the time the CM was done it was just totally lost. The one thing that did catch my eye was a heavy black pre-shade starting under the fenders against the lower hull wall and moving down and out about halfway - the guy painted normally over that and the way he did it gave an excellent illusion of the more of the lower hull that is visible as it moves down toward the ground is brighter - I'm sure this is simple stuff to a lot of you but new to me.

Right - make sure you read this before looking at the photos so it makes sense! I was looking at some of my paints last night and as all of my DY builds are either painted with my usual Tamiya recipe or more recently with AK's DY CM kit I was thinking about trying to make a new shade - I mean, there's no way all these machines would have got through the war, exposed to the elements and being supplied paint shades from different factories? The colours must have varied a fair old bit? One for wbill here maybe?

Anyway, looking at the CM kit it's simply a few bottles of a similar shade getting progressively lighter finishing with a 'shine' tone to make things 'pop'.

In amongst my model air shades (I'm phasing out my Tamiya stock apart from the metallic and transparent shades) to replace them with Model Air and Model Colour - or whatever Mig brings out in his new Ammo range.

I found 5 shades that would work perfectly together - what do you think? I've listed them in order of application:

1)  71.025 Dark Yellow
ii)  71.025 Light Brown
ii)  71.028 Sand Yellow
iii) 71.075 Sand
iv) 71.001 White (to use to lighten the sand shade - the final 'shine' shade if you will)?  No's 71.025  & 71.028 are almost identical so I'll omit one of them.

Here we go - very poor lighting but you get the idea:



I'll Lay down the black base on the side hull walls etc followed by an all-over light coat of Dark Yellow, a light coat of either Light Brown or Sand Yellow followed by Sand as the Highlight shade? I can add white to the sand to apply via a brush on areas of high wear and raised areas?

I reckon this would make a really cool shade and I'm going to give it a go tomorrow. When these colours are put next to each other it's as if they were meant to make a up a CM set If you look at my original post on this thread and look at the photo of the box art from the kit these colours would give a VERY similar, but probably a bit lighter shade as the Box Art Hetzer itself.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this but I'm confident it will work well. If it doesn't it's W/wash time.

I also found some Mig "WINTER CAMOUFLAGE WASH" - remember their original big 75ml bottles that they sell their Thinner for Washes in and Rainmarks and Pigment fixer - it's one of them (I need to do a stock check)! I was thinking I could apply this around fittings and fender edges to show a very subtle hint of an old whitewash - I always like to add a splash of colour here and there too.



Sorry to go on but I'm in a great mood today (yes, the Sun is Shining AND it's NOT raining) - I've been waaay too busy today and haven't been home long so we'll have to wait until tomorrow to see the results! I need the natural light that I get in the workshop to airbrush properly as the electric lighting is poor and I'll be losing tha natural light soon.

All input is mega appreciated - I'm looking forward to trying these colours out!

Enjoy your Weekends fellas!

Ben

[deafpanzer]

Am so sorry I was not anywhere near my laptop until just now but managed to answer your questions via Facebook from my iPhone. LOL Hope you have enough info you need to do next?

Never saw or used that MIG camo wash. Looks pretty interesting! I would practice on the bottom of hull first just to make sure... or the lower hulls? Go little and build up at a time so that way you won't go overboard. OK lad? Oops I meant to say buddy! LOL

[Hinksy]

Feb 22, 2014 22:42:42 GMT -5 deafpanzer said:

Am so sorry I was not anywhere near my laptop until just now but managed to answer your questions via Facebook from my iPhone. LOL Hope you have enough info you need to do next?

Never saw or used that MIG camo wash. Looks pretty interesting! I would practice on the bottom of hull first just to make sure... or the lower hulls? Go little and build up at a time so that way you won't go overboard. OK lad? Oops I meant to say buddy! LOL

Cheers Andy,

I'm about to go out with the airbrush now so we'll see what I can do!

Ben

[Hinksy]

Hi guys,

Well, it has a basecoat. It didn't come out out anywhere near as well as I'd hoped but it's fine for the job in hand as I placed an order for some 'washable white' from the Ammo range last night so this Hetzer's getting it's winter cammo put on!

Dad has taken the camera out so I can't post a photo but I'm sure you can imagine how she looks

I'll feedback on this washable white stuff when it comes, in the meantime I'll sort the decals and varnish.

Cheers guys,

Ben

[Hinksy]

Hiya fellas,

A very quick update on the Hetzer as I've just been told I'm needed by Dad over at farm where he's Gamekeeper in about 15 mins whilst they get the tractor and tow cables - something to do with a swollen river and a crazed bullock! Telephone signal was awful - I can't wait to find out!

Anyway, basecoat is on - it has been since Sunday but I hadn't posted any photos. It didn't come out as I'd hoped and looks very plain and basic so I decided to go with the winter w/wash cammo

Good job as my new Mig 'AMMO' Washable White for this scheme arrived today - I'll be doing the white wash over the weekend and before that I have to paint the rubber portions of them big old roadwheels. I'm at least going to give the Link & Length kit tracks a go so I can save my Friuls. I dont mind doing L&L tracks. Cleanup is minimal. I've painted them black/Grey on the sprue and have varnished them to seal so the glue won't play havoc with the paint. It it goes South I've got my back-up Friuls so no bother there.

Decals are on - two Balkenreuz is all.

She's looking pretty cool as it goes and this washable white stuff looks great  www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzLJ_13AOFo

One Question: Do you think this washable white would work best on a matt surface? I'm inclined to think that it would all come sliding off in big chunks if I put it onto the very glossy coat it has right now?





Here's everything - Schurzen ready to go along with the wheels on spikes in the rear and Track links up front. Should be fun!





Thanks for looking guys,

All comments welcome - remember she's still very much a wip at the minute!

Ben

[bbd468]

Hiya Brother Ben,

Fella, i dont have a clue how those products that you just got work. Maybe Todd, Rob, Bill or the like will chime in. Someone will know im sure.

What mix/brand of DY did you choose? Seems a bit darkish....or could just be the lighting.

Im looking foward to see how it all works out as this is new product to me too.

Lookin fine though bro!

Gary

[Hinksy]

Feb 27, 2014 12:02:26 GMT -5 bbd468 said:

Hiya Brother Ben,

Fella, i dont have a clue how those products that you just got work. Maybe Todd, Rob, Bill or the like will chime in. Someone will know im sure.

What mix/brand of DY did you choose? Seems a bit darkish....or could just be the lighting.

Im looking foward to see how it all works out as this is new product to me too.

Lookin fine though bro!

Gary

Cheers brother Gary,

First off - yup, the lighting was terrible. It was only just a quick few camera phone photos and I had to close the curtains as the sunshine was pouring into my room!

The DY shade is pretty good as it goes - here's the washable white video

www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzLJ_13AOFo

Hope this helps!

Ben