I think that the old fashioned tube glue might be the answer to the 250/251 track pad problem. With the liquid cement too much glue and the links glue together and too little and they come apart when you mess with them.
Would old fashioned tube glue work? It is much more controllable in where it goes and how much. I don't have any to try it out.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this to you if so sorry for the repeat, I didn't see it anywhere in the thread. Here is a Link to the Perth Site doing a comparison review of 251 tracks and it tells you how to fix the AFV issues.
I came up with this trick for resin tracks and PE so maybe this will kelp you with your Plastic tracks. Test it first on some scratch plastic to make sure the Acetone doesn't attack your plastic, I have never had an issue with it on plastic but just be safe and check for yourself. When assembling Resin Individual Links is I will mix up a concoction of CA and Acetone. (Acetone dissolves CA if you didn't know that) to create a brushable Liquid version of CA. The acetone slows down the setting time of the CA (Usually a minute or so until it evaporates) allowing you time to position your tracks the way you want. The nice thing about this way is the glue evenly spreads itself out thus avoiding that initial blob of CA. This also works for the initial tacking of PE but usually not strong enough for the final hold.
I just use a Paint brush from wallyworld's 50 brush pack. I can usually clean the brush a few times before throwing it away. The Mixture ratio is not really that important roughly 1part CA 10 parts Acetone but you can adjust this to make it stronger or weaker. I usually just take a full tube of super glue and squirt it in a small glass bottle, then fill the rest with acetone and shake it up real good.. I use the cheap stuff from the Dollar Store, 3 tubes for a buck so I usually just buy 10 or so packs at a time so I have it around all the time and I use a miniature Jelly bottles you get at Christmas or just an old airbrush bottle, if it seals good it will last a few weeks but if evaporates you can restore it by adding more acetone as CA doesn't evaporate. (After awhile I will just let dry out and I can usually just pull a dried skin of CA out an reuse the bottle. (A poly film canister works good also but those are getting harder to find) Hope this helps you out.. Here is a set of tracks I used this technique on.I made a mold of the Tristar 38t tracks and cast up a few 100 to replace the Tamiya Rubberband tracks. Once everything is dried I use a stiff Toothbrush to Clean off all the resin flash as the CA mixture makes it brittle and it just easily flakes off. And the start of the weathering of the lower hull.. This is another one of those shelf queens I may finish yet.
Last Edit: Mar 3, 2015 15:20:13 GMT -5 by billiejean
Dierk! Thank you buddy .Planned on gluing the pads on tonight but I had a REALLY bad day at work and working on the pads would probably end up a disaster.
Hey there Leon
Ok, you know perfectly the theory: to take it easy, one has only got a life, and just the same end for "the movie"
Wise decission to put the finger out of the trigger (modelling context), I find that I need to be ok to model. If I've been ***ked at job, I get the same precission than a chimp with an AK47 full auto mode.
Anyway, youll do a good job with the halftrack Later Jelly
Afternoon guys! I started the build on the 251.Steps 1&2 done,have to say i'm glad I found a review on this kit as there are a lot of heavy EPM's to be dealt with and some other small issues.I'll be going back and forth to the review to make sure I do things correctly.
Evening guys! Making good progress today,got the wheels,sprockets,front suspension and under side armor cleaned and glued up.So far the build is going good.Going to try and get the rear suspension parts on in a bit.Front wheels are just dry fit for now.Hope you like it so far.
Looks good Leon. keep it up and she'll be a beauty.
Dunno if the AFV club t has a similar alignment issue like the Dragon kits when mounting the front wheels/axles. With the Dragon kit the front would be off if you didn't take into account the thickness of the tracks. It was to get right a long as you laid some of track under the road wheels and them gt the front end in lace.
Afternoon guys!Started working on the interior,got the levers,pedals and some PE done.Don't know how well you can see the brake lever but I managed to cut off the plastic brake handle and bend up the TINY PE handle.Boy was that a test of patience waiting for it to ping out of the tweezers.I really need to get a PE bender if I'm going to use a lot of this.