PzKpfW I Ausf F Flammpanzer

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

Hello everyone. This construction lasts a very long time. No longer interested.
Eventually became doubtful some solutions. Just my skill has risen to another level in some areas can not watch without tears)))
But I will not alter anything. I hope to finish - the problem of welding seams.

Basis - PzKpfW I Ausf F (ALAN) Housing has become wider by 5 mm. Several parts of the Panther, Pz lll  dragon
The rest - is made of plastic.

[deafpanzer]

Another exciting build for us to follow... you have done a great deal to it and it looks great already!

[dupes]

Wow, man...this is excellent!!

[JimD]

That's really cool! You've really got a talent for the kit bashing/scratching department

[maschinenkrueger]

Fun project. Excellent scratch build.

[Leon]

Great looking scratch work Serzh!

[wbill76]

So much fun to look at all those elements and guess where they originally came from. Cool!

[Marcel du Long]

Woo, some cool scratching out here.
Very nice.
Marcel.

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

Hello. He continued to work. Welding ... Very tiring.







The drive wheel is terrible. Small plastic surgery.
A controversial decision in terms of engineering expertise, but looks better than the...

[Leon]

Nice work on the welds and rework on the drive wheels Serzh!

[TRM]

Wow Serzh!! I loved this little piece form you "humble beginnings" but you are taking welds to some great looking heights! We might have to convince you to put together a short SBS on how you get them so neat! Well done on the sprockets too!! Top notch work my friend!!

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

Leon, Todd - Thanks for the kind words!

Tomorrow I will try to photograph the process, but I'm afraid that does not show anything new.
1 - post putty.
2 - to create the right amount of weight over the entire length.
This is the most tedious. Add or remove unnecessary - it microns)))
3. Generate (put) pattern.

Such joints, where there is a corner, (the natural border) very simple to operate.

[wbill76]

Your time and effort have certainly paid off with those welds Serzh. Drive wheels look sharp as well.

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

Bill - thank you!
So. Method number 1 is pertinent in the case shown in the photo. When one of the boundaries have a small height. First - cleanliness. I wash the surface of the plastic solvent Tamiya (brush), and hand soap. Since the production of seams tedious, do no more than 4-5 cm. Kneading at least as much as I can qualitatively mix.








The surface for the demonstration. Thin plastic thickness 0.3



Putty is applied a chisel made from old rasp small. A very useful tool. Not only for the welds. A little weight on the chisel, and seemed to wipe it on the ledge. Patience and again patience.



Figure weld. This is the reverse side of old scalpel.



The angle should not be too large, otherwise the pattern when viewed from different angles will be different...
Similarly, controls the suture in a section not to be sagging or dents.

  

As can be seen, one trip is not enough for high-quality picture, repeat the procedure several times, changing direction, to achieve a good result.

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

Rough welds Soviet WWII.



www.dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=2705



yuripasholok.livejournal.com/3405675.html
yuripasholok.livejournal.com/3045795.html
yuripasholok.livejournal.com/3056797.html

The welding seam on the edge of the tower and the box. I prefer to put putty needle. Patience and patience. Needle conveniently remove minimum amount in one place and added to the other.





Creating a drawing is no different from the way that I described above. Only the size of a seam more. Repeat the procedure several times (one pass is not enough for a good result !!!)

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

For joints on relatively speaking "smooth" surface, we need another method.





Dosing putty, thinly rolled it into a solid object.







This is the most difficult welds, because the amount of filler must be perfect. Not high, but not low.









PS

If you think that drawing a sharp welds and sharp - I know two ways to give them a smooth shape.
The first - to cover the surface (after 3-4 hours drying putty for this) super liquid glue Tamiya. Minimal amount.
On the picture.



Or, just after the creation of the picture, position the model (model fragment) in the hot seat. 35-40 degrees Celsius.
Approximately 5-10 minutes. Depending on the volume. Acute drawing will be smoother.

I hope that this will help many modelers - success!
Many good models!

[dierk]

Thanks for the great weld SBS! Thumbs Up!
You may not like it anymore, but I would be very pleased if I could create something as good as your Flammpanzer!

[tigrazor]

Best welding SBS that Ive seen in a long time! Shared it with the Maschinenkrieger modelers @ Kows FB group... Hope you dont mind?!

www.facebook.com/groups/26684118243/?fref=nf

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

Dierk , tigrazor  - Thanks for the kind words!

tigrazor - I can not say anything, do not see. Page only of registered users

[TRM]

That is a fantastic reference for welds my friend!!! Easy to follow and most excellent photography! Thank you very much for taking the time to put it together! Please let me know if you do not mind if I put the Welding SBS in the Tips and Techniques section of the forum for future reference for the members!

[S e r z h--Rest In Peace]

Todd - no problem, I happy if this information help.
You may need to edit the text? If it is necessary to ...
I'm not sure, but suspect that the style of the (translate) is far from ideal)))

[TRM]

Thank you my friend! I will look through it before I post. Nothing too bad at all! The pictures alone are worth a thousand words!!

[Return_To_Kit_Form]

Very nice looking build so far. Congratulations on the great work and thankyou for the insight into thise stunning welds. That's a real artform right there.

Cheers,

Brett

[deafpanzer]

Thank you for taking your time to post tips and pictures... they are going to be very helpful!