delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365 
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Post by delta on Mar 30, 2015 23:53:21 GMT -5
 A wild Neubau-Fahrzeug appears! The build on this one has been a pleasure, with very few unwieldy bits and P.E. only where it really counts. A very fun suspension as well:  Here it is with its metal undercoat-  (The turrets are just laid on and not yet attached)  And here it is with the first pass on chipping and camo:   Washes and such coming soon... A very enjoyable kit! |
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delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365
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Post by delta on Mar 31, 2015 0:46:01 GMT -5
And now with black wash, drybrushing and re-metallic-izing the chips. They need a flat coat to tone them down but that will wait until after the tread.  |
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Wes
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Member since: November 2011
Posts: 686
Nov 16, 2011 9:34:50 GMT -5
Nov 16, 2011 9:34:50 GMT -5
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Post by Wes on Mar 31, 2015 1:42:19 GMT -5
Yes please. Looking very nice.
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delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365
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Post by delta on Mar 31, 2015 1:59:27 GMT -5
Thanks Wes!
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Post by wbill76 on Mar 31, 2015 16:24:03 GMT -5
Making short work of this one Delta! One thing you may wish to rethink is the metallic brightness of the chips. Bare steel will stay bright only if it's in constant contact/friction with other metal, otherwise it oxidizes very quickly and turns a very dark brown or rust color depending on the circumstances. Furthermore, the Germans used a red oxide primer that was a Tabasco-red color as the underlying coat for all their military vehicles. The primer was extremely tough by design in order to protect the armor steel integrity (rusty armor is weaker than regular armor, never a good thing) and prevent the elements from causing it to rust. This doesn't mean that high traffic areas wouldn't chip down to the bare steel, but those chips/areas would be relatively small (remember that in 1/35 an actual 1mm chip is 35mm on the real deal!) and more dark due to a) there likely being exposed primer and b) any bare metal oxidizing as a result. As an alternative, if you want to show off the detail areas, you can dry-brush lightened colors of the base coat followed by a darker pin wash to create shadows and depth. This combination of layering can do wonders for a finish, even a heavily weathered one. I know you're exploring different techniques and feeling your way around armor projects, so all of this is offered in that spirit and not meant as a critique per se.  The Neubau is one of my all-time favorite vehicles...it's truly a paper tiger in every sense of the word! Such a massive beast but thinly armored.  |
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delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365
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Post by delta on Mar 31, 2015 16:39:10 GMT -5
Bill- All great advice! I'm not sure I can apply it to this one but in the future I'll definitely go for the red primer. I've done chipping so far with my fingernails or a toothpick, so I may also try an X-Acto knife to better mimic the scale as you mentioned. I'm here partly to improve my skills so info like this is very welcome on any build I do. Thank you very much for the info and advice!!!  |
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Post by Tojo72 on Mar 31, 2015 18:04:41 GMT -5
Wow moving guickly.Looks great.
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delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365
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Post by delta on Apr 1, 2015 0:03:41 GMT -5
Thanks Tojo72!
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Post by deafpanzer on Apr 2, 2015 20:26:28 GMT -5
Catching up here... it is looking real good! Also weathering will tone it down too.
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delta
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Member since: January 2015
Posts: 365
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Post by delta on Apr 2, 2015 22:15:29 GMT -5
Thanks! Yes, I hope it will. Right now I'm just working on the tracks, it'll be a while on those.
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