Post by Foenetik on Jul 17, 2014 10:25:18 GMT -5
Since the Aerosan is done, ill be starting back up the MP4/4 w/ Top Studio Detail Kit.
Keep in mind this whole first part is off an existing post so it may reference me waiting for stuff but i have everything now, its just too much to edit.. This doesnt include any non picture posts either but the pics will tell the story of my journey (Good and Bad)
So I decided to go in way over my head and attempt a top studio build (actually two, bought the YZR-M1 Kit, that's next).
For those that don't know, Top Studio makes a Super Detail Up kit for the base model. Basically it makes it very realistic and its quite the build. The base model only has 3 Sprues worth of parts so the detail kit replaces most of it, and adds a ton more. I couldn't find any builds on youtube or the web so I thought id document it here. I'm taking pictures along the way to point out most of the major steps. Expect lots of pics. Ill do my best to explain how I did the more difficult parts.
I'm using Tamiya #89719 and Top Studio #MD29011
Here is my last order of stuff for these next two builds. I think I have enough colors?
Here is the model in box stock form:
This first set of pics is lacking on before pictures because I wasn't sure if I was going to document it or not so I apologize. I will be more thorough going forward.
First step is to modify the stock parts. These parts are all parts that needed something cut off of them. Either replaced by resin parts or photo etch. Some wont be used till later, but I want to mod everything before I get into the top studio parts.
Clear Light cut down. It had a post on the back that has to be cut off and sanded flat
In order to sand it flat I put it in my pin vise. Next I need to drill a hole in the back when I get my bits tomorrow.
Intercoolers. Here I cut the end tanks off one side. Top studio includes new ones. I used an exacto and then sanded them flat.
Exterior panels need to be cut on panel line. The part with detail is replaced by PE parts
Suspension piece needs to be cut into 3 pieces, It was a full triangle to begin with.
Where to cut the top
Where to cut bottom, I cut right in the center of the circle so there is enough material to drill later
This is where the ecu was molded into the cockpit. it had to be cut out and sanded flat
Engine
There was a tall hood on each side on the front. it had to be removed (sorry no pics of before)
On the valve cover there was a bracket that protruded out. Had to be removed. Basically I turned it over and cut it with exacto from the back and then sanded it level.
while waiting for my parts to come in, did some more of the stock part prep.
Drilling out the wheels to 3mm (1mm deep)
Drilling out this box for an AN fitting
And the fun one, so I had to use a .4mm drill bit, to drill these 4 wire holes on center. ill let the pictures do the talking....
This is the size of the drill bit, that's a normal size bic pen...
These are the 3 holes on each side I had to get on center for spark plug wires.. imagine how fun that was, the bit bends with the slightest pressure.
Close-up of 1st hole ( "easier" cause I can come from side)
Rest of holes (had to come down at an angle over previous coil)
Small Update:
Removing the exhaust air dams to use PE parts
Stock:
Removed:
Got my styrene sheet in and decided to do some of the body work. Keep in mind ive never used putty nor done anything other than paint or weather a car. this was all new.
So had to take the stock body and add some styrene to make smaller holes, like the real car. Cutting the pieces was easy enough, but I couldn't really get them to line up so I figured out to add bracing cause I calipered the cockpit before I ordered styrene and got the exact size. so now the bracing makes it flush! woo
Before pics of holes to be filled...
This one I had to add a whole piece
Here Is the bracing to make the pieces flush
Here is my terrible putty job. like I said first time, and it said to spread it with a spatula tool but the putty literally started setting up 5 seconds out of the tube. I don't understand how anyone can work with this stuff, unless im missing a step between squeeze and spread.
After a ton of sanding due to the sloppy putty. I know theres a lot of scratch marks but its wet sanded so its really smooth and im gonna use Alclad Gray with microfiller so it should fill anything in I missed.
after fighting with learning to airbrush and alclad II primer, I switched to what i know and primed some stuff with a spray can. I have to revisit airbrushing alclad. had the toughest time with it. wouldnt go on smooth at all. i think im used to spray paint so i was putting too much on. It worked great on small parts, but bigger stuff it just looked terrible. had to sand the body 3 times.
cant really do much else till i get more parts. Im just showing them because they all were modded for the kit. Nothing too exciting... nothing is wet sanded yet. waiting for primer to dry.
Motor
Floor
Cockpit
Body
Body: Shaved the panel lines, i like it smoother looking.
Bent some PE parts. Only broke 1. Nothing a lil ca can't fix.
small update, Added some PE Parts:
Brake Components
Wheel Components
Wind Deflector
so far only one part has got me stumped. its really really difficult but im working through it. have to glue 8 small solder pieces vertically to a PE disc to which i add a plate so i can sand them down so they basically end up looking like bolt bodies. such a pain to glue solder as it wont sit straight so the disc doesnt want to go on.
So what i had to do was glue solder to the edge of the PE disc like so. You can imagine how hard it was to get them straight and every time i pushed down, if it wasnt straight down the piece would fly out of my hands and bend the pieces. Well the solder would keep bending cause my hot a$$ hands would soften it i guess, and it really didn't want to stay glued. then once you glue them like the pic below, you have to cut them short, then put a PE disc on top and then cut them flush and sand them even. basically the disc was a spacer so when you sand they're all even size tall. But with the solder, cause everything wasnt perfectly straight it was impossible to put the disc on without either bending it or popping out the solder. so i got styrene rods in the same size cause its fairly rigid and doesnt want to melt in my hands. and its easier to manipulate to make the disc fit. worked much better. it was very hard and tedious.
this is after the cutting and sanding. im going to paint everything with alclad pale gold to make it look one color. then theres these PE parts that simulate nut locks that goes across a pair of the styrene nubs.
Semi Completed Rotor Assembly
Small update on brakes
Added the wire locks soooo tiny. Still not painted.
Nickel for reference
I know there's quite a bit of extra glue but this stuff is so tiny and fragile it's the only way I can do it with my limited ca experience. I even used tiny applicators for the glue. I'm sure it'll look fine when I base coat and then paint.
finally started painting some parts. did some chrome. this alclad stuff is amazing. there's still more color to go on these chromed parts but wanted to share anyhow..
Got excited and painted some of the fittings the proper color
painted some more fittings. i know theres a couple missed spots, but ive since gone over them again.
small update:
pre assembled the rotors. they look pretty good considering all the CA i have on the tiny part. coulda done better but what can you do?
One of the ECU's. Directions said to do it semi gloss black but i liked flat better so i dullcoated it.
Suspension parts. One of the knobs must have fell off or broke off so i had to repair it. added some styrene rod. im getting pretty good at adding these lil nibs back on cause they seem to all fall off.
and i thought this was going to be a small nightmare, the top left is how i got it, must have been a bubble. so i was going to use tamiya putty and sculpt it but i cringe every time i think about using it, then i remembered TRM told me to make some styrene putty, which i have a whole jar of! so i added a dab and i apparently had just the right amount and apparently the one black piece of styrene that fell in tinted the white putty the almost exact shade of the resin gray. you almost cant tell! im so proud of this repair. Thanks TRM!!
rotors are done, brakes are 1/2 painted (have to paint pads once dry). They all look much better in person, my lighting isnt so awesome so they have a lot of glare. i have a lot of stuff drying, so more pics soon...
so i had a bit of a modeling tragedy/lesson last night. ive been pretty open how this is learning experience for me. so if what im about to say is common knowlege i apologize. I was just not aware yet, but thats how we learn..
so i put together a few parts that are painted the same color and was just going to paint them together. it was the fuel rail, wiring harness and another piece so it can sit on the engine. its extremely delicate. (pics to follow). and i decided to go by the book as opposed to the other document they had on their site. it followed a diff manner but i realized it didnt cover everything. so as you all know, CA is used on resin. and i glued these two parts and realized i needed to add photo etch to the pegs that attach the 2 pieces. impossible to do while its glued and impossible to make it work glued. so i was like, ill just get them apart and then add my own styrene pegs and redrill out the holes since the oem pegs were sure to break off. so i submerged the piece in CA debonder, not realizing its mostly acetone...
took the piece out after 10 mins and it was essentially rubbery now, and when i handled it, it basically just cracked in my hands into 4 pieces. it pretty much disintegrated, and what was left was so soft i couldnt do anything with it.. that was my lesson learned. didnt realize it would eat the resin. and its not a part they sell as part of an upgrade kit and the box stock unit is completely different and has absolutely no detail. so now im panicking cause i dont know what to do and i dont want to spend 135.00 on another kit for 2 parts. so i calmed down and said i MUST fix this. I also emailed Top Studio to see what i could do. Basically i told them what happened, sent pics and asked if i could buy those parts.i mean this is a VERY important part. lots of detail. so i washed the piece in hot then cold water to hopefully counteract the acetone. well it got a lil stiffer. still soft by any means, but it was harder for sure. so i took the 4 pieces and glued them CAREFULLY, and glued the 2nd piece together as well. so theres dried glue ALL over this thing. I basically scraped all i could off the top and left most of the bottom glue cause its hidden and i didnt want to do any more structural damage.
then i drilled 12 tiny tiny holes. then i used some .20 polystyrene rod to make new nubs for the top piece. i had to be SOOO careful drilling cause it was like drilling a hole on a pen tip. and the piece was rubbery, so i didn't want to crack it more. i basically took the 24" polystyrene rod, and dipped the end in medium CA (needed time to re position) then once it dried i cut the rod short and went to the next one, this way i didn't have to use tweezers on the thin rod.so then i test fit it and it all went back together!!! was so proud of myself. this thing was a MESSSSSS. so i got an email from Top Studio and they are sending me the 2 parts free of charge which is ahhhhmazing. That's excellent customer service. it wasn't their problem i wasn't knowledgeable and om in the USA so i know its not costing them a tiny amount. i figured it wouldn't be worth it to them and they'd tell me there wasnt anything they could do but i was thankfully wrong.
but yeah, close call. still got the part for backup.
UPDATE: Ive since received the new replacement part!
Part before it broke into 2 more parts (4 pieces total)
Top part underside after gluing pieces and stryrene knobs.
Support after glue
Small Update:
Air Intake:
Suspension:
Added Foil (Heat Shield) to interior:
Have to paint axles, so i made my own holder cause the aligator clips were not working at ALL.
Suspension Components:
Turbo, Wastegate and Exhaust (Prior to heat treating, used Alclad Stainless Steel) Looks better in person, close up shows EVERYTHING:
Keep in mind this whole first part is off an existing post so it may reference me waiting for stuff but i have everything now, its just too much to edit.. This doesnt include any non picture posts either but the pics will tell the story of my journey (Good and Bad)
So I decided to go in way over my head and attempt a top studio build (actually two, bought the YZR-M1 Kit, that's next).
For those that don't know, Top Studio makes a Super Detail Up kit for the base model. Basically it makes it very realistic and its quite the build. The base model only has 3 Sprues worth of parts so the detail kit replaces most of it, and adds a ton more. I couldn't find any builds on youtube or the web so I thought id document it here. I'm taking pictures along the way to point out most of the major steps. Expect lots of pics. Ill do my best to explain how I did the more difficult parts.
I'm using Tamiya #89719 and Top Studio #MD29011
Here is my last order of stuff for these next two builds. I think I have enough colors?
Here is the model in box stock form:
This first set of pics is lacking on before pictures because I wasn't sure if I was going to document it or not so I apologize. I will be more thorough going forward.
First step is to modify the stock parts. These parts are all parts that needed something cut off of them. Either replaced by resin parts or photo etch. Some wont be used till later, but I want to mod everything before I get into the top studio parts.
Clear Light cut down. It had a post on the back that has to be cut off and sanded flat
In order to sand it flat I put it in my pin vise. Next I need to drill a hole in the back when I get my bits tomorrow.
Intercoolers. Here I cut the end tanks off one side. Top studio includes new ones. I used an exacto and then sanded them flat.
Exterior panels need to be cut on panel line. The part with detail is replaced by PE parts
Suspension piece needs to be cut into 3 pieces, It was a full triangle to begin with.
Where to cut the top
Where to cut bottom, I cut right in the center of the circle so there is enough material to drill later
This is where the ecu was molded into the cockpit. it had to be cut out and sanded flat
Engine
There was a tall hood on each side on the front. it had to be removed (sorry no pics of before)
On the valve cover there was a bracket that protruded out. Had to be removed. Basically I turned it over and cut it with exacto from the back and then sanded it level.
while waiting for my parts to come in, did some more of the stock part prep.
Drilling out the wheels to 3mm (1mm deep)
Drilling out this box for an AN fitting
And the fun one, so I had to use a .4mm drill bit, to drill these 4 wire holes on center. ill let the pictures do the talking....
This is the size of the drill bit, that's a normal size bic pen...
These are the 3 holes on each side I had to get on center for spark plug wires.. imagine how fun that was, the bit bends with the slightest pressure.
Close-up of 1st hole ( "easier" cause I can come from side)
Rest of holes (had to come down at an angle over previous coil)
Small Update:
Removing the exhaust air dams to use PE parts
Stock:
Removed:
Got my styrene sheet in and decided to do some of the body work. Keep in mind ive never used putty nor done anything other than paint or weather a car. this was all new.
So had to take the stock body and add some styrene to make smaller holes, like the real car. Cutting the pieces was easy enough, but I couldn't really get them to line up so I figured out to add bracing cause I calipered the cockpit before I ordered styrene and got the exact size. so now the bracing makes it flush! woo
Before pics of holes to be filled...
This one I had to add a whole piece
Here Is the bracing to make the pieces flush
Here is my terrible putty job. like I said first time, and it said to spread it with a spatula tool but the putty literally started setting up 5 seconds out of the tube. I don't understand how anyone can work with this stuff, unless im missing a step between squeeze and spread.
After a ton of sanding due to the sloppy putty. I know theres a lot of scratch marks but its wet sanded so its really smooth and im gonna use Alclad Gray with microfiller so it should fill anything in I missed.
after fighting with learning to airbrush and alclad II primer, I switched to what i know and primed some stuff with a spray can. I have to revisit airbrushing alclad. had the toughest time with it. wouldnt go on smooth at all. i think im used to spray paint so i was putting too much on. It worked great on small parts, but bigger stuff it just looked terrible. had to sand the body 3 times.
cant really do much else till i get more parts. Im just showing them because they all were modded for the kit. Nothing too exciting... nothing is wet sanded yet. waiting for primer to dry.
Motor
Floor
Cockpit
Body
Body: Shaved the panel lines, i like it smoother looking.
Bent some PE parts. Only broke 1. Nothing a lil ca can't fix.
small update, Added some PE Parts:
Brake Components
Wheel Components
Wind Deflector
so far only one part has got me stumped. its really really difficult but im working through it. have to glue 8 small solder pieces vertically to a PE disc to which i add a plate so i can sand them down so they basically end up looking like bolt bodies. such a pain to glue solder as it wont sit straight so the disc doesnt want to go on.
So what i had to do was glue solder to the edge of the PE disc like so. You can imagine how hard it was to get them straight and every time i pushed down, if it wasnt straight down the piece would fly out of my hands and bend the pieces. Well the solder would keep bending cause my hot a$$ hands would soften it i guess, and it really didn't want to stay glued. then once you glue them like the pic below, you have to cut them short, then put a PE disc on top and then cut them flush and sand them even. basically the disc was a spacer so when you sand they're all even size tall. But with the solder, cause everything wasnt perfectly straight it was impossible to put the disc on without either bending it or popping out the solder. so i got styrene rods in the same size cause its fairly rigid and doesnt want to melt in my hands. and its easier to manipulate to make the disc fit. worked much better. it was very hard and tedious.
this is after the cutting and sanding. im going to paint everything with alclad pale gold to make it look one color. then theres these PE parts that simulate nut locks that goes across a pair of the styrene nubs.
Semi Completed Rotor Assembly
Small update on brakes
Added the wire locks soooo tiny. Still not painted.
Nickel for reference
I know there's quite a bit of extra glue but this stuff is so tiny and fragile it's the only way I can do it with my limited ca experience. I even used tiny applicators for the glue. I'm sure it'll look fine when I base coat and then paint.
finally started painting some parts. did some chrome. this alclad stuff is amazing. there's still more color to go on these chromed parts but wanted to share anyhow..
Got excited and painted some of the fittings the proper color
painted some more fittings. i know theres a couple missed spots, but ive since gone over them again.
small update:
pre assembled the rotors. they look pretty good considering all the CA i have on the tiny part. coulda done better but what can you do?
One of the ECU's. Directions said to do it semi gloss black but i liked flat better so i dullcoated it.
Suspension parts. One of the knobs must have fell off or broke off so i had to repair it. added some styrene rod. im getting pretty good at adding these lil nibs back on cause they seem to all fall off.
and i thought this was going to be a small nightmare, the top left is how i got it, must have been a bubble. so i was going to use tamiya putty and sculpt it but i cringe every time i think about using it, then i remembered TRM told me to make some styrene putty, which i have a whole jar of! so i added a dab and i apparently had just the right amount and apparently the one black piece of styrene that fell in tinted the white putty the almost exact shade of the resin gray. you almost cant tell! im so proud of this repair. Thanks TRM!!
rotors are done, brakes are 1/2 painted (have to paint pads once dry). They all look much better in person, my lighting isnt so awesome so they have a lot of glare. i have a lot of stuff drying, so more pics soon...
so i had a bit of a modeling tragedy/lesson last night. ive been pretty open how this is learning experience for me. so if what im about to say is common knowlege i apologize. I was just not aware yet, but thats how we learn..
so i put together a few parts that are painted the same color and was just going to paint them together. it was the fuel rail, wiring harness and another piece so it can sit on the engine. its extremely delicate. (pics to follow). and i decided to go by the book as opposed to the other document they had on their site. it followed a diff manner but i realized it didnt cover everything. so as you all know, CA is used on resin. and i glued these two parts and realized i needed to add photo etch to the pegs that attach the 2 pieces. impossible to do while its glued and impossible to make it work glued. so i was like, ill just get them apart and then add my own styrene pegs and redrill out the holes since the oem pegs were sure to break off. so i submerged the piece in CA debonder, not realizing its mostly acetone...
took the piece out after 10 mins and it was essentially rubbery now, and when i handled it, it basically just cracked in my hands into 4 pieces. it pretty much disintegrated, and what was left was so soft i couldnt do anything with it.. that was my lesson learned. didnt realize it would eat the resin. and its not a part they sell as part of an upgrade kit and the box stock unit is completely different and has absolutely no detail. so now im panicking cause i dont know what to do and i dont want to spend 135.00 on another kit for 2 parts. so i calmed down and said i MUST fix this. I also emailed Top Studio to see what i could do. Basically i told them what happened, sent pics and asked if i could buy those parts.i mean this is a VERY important part. lots of detail. so i washed the piece in hot then cold water to hopefully counteract the acetone. well it got a lil stiffer. still soft by any means, but it was harder for sure. so i took the 4 pieces and glued them CAREFULLY, and glued the 2nd piece together as well. so theres dried glue ALL over this thing. I basically scraped all i could off the top and left most of the bottom glue cause its hidden and i didnt want to do any more structural damage.
then i drilled 12 tiny tiny holes. then i used some .20 polystyrene rod to make new nubs for the top piece. i had to be SOOO careful drilling cause it was like drilling a hole on a pen tip. and the piece was rubbery, so i didn't want to crack it more. i basically took the 24" polystyrene rod, and dipped the end in medium CA (needed time to re position) then once it dried i cut the rod short and went to the next one, this way i didn't have to use tweezers on the thin rod.so then i test fit it and it all went back together!!! was so proud of myself. this thing was a MESSSSSS. so i got an email from Top Studio and they are sending me the 2 parts free of charge which is ahhhhmazing. That's excellent customer service. it wasn't their problem i wasn't knowledgeable and om in the USA so i know its not costing them a tiny amount. i figured it wouldn't be worth it to them and they'd tell me there wasnt anything they could do but i was thankfully wrong.
but yeah, close call. still got the part for backup.
UPDATE: Ive since received the new replacement part!
Part before it broke into 2 more parts (4 pieces total)
Top part underside after gluing pieces and stryrene knobs.
Support after glue
Small Update:
Air Intake:
Suspension:
Added Foil (Heat Shield) to interior:
Have to paint axles, so i made my own holder cause the aligator clips were not working at ALL.
Suspension Components:
Turbo, Wastegate and Exhaust (Prior to heat treating, used Alclad Stainless Steel) Looks better in person, close up shows EVERYTHING:
