1940 Ford Coupe

[82s1]

I've been wanting to build this for a while. The 1940 Ford happens to have been manufactured the year I was born. Also the 40 Coupe was the first car I ever owned. It has just been begging to be built.

This is the kit I will be using.

So far this is what I have done.

The chassis and engine.

The interior.

The body.  I intend to paint the body classic white using fingernail polish.  That with the painted steelies should look pretty good.

I hope to get the color coat on tomorrow.  I'll post more as appropriate.  As always, comments, suggestions, constructive criticism and friendly ridicule welcome.

[TRM]

Looking pretty good the John!! Looking forward to that paint job you have on deck! Should be a real look when done!!

[John Everett]

I've read about using nail polish on car kits, but never really believed it. Could you go into some extra detail when you paint it? I'm curious about mix ratios, PSI and what kind of curious questions you receive at the nail salon when shopping for paint.

Nice job with the engine and under frame as well!

[82s1]

John:  There is no great mystery about using nail polish to paint plastic models. Nail polish actually is nothing more than a high quality lacquer.  It is of course quite thick and calls for some heavy thinning to be suitable for use in an airbrush. 

I get almost all of my nail polish at my local Dollar Store.  The local store carries two different brands.  The polishes come in a number of different colors and, of course, cost a dollar a bottle.

The polish on the far right has glitter in it.  I have found it best for me to avoid this polish --- clogs the airbrush.

I thin the polish with lacquer thinner I get at one of the big box stores.

I have found with these two brands a ratio of 1:1 thins the polish to the thickness of about 2% milk --- sound familiar?

I prime the model with two coats of Tamiya Surface Primer, either gray or white, to provide for good adhesion of the polish.  I let the primer cure for at least 24 hours.  The primer protects the plastic and I have never had any adverse reaction to the polish.  To be honest, I have never tested the polish by not using primer so I'm not sure if there would be any reaction anyway.

I use a Paasche Single Action airbrush with a #5 tip and needle to shoot the body of a model.  I set the PSI to about #30 to start and will adjust either up or down as needed.  In most cases the setting of #30 is right on.  This brush is kind of my "workhorse" for larger amounts of paint.  For more detailed work I generally use my Iwata Eclipse double action. 

Keep in mind though that the polish will cure to a matt or satin finish.  If you want "shiney" you will have to apply a gloss clear.  That's about it.  Like I said at the beginning, there is no great mystery here.  Give it a try.  I'm pretty sure you will like the results.

To answer your last question --- I have never had any embarrassing incident while buying the polish.  One time the clerk asked me just what I intended to do with two dozen bottles, but when I told here how I would use them she was really interested in how I did it. 

I hope this helps.  If you have any other questions let me know.

[406 Silverado]

Never heard of that but it makes sense. I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks. I love the 40 Ford, great looking car. Thanks for the how to on using the nail polish btw.

[82s1]

Got the color coat on this morning. This is the nail polish as previously discussed.






I should be able to make a bit more progress later today.

[TRM]

Nice coat you got on there John!! The nail polish levels out pretty good!!

[Leon]

WOW!!!! John the finish coat looks fantastic.

[legend]

Never heard of this painting method before. Good one to know! Car looks great!

Bill

[John Everett]

Wow! White is a tough color.

I'm impressed.

What do you use for a gloss coat. I've used Testors Laquer spray cans, which seem pretty good. Have you found something better?

[82s1]

John: I prefer the Tamiya clears. In this case I'm using TS-65 Pearl Clear straight from the rattle can. I should have a photo of the cleared model up tomorrow.

[deafpanzer]

Man, it really looks fantastic!

[johnt]

Hi John, looks mighty sweet! Thanks for the tips regarding using nail polish.

Cheers
JT

[mrt51]

I have seen cars done this way before and they looked fantastic. Yours is right in there with them. Thanks for thinning ratio.

Terry

[82s1]

Here is the final version. There are a couple of rough spots, but I think overall it came out pretty well.

I appreciate all the kind comments and encouragement I have received from you guys.  Makes one want to keep going.  Thanks again.

[John Everett]

Overall I would say it turned out very well!

I've just started doing a couple of cars after years of 1/35 olive drab. I like the bright colors. But more often than not the kits themselves aren't very well designed. The parts fit is poor, if non-existent. Do car modelers have a bags of tricks for things like windshields which aren't even close to matching their frames or the suspension which does not allow the tires to properly fit in the wheel wells?

[deafpanzer]

BEAUTIFUL!!! Especially that it is white painted... you nailed ti!

[82s1]

Jan 7, 2015 0:41:48 GMT -5 John Everett said:

Overall I would say it turned out very well!

I've just started doing a couple of cars after years of 1/35 olive drab. I like the bright colors. But more often than not the kits themselves aren't very well designed. The parts fit is poor, if non-existent. Do car modelers have a bags of tricks for things like windshields which aren't even close to matching their frames or the suspension which does not allow the tires to properly fit in the wheel wells?

John: I'm just the opposite. I have a number of years building cars and automotive related dioramas.  The Panzer IV that I completed last month was the first military kit I have done in many, many years. I'm as uncomfortable with armor as you are with automobiles.

Anyway, to answer your questions. I have no "bag of tricks". The only thing that will help is to build, build, build. You're right that many automotive kits are not well designed. In that case you just have to jump into it and work around the problems. In other words, there is a lot of scratch building when working on automobiles. Over time as you work with automotive kits you will become more comfortable. I would suggest that you approach automotive kits as something you have never done. Think of yourself as a novice. Spend time on the automotive modeling forums. Most of them are a wealth of information. There are a couple of the forums that I won't name that are populated by prima donnas. When I spot one of them I just move on. I've noticed that the same is true of the armor and military forums. Most are very helpful, but there are always those few that seem to enjoy ridicule.

Kit design can be really hit and miss. Over the years though, I have found that certain manufacturers have more problems than others. I personally have a problem with Lindberg kits. Their fit and finish is just not up to standards that you find in Tamiya and Revell kits. Consequently I avoid the Lindberg kits except when they just can't be avoided.

I hope this has been helpful. It's hard to answer general questions like this. If, as you build, you have specific problems contact me and I'll see if I can give you any advice. Keep in mind though, I'm no expert; I'm just a cranky old so and so that is stumbling along myself.

[Leon]

Congrats on a great finish John! She's a real beauty.

[ogrejohn]

Sharp looking 40! Well done indeed!