delta
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Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
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Post by delta on Feb 21, 2015 23:07:03 GMT -5
Thank you for the advice TRM!
I've been able to get the salt to work fairly well, or at last stick well now. When I remove it though, I find the paint has made its way down and dimmed the base coat, or removal chips all the way down to the plastic no matter how much hairspray or lacer is between coats. The base coat on the SR-71 is the silver, with rust and yellow streaks painted on. I was going to laquer all that and then salt some black onto it to show a minimum bit of remaining paint. In retrospect I probably should have given it rust, then applied the titanium as a second full coat and chipped down, but I wanted to get some panel shading in with it and painted them both together. It's not actually too late to do so, I suppose.
I'm actually testing sculpey clay right now in lieu of salt, It seems likelier to prevent seepage than the salt and I know it comes off easily and I can sculpt it to mimic rust lines fairly well.
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Post by TRM on Feb 21, 2015 23:14:44 GMT -5
There are also some great masking fluids on the market as well! Poster tack (Blue Tack or even the cheap stuff from Walmart or other store) work well too. Although these items are used for camo applications and such!
Lacquer? Are you putting a clear coat after your base coat and before the Hairspray? This is crucial to protect the coat underneath. Also, if you are getting paint bleeding under the salt, lighten up the application of top coating of paint. Too much will undermine the salt.
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delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365
Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
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Post by delta on Feb 22, 2015 2:55:32 GMT -5
I'm putting on a coat before the hairspray, I've also tried two full and dried coats to prevent the layer underneath from coming off, but it still seems to fall away. I'm using Model Masters flat or gloss lacquers. I've also tried a few different primers under all that.
I'll see what I can do about applying a lighter coat on the salt. I'm still on brushes until I can retrieve my air compressor though, so really smooth really thin coats will have to wait a bit.
Thank you again for your help and advice on this!
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Post by TRM on Feb 22, 2015 10:28:15 GMT -5
You're welcome, only trying to help a bit where I can! As for the clear coat...this might be a bit of the problem you are having. If the base, clear coat and subsequent top coat you will be chipping are all enamel or lacquer, this may pose a problem in the hairspray technique from working.
The clear coat really should be something different than what you are using for paint otherwise the medium you are using to dissolve the paint for the chipping will eat through the clear and eventually base as well. If you can get some Future, this is acrylic and once cured should not be effected by an oil based medium like paint thinner. Also, Future will stand up to water used to remove acrylic based paints.
You don't need to change the paint you are using but if you can sneak in a different clear coat, I bet you will have a better go at it. An acrylic rattle can would work as well in this case if you have trouble finding any Future.
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delta
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Posts: 365
Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
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Post by delta on Feb 22, 2015 11:45:48 GMT -5
Aha! That sounds like the problem, I assumed it could be any sort of protective coat. I'll look for Future or an acrylic seal. Thanks again!
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madairbrush
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Cheers!! Matt
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May 30, 2012 14:22:05 GMT -5
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Post by madairbrush on Mar 3, 2015 16:05:57 GMT -5
Great idea, reminds me of "area 51".
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delta
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Post by delta on Mar 3, 2015 23:22:05 GMT -5
Thank you! Do you mean the location, or is there a film or book by that name that mentions a rusted out blackbird?
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Post by kaytermarram on Mar 26, 2015 15:37:33 GMT -5
I have begun rusting and decomposing effects on a Robot figure and that comes along the way I have planned. BUT: I would love to do such a rustbucket like you. The only thing why I can do it at the moment is the amount of work I have to involve. Destroying a kit means to redo details of a wreck, inner structure, torn appart details GALORE and even more inner details. ARGH! You have my full attention here; I love those "hunks of junk" so to say. It is one Masterclass in modeling!
Frank
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delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365
Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
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Post by delta on Mar 26, 2015 16:04:49 GMT -5
Thank you! This one has been on hold while I learn to chip, but with that one going well I should be able to get back to it soon. The really hard bit of scratch this one requires is the visible engines. Nothing came with the kit, and the real things are, well- Luckily there's no shortage of reference for the guts of the plane. But I need to stock up on wire...
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Post by kaytermarram on Apr 5, 2015 16:07:48 GMT -5
ARRRRRGGHHHHHHHH!!!! DO IT!! This will be great, really!
Frank
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delta
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Posts: 365
Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
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Post by delta on Apr 5, 2015 17:45:06 GMT -5
I'm honored you're watching this one with such interest! I've just finished the book and submitted it to the publisher so all my writing time is now free. Unless it gets stolen by school stuff I should be able to get back to my models. Though I have like 8 models in progress now including the Blackbird. I just kept finding great kits and can't restrain myself from starting them all. Needless to say, I'll post everything here as it comes along.
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Post by wbill76 on Apr 6, 2015 13:30:02 GMT -5
Always nice to have a deadline out of the way, I bet you're looking forward to getting back to the bench with more time!
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delta
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Post by delta on Apr 6, 2015 17:23:17 GMT -5
Absolutely!
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Post by kaytermarram on Apr 7, 2015 12:13:39 GMT -5
Wait a second, Ari: What book are you talking about?? With reading, I am like with my figure sculpts, have mostly 5 or 6 books parallel on my table to read. I LOVE books! And I mean BOOKS, no kindles or something else. I want to smell the paper, to hold the book in my hands, read EVERY word in it (the impressum, too!) and love to order every new stuff which interests me, mostly film and game design, art of... books and horror books (have discovered german horror authors, there is great stuff around), anthologies and all that. If I find some model related books, they come in my collection, too. But now back to topic!
Frank
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delta
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Posts: 365
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Post by delta on Apr 7, 2015 16:06:36 GMT -5
Frank- I also have a pile of current reading, usually about 5 of them. The book I mentioned is the third and final book of my sci-fi trilogy. It's done now so I finally have free time again. The first book in the series is called Valhalla by Ari Bach, it has one sequel out called Ragnarök. The Kyryll (the walking aircraft carrier) in the sci-fi forum is from the first book, part of my renewed model interest is actually so I can build a bunch of the ships and flying cars (called Pogos in the books) and hovercraft and tanks and things from the stories. They're available as genuine paper and ink books too. If you like German Horror, be sure to check out The Green Face and The Golem by Gustav Meyrink
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Post by kaytermarram on Apr 7, 2015 16:37:51 GMT -5
I have searched for your books in amazon and found them. Got very good ratings indeed, be sure to get them translated into german! I speak and read english, in magazines and modeling books but when it comes to novels and such stuff I prefer german. Gustav Meyrink is known to me, THE GOLEM is also a very good movie from the silent film era. At the moment, you can read torture porn galore, but this is not my taste. I love real horror, creature horror the most and ghost stories. There are so much themes they do in this literature, it is overwhelming! Started with Stephen King and Clive Barker´s BOOKS OF BLOOD I now read the way if tomorrow is the last day on earth. And loving it!
Frank
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delta
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Jan 21, 2015 0:58:01 GMT -5
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Post by delta on Apr 7, 2015 21:51:49 GMT -5
I do hope they get translated someday soon, I can send you a message when it does if you wish. I'm also reading Books of Blood, very slowly, like one story every couple months slowly. Clive Barker is to be savored.
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